Fabric Specification Glossary for Interior Designers

This glossary defines the fabric specification terms interior designers and architects meet most often, grouped by subject. Each entry links to the full guide where the term is covered in depth. For the complete specification library, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.

Durability and Abrasion

Martindale. The UK and European abrasion test, expressed as a rub count. The higher the count, the more abrasion the fabric withstands. Contract grade begins at 40,000 rubs. See our Martindale rub test guide.

Wyzenbeek. The US abrasion test, expressed in double rubs. Not comparable to Martindale and not interchangeable with it on a UK specification. See our Wyzenbeek vs Martindale guide.

Pilling. The formation of small fibre balls on a fabric surface through rubbing. Graded by ISO 12945-2. Distinct from abrasion failure. See our pilling resistance guide.

Fire and FR

BS 5852 Crib 5. The UK fire standard for contract upholstery, testing the fabric and filling as a composite against a wooden crib ignition source. See our Crib 5 guide.

BS 7176. The specification standard for non-domestic seating that references Crib 5 and adds hazard categories and a water-soak stage. Medium Hazard is standard for hotels.

BS 5867. The fire standard for contract curtains, separate from and not interchangeable with the upholstery standards. See our contract curtain guide.

Inherent vs topical FR. Inherent fire resistance is a property of the fibre and is permanent. Topical treatment is applied after weaving and can degrade with cleaning. See our how FR treatment works guide.

IMO FTP Code. The marine fire framework for commercial vessels. Part 8 covers upholstery, Part 7 curtains, Part 9 bedding. Crib 5 does not substitute for it. See our marine fabric specification guide.

Colour and Light

Light fastness. A fabric’s resistance to fading under light, graded 1 to 8 on the Blue Wool Scale (ISO 105-B02). Grade 6 or above is needed for sun-exposed positions. See our light fastness guide.

Crocking. Colour transfer from a fabric surface through rubbing, tested by ISO 105-X12. See our colour fastness and crocking guide.

Dye lot. A record of a specific dyeing batch. Colour varies between dye lots, so a large or phased order should be secured from one lot. See our lead times and colour matching guide.

Metamerism. When two colours match under one light source but differ under another. See our colour naming and specification guide.

Cleaning Codes

W. Water-based cleaning is suitable. S. Solvent-based dry cleaning only; water can damage the fabric. WS. Either water or solvent cleaning is suitable. X. Vacuum or brush only; no wet or solvent cleaning. See our fabric care symbols and cleaning codes guide.

Construction and Materials

Velvet. A construction, not a fibre: a pile fabric that can be woven from mohair, cotton, silk, linen, or synthetic. Fibre determines performance. See our velvet types guide.

Faux leather. A coated fabric imitating leather, in three types: PVC, PU, and silicone. See our faux leather types guide.

Pattern repeat. The distance before a pattern returns to the same position, horizontal and vertical. Drives fabric wastage in cutting. See our pattern matching guide.

Cold crack. The temperature at which a coated fabric stiffens and cracks. Relevant to exterior and marine use. See our cold crack testing guide.

Quick answers

What does the Martindale rub count mean?
The Martindale rub count is the number of abrasion cycles a fabric withstands in the UK and European abrasion test before showing wear. The higher the number, the more durable the fabric. Contract-grade upholstery begins at 40,000 rubs, and heavy contract use calls for 100,000 or above. It is not comparable to the US Wyzenbeek double-rub figure.

What do the fabric cleaning codes W, S, WS, and X mean?
W means water-based cleaning is suitable. S means solvent-based dry cleaning only, and water can damage the fabric. WS means either water or solvent cleaning is suitable. X means vacuum or brush only, with no wet or solvent cleaning. The code is set for each fabric and should be matched to the cleaning regime of the environment before specifying.

Is velvet a type of fibre?
No. Velvet is a construction, a pile fabric, not a fibre. It can be woven from mohair, cotton, silk, linen, cashmere, or synthetic fibres, and the fibre determines the durability, fire rating, cleaning, and cost. Choosing velvet on appearance alone, without regard to fibre, is a common specification error.

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