Velvet Types Compared: A Complete Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers and Architects

Most durable natural velvet: Mohair — 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs
Contract fire standard: BS 5852 Crib 5 — inherent in correctly certified mohair; topical treatment required for cotton, linen, and silk
Cleaning code: S (solvent only) for most natural velvets; W or WS for synthetic
Decorative use only: Silk velvet and cashmere velvet — not suitable for upholstery in regular use

Most durable natural velvet: Mohair — 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs
Contract fire standard: BS 5852 Crib 5 — inherent in correctly certified mohair; topical treatment required for cotton, linen, and silk
Cleaning code: S (solvent only) for most natural velvets; W or WS for synthetic
Decorative use only: Silk velvet and cashmere velvet — not suitable for upholstery in regular use

Velvet is a construction method, not a fibre. A velvet fabric is produced by weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously with threads connecting them, then cutting those threads to create an upstanding pile. That pile can be made from almost any fibre, and the fibre is the primary determinant of specification performance — durability, fire rating, cleaning requirements, light fastness, and cost — alongside construction, pile density, and backing. Choosing between velvet types on aesthetic grounds alone is the most common specification error in interior design.

This guide compares the principal velvet types available to specifiers in the UK market across every dimension relevant to a professional specification. For background on the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale, and fabric care symbols and cleaning codes.

How Velvet Is Made

Understanding the construction helps explain why fibre choice matters so much in velvet. In warp pile velvet, the pile yarns run along the length of the fabric and are woven over wires or rods. When the rods are withdrawn and the loops cut, a cut pile is formed. In double-cloth velvet, two fabrics are woven face to face simultaneously, joined by pile threads that are then cut to separate them and create pile on both faces. The resulting fabric has a distinct face and back, with the pile standing perpendicular to the base cloth.

The density and height of the pile, the twist of the pile yarn, and the weight and construction of the base cloth all affect performance. But the most fundamental variable is the fibre from which the pile is made.

Mohair Velvet

Fibre origin: Hair of the Angora goat, primarily from South Africa and Turkey. South Africa produces more than half of the world’s mohair supply and is the global benchmark for quality. A long-staple, smooth, lustrous fibre with exceptional tensile strength. For background on South African mohair production and the Responsible Mohair Standard, see Mohair South Africa.

Martindale rub count: 80,000 to 100,000 and above, depending on construction and pile density. Mohair velvet achieves the highest rub counts of any natural-fibre velvet and is the most reliably suitable natural-fibre velvet for heavy contract use. Kothea’s mohair velvet ranges are independently tested and achieve between 80,000 and 100,000 Martindale rubs across the active collections.

Fire rating: Mohair fibre, like wool, has natural flame-resistant properties arising from its high protein content. A correctly woven and constructed mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not universal across all mohair velvets and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric. This is the single most commercially significant advantage of a correctly certified mohair velvet over other natural-fibre velvets.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-cleaning solvent only. Water applied to mohair velvet can cause watermarks and pile matting. For minor fresh stains, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response. For full cleaning guidance see our post on cleaning and maintaining mohair velvet.

Light fastness: ISO 105-B02 grade 4 to 5 in light colourways and grade 5 to 6 in dark colourways. Suitable for most residential environments. For south-facing rooms, specify dark colourways or confirm the specific colourway grade with the supplier.

Pile appearance: High lustre with a characteristic directional sheen. The pile reflects light differently depending on viewing angle and pile direction, producing the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery velvet. The sheen is a natural property of the mohair fibre and cannot be replicated by cotton or synthetic alternatives.

Suitable applications: Heavy contract upholstery including hotel seating, restaurant banquettes, theatre and hospitality seating, residential sofas and chairs, headboards, cushions, and curtains. The combination of inherent Crib 5 and high Martindale makes it the standard against which all other upholstery velvets are measured in the UK contract market.

Not recommended for: High-light environments without confirming the colourway grade. Outdoor or semi-outdoor use. Applications requiring machine washing.

Cost position: Premium. The Angora goat produces a limited annual clip, and the fibre must be woven to a high pile density to achieve the rub counts associated with contract performance. The cost is justified by the specification advantage of inherent Crib 5 and the durability of the fabric in use.

Cotton Velvet

Fibre origin: Cotton plant. A short-staple natural cellulose fibre, widely grown and relatively inexpensive.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction, pile density, and backing. Cotton velvet varies enormously in quality. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet can achieve sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use. A thin, loosely woven cotton velvet intended for curtains or cushions may achieve 10,000 rubs or fewer. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure for the range you are specifying.

Fire rating: Topical treatment required. Cotton fibre does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently. A back-coating of flame-retardant chemicals must be applied before use in contract environments. The treatment process can affect the appearance and handle of the pile if not applied correctly, and specialist treatment houses experienced with velvet pile should be used. The Crib 5 certification achieved through topical treatment is subject to degradation through repeated cleaning. See our complete guide to Crib 5 for detail on inherent versus topical certification. For the risk of dye colour change after FR treatment, particularly on cotton with reactive dyes, see our dye types and FR treatment guide.

Cleaning code: S or WS depending on the specific range. Confirm the cleaning code on the fabric data sheet before specifying. Cotton velvet treated with a back-coating for Crib 5 may require solvent-only cleaning to avoid degrading the treatment.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 typically with standard reactive dyes. Broadly comparable to mohair at equivalent price points. Cotton velvet takes dye well and can achieve good colour depth.

Pile appearance: Matte to semi-matte. Cotton pile lacks the lustre of mohair and does not produce the same directional sheen. The aesthetic is warmer and less formal than mohair, which suits some residential briefs.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards. Suitable for general domestic and light contract use when correctly specified and treated. Not the first choice for heavy contract environments where the additional cost and complexity of topical treatment, re-treatment requirements, and lower Martindale thresholds make mohair velvet a more defensible specification.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use without FR treatment and independent testing. High-humidity environments. Applications where the FR certification must survive repeated cleaning without re-treatment.

Cost position: Mid-range. Cotton velvet is typically less expensive than mohair at equivalent pile weights but requires the additional cost of FR treatment for contract use, which narrows the price difference in contract projects.

Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Cocoon of the silkworm Bombyx mori. Silk is a continuous filament natural protein fibre of exceptional fineness and lustre.

Martindale rub count: Below 15,000 in most cases. Natural silk is the weakest of the natural-fibre velvets in abrasion terms. The fineness of the filament that produces silk’s extraordinary lustre is also the source of its vulnerability to mechanical wear. Silk velvet is decorative fabric, not upholstery fabric in the contract sense of the word.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is possible for domestic standards but silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a full Crib 5 pass for contract use. The coating process can damage the silk pile irreversibly. Silk velvet should not be specified for contract environments requiring BS 5852 Crib 5 certification unless the specific range has been independently tested and certified.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only. Silk is highly water-sensitive. Water will cause permanent watermarking and potentially alter the pile structure.

Light fastness: Grade 2 to 4 typically. Silk is the most photosensitive of the natural upholstery fibres. The dyes used on silk are chemically susceptible to UV degradation. Silk velvet should not be used in rooms with significant natural light exposure and should not be used on curtains where direct sunlight will fall on the fabric face. See our light fastness guide for full context.

Pile appearance: The most lustrous of all velvet pile types. Silk produces an extraordinary depth of sheen that no other fibre can replicate. The visual effect is incomparable when correctly lit in a low-light residential interior.

Suitable applications: Decorative cushions, occasional chairs in low-use residential rooms, curtains in low-light environments, bed throws. Silk velvet is the choice where aesthetic impact is the sole requirement and durability, fire rating, and light fastness are secondary.

Not recommended for: Any contract application. South-facing rooms. Any room with significant footfall or regular seating use. Headboards where regular contact with hair products will degrade the pile.

Cost position: High to very high. Silk is the most expensive natural fibre and the pile density required for velvet construction multiplies the material cost significantly. Quality varies considerably between suppliers.

Linen Velvet

Fibre origin: Flax plant. Linen is a bast fibre extracted from the stalk of the flax plant. It is a strong, textural natural cellulose fibre with a characteristic irregularity of surface.

Martindale rub count: 15,000 to 25,000 typically for linen velvet, though construction varies. Kothea’s Linen Velvet achieves 20,000 Martindale rubs with a SI 1324 cigarette test pass. Linen velvet occupies the domestic to light contract range.

Fire rating: Not inherently Crib 5. Linen is a natural fibre with moderate fire resistance but does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 without treatment or interliner. For contract use, FR treatment or a Schedule 3 interliner is required. Fabrics containing at least 75% natural fibres by weight may use a Schedule 3 interliner as an alternative to chemical treatment for some standards. Confirm the specific requirement with the relevant authority for the project environment.

Cleaning code: S or WS. Confirm on the data sheet. Linen is water-sensitive in pile form and wet cleaning can cause shrinkage and pile distortion.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard reactive dyes. Comparable to cotton velvet.

Pile appearance: Matte. Linen velvet has a distinctly textural, natural surface character very different from the smooth reflective pile of mohair or silk. The pile is less uniform than mohair or cotton and the fibre’s natural irregularity is visible in the surface of the cloth. This quality is valued in certain residential briefs where a craft or natural aesthetic is sought.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, curtains, cushions, decorative headboards. A strong choice for residential briefs requiring a natural, relaxed aesthetic with moderate durability.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. High-humidity environments. Applications where uniformity of pile surface is required.

Cost position: Mid-range. Linen velvet is typically comparable in price to cotton velvet at equivalent construction weights.

Cashmere and Cashmere-Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Undercoat of the Himalayan Cashmere goat. Cashmere is one of the finest natural fibres available, characterised by exceptional softness and warmth retention.

Martindale rub count: Low. Cashmere fibre is too fine and too short-staple to produce velvet with meaningful abrasion resistance for upholstery use. Cashmere velvet, and cashmere-silk velvet blends, are decorative fabrics. Kothea’s Cashmere Silk Velvet is specified for curtains only.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is technically possible but the handle and appearance of cashmere velvet are typically altered by the coating process. Cashmere velvet cannot be reliably specified for contract upholstery environments requiring Crib 5 certification.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only.

Light fastness: Moderate. Cashmere is a protein fibre and susceptible to UV degradation. Not recommended for high-light environments.

Pile appearance: Extraordinarily soft handle with a subtle, fine lustre. The pile texture is unlike any other velvet and is immediately identifiable by touch. Cashmere-silk blends add luminosity to the characteristic cashmere warmth.

Suitable applications: Curtains, decorative cushions, bed throws, accent pieces in low-use residential rooms. Cashmere velvet is the choice where tactile experience is the primary specification criterion.

Not recommended for: Upholstery of any kind in regular use. Contract environments. Any application where durability or fire certification is required.

Cost position: Very high. Cashmere velvet is among the most expensive interior fabrics available.

Synthetic Velvet: Trevira CS and Polyester

Fibre origin: Petrochemical derivatives. Trevira CS is a branded inherently fire-retardant polyester fibre manufactured in Germany. Standard polyester velvet uses conventional polyester yarn.

Martindale rub count: High. Synthetic velvet typically achieves 50,000 to 150,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction. Synthetic fibres are inherently more resistant to mechanical abrasion than natural fibres of equivalent weight.

Fire rating: Trevira CS is inherently flame-retardant. The flame retardancy is a permanent property of the polyester polymer and survives cleaning. Standard polyester velvet requires topical treatment and may or may not achieve a full Crib 5 pass depending on construction. Always confirm the specific test result and certification for any synthetic velvet before specifying for contract use.

Cleaning code: W or WS typically. Synthetic fibres are more tolerant of water-based cleaning than natural fibres. Many synthetic velvets can be spot-cleaned with water-based upholstery cleaners.

Light fastness: Grade 6 to 7 typically. Synthetic fibres are inherently more UV-resistant than natural fibres. Solution-dyed synthetic velvet, where the colour is incorporated into the fibre during extrusion, achieves the highest light fastness ratings available in velvet form.

Pile appearance: Varies considerably by construction. High-quality synthetic velvet can closely approximate the appearance of natural velvet. Lower-quality synthetic velvet has a flatter, more uniform pile with less depth. The distinguishing quality of natural-fibre velvets, particularly mohair, is visible to an experienced eye in showroom conditions.

Suitable applications: Contract upholstery where fire certification and durability are the primary requirements. Healthcare environments. Transport seating. Applications where machine cleanability or high-frequency cleaning is required.

Not recommended for: Ultra-luxury residential briefs where natural fibre handle and appearance are client requirements. Marine environments without confirming IMO compliance separately.

Cost position: Lower to mid-range. Synthetic velvet is less expensive than mohair at equivalent construction weights, though high-specification Trevira CS velvet from major European mills approaches mohair pricing.

Alpaca Velvet

Fibre origin: Fleece of the South American alpaca. Alpaca is a protein fibre closely related to wool, with a finer and softer handle than most sheep’s wool and a moderate natural lustre.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 40,000 typically, depending on construction. Alpaca velvet performs similarly to a well-constructed wool velvet. It is suitable for domestic and light contract use but does not approach the rub counts achievable with mohair.

Fire rating: Alpaca is a natural protein fibre and, like wool and mohair, has moderate inherent fire resistance. However, alpaca velvet cannot be assumed to pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently without specific independent testing. Do not specify alpaca velvet for contract use on the basis of fibre type alone. Request the test certificate from the supplier.

Cleaning code: S typically. Confirm with the supplier.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard acid dyes. Comparable to mohair.

Pile appearance: Soft and slightly matte with a gentle natural lustre. Less directional sheen than mohair. The pile has a warmth of character distinct from both mohair and cotton.

Suitable applications: Luxury residential upholstery, cushions, and occasional seating. Alpaca velvet is a niche choice for residential briefs where natural fibre and unusual character are valued over contract performance.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. Applications where inherent Crib 5 certification is required.

Cost position: High. Alpaca fibre is less widely produced than mohair or cotton and carries a premium.

Specification Summary by Application

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality environments, mohair velvet with an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment, and a rub count of 80,000 or above, is the most reliable natural-fibre specification. Synthetic Trevira CS velvet is the alternative where budget or client preference for machine-cleanable fabric applies.

For residential upholstery in moderate-use rooms, cotton velvet at 25,000 to 40,000 Martindale rubs is a sound mid-range specification. Linen velvet at 20,000 rubs suits briefs requiring a natural textural aesthetic.

For decorative applications, cushions, and occasional chairs in low-use rooms, silk velvet, cashmere velvet, or alpaca velvet are appropriate where budget allows and the client accepts the care requirements.

For south-facing rooms or high-light environments, confirm the specific ISO 105-B02 grade before specifying any velvet. Mohair in dark colourways, synthetic velvet, and solution-dyed fabrics offer the most reliable light fastness performance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most durable velvet for contract upholstery?

Mohair velvet is the most durable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery, achieving Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 depending on construction. It also carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 fire rating without topical treatment, making it the only natural-fibre velvet that meets both the durability and fire certification requirements of most UK contract environments without additional cost or treatment. High-specification synthetic velvet using Trevira CS fibre can achieve comparable or higher rub counts and also carries inherent fire resistance, at a lower cost but with a different aesthetic.

What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?

Mohair velvet is made from the hair of the Angora goat and achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating. Cotton velvet is made from cotton fibre and typically achieves 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, with no inherent Crib 5 rating. Cotton velvet requires topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair velvet has a characteristic directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate. Cotton velvet is less expensive but requires additional investment in fire treatment for contract projects, narrowing the price advantage in practice.

Can silk velvet be used for upholstery?

Silk velvet is not suitable for upholstery in regular use. It typically achieves fewer than 15,000 Martindale rubs, which places it in the decorative category unsuitable for seating. Silk is also highly photosensitive, with a light fastness grade of 2 to 4, meaning it will fade in rooms with natural light exposure. Silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification for contract use. It is appropriate for decorative cushions, curtains in low-light environments, and occasional chairs in rooms with very limited use.

Does mohair velvet have an inherent Crib 5 fire rating?

Mohair fibre has natural flame-resistant properties and a correctly woven mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not guaranteed for all mohair velvets by fibre type alone and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric. This distinguishes correctly certified mohair velvet from cotton, linen, and silk velvets, all of which require topical treatment to achieve Crib 5. Always request the independent test certificate from the supplier before specifying for contract use.

What velvet is best for south-facing rooms?

For south-facing rooms, specify velvet with an ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade of at least 6. Mohair velvet in dark colourways achieves grade 5 to 6. Synthetic velvet and solution-dyed fabrics typically achieve grade 6 to 7. Silk velvet and cashmere velvet should not be specified for south-facing rooms. Cotton and linen velvet achieve grade 4 to 5, which is borderline for sustained south-facing exposure. Always confirm the specific grade with the supplier for the colourway being ordered, as light fastness varies between colourways within the same range.

What is the difference between cut pile velvet and uncut pile velvet?

In cut pile velvet the pile loops are cut during production, producing upstanding individual fibres that create the characteristic dense, soft surface. In uncut pile or loop pile velvet the loops remain intact, producing a harder, more textural surface. Most upholstery velvet is cut pile. Some decorative velvets combine cut and uncut areas to create pattern, known as ciselé or voided velvet. For upholstery specification, cut pile velvet is the standard choice. Uncut or loop pile velvet may be specified where a more durable surface texture is required as the intact loops resist abrasion more effectively than cut pile.

How do I clean velvet upholstery without damaging the pile?

The cleaning method depends on the cleaning code assigned to the specific fabric. Most velvet upholstery is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry-cleaning agents only. Water applied to an S-coded velvet can cause watermarks and permanent pile distortion. Always work in the direction of the pile when applying any cleaning agent or brushing. For minor fresh stains on mohair velvet, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response. Serious staining should always be referred to a specialist dry cleaner experienced with velvet upholstery.

Is linen velvet suitable for contract upholstery?

Linen velvet is suitable for light contract use, subject to FR treatment and confirmation of the Martindale rub count for the specific range. A well-constructed linen velvet at 20,000 Martindale rubs meets the minimum threshold for general contract use. However, linen velvet does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently and requires topical treatment or an appropriate interliner for contract environments. For heavy contract use requiring 40,000 rubs or above and full Crib 5 certification, mohair velvet or synthetic velvet are more appropriate specifications.

For the tactile properties of each velvet type and how hand differs between fibres, see our fabric hand and tactile properties guide.

For velvet specification in hotel and hospitality projects, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For velvet on walls and headboards, see our wall panels and headboards guide.

Kothea offers mohair velvet, linen velvet, and cashmere silk velvet from its active range. To For when velvet is the wrong choice for a project, see our when not to use velvet guide. For pilling resistance by velvet type, see our pilling resistance guide. For mohair thermal properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, and light fastness grades by range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page and the silks page.