Which Fabrics and Fibres Can Be FR Treated: A Guide for Designers

Which Fabrics and Fibres Can Be FR Treated: A Guide for Interior Designers

Fibres that can generally be treated: Cotton, linen, wool, mohair, silk, viscose, polyester (with conditions), nylon, modacrylic
Fibres to avoid for FR treatment: Acrylic, polypropylene, polyethylene, pure acetate or triacetate
Exempt fibres (domestic upholstery): Cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose — do not require match test treatment if at least 75% natural fibre by weight with a Schedule 3 interliner
The single most important rule: Fibre type is a guide, not a guarantee. The specific fabric construction, dye type, and finish all affect treatability. Always confirm with the treatment provider before ordering.

A fabric that cannot be successfully FR treated is a fabric that cannot be legally used in a contract environment without an alternative compliance route. Discovering this after the fabric has been specified, ordered, and delivered is a significant problem. This guide explains which fibres and fabric types are treatable for the UK standards most commonly required in contract interiors, which should be avoided, and what the exemption rules mean for domestic upholstery.

For the fire standards that require treatment, see our Crib 5 guide and our hotel fabric specification guide. For how dye type affects FR treatment, see our dye types and FR treatment compatibility guide.

How Treatability Works

FR treatment works by introducing a chemical compound — typically phosphorus-based or halogenated — into or onto the fabric structure. For the treatment to be effective, the compound must be able to penetrate and adhere to the fabric in sufficient quantity to inhibit combustion. The fibre type determines whether this is chemically and physically possible.

Natural protein fibres — wool, mohair, silk — have an inherently higher resistance to ignition than cellulosic and synthetic fibres, which reduces the amount of chemical treatment required to achieve compliance. This is one reason protein fibre fabrics can often be treated successfully even at relatively low chemical loadings.

Cellulosic fibres — cotton, linen, viscose — ignite readily and require more chemical treatment to achieve compliance. They can generally be treated successfully, but the dye type carried on the fabric affects whether the treatment can be applied without causing colour change. See the dye types and FR treatment guide for detail on this.

Synthetic fibres present a different challenge. Some — polyester, nylon — can be treated. Others — acrylic, polypropylene, polyethylene — melt and flow when exposed to heat rather than forming a char, which FR chemicals cannot effectively prevent. Fabrics containing significant proportions of these fibres cannot be reliably FR treated.

Fibre by Fibre: Treatability for UK Contract Standards

Cotton. Can be treated for both Crib 5 upholstery and BS 5867 Part 2 Type B curtains. Cotton is one of the most commonly treated fibres in the UK contract market. Back-coating is the standard method for upholstery Crib 5. Wet padding is used for curtain treatment. Dye type matters: reactive-dyed cotton carries a risk of post-treatment colour change and should be confirmed with the treatment provider before committing to an order. In domestic upholstery, cotton is an exempt fibre — fabric of at least 75% cotton by weight does not require match test treatment if used with a Schedule 3 fire-retardant interliner.

Linen. Can be treated for Crib 5 and BS 5867. Linen is an exempt fibre for domestic upholstery at 75% or above by weight with a Schedule 3 interliner. For contract use, treatment is required and linen takes FR chemical treatment well when correctly applied. The same reactive dye caution applies as for cotton.

Wool. Can be treated. Wool is a protein fibre with natural fire resistance arising from its high nitrogen and sulphur content. It is an exempt fibre for domestic upholstery. For contract upholstery requiring Crib 5, wool can be back-coated. The treatment chemical loading required is typically lower than for cotton because of wool’s inherent resistance. Wool treated with FR chemicals retains its handle well compared to some other fibres. An exempt fibre for domestic use.

Mohair. Can be treated, and Kothea’s active ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes achieved without topical treatment on the tested ranges, meaning treatment is not required. Where a mohair velvet does not carry an inherent certification, it can be back-coated. Mohair is not listed as an exempt fibre for domestic upholstery under the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations, which means it does not qualify for the Schedule 3 interliner route at any fibre content level. It requires treatment for domestic match test compliance unless it passes the test inherently.

Silk. Can be treated with care. Silk is an exempt fibre for domestic upholstery. For contract use, silk can be back-coated for Crib 5 but the treatment process must be managed carefully — silk is a delicate fibre and incorrect application can alter handle and appearance. Silk velvet in particular is sensitive to any wet process and should be approached with specialist advice before treatment is specified. The low Martindale rub count of silk velvet means it is unlikely to be specified for most contract upholstery applications regardless of fire treatment status.

Viscose and modal. Can be treated. Viscose (also called rayon) is a regenerated cellulose fibre and behaves similarly to cotton in FR treatment. It is an exempt fibre for domestic upholstery. For contract use it can be back-coated or wet-padded. Viscose is prone to shrinkage in wet processes and the treatment must be applied with appropriate tension control. Modal (polynosic) is a modified viscose and is also generally treatable.

Cuprammonium (cupro). Can be treated but is not an exempt fibre. Less commonly encountered in upholstery specification but treatable by similar methods to other regenerated cellulosics.

Acetate and triacetate. Problematic. Acetate and triacetate are cellulose acetate fibres with thermoplastic properties — they melt and drip when heated. This makes effective FR treatment very difficult. Treatment is only practically viable when acetate or triacetate are present as minor components in a blend with natural fibres. Fabrics with significant acetate or triacetate content should be avoided for contract applications requiring FR treatment. Not exempt fibres for domestic use.

Polyester. Can be treated when blended with natural fibres. Pure polyester is a thermoplastic fibre — it melts rather than chars — and standard FR back-coating compounds are less effective on pure polyester than on natural fibres. However, polyester blended with natural fibres at significant proportions can be treated. Trevira CS is a permanently flame-retardant polyester fibre whose fire resistance is inherent to the polymer and does not require topical treatment. Standard polyester in blend with cotton or wool at 50% or above natural fibre content is typically treatable by back-coating. Confirm the specific blend and proposed treatment method with the treatment provider.

Nylon (polyamide). Can be treated when blended with natural fibres. Similar position to polyester — thermoplastic in its pure form, more treatable in natural fibre blends. Nylon 6,6 blended with wool or cotton at significant proportions can generally be back-coated for Crib 5.

Modacrylic. Can be treated. Modacrylic is a modified acrylic fibre with significantly better inherent fire resistance than standard acrylic. It is treatable for both upholstery and curtain standards and behaves well in FR treatment processes.

Acrylic. Avoid. Standard acrylic (at least 85% acrylonitrile) is thermoplastic and melts and drips when exposed to heat. FR chemicals cannot effectively prevent this behaviour. Acrylic should not be specified for contract applications requiring FR treatment. This applies to both upholstery and curtain use. Not an exempt fibre.

Polypropylene. Avoid. Polypropylene burns readily and melts at low temperatures. It cannot be reliably FR treated to UK contract standards. Not an exempt fibre.

Polyethylene. Avoid. Same position as polypropylene — melts and burns without forming a char. Not treatable. Not an exempt fibre.

The Domestic Exemption: What It Means in Practice

The Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations define a category of exempt fibres for domestic upholstery. A fabric composed of at least 75% by weight of exempt fibres — alone or in combination — does not require treatment for the match test (BS 5852 Source 1), provided it is used with a fire-retardant Schedule 3 interliner. It must still pass the cigarette test (BS 5852 Source 0).

The exempt fibres are: cotton, linen (flax), wool, silk, viscose (rayon), modal (polynosic). Mohair is not on the exempt list despite being a natural protein fibre with good inherent fire resistance. A fabric of 100% mohair does not qualify for the Schedule 3 interliner route and must pass the match test by another means — either inherently or through topical treatment.

The exemption applies to domestic upholstery only. It does not apply to contract upholstery, where Crib 5 or BS 7176 certification is required regardless of fibre content. A fabric of 100% cotton used on a domestic sofa with a Schedule 3 interliner is compliant for domestic sale. The same fabric on a hotel chair requires Crib 5 certification.

The Schedule 3 interliner must itself be fire retardant to the required standard. It cannot be a standard curtain interlining or a general-purpose backing fabric. The interliner supplier should provide confirmation that the product meets the Schedule 3 requirement.

Fabric Construction and Finishes That Affect Treatability

Fibre type is the primary determinant of treatability but not the only one. The following fabric characteristics can affect whether a treatment will be effective or practical.

Pile fabrics. Velvet and other pile fabrics present additional considerations for FR treatment. The pile surface increases the volume of combustible material at the surface relative to a flat-woven fabric of the same fibre and weight. A pile fabric may require a higher chemical loading to achieve compliance than a flat-woven fabric of the same fibre. The pile structure also means that any visible effect of treatment — colour change, handle alteration — is more noticeable than on a plain fabric. Treatment must be applied from the back only, without penetrating the pile face.

Coated or laminated fabrics. Fabrics with a polymer coating or laminate backing may not be treatable by standard back-coating methods because the existing coating prevents adhesion of the FR compound. Faux leather and coated technical fabrics typically achieve their fire performance through the inherent properties of the coating compound rather than topical FR treatment.

Water-repellent or stain-resistant finishes. Some fabrics carry a Teflon, Scotchgard, or similar fluorocarbon finish for stain resistance. These finishes can reduce the penetration of FR chemicals into the fabric structure, potentially reducing treatment effectiveness. Confirm with the treatment provider whether the specific finish is compatible with the proposed treatment method before ordering.

Very lightweight fabrics. Sheer curtain fabrics and extremely lightweight upholstery fabrics may be difficult to treat without visible handle change or shrinkage, regardless of fibre type. The chemical loading required for compliance may be a higher proportion of the fabric weight than for a heavier cloth, making the treated fabric noticeably different in handle from the untreated original.

What to Ask Before Specifying a Fabric for FR Treatment

Before specifying a fabric that will require topical FR treatment for contract use, confirm the following with the fabric supplier and with the proposed treatment provider.

What is the full fibre composition by percentage? The fibre content label gives this, but confirm with the supplier whether any blend components are thermoplastic — polyester, nylon, acrylic — and at what proportion.

Does the fabric carry any surface finish — stain resistance, water repellency, or coating — that might affect FR treatment penetration?

What is the dye class? See the dye types and FR treatment guide for why this matters.

Has this specific fabric been successfully FR treated before, and to which standard? Treatment providers keep records and can often advise whether a specific fabric has been through their process previously.

Is the treatment provider UKAS-accredited to issue the certificate required for the project? For contract upholstery the certificate must be issued by a UKAS-accredited laboratory. No fabric company or designer can self-certify FR compliance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can all fabrics be made fire retardant?

No. Fibres that melt rather than char when heated — acrylic, polypropylene, polyethylene, and pure acetate — cannot be reliably FR treated to UK contract standards. FR chemicals work by inhibiting combustion in fibres that burn; they cannot prevent the melt-and-drip behaviour of thermoplastic fibres. Fabrics containing significant proportions of these fibres should not be specified for contract applications requiring Crib 5 or BS 5867 compliance through topical treatment.

Can polyester be FR treated?

Pure polyester is thermoplastic and difficult to treat effectively by standard back-coating methods. Polyester blended with natural fibres at substantial proportions — typically 50% or more natural fibre — can generally be back-coated for Crib 5. Trevira CS is a permanently flame-retardant polyester fibre with inherent fire resistance that does not require topical treatment. Always confirm the specific blend composition and proposed treatment method with the treatment provider before specifying.

Does a fabric with 75% natural fibre content need FR treatment for contract use?

Yes. The 75% natural fibre exemption applies only to domestic upholstery under the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations, allowing the use of a Schedule 3 interliner in place of match test treatment. It does not apply to contract upholstery, where Crib 5 or BS 7176 certification is required regardless of fibre content. A hotel, restaurant, or other commercial environment requires certified FR compliance irrespective of whether the fabric is made from exempt fibres.

Can mohair velvet be FR treated?

Mohair velvet that does not carry an inherent Crib 5 certification can be back-coated for Crib 5. However, Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes on the tested ranges without topical treatment, which removes the need for treatment entirely. Mohair is not an exempt fibre under the domestic regulations regardless of fibre content, so it requires Crib 5 compliance by inherent certification or topical treatment for all contract applications.

Will FR treatment change how my fabric looks or feels?

Back-coating applied correctly to upholstery fabric does not typically alter the appearance or handle of the face. Wet-padded curtain treatment can affect the handle of lightweight fabrics, particularly sheers. Pile fabrics treated from the back retain their face pile character if the treatment does not penetrate the face. Any fabric where colour or handle change would be commercially significant should be sample-treated and approved before committing to a full order.

Who can issue a Crib 5 certificate?

Only a UKAS-accredited testing laboratory can issue a Crib 5 certificate. A fabric supplier, treatment company, or interior designer cannot self-certify FR compliance. When specifying a fabric for contract use, request the test certificate from the supplier and confirm that the issuing laboratory is UKAS-accredited. For contract curtain treatment requiring BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, the same applies.

For how back-coating and wet padding work, see our how FR treatment works guide. For the fire standards requiring FR treatment, see our Crib 5 guide. For dye types and their interaction with FR treatment, see our dye types and FR treatment guide.

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6 April 20266 April 2026

Colour Fastness and Crocking: Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers

Colour Fastness and Crocking: A Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers

Crocking grade minimum for contract upholstery: Grade 4 dry / Grade 3 wet (ISO 105-X12 grey scale)
Light fastness minimum for contract interiors: ISO 105-B02 grade 5 — grade 6 for south-facing or high-light environments
Highest crocking risk: Dark colourways, velvet pile fabrics, deeply saturated reds and navies
Reverse crocking risk: New denim, dark throw cushions, and clothing transferring dye onto light upholstery

Colour fastness describes how well a fabric retains its colour when exposed to the agents most likely to cause change: light, rubbing, cleaning, and moisture. Crocking is a specific type of colour fastness failure in which excess dye transfers from one surface to another through friction. Both are routine specification criteria for contract fabric but are consistently underspecified in residential projects, which is where most complaints about colour change and dye transfer originate.

This guide explains the two tests that matter most — ISO 105-B02 for light fastness and ISO 105-X12 for crocking — how to read the grades, which fabrics and colourways carry the highest risk, and what to specify to avoid problems in use. For colour naming, systems, and metamerism — why the same colour looks different in different light — see our colour naming and specification guide. For light fastness guidance specific to room orientation and project environment, see our complete guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale. For dye types and their interaction with FR treatment, see our post on dye types and FR treatment compatibility.

The Two Tests That Matter

Colour fastness is not a single test. It is a family of tests under the ISO 105 series, each measuring resistance to a specific agent. For interior fabric specification, two tests are routinely relevant and should appear on every contract fabric data sheet.

ISO 105-B02: Colour fastness to light. This test measures how resistant a fabric’s colour is to degradation by light. A xenon arc lamp simulates sunlight and the fabric is exposed for a controlled duration. The result is graded against the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8, where grade 1 indicates very poor light fastness and grade 8 indicates the highest possible resistance. For a full explanation of this test and the Blue Wool Scale, see our light fastness guide.

ISO 105-X12: Colour fastness to rubbing (crocking). This test measures how much dye transfers from a fabric onto other surfaces through friction. The fabric is rubbed with a standardised white cloth using a crockmeter — a machine that applies controlled pressure and movement — under both dry and wet conditions. The degree of staining on the white cloth is assessed using the grey scale for staining, graded from 1 to 5. Grade 5 indicates no staining. Grade 1 indicates severe staining. Most contract specifications require a minimum of grade 4 for dry rubbing and grade 3 for wet rubbing.

Understanding Crocking

Crocking occurs when dye that has not fully bonded to the fabric fibre transfers onto another surface through friction. Every dyed fabric contains some proportion of unfixed dye after manufacture. The degree of crocking depends on the dye class used, the dyeing process, the fibre type, and whether the fabric has been adequately washed and finished after dyeing to remove surplus dye.

Dry crocking is caused by mechanical abrasion alone. A fabric in good condition and correctly dyed will typically achieve a better dry crocking grade than wet. Wet crocking occurs when moisture is present — from perspiration, cleaning, or humidity — and is almost always worse than dry crocking because water molecules help loosen dye and carry it to the adjacent surface. This is why a fabric that appears stable in dry conditions can transfer colour noticeably on a humid day or after light spillage.

The fabrics most susceptible to crocking are those with rough or open pile surfaces, dark saturated colourways, and fibres that are difficult to dye with strong molecular bonds. Velvet is the most relevant category for interior designers. The pile surface of velvet creates more friction points than a flat-woven fabric and dye at the pile tips is more exposed to contact than dye within the body of a woven yarn. Dark velvet colourways — deep navy, rich red, dark green, charcoal — are dyed with higher concentrations of pigment and carry greater crocking risk than pale or mid-tone colourways of the same fabric.

Denim is the most commonly cited source of reverse crocking onto upholstery. New denim is typically dyed with indigo, which physically lodges within the fibre structure rather than forming a covalent bond. Indigo is easily dislodged by friction and moisture and will transfer readily onto light-coloured upholstery, particularly in warm or humid conditions. In a hotel or hospitality environment this is commercially significant: a guest in new jeans sitting on a pale upholstered chair can leave a visible mark within a single visit.

Crocking Grades: What They Mean in Practice

Grade 5: No staining. No dye transfers to the rubbing cloth. Rarely achieved by dark saturated colourways on pile fabrics.

Grade 4: Slight staining. A small amount of dye transfers but is barely visible. The minimum acceptable grade for dry crocking in most contract specifications.

Grade 3: Moderate staining. Visible dye transfer that would be noticeable in use. The minimum acceptable grade for wet crocking in most contract specifications. Grade 3 dry would indicate elevated crocking risk and should prompt discussion with the supplier before specifying for high-contact applications.

Grade 2: Significant staining. Noticeable colour transfer likely in use. Not acceptable for contract upholstery. May be flagged as acceptable for cushion or decorative applications only.

Grade 1: Severe staining. The fabric will visibly transfer colour in normal use. Not acceptable for any upholstery application.

The accepted industry minimum for contract upholstery fabrics is grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet. For hotel and hospitality environments where guests wear a wide range of clothing and the fabric is cleaned frequently, specifying grade 4 for both dry and wet provides better protection. Always confirm both grades — dry and wet — before specifying, as some suppliers report only the dry grade.

Crocking and Velvet: Specific Considerations

Velvet requires particular attention in crocking specification for two reasons. First, the pile structure creates more contact surface than a flat-woven fabric, increasing the potential for dye transfer in use. Second, velvet in dark colourways is dyed with higher pigment concentrations to achieve the depth of colour that makes dark velvet visually distinctive. The combination of pile structure and high pigment load means that dark velvets consistently achieve lower crocking grades than the same fabric in pale colourways.

This does not mean dark velvet cannot be specified for contract use. Mohair velvet in particular achieves good colour fastness due to the natural receptivity of the mohair fibre to acid dyes and the strong molecular bonds those dyes form with protein fibres. A well-dyed dark mohair velvet will typically achieve grade 3 to 4 dry and grade 3 wet, which is within the acceptable range for contract use. The key is confirming the actual grade for the specific colourway before specifying, not assuming a single grade applies across all colourways in the range.

Pale colourways of any velvet carry the reverse crocking risk: dye transfer from clothing onto the fabric. This is most acute with white, cream, and very pale colourways in environments where guests may be wearing freshly laundered dark clothing or new denim. For hotel seating in these colourways, confirm the crocking grade of the fabric in the context of incoming dye transfer, not just outgoing.

For a full comparison of velvet fibre types and their relevant specification data, see our velvet types compared guide.

Light Fastness and Crocking: How They Relate

Light fastness and crocking are distinct tests measuring different forms of colour stability, but they are both dye-related and a fabric that performs poorly on one will often perform poorly on both if the underlying dye chemistry is weak. A fabric dyed with reactive dyes, for example, will typically show moderate light fastness and may show crocking susceptibility, particularly after FR treatment. A fabric dyed with vat dyes — the most stable dye class — will achieve excellent light fastness and low crocking risk. Understanding the dye type used is therefore useful context when evaluating both grades.

The practical relationship for specifiers is as follows. A fabric that achieves light fastness grade 6 and crocking grade 4 dry is a well-dyed fabric with strong molecular dye-fibre bonds throughout. A fabric that achieves light fastness grade 3 and crocking grade 2 dry has weak dye-fibre bonds and is likely to show visible colour change and dye transfer in use within months. Neither extreme is always obvious from looking at the fabric in a showroom.

Always request both grades from the supplier before specifying for contract use. A supplier who cannot provide both grades — either because the fabric has not been tested or because the grades are not published — is a supplier whose fabric should not be specified for contract without independent testing.

Colour Fastness After FR Treatment

FR treatment can affect colour fastness. Back-coating, the most common method of applying Crib 5 treatment to upholstery fabrics, involves applying a chemical compound to the reverse of the fabric. Provided the treatment is applied correctly and does not penetrate the face of the fabric, it typically has no effect on the colour fastness or crocking grade of the face fabric.

Wet padding, used for certain curtain and lighter-weight fabrics, applies FR chemicals to the fabric in solution. Reactive dyes are known to be sensitive to the mild acidic conditions involved in some FR padding treatments. In some cases, fading can develop in the months following treatment — not immediately after, but progressively as atmospheric pollutants interact with the treated fabric. This is not visible at the time of installation and cannot be detected by standard pre-treatment testing. If specifying a fabric with reactive dyes for FR treatment, confirm with the treatment provider whether fading has been observed with that dye class on similar fabrics, and request sample swatches treated and stored for three to six months before committing to a full order.

For full detail on dye types and FR treatment interactions, see our post on dye types and FR treatment compatibility.

What to Check Before Specifying

Request the ISO 105-X12 crocking grade for both dry and wet conditions, and for the specific colourway you are ordering. Crocking grades can vary significantly between colourways within the same range, particularly between dark and pale colourways. A grade reported for the standard or mid-tone colourway in a range may not reflect the performance of the darkest available colourway.

Request the ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade for the specific colourway. As with crocking, light fastness varies between colourways and a dark colourway may achieve a higher grade than a pale one in the same range.

If the fabric is to be FR treated, confirm the dye class and whether fading problems have been observed with similar fabrics and treatments. Ask the treatment provider directly, not just the fabric supplier.

For hotel and hospitality projects, consider the reverse crocking risk for pale upholstery. The fabric’s own crocking grade tells you how much dye will transfer out. It does not tell you how resistant the fabric surface is to incoming dye transfer from guests’ clothing. Pale, tight-woven, or coated fabrics are more resistant to incoming dye transfer than pale velvet or pale linen.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is crocking in upholstery fabric?

Crocking is the transfer of excess dye from a fabric onto another surface through friction. It occurs when dye has not fully bonded to the fibre during dyeing, leaving surplus pigment on or near the surface that is dislodged by contact. Crocking can be dry, caused by mechanical friction alone, or wet, where moisture helps carry the dye to the adjacent surface. Wet crocking is almost always worse than dry. It is tested to ISO 105-X12 and graded 1 to 5, with grade 5 meaning no transfer and grade 1 meaning severe transfer. The minimum acceptable grades for contract upholstery are grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet.

Which fabrics crock the most?

Dark saturated colourways of pile fabrics — particularly velvet — carry the highest crocking risk. The pile surface creates more friction points than a flat-woven fabric and dark colourways are dyed with higher pigment concentrations. Denim is the most commonly cited source of reverse crocking onto upholstery, particularly onto pale fabrics. New denim dyed with indigo can transfer blue dye onto light-coloured seating on first contact. Cotton velvet in dark colourways has higher crocking risk than mohair velvet in comparable colourways due to the stronger molecular bond formed between acid dyes and protein fibres.

What crocking grade should I specify for hotel upholstery?

For hotel and hospitality upholstery, specify a minimum of grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet to ISO 105-X12. For pale upholstery in environments where guests wear a wide range of clothing, consider the reverse crocking risk from incoming dye transfer and prefer fabrics with tighter weave structures or protective finishes. For dark velvet in high-contact seating, confirm the specific colourway crocking grade with the supplier before ordering, as grades can vary significantly between the darkest and lightest colourways in the same range.

Does FR treatment affect crocking and colour fastness?

Back-coating, the most common method for upholstery, typically does not affect the face colour of the fabric if applied correctly. Wet padding treatments used for curtains and lighter fabrics can affect fabrics dyed with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes are sensitive to mild acidic conditions and can fade progressively in the months following treatment, a problem that is not visible at installation. If specifying a fabric with reactive dyes for FR treatment, confirm with the treatment provider whether this has been observed with similar fabrics.

What is the difference between crocking and light fastness?

Crocking is the transfer of dye to other surfaces through friction, tested to ISO 105-X12. Light fastness is the resistance of a fabric’s colour to degradation by light exposure, tested to ISO 105-B02 and graded on the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8. Both reflect the quality of the dye-fibre bond, and a fabric with weak dye chemistry will often perform poorly on both. They are separate tests and a fabric must be tested to both standards to report both grades. A high Martindale rub count does not imply good crocking or light fastness — these are entirely separate properties.

Can new jeans stain my upholstery?

Yes. New denim is typically dyed with indigo, which physically lodges within the cotton fibre rather than forming a chemical bond. Indigo transfers readily onto adjacent surfaces through friction, particularly in warm or humid conditions. The risk is highest with pale upholstery fabrics, particularly those with open or pile surfaces. Tight-woven, solution-dyed, or coated fabrics are more resistant to incoming dye transfer than velvet or linen. In hotel environments with pale seating, this is a practical specification consideration rather than a theoretical one.

For specification data on individual Kothea ranges see the mohair velvet, upholstery linen, and faux leather product pages.

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6 April 20267 April 2026

Faux Leather Types Compared: PVC vs PU vs Silicone Leather for Upholstery

Faux Leather Types Compared: PVC, PU and Silicone Leather for Interior Designers

Most durable for contract use: PVC — highest abrasion resistance, best chemical resistance, inherently suited to Crib 5 certification
Softest handle: PU — closer to genuine leather in feel, better breathability, lower abrasion resistance than PVC
Best for marine, healthcare, and outdoor: Silicone leather — inherently flame resistant, UV stable, no plasticisers, widest temperature range
Kothea range: Faux Leather 3 is PVC — 100,000+ Martindale, Crib 5, wipe-clean, 140cm wide

Faux leather is not a single material. The term covers three structurally distinct product types — PVC, PU, and silicone leather — each with different performance profiles, fire characteristics, cleaning requirements, and environmental credentials. Specifying between them on the basis of appearance alone is the most common error in faux leather selection. This guide explains the differences that matter for a professional specification.

For background on Martindale rub counts referenced throughout this guide, see our Martindale rub test guide. For fire standards, see our Crib 5 guide and, for marine projects, our IMO marine fire standards guide.

What All Three Have in Common

PVC, PU, and silicone leather are all coated fabrics. They consist of a woven or knitted textile backing, typically polyester, to which a polymer coating is applied to create a surface that resembles leather. The backing provides tensile strength, dimensional stability, and the base for the coating to adhere to. The coating determines the surface properties: appearance, feel, stain resistance, fire behaviour, UV resistance, and cleaning compatibility.

All three can be produced in a wide range of colours and surface textures. All three are sold by the metre without the hide-size limitations of genuine leather. All three are easier to specify consistently across large projects than genuine leather, where dye lot and grain variation between hides is unavoidable. None requires the animal welfare considerations associated with genuine leather.

Beyond these shared characteristics, the three types diverge significantly in performance, sustainability, and appropriate application.

PVC Leather (Polyvinyl Chloride)

PVC leather is the most widely used faux leather in UK contract interiors. It consists of a PVC polymer paste coating applied over a polyester backing. The structure is dense and impermeable, with no open pores in the surface coating. This is what gives PVC leather its characteristic durability, stain resistance, and ease of cleaning.

Durability. PVC leather achieves the highest abrasion resistance of any faux leather type. High-specification PVC ranges routinely exceed 100,000 Martindale rubs. The dense multi-layer structure resists surface wear better than PU at equivalent price points. This makes PVC the default choice for hotel restaurant seating, bar stools, transport upholstery, and any application where the fabric will receive sustained and continuous contact.

Fire rating. PVC contains inherent fire-resistant properties due to its high chlorine content. A correctly formulated PVC faux leather can achieve BS 5852 Crib 5 certification without backcoating, though the specific compound formulation and any foam used in a composite test must be confirmed by an independent test certificate. PVC faux leather is among the most readily Crib 5-certifiable upholstery materials available.

Cleaning and chemical resistance. PVC resists water, alcohol, disinfectants, and most common cleaning agents. The impermeable surface can be wiped clean between uses without specialist products. This is the property that makes PVC faux leather the standard choice for healthcare environments, food and beverage seating, and any application where contamination is a practical concern. Confirm compatibility between specific cleaning agents and the specific product before specifying for environments using industrial or hospital-grade disinfectants.

Light fastness. PVC has good inherent UV resistance, typically achieving ISO 105-B02 grade 6 or above in mid and dark colourways. This is significantly better than most natural-fibre upholstery fabrics and makes PVC suitable for south-facing rooms and high-light environments where natural fabrics would require careful colourway selection.

Handle and breathability. PVC leather is the least breathable of the three types. In sustained contact, particularly in warm environments, the impermeable surface can feel warm or sticky. This is rarely a significant factor for seating used in short intervals — restaurant chairs, bar stools, meeting room chairs — but is relevant for seating used for extended periods, such as office chairs or long-haul transport seating where PU may be preferred.

Environmental profile. PVC has the highest environmental cost of the three types. The chlorine-based polymer produces dioxin compounds during manufacture and at end of life. PVC is difficult to recycle due to its mixed material composition. Many high-specification PVC faux leathers now use phthalate-free plasticiser formulations in response to EU REACH regulations, which address the most significant health concerns, but the underlying polymer chemistry remains a legitimate sustainability concern.

Cost position. Mid-range. High-specification PVC faux leather offering 100,000+ Martindale rubs and Crib 5 certification is competitively priced relative to the performance it delivers. It is typically less expensive than equivalent-performing PU microfibre or silicone leather.

Best for: Hotel restaurant and bar seating, healthcare upholstery, transport seating, high-traffic contract environments, marine exterior seating, headboards in hotel bedrooms, wall panelling in food and beverage environments.

Not recommended for: Extended-contact seating in warm environments where breathability matters. Projects with strict environmental sustainability requirements. Applications requiring inherent flame resistance without reliance on PVC chemistry.

PU Leather (Polyurethane)

PU leather consists of a polyurethane coating applied over a textile backing, typically a cotton or polyester base. The polyurethane surface is softer, more flexible, and more breathable than PVC, and produces a finish that more closely resembles genuine leather in handle and drape.

Durability. Standard PU leather achieves 30,000 to 80,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction and grade. High-specification PU microfibre products, where the PU coating is applied to a microfibre non-woven backing, can exceed 100,000 rubs and approach PVC performance. However, at equivalent price points, PVC typically outperforms standard PU in abrasion resistance. PU is also more susceptible to degradation from hydrolysis — the breakdown of the polymer by moisture and humidity over time — particularly in warm, humid environments. This is the primary cause of the peeling and surface delamination seen in lower-grade PU after two to three years of use.

Fire rating. PU does not have the inherent fire resistance of PVC. PU faux leather typically requires a fire-retardant additive or backcoating to achieve BS 5852 Crib 5 certification. The treatment adds cost and affects lead time. Always confirm the Crib 5 certification method with the supplier — whether inherent to the formulation or applied — and request the independent test certificate.

Cleaning and chemical resistance. PU leather is water-resistant but less resistant to solvents and alcohol than PVC. The micro-surface of PU is more prone to absorbing certain staining agents over time. PU is generally not recommended for environments where strong disinfectants are used routinely. Confirm the specific cleaning regime with the supplier before specifying for healthcare or high-frequency cleaning environments.

Light fastness. PU achieves good light fastness — typically ISO 105-B02 grade 5 to 6 — though slightly lower than PVC in most cases. Standard PU is not recommended for outdoor use. High-specification PU microfibre designed for automotive applications achieves better UV performance, but standard contract PU faux leather should be confirmed for light fastness before specifying in south-facing or high-light environments.

Handle and breathability. PU is softer and more breathable than PVC. In extended seating use it is more comfortable and does not produce the warm or sticky sensation associated with PVC in warm conditions. For office seating, residential-specification seating in hospitality environments, and any application where extended contact comfort matters, PU offers a noticeably better tactile experience.

Environmental profile. PU is more environmentally benign than PVC in manufacture and disposal. It does not contain chlorine and does not produce dioxins. Some PU products use water-based polyurethane systems, which significantly reduce VOC emissions during manufacture. PU is the more sustainable choice between PVC and PU for projects with environmental requirements, though silicone leather goes further on most sustainability measures.

Cost position. Mid to high. Standard PU faux leather is broadly comparable to PVC. High-specification PU microfibre products are premium priced.

Best for: Luxury residential specification where genuine leather handle is desired without the maintenance requirements. Boutique hotel seating where tactile quality is a client priority. Office seating where extended contact comfort matters. Environments where PVC sustainability concerns are commercially relevant.

Not recommended for: High-humidity environments where hydrolysis degradation is a risk. Environments requiring regular disinfectant cleaning. Heavy contract seating where maximum abrasion resistance is the priority. Marine exterior use.

Silicone Leather

Silicone leather is a coated fabric where the coating is a silicone resin rather than a PVC or PU polymer. It is the newest of the three types in commercial interior use and commands a significant price premium. Its performance profile is distinctive enough to make it the correct specification in a specific set of applications.

Durability. Silicone leather achieves high abrasion resistance — 100,000 Martindale rubs and above — and is resistant to UV degradation, extreme temperatures, and chemical exposure in ways that PVC and PU cannot match. The silicone polymer does not break down under UV light, maintains flexibility at low temperatures where PVC may crack, and remains stable at high temperatures. This makes it the correct specification for outdoor and semi-outdoor use, and for environments with extreme temperature or UV exposure.

Fire rating. Silicone is inherently flame resistant. The polymer structure does not require plasticisers or fire-retardant additives to achieve fire resistance. This inherent property survives cleaning and does not degrade over the life of the fabric. For applications where fire certification must survive aggressive cleaning regimes — healthcare, public transport, marine interiors — the inherent nature of silicone’s fire resistance is a significant specification advantage.

Cleaning and chemical resistance. Silicone leather has the best chemical resistance of the three types. Its low surface tension makes it inherently stain-resistant and resistant to oils, solvents, disinfectants, and most common cleaning agents. Hospital-grade disinfectants, bleach solutions, and alcohol-based cleaners that would degrade PU and may affect certain PVC formulations over time can be used on silicone leather without surface damage.

Light fastness. Silicone leather offers the best UV resistance of the three types. The polymer structure does not degrade under UV exposure in the way that PVC and PU can over time. Silicone leather is the correct specification for outdoor seating, terraces, poolside furniture, and marine exterior cushions exposed to sustained sunlight.

Handle and breathability. High-quality silicone leather has a distinctive soft, smooth handle that is different from both PVC and PU. It does not have the rigidity or warmth-retention of PVC, and its surface does not develop the micro-cracking associated with ageing PU. The handle is a matter of preference but it does not closely approximate genuine leather in the way that high-grade PU can.

Environmental profile. Silicone is derived from silica, a naturally occurring mineral. The manufacturing process uses no solvents, produces low VOC emissions, and no dioxins or phthalates. Silicone does not break down into microplastics. It can be downcycled at end of life. Silicone leather is the most environmentally responsible of the three types by most measures, and its environmental credentials are defensible to a degree that PVC and standard PU are not.

Cost position. High. Silicone leather commands a significant premium over PVC and PU. For most standard contract applications where PVC would perform adequately, the premium is not justified by the performance advantage. Where the specific properties of silicone — UV stability, temperature range, chemical resistance, inherent flame resistance — are genuinely required, the cost is appropriate.

Best for: Outdoor and semi-outdoor seating exposed to UV and weather. Marine interior seating on commercial and charter vessels where IMO certification is required and inherent flame resistance is an advantage. Healthcare environments requiring aggressive chemical cleaning with inherent fire resistance. High-end residential projects where sustainability credentials are a client requirement.

Not recommended for: Standard contract interiors where PVC delivers equivalent performance at lower cost. Any project where budget is a primary constraint.

Comparison at a Glance

Martindale rub count: PVC high-specification 100,000+; PU standard 30,000 to 80,000, PU microfibre 100,000+; silicone 100,000+.

Fire certification: PVC can achieve Crib 5 inherently; PU typically requires FR additive or backcoating; silicone is inherently flame resistant.

Cleaning compatibility: PVC excellent with most agents; PU good with mild products, caution with solvents; silicone excellent with all agents including hospital-grade disinfectants.

UV resistance: PVC good, grade 6+; PU moderate, grade 5 to 6; silicone excellent, stable under extended UV exposure.

Breathability: PVC low; PU moderate; silicone moderate.

Environmental profile: PVC highest impact, chlorine-based; PU moderate, better than PVC; silicone lowest impact, no solvents or plasticisers.

Cost relative to performance: PVC best value for standard contract use; PU best value where handle and breathability matter; silicone justified where its specific properties are genuinely required.

Kothea Faux Leather

Kothea’s Faux Leather 3 is a high-specification PVC faux leather achieving in excess of 100,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating. It is 140cm wide, available in over 20 colourways, and carries a wipe-clean surface compatible with water-based hotel and contract cleaning products. It is the correct specification for hotel restaurant and bar seating, headboards, wall panelling, and high-traffic contract upholstery where maximum durability, fire certification, and cleaning compatibility are the primary requirements.

For hotel and hospitality specification guidance including Martindale thresholds by room type, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For marine projects requiring IMO certification, see our IMO marine fire standards guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between PVC and PU faux leather?

PVC faux leather uses a polyvinyl chloride coating and has the highest abrasion resistance, best chemical resistance, and most readily achievable Crib 5 fire rating of any faux leather type. PU faux leather uses a polyurethane coating and is softer, more breathable, and more environmentally responsible than PVC, but typically achieves lower abrasion resistance at equivalent price points and requires FR treatment to achieve Crib 5. PVC is the standard choice for heavy contract use. PU is preferred where tactile quality and breathability matter more than maximum durability.

What is silicone leather and when should I specify it?

Silicone leather is a coated fabric where the surface coating is silicone resin rather than PVC or PU. It is inherently flame resistant, UV stable, resistant to extreme temperatures, and compatible with hospital-grade cleaning agents. It commands a significant price premium over PVC and PU and is the correct specification for outdoor and semi-outdoor seating, marine interiors, healthcare environments requiring aggressive chemical cleaning, and high-end projects where environmental sustainability is a client requirement. For most standard contract interiors, PVC delivers equivalent or superior performance at lower cost.

Which faux leather is most durable for hotel use?

High-specification PVC faux leather is the most durable and most practically suited to hotel use. It achieves 100,000+ Martindale rubs, can be Crib 5 certified, and is compatible with the water-based and alkaline cleaning products used in hotel housekeeping. PU leather at equivalent price points achieves lower abrasion resistance and is less resistant to the cleaning chemicals used in hotel environments. For hotel restaurant seating, bar stools, and headboards, PVC is the default specification. See our hotel fabric specification guide for Martindale thresholds by room type.

Is PVC faux leather suitable for marine use?

PVC faux leather is suitable for marine use subject to fire certification. For private yachts, a Crib 5 certificate is typically sufficient. For commercial charter vessels under the MCA Large Commercial Yacht Code, the fabric must hold an IMO FTP Code Part 8 certificate obtained from an IMO-approved laboratory. A Crib 5 certificate does not substitute for an IMO Part 8 certificate on commercial vessels. PVC is well suited to marine environments in terms of moisture resistance, UV stability, and cleaning compatibility. Silicone leather offers superior UV and temperature performance for exterior marine applications. See our IMO marine fire standards guide for full detail.

Does faux leather fade in sunlight?

PVC faux leather typically achieves ISO 105-B02 grade 6 or above and is suitable for most residential and contract environments including south-facing rooms. PU achieves grade 5 to 6 and should be confirmed for high-light environments. Silicone leather is the most UV stable of the three types and is the correct specification for outdoor or sustained direct-sunlight applications. For full guidance on light fastness grades and room orientation, see our light fastness guide.

Is PU leather better than PVC for sustainability?

PU is more environmentally responsible than PVC in manufacture and disposal. PVC production uses chlorine-based chemistry that produces dioxin compounds. PU does not contain chlorine and some PU products use water-based systems that further reduce environmental impact. Silicone leather has the best environmental profile of the three types — it is derived from silica, uses no solvents in manufacture, produces no dioxins or phthalates, and does not break down into microplastics. For projects where environmental credentials are a priority, PU offers a better position than PVC, and silicone leather offers the most defensible environmental specification.

For healthcare fabric specification including silicone leather and healthcare-grade PVC, see our healthcare fabric guide. For when to use faux leather instead of velvet, see our when not to use velvet guide.

For faux leather specification in outdoor terraces and semi-outdoor hospitality environments, see our outdoor terrace fabric specification guide.

For Building Safety Act 2022 documentation requirements for fabric in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act guide.

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5 April 20267 April 2026

Hotel Fabric Specification Guide: Martindale, Crib 5, Cleaning and Dye Lots

How to Specify Fabric for Hotel and Hospitality Projects: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers

Minimum Martindale: 40,000 rubs (bedroom) / 60,000 rubs (restaurant and bar) / 80,000–100,000 rubs (lobby)
Fire standard: BS 7176 Medium Hazard — not just Crib 5
Cleaning code: W or WS preferred — S-coded fabrics are often incompatible with hotel housekeeping
Download: Hotel fabric specification checklist (PDF)

Hotel fabric specification is categorically different from residential work. The same fabric that performs well in a client’s drawing room will fail visibly within months in a hotel bedroom. The difference is not only the volume of use but the nature of that use: guests treat hotel furniture differently from their own, housekeeping applies chemicals that residential cleaning never encounters, and the fire authority expects documentation that a residential project never requires. This guide covers every dimension of hotel fabric specification, from Martindale thresholds by room type to dye lot consistency across multi-phase projects.

For the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale, fabric care symbols and cleaning codes, and velvet types compared.

Understand the Project Before Specifying Any Fabric

Before selecting a fabric, confirm the following with the client or project manager. The answers determine every specification decision that follows.

Brand tier and refurbishment cycle. A budget hotel expecting to refurbish every five years has different durability requirements from a five-star property projecting a ten-year lifecycle. The longer the expected service life, the higher the Martindale threshold should be.

Occupancy pattern. A hotel running at 90% year-round occupancy subjects its furniture to dramatically more use than a seasonal resort. A 24-hour city-centre hotel has different requirements from a boutique property with a primarily weekend leisure clientele.

Housekeeping regime. Ask what cleaning products are used on upholstered surfaces. Many hotels use alkaline-based multi-purpose cleaners across all surfaces. These are effective at removing soiling but can degrade the back-coating on topically treated fabrics over time. If the housekeeping contractor uses a standard alkaline spray on upholstered chairs, specify fabrics with a W or WS cleaning code, or confirm that the specific fabric survives the cleaning agent in use. Solvent-coded fabrics coded S require specialist in-situ cleaning and are not compatible with standard hotel housekeeping routines unless a specialist cleaning contract is in place.

Fire risk assessment category. Under the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005, the responsible person for the building must carry out a fire risk assessment and procure furnishings accordingly. For most hotel environments the relevant standard is BS 7176 Medium Hazard. Confirm the specific hazard category with the fire officer or the client’s fire safety consultant before specifying.

Project phasing. A hotel refurbished in phases over two to three years will need fabric from the same dye lot across phases, or a supplier able to replicate the colourway in future batches. This is the most frequently overlooked risk in large hotel projects and the one most likely to create a visible inconsistency across rooms completed at different times.

Martindale Thresholds by Room Type

No single Martindale figure applies across an entire hotel. Different areas have different use intensities and the fabric specification should reflect this. These thresholds are industry guidelines rather than formal standards and should be adjusted based on fibre type, construction, and project conditions. The following figures represent the minimum acceptable for each area in a standard UK hotel. For premium properties with longer refurbishment cycles, specify 20,000 to 30,000 rubs above each figure.

Hotel bedroom: desk chair, occasional chair, chaise. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs. Guest bedrooms receive regular but not continuous use. A single bedroom chair may be sat in by two guests per night at occupancy, which is low by contract standards but higher than a comparable chair in a private home. 40,000 rubs provides adequate headroom for a five-year refurbishment cycle at typical occupancy.

Hotel bedroom: headboard. Minimum 25,000 Martindale rubs. Headboards are subject to contact rather than seated abrasion. Hair products, moisturisers, and leaning are the primary wear factors. A fabric with good abrasion resistance at 25,000 rubs and a stain-resistant finish is appropriate for most hotel bedroom headboards. For boutique hotels expecting a longer first-refurbishment interval, specify 40,000 rubs. See the headboard section below for fire rating considerations specific to this application.

Restaurant and dining seating. Minimum 60,000 Martindale rubs. Restaurant seating in a busy hotel receives sustained use from breakfast through dinner service, often with multiple seatings per day. Food and beverage spills are frequent. The fabric must combine high abrasion resistance with good stain resistance and a cleaning code compatible with damp wiping between services. High-performance faux leather, often tested to 100,000 or more Martindale rubs or equivalent methods, is one of the most practical specifications for high-volume restaurant seating. For properties where aesthetics require a woven fabric, specify a minimum of 60,000 rubs with a stain-resistant finish.

Bar and lounge seating. Minimum 60,000 Martindale rubs. Bar seating receives the most demanding use of any upholstered surface in a hotel. Guests sit for extended periods, often in close-fitting clothing that generates sustained friction, and spills involving alcoholic beverages are common. For bar stools and high-seat bar chairs where the seating surface is under direct and continuous pressure, 80,000 rubs is a more defensible specification. Alcohol can also degrade certain topical fabric finishes, which is a reason to favour inherently resistant fabrics or faux leather in bar applications.

Hotel lobby seating. Minimum 60,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs depending on the lobby’s function. A lobby used primarily as a transit space with limited seating use can be specified at 60,000 rubs. A lobby that doubles as a working space, café, or meeting point and receives continuous use throughout the day requires 80,000 to 100,000 rubs. Lobby furniture is also highly visible and first-impressions critical, which means early visible wear is commercially significant regardless of actual structural failure.

Meeting room and event space seating. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs. Meeting room chairs receive intense but intermittent use. A conference chair may be occupied for six to eight hours during a full-day event and then unused for days. 40,000 rubs is sufficient for most meeting room applications. For chairs used in training rooms or learning environments with continuous daily occupation, specify 60,000 rubs.

Spa and wellness seating. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs, with additional consideration of moisture and skincare product resistance. Guests using spa facilities arrive in robes or swimwear, and skincare products including oils and lotions come into contact with seating surfaces. Specify fabrics whose cleaning code permits water-based cleaning and confirm compatibility with the specific products used in the spa. Faux leather is often the most practical choice for spa seating.

Fire Rating for Hotel Environments

The fire standard for most UK hotel upholstery is BS 7176 Medium Hazard. This standard incorporates BS 5852 Crib 5 and additionally requires the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak test to simulate cleaning. The specification document must state the specific foam used in the test, as BS 7176 is a composite test of fabric and filling combined, not of the fabric alone.

In practice, many fabrics that pass BS 5852 Crib 5 can be used to achieve BS 7176 Medium Hazard when combined with the appropriate filling, but BS 7176 is a broader composite standard with additional requirements including cigarette, match, and water-soak testing. The difference is also in the documentation: a BS 7176 certificate names the end-use environment and the foam specification, making it a more defensible document for a contract project. For hotel upholstery, specify BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 and request the full certificate naming the foam used in the test. Always request full test certificates rather than relying on generic compliance statements.

For mohair velvet that achieves a Crib 5 pass without topical treatment, confirm that the specific range has been independently tested to BS 5852 and request the test certificate. Where applicable, the certificate should also demonstrate compliance to BS 7176 Medium Hazard or indicate the foam configuration under which the test was conducted.

For curtains in hotel bedrooms and public areas, the applicable standard is BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, which is a separate standard from BS 5852 and governs vertically hanging fabrics. The two standards are not interchangeable. A Crib 5 certificate for an upholstery fabric does not qualify the same fabric for use as a contract curtain.

For full detail on the Crib 5 test, inherent versus topical certification, and BS 7176 hazard categories, see our complete guide to BS 5852 Crib 5.

The Hotel Cleaning Regime and What It Means for Fabric Specification

The housekeeping regime is the single most underspecified variable in hotel fabric selection. Fabrics are routinely tested in laboratory conditions, but hotel cleaning products introduce chemical stresses that standard abrasion tests do not replicate.

Standard hotel housekeeping uses multi-purpose alkaline cleaners for daily surface cleaning across guest rooms and public areas. These products, typically in the pH 8 to 11 range, are effective against the greases, body oils, and food residues that accumulate on upholstered surfaces. However, alkaline cleaners can progressively reduce the effectiveness of some topical FR treatments and may cause surface dulling or discolouration on certain pile fabrics. Cleaning codes indicate suitable cleaning methods but do not guarantee resistance to specific commercial cleaning chemicals.

The practical consequence for specification is as follows. A fabric with a topical Crib 5 treatment and a solvent-only cleaning code (S) is often incompatible with standard hotel housekeeping unless a specialist cleaning regime is in place. Cleaning codes indicate suitable methods but do not guarantee resistance to specific commercial cleaning chemicals. Prefer fabrics suitable for water-based cleaning (W or WS), or confirm compatibility with the actual cleaning products used by the hotel’s housekeeping contractor before finalising the specification. In most hotel projects, the simpler solution is to specify fabrics whose FR certification does not depend on topical treatment, or to select faux leather or other wipe-clean surfaces for high-contact areas.

Deep cleaning of upholstered furniture in hotels typically occurs two to four times per year, using specialist upholstery cleaning services. At this frequency, cumulative chemical exposure is significant over the course of a five or ten-year refurbishment cycle. When specifying a fabric for a long-lifecycle hotel project, ask the supplier to confirm the fabric’s resistance to the specific cleaning agents the hotel uses, and request confirmation in writing before finalising the specification.

Light Fastness in Hotel Environments

Hotel bedrooms present a wide range of light exposure conditions. A north-facing bedroom on the fourth floor of an urban hotel receives very little natural light. A south-facing suite on a high floor with full-height glazing may receive intense direct sunlight for much of the day. The same fabric specified throughout a hotel will perform very differently in these two environments.

For hotel bedrooms with standard glazing and mixed orientations, specify grade 5 where possible for upholstery fabrics and curtains. For south-facing bedrooms, suites with large glazed areas, and hotel lobbies with skylights, specify grade 6 or above. For glazed atriums and hotel exteriors or terraces, specify grade 7 to 8 and use specialist outdoor-rated fabrics.

Modern hotel glazing frequently incorporates low-e coating or UV-filtering film, which reduces UV transmission and can extend the effective service life of a fabric beyond what the grade alone would suggest. If the project specification includes high-performance glazing, factor this into the light fastness requirement but do not reduce the grade below 5 on that basis. Glazing specifications can change during a refurbishment and fabrics need to perform adequately under worst-case light conditions.

For full guidance on light fastness grades and what they mean by room orientation, see our guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.

Dye Lot Consistency Across Large Projects

A hotel project may specify the same fabric across 200 bedrooms, three dining areas, and a lobby, with installation spread over two to three years across multiple phases. Unless dye lot consistency is managed proactively, the rooms completed in phase one will have a subtly different colour from those completed in phase three.

Dye lot variation is a normal property of any dyed fabric. Even the same colourway produced by the same mill in the same month can show variation between rolls that is invisible side by side but visible when comparing a freshly installed chair with one installed eighteen months earlier. In a hotel where guests move between rooms, this variation is commercially significant.

The practical approach is as follows. At the point of specification, confirm with the supplier the minimum quantity that can be reserved from a single dye lot for the full project. For very large projects, request that the supplier weave the full quantity from the same yarn batch and production run where possible. Where this is not possible, establish the supplier’s tolerance standards for dye lot variation and ensure that comparison samples are retained from the first delivery for matching against subsequent deliveries.

For phased projects where new fabric cannot be reserved in advance, specify the colourway and confirm with the supplier that the range will remain in production for the duration of the project. Discontinued colourways mid-project are the most common cause of unresolvable dye lot inconsistency in hotel refurbishments.

Headboards

Hotel bedroom headboards present a specific specification challenge. The fire standard applicable to headboards is less universally agreed than for seating. BS 5852 is explicitly a test for upholstered seating. Whether a headboard, as a wall-mounted or freestanding fixed element, falls under the same seating standard or under a separate wall-covering or surface-finishing standard depends on how it is constructed and installed.

A headboard that is freestanding or attached to the bed frame and upholstered in the same way as a sofa is often treated as upholstered furniture and specified to BS 5852 Crib 5. A headboard that is fixed to the wall and forms part of the wall surface may be treated as a surface finish and be subject to BS 476 Part 7 or the surface spread of flame classification relevant to that building. Confirm with the fire officer and the hotel’s fire safety consultant which standard applies to the headboard construction specified in the project.

For Martindale specification of headboard fabric, 25,000 rubs is adequate for most hotel bedroom applications. The primary wear on a headboard is contact from hair, hair products, and leaning, rather than the sustained abrasion of seated upholstery. A stain-resistant finish is more valuable on a headboard than an elevated rub count.

Curtains in Hotel Bedrooms and Public Areas

Contract curtain fabrics in hotel bedrooms must meet BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. This is a separate standard from the upholstery fire standards and governs vertically hanging fabrics. The test involves a vertical flame applied to the hanging fabric and measures flame spread and post-flame smouldering. Type B is the standard for most hotel applications. Type C applies to NHS and healthcare environments with more frequent laundering requirements.

Most decorative curtain fabrics require topical treatment to meet BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. Some inherently fire-resistant fabrics, including certain Trevira CS constructions, meet the standard without treatment. The treatment process for curtains involves impregnation or dipping rather than back-coating, and affects different fabric types differently. Sheer and lightweight fabrics are particularly susceptible to visible changes after treatment. Confirm the suitability of the specific fabric for curtain FR treatment with the supplier before specifying.

For hotel bedrooms with south or west-facing windows, curtain light fastness requires the same attention as upholstery. A curtain fabric that faces direct afternoon sun will fade at the fold lines before the body of the fabric shows colour change, creating an irregular striped effect that is difficult to remedy without full replacement. Specify grade 6 or above for curtain fabrics in hotel bedrooms with significant sun exposure.

Kothea Fabrics for Hotel Specification

Mohair velvet from Kothea achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 across the active mohair ranges and carries independently certified Crib 5 passes achieved without topical treatment on the ranges tested. The combination of high durability and FR certification without treatment makes mohair velvet suitable for hotel bedroom seating, lobby furniture, restaurant seating at the appropriate rub count, and bar seating at the higher end of the range.

Faux Leather 3 from Kothea achieves in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating and a wipe-clean surface. Its cleaning code is compatible with water-based hotel housekeeping products. It is suitable for restaurant seating, bar seating, spa seating, headboards, and wall panelling in hotel environments where a wipe-clean surface is required. The 140 cm width and 20-plus colourways make it practical across multiple areas within a single project.

Recline Linen from Kothea achieves 80,000 Martindale rubs and is suitable for hotel bedroom occasional chairs and low-use contract seating where a natural linen aesthetic is specified. Fire treatment is required for contract use.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, cleaning codes, and light fastness grades, see the mohair velvet upholstery page, the faux leather upholstery page, and the upholstery linen page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Martindale rub count do I need for hotel upholstery?

For hotel bedroom chairs and occasional seating, specify a minimum of 40,000 Martindale rubs. For restaurant and bar seating, specify a minimum of 60,000 rubs, with 80,000 rubs preferred for high-volume bar seating. For hotel lobby seating in continuous use throughout the day, specify 80,000 to 100,000 rubs. For hotel bedroom headboards, 25,000 rubs is the minimum with a stain-resistant finish. These figures are minimums for a standard five-year refurbishment cycle. For premium properties with a ten-year cycle, add 20,000 to 30,000 rubs to each threshold. For full guidance on the Martindale rub test and how rub counts translate to classification, see our Martindale rub test guide.

What fire standard applies to hotel upholstery in the UK?

For most UK hotel environments, the applicable standard is BS 7176 Medium Hazard, which incorporates BS 5852 Crib 5 plus the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak stage. The certificate must document the specific foam used in the test, as BS 7176 is a composite test of fabric and filling together. Specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 provides a more complete and defensible specification for contract hotel projects. Confirm the specific hazard category with the fire officer for the project. For curtains in hotel bedrooms, the applicable standard is BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, which is a separate standard from BS 5852.

Can velvet be used in hotel bedrooms?

Yes. Mohair velvet with a Martindale rub count of 80,000 or above and an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment is suitable for hotel bedroom seating. The practical limitation is the cleaning code. Most mohair velvet is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry cleaning only, which is not compatible with standard hotel housekeeping routines that use water-based or alkaline cleaners. If the hotel’s housekeeping contractor applies water-based products to upholstered surfaces as routine, a fabric coded W or WS should be specified instead, or a specialist cleaning contract for velvet surfaces must be established in advance.

What is the difference between BS 5852 Crib 5 and BS 7176 for hotel furniture?

BS 5852 Crib 5 is the test method for ignition source 5. BS 7176 is the specification standard for non-domestic upholstered seating that references BS 5852 and additionally requires the cigarette and match stages, the water-soak procedure, and documentation of the specific end-use environment and foam configuration. Similar FR approaches are often used to meet both standards, but BS 7176 certification depends on the full upholstery system including the filling, not the fabric alone. A BS 7176 Medium Hazard certificate is the correct standard to specify for most UK hospitality environments.

How do I manage dye lot consistency on a phased hotel project?

Reserve the full project quantity from a single dye lot at the point of specification, or request that the supplier weave the full quantity from the same yarn batch in a single production run. For projects where this is not possible, retain comparison samples from the first delivery and establish the supplier’s tolerance standards for dye lot variation. For phased projects with undetermined future phases, confirm that the colourway will remain in production for the duration of the project. Discontinued colourways mid-project are the most common source of unresolvable dye lot inconsistency in hotel refurbishments.

Is faux leather suitable for hotel restaurant seating?

Yes. Faux leather is one of the most practical fabrics for hotel restaurant seating. A high-specification PVC faux leather achieving in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating and a wipe-clean surface is compatible with the cleaning regimes used between restaurant services, resists food and beverage spills, and requires no specialist cleaning contract. The cleaning code of W or WS makes it straightforward for housekeeping staff to maintain. The aesthetic limitation is that faux leather does not replicate the warmth and texture of natural upholstery fabrics, which may not suit the positioning of certain hotel restaurants.

What light fastness grade do I need for hotel bedroom curtains?

For hotel bedroom curtains in rooms with mixed orientations, specify a minimum of ISO 105-B02 grade 5. For south or west-facing bedrooms, suites with large glazed areas, or any bedroom where afternoon sun falls directly on the curtain face, specify grade 6 or above. Curtain fabrics are particularly vulnerable to fading at fold lines, which creates an irregular striped effect before the body of the fabric shows colour change. This is commercially significant in a hotel where curtains are highly visible to guests. For full guidance on light fastness grades and room orientation, see our light fastness guide.

Does hotel housekeeping damage upholstery fabric?

Standard hotel housekeeping cleaning products, typically alkaline-based multi-purpose cleaners, can degrade topical FR treatments on upholstery fabrics over time and may cause surface dulling on certain pile fabrics if applied incorrectly. The risk is greatest with fabrics that have a solvent-only cleaning code (S), as water-based products applied by housekeeping staff will eventually compromise both the fabric surface and any chemical FR coating. To avoid this, specify fabrics with a W or WS cleaning code for hotel bedroom and public area upholstery, or ensure that a specialist cleaning contract is in place for any S-coded fabric specified in the project.

Download the Hotel Fabric Specification Checklist (PDF) — a printable one-page reference covering Martindale thresholds by room type, fire compliance, cleaning compatibility, dye lot strategy, and documentation sign-off.

For hotel and hospitality fabric specification, see our hotel fabric specification guide.

For mohair velvet thermal and moisture management properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide. For healthcare fabric specification, see our healthcare fabric guide. For fabric decisions at each RIBA Plan of Work stage, see our RIBA Plan of Work fabric guide.

For the Building Safety Act 2022 and fabric documentation requirements in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act and fabric specification guide.

For fabric specification for hotel terraces and semi-outdoor hospitality spaces, see our outdoor terrace fabric specification guide.

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5 April 202611 April 2026

Velvet Types Compared: Mohair, Cotton, Silk, Linen and Synthetic

Velvet Types Compared: A Complete Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers and Architects

Most durable natural velvet: Mohair — 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs
Contract fire standard: BS 5852 Crib 5 — inherent in correctly certified mohair; topical treatment required for cotton, linen, and silk
Cleaning code: S (solvent only) for most natural velvets; W or WS for synthetic
Decorative use only: Silk velvet and cashmere velvet — not suitable for upholstery in regular use

Velvet is a construction method, not a fibre. A velvet fabric is produced by weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously with threads connecting them, then cutting those threads to create an upstanding pile. That pile can be made from almost any fibre, and the fibre is the primary determinant of specification performance — durability, fire rating, cleaning requirements, light fastness, and cost — alongside construction, pile density, and backing. Choosing between velvet types on aesthetic grounds alone is the most common specification error in interior design.

This guide compares the principal velvet types available to specifiers in the UK market across every dimension relevant to a professional specification. For background on the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale, and fabric care symbols and cleaning codes.

How Velvet Is Made

Understanding the construction helps explain why fibre choice matters so much in velvet. In warp pile velvet, the pile yarns run along the length of the fabric and are woven over wires or rods. When the rods are withdrawn and the loops cut, a cut pile is formed. In double-cloth velvet, two fabrics are woven face to face simultaneously, joined by pile threads that are then cut to separate them and create pile on both faces. The resulting fabric has a distinct face and back, with the pile standing perpendicular to the base cloth.

The density and height of the pile, the twist of the pile yarn, and the weight and construction of the base cloth all affect performance. But the most fundamental variable is the fibre from which the pile is made.

Mohair Velvet

Fibre origin: Hair of the Angora goat, primarily from South Africa and Turkey. South Africa produces more than half of the world’s mohair supply and is the global benchmark for quality. A long-staple, smooth, lustrous fibre with exceptional tensile strength. For background on South African mohair production and the Responsible Mohair Standard, see Mohair South Africa.

Martindale rub count: 80,000 to 100,000 and above, depending on construction and pile density. Mohair velvet achieves the highest rub counts of any natural-fibre velvet and is the most reliably suitable natural-fibre velvet for heavy contract use. Kothea’s mohair velvet ranges are independently tested and achieve between 80,000 and 100,000 Martindale rubs across the active collections.

Fire rating: Mohair fibre, like wool, has natural flame-resistant properties arising from its high protein content. A correctly woven and constructed mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not universal across all mohair velvets and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric. This is the single most commercially significant advantage of a correctly certified mohair velvet over other natural-fibre velvets.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-cleaning solvent only. Water applied to mohair velvet can cause watermarks and pile matting. For minor fresh stains, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response. For full cleaning guidance see our post on cleaning and maintaining mohair velvet.

Light fastness: ISO 105-B02 grade 4 to 5 in light colourways and grade 5 to 6 in dark colourways. Suitable for most residential environments. For south-facing rooms, specify dark colourways or confirm the specific colourway grade with the supplier.

Pile appearance: High lustre with a characteristic directional sheen. The pile reflects light differently depending on viewing angle and pile direction, producing the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery velvet. The sheen is a natural property of the mohair fibre and cannot be replicated by cotton or synthetic alternatives.

Suitable applications: Heavy contract upholstery including hotel seating, restaurant banquettes, theatre and hospitality seating, residential sofas and chairs, headboards, cushions, and curtains. The combination of inherent Crib 5 and high Martindale makes it the standard against which all other upholstery velvets are measured in the UK contract market.

Not recommended for: High-light environments without confirming the colourway grade. Outdoor or semi-outdoor use. Applications requiring machine washing.

Cost position: Premium. The Angora goat produces a limited annual clip, and the fibre must be woven to a high pile density to achieve the rub counts associated with contract performance. The cost is justified by the specification advantage of inherent Crib 5 and the durability of the fabric in use.

Cotton Velvet

Fibre origin: Cotton plant. A short-staple natural cellulose fibre, widely grown and relatively inexpensive.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction, pile density, and backing. Cotton velvet varies enormously in quality. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet can achieve sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use. A thin, loosely woven cotton velvet intended for curtains or cushions may achieve 10,000 rubs or fewer. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure for the range you are specifying.

Fire rating: Topical treatment required. Cotton fibre does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently. A back-coating of flame-retardant chemicals must be applied before use in contract environments. The treatment process can affect the appearance and handle of the pile if not applied correctly, and specialist treatment houses experienced with velvet pile should be used. The Crib 5 certification achieved through topical treatment is subject to degradation through repeated cleaning. See our complete guide to Crib 5 for detail on inherent versus topical certification. For the risk of dye colour change after FR treatment, particularly on cotton with reactive dyes, see our dye types and FR treatment guide.

Cleaning code: S or WS depending on the specific range. Confirm the cleaning code on the fabric data sheet before specifying. Cotton velvet treated with a back-coating for Crib 5 may require solvent-only cleaning to avoid degrading the treatment.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 typically with standard reactive dyes. Broadly comparable to mohair at equivalent price points. Cotton velvet takes dye well and can achieve good colour depth.

Pile appearance: Matte to semi-matte. Cotton pile lacks the lustre of mohair and does not produce the same directional sheen. The aesthetic is warmer and less formal than mohair, which suits some residential briefs.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards. Suitable for general domestic and light contract use when correctly specified and treated. Not the first choice for heavy contract environments where the additional cost and complexity of topical treatment, re-treatment requirements, and lower Martindale thresholds make mohair velvet a more defensible specification.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use without FR treatment and independent testing. High-humidity environments. Applications where the FR certification must survive repeated cleaning without re-treatment.

Cost position: Mid-range. Cotton velvet is typically less expensive than mohair at equivalent pile weights but requires the additional cost of FR treatment for contract use, which narrows the price difference in contract projects.

Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Cocoon of the silkworm Bombyx mori. Silk is a continuous filament natural protein fibre of exceptional fineness and lustre.

Martindale rub count: Below 15,000 in most cases. Natural silk is the weakest of the natural-fibre velvets in abrasion terms. The fineness of the filament that produces silk’s extraordinary lustre is also the source of its vulnerability to mechanical wear. Silk velvet is decorative fabric, not upholstery fabric in the contract sense of the word.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is possible for domestic standards but silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a full Crib 5 pass for contract use. The coating process can damage the silk pile irreversibly. Silk velvet should not be specified for contract environments requiring BS 5852 Crib 5 certification unless the specific range has been independently tested and certified.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only. Silk is highly water-sensitive. Water will cause permanent watermarking and potentially alter the pile structure.

Light fastness: Grade 2 to 4 typically. Silk is the most photosensitive of the natural upholstery fibres. The dyes used on silk are chemically susceptible to UV degradation. Silk velvet should not be used in rooms with significant natural light exposure and should not be used on curtains where direct sunlight will fall on the fabric face. See our light fastness guide for full context.

Pile appearance: The most lustrous of all velvet pile types. Silk produces an extraordinary depth of sheen that no other fibre can replicate. The visual effect is incomparable when correctly lit in a low-light residential interior.

Suitable applications: Decorative cushions, occasional chairs in low-use residential rooms, curtains in low-light environments, bed throws. Silk velvet is the choice where aesthetic impact is the sole requirement and durability, fire rating, and light fastness are secondary.

Not recommended for: Any contract application. South-facing rooms. Any room with significant footfall or regular seating use. Headboards where regular contact with hair products will degrade the pile.

Cost position: High to very high. Silk is the most expensive natural fibre and the pile density required for velvet construction multiplies the material cost significantly. Quality varies considerably between suppliers.

Linen Velvet

Fibre origin: Flax plant. Linen is a bast fibre extracted from the stalk of the flax plant. It is a strong, textural natural cellulose fibre with a characteristic irregularity of surface.

Martindale rub count: 15,000 to 25,000 typically for linen velvet, though construction varies. Kothea’s Linen Velvet achieves 20,000 Martindale rubs with a SI 1324 cigarette test pass. Linen velvet occupies the domestic to light contract range.

Fire rating: Not inherently Crib 5. Linen is a natural fibre with moderate fire resistance but does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 without treatment or interliner. For contract use, FR treatment or a Schedule 3 interliner is required. Fabrics containing at least 75% natural fibres by weight may use a Schedule 3 interliner as an alternative to chemical treatment for some standards. Confirm the specific requirement with the relevant authority for the project environment.

Cleaning code: S or WS. Confirm on the data sheet. Linen is water-sensitive in pile form and wet cleaning can cause shrinkage and pile distortion.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard reactive dyes. Comparable to cotton velvet.

Pile appearance: Matte. Linen velvet has a distinctly textural, natural surface character very different from the smooth reflective pile of mohair or silk. The pile is less uniform than mohair or cotton and the fibre’s natural irregularity is visible in the surface of the cloth. This quality is valued in certain residential briefs where a craft or natural aesthetic is sought.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, curtains, cushions, decorative headboards. A strong choice for residential briefs requiring a natural, relaxed aesthetic with moderate durability.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. High-humidity environments. Applications where uniformity of pile surface is required.

Cost position: Mid-range. Linen velvet is typically comparable in price to cotton velvet at equivalent construction weights.

Cashmere and Cashmere-Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Undercoat of the Himalayan Cashmere goat. Cashmere is one of the finest natural fibres available, characterised by exceptional softness and warmth retention.

Martindale rub count: Low. Cashmere fibre is too fine and too short-staple to produce velvet with meaningful abrasion resistance for upholstery use. Cashmere velvet, and cashmere-silk velvet blends, are decorative fabrics. Kothea’s Cashmere Silk Velvet is specified for curtains only.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is technically possible but the handle and appearance of cashmere velvet are typically altered by the coating process. Cashmere velvet cannot be reliably specified for contract upholstery environments requiring Crib 5 certification.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only.

Light fastness: Moderate. Cashmere is a protein fibre and susceptible to UV degradation. Not recommended for high-light environments.

Pile appearance: Extraordinarily soft handle with a subtle, fine lustre. The pile texture is unlike any other velvet and is immediately identifiable by touch. Cashmere-silk blends add luminosity to the characteristic cashmere warmth.

Suitable applications: Curtains, decorative cushions, bed throws, accent pieces in low-use residential rooms. Cashmere velvet is the choice where tactile experience is the primary specification criterion.

Not recommended for: Upholstery of any kind in regular use. Contract environments. Any application where durability or fire certification is required.

Cost position: Very high. Cashmere velvet is among the most expensive interior fabrics available.

Synthetic Velvet: Trevira CS and Polyester

Fibre origin: Petrochemical derivatives. Trevira CS is a branded inherently fire-retardant polyester fibre manufactured in Germany. Standard polyester velvet uses conventional polyester yarn.

Martindale rub count: High. Synthetic velvet typically achieves 50,000 to 150,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction. Synthetic fibres are inherently more resistant to mechanical abrasion than natural fibres of equivalent weight.

Fire rating: Trevira CS is inherently flame-retardant. The flame retardancy is a permanent property of the polyester polymer and survives cleaning. Standard polyester velvet requires topical treatment and may or may not achieve a full Crib 5 pass depending on construction. Always confirm the specific test result and certification for any synthetic velvet before specifying for contract use.

Cleaning code: W or WS typically. Synthetic fibres are more tolerant of water-based cleaning than natural fibres. Many synthetic velvets can be spot-cleaned with water-based upholstery cleaners.

Light fastness: Grade 6 to 7 typically. Synthetic fibres are inherently more UV-resistant than natural fibres. Solution-dyed synthetic velvet, where the colour is incorporated into the fibre during extrusion, achieves the highest light fastness ratings available in velvet form.

Pile appearance: Varies considerably by construction. High-quality synthetic velvet can closely approximate the appearance of natural velvet. Lower-quality synthetic velvet has a flatter, more uniform pile with less depth. The distinguishing quality of natural-fibre velvets, particularly mohair, is visible to an experienced eye in showroom conditions.

Suitable applications: Contract upholstery where fire certification and durability are the primary requirements. Healthcare environments. Transport seating. Applications where machine cleanability or high-frequency cleaning is required.

Not recommended for: Ultra-luxury residential briefs where natural fibre handle and appearance are client requirements. Marine environments without confirming IMO compliance separately.

Cost position: Lower to mid-range. Synthetic velvet is less expensive than mohair at equivalent construction weights, though high-specification Trevira CS velvet from major European mills approaches mohair pricing.

Alpaca Velvet

Fibre origin: Fleece of the South American alpaca. Alpaca is a protein fibre closely related to wool, with a finer and softer handle than most sheep’s wool and a moderate natural lustre.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 40,000 typically, depending on construction. Alpaca velvet performs similarly to a well-constructed wool velvet. It is suitable for domestic and light contract use but does not approach the rub counts achievable with mohair.

Fire rating: Alpaca is a natural protein fibre and, like wool and mohair, has moderate inherent fire resistance. However, alpaca velvet cannot be assumed to pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently without specific independent testing. Do not specify alpaca velvet for contract use on the basis of fibre type alone. Request the test certificate from the supplier.

Cleaning code: S typically. Confirm with the supplier.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard acid dyes. Comparable to mohair.

Pile appearance: Soft and slightly matte with a gentle natural lustre. Less directional sheen than mohair. The pile has a warmth of character distinct from both mohair and cotton.

Suitable applications: Luxury residential upholstery, cushions, and occasional seating. Alpaca velvet is a niche choice for residential briefs where natural fibre and unusual character are valued over contract performance.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. Applications where inherent Crib 5 certification is required.

Cost position: High. Alpaca fibre is less widely produced than mohair or cotton and carries a premium.

Specification Summary by Application

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality environments, mohair velvet with an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment, and a rub count of 80,000 or above, is the most reliable natural-fibre specification. Synthetic Trevira CS velvet is the alternative where budget or client preference for machine-cleanable fabric applies.

For residential upholstery in moderate-use rooms, cotton velvet at 25,000 to 40,000 Martindale rubs is a sound mid-range specification. Linen velvet at 20,000 rubs suits briefs requiring a natural textural aesthetic.

For decorative applications, cushions, and occasional chairs in low-use rooms, silk velvet, cashmere velvet, or alpaca velvet are appropriate where budget allows and the client accepts the care requirements.

For south-facing rooms or high-light environments, confirm the specific ISO 105-B02 grade before specifying any velvet. Mohair in dark colourways, synthetic velvet, and solution-dyed fabrics offer the most reliable light fastness performance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most durable velvet for contract upholstery?

Mohair velvet is the most durable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery, achieving Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 depending on construction. It also carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 fire rating without topical treatment, making it the only natural-fibre velvet that meets both the durability and fire certification requirements of most UK contract environments without additional cost or treatment. High-specification synthetic velvet using Trevira CS fibre can achieve comparable or higher rub counts and also carries inherent fire resistance, at a lower cost but with a different aesthetic.

What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?

Mohair velvet is made from the hair of the Angora goat and achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating. Cotton velvet is made from cotton fibre and typically achieves 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, with no inherent Crib 5 rating. Cotton velvet requires topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair velvet has a characteristic directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate. Cotton velvet is less expensive but requires additional investment in fire treatment for contract projects, narrowing the price advantage in practice.

Can silk velvet be used for upholstery?

Silk velvet is not suitable for upholstery in regular use. It typically achieves fewer than 15,000 Martindale rubs, which places it in the decorative category unsuitable for seating. Silk is also highly photosensitive, with a light fastness grade of 2 to 4, meaning it will fade in rooms with natural light exposure. Silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification for contract use. It is appropriate for decorative cushions, curtains in low-light environments, and occasional chairs in rooms with very limited use.

Does mohair velvet have an inherent Crib 5 fire rating?

Mohair fibre has natural flame-resistant properties and a correctly woven mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not guaranteed for all mohair velvets by fibre type alone and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric. This distinguishes correctly certified mohair velvet from cotton, linen, and silk velvets, all of which require topical treatment to achieve Crib 5. Always request the independent test certificate from the supplier before specifying for contract use.

What velvet is best for south-facing rooms?

For south-facing rooms, specify velvet with an ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade of at least 6. Mohair velvet in dark colourways achieves grade 5 to 6. Synthetic velvet and solution-dyed fabrics typically achieve grade 6 to 7. Silk velvet and cashmere velvet should not be specified for south-facing rooms. Cotton and linen velvet achieve grade 4 to 5, which is borderline for sustained south-facing exposure. Always confirm the specific grade with the supplier for the colourway being ordered, as light fastness varies between colourways within the same range.

What is the difference between cut pile velvet and uncut pile velvet?

In cut pile velvet the pile loops are cut during production, producing upstanding individual fibres that create the characteristic dense, soft surface. In uncut pile or loop pile velvet the loops remain intact, producing a harder, more textural surface. Most upholstery velvet is cut pile. Some decorative velvets combine cut and uncut areas to create pattern, known as ciselé or voided velvet. For upholstery specification, cut pile velvet is the standard choice. Uncut or loop pile velvet may be specified where a more durable surface texture is required as the intact loops resist abrasion more effectively than cut pile.

How do I clean velvet upholstery without damaging the pile?

The cleaning method depends on the cleaning code assigned to the specific fabric. Most velvet upholstery is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry-cleaning agents only. Water applied to an S-coded velvet can cause watermarks and permanent pile distortion. Always work in the direction of the pile when applying any cleaning agent or brushing. For minor fresh stains on mohair velvet, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response. Serious staining should always be referred to a specialist dry cleaner experienced with velvet upholstery.

Is linen velvet suitable for contract upholstery?

Linen velvet is suitable for light contract use, subject to FR treatment and confirmation of the Martindale rub count for the specific range. A well-constructed linen velvet at 20,000 Martindale rubs meets the minimum threshold for general contract use. However, linen velvet does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently and requires topical treatment or an appropriate interliner for contract environments. For heavy contract use requiring 40,000 rubs or above and full Crib 5 certification, mohair velvet or synthetic velvet are more appropriate specifications.

For the tactile properties of each velvet type and how hand differs between fibres, see our fabric hand and tactile properties guide.

For velvet specification in hotel and hospitality projects, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For velvet on walls and headboards, see our wall panels and headboards guide.

Kothea offers mohair velvet, linen velvet, and cashmere silk velvet from its active range. To For when velvet is the wrong choice for a project, see our when not to use velvet guide. For pilling resistance by velvet type, see our pilling resistance guide. For mohair thermal properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, and light fastness grades by range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page and the silks page.

For guidance on using velvet as an acoustic treatment in home studios and music rooms, see our fabric for home studio acoustics guide.

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BS 5852 Crib 5: Complete Guide for Upholstery Specification

Brown faux leather chair from April Hamilton

BS 5852 Crib 5: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers

BS 5852 Crib 5 is the fire safety standard required for most contract upholstery in the United Kingdom. If you are specifying fabric for a hotel, restaurant, bar, office, healthcare environment, or any other commercial interior, Crib 5 compliance is the baseline expectation. This guide explains what the standard is, how the test works, the critical difference between inherent and topical certification, and how to specify correctly. For dye types and FR treatment compatibility — which dyes cause fading after treatment — see our dye types and FR treatment guide. For colour fastness and crocking specification, see our colour fastness and crocking guide. For hotel and hospitality projects see our hotel fabric specification guide. For wall panel and headboard applications, a different standard applies: see our guide to fabric for wall panels and headboards.For projects involving yachts or commercial vessels, a separate framework applies: see our guide to IMO marine fire standards for yacht interiors.

What Crib 5 Is

Crib 5 is shorthand for BS 5852 Ignition Source 5. BS 5852, titled Methods of Test for Assessment of the Ignitability of Upholstered Seating, is the British Standard that defines how upholstered furniture materials must behave when exposed to ignition sources of increasing intensity. The standard defines eight ignition source levels. The three that matter most in practice are Source 0 (a smouldering cigarette), Source 1 (a small flame equivalent to a lit match), and Source 5, which is the Crib 5 test.

The name comes from the wooden structure used as the ignition source. A crib is a small lattice of dry timber pieces, stacked five tiers high, weighing approximately 17 grams. The number 5 refers to the number of tiers. The crib is placed on the upholstery assembly and ignited. The test is designed to simulate an ignition event more intense than a match flame, comparable to a burning pile of paper, and is the realistic minimum for contract environments where furniture may be exposed to more severe ignition risks than a smouldering cigarette.

The Three-Stage Test

BS 5852 Crib 5 is not a single test in isolation. To achieve a Crib 5 certification, a fabric must first pass both the cigarette test (Source 0) and the match test (Source 1). Only materials that pass both of these lower-level tests are eligible to proceed to the Crib 5 stage. A material that fails the cigarette or match test cannot be certified to Crib 5 regardless of how it performs under the wooden crib.

For more detail on the cigarette and match stages of BS 5852, see our post on the cigarette and match tests.

In the cigarette test, a smouldering cigarette is placed in the crease between the seat and back of the upholstered test rig. The material must show no ignition and no progressive smouldering.

In the match test, a small burner flame is held against the upholstery for 20 seconds. The material must self-extinguish immediately and show no spread of flame.

In the Crib 5 test, the lit wooden crib is placed on the upholstered assembly. All flaming must cease within 10 minutes. The fire must not spread beyond defined limits or penetrate the filling material. There must be no self-sustaining smouldering after the crib has burned out.

The Composite Nature of the Test

This is the point most frequently misunderstood in specification. BS 5852 does not test the fabric in isolation. It tests the full composite assembly: the fabric cover, the foam or filling, and any interliner, all as they would be used together in the finished piece of furniture.

A fabric that achieves Crib 5 certification in one configuration with a specific foam may not achieve it when applied over a different foam. A certificate from a fabric supplier confirms the fabric was tested in a specific configuration. If the foam or filling used in your project differs from the foam used in the test, the certificate may not be valid for your application.

Always confirm with your fabric supplier the exact configuration under which the Crib 5 test was conducted, including the foam specification, before relying on that certificate for a contract project.

Inherent Versus Topical Certification

The single most important distinction in specifying a Crib 5 fabric is whether the certification is inherent or achieved through topical treatment. The practical consequences are significant.

Inherent Crib 5 means the fire resistance is a property of the fibre itself. The yarn from which the fabric is woven is non-combustible or self-extinguishing by its nature, independent of any chemical application. Mohair velvet is the primary example in the Kothea range. Mohair fibre is inherently resistant to ignition, and a correctly woven mohair velvet carries an inherent Crib 5 pass without any treatment being applied. The certification is permanent, unaffected by cleaning, does not alter the handle or surface appearance of the fabric, and carries no additional cost for FR treatment.

Topical or back-coated treatment is applied to a fabric that is not inherently fire resistant. The fabric passes through a bath of fire-retardant chemicals, which are bonded to the reverse of the fabric through a coating process. The resulting fabric can achieve a Crib 5 pass, but with three important caveats.

First, the BS 5852 standard requires a water-soak test as part of full certification. The fabric is soaked in water to simulate cleaning and then retested. Many fabrics that pass the dry Crib 5 test fail after the water-soak stage. An indicative test without the water-soak is not a complete Crib 5 certificate. Do not rely on an indicative certificate for contract projects without confirming with the client and fire officer that it is acceptable.

Second, the coating process can affect the appearance and handle of certain fabrics. Pile fabrics such as velvets are particularly susceptible. Immersion or back-coating can flatten the pile, stiffen the handle, or leave residue on the face of the fabric. This is one of the reasons mohair velvet with an inherent pass is preferable for contract use over cotton or linen velvet that requires treatment.

Third, a topically treated fabric may need re-treatment if cleaned by a method that degrades the coating. Professional cleaning must use methods compatible with the treatment. Confirm the appropriate cleaning regime with the treatment provider before specifying.

For a detailed guide to the treatment process and the difference between Crib 5 and BS 7176, see our post on FR treatment, BS 7176, and the Crib 5 test.

BS 7176 and Hazard Categories

BS 7176, Specification for Resistance to Ignition of Upholstered Furniture for Non-Domestic Seating, extends the BS 5852 framework by categorising different commercial environments into hazard levels and specifying the appropriate ignition source requirement for each.

Low hazard covers environments such as offices. Medium hazard covers hotels, theatres, and healthcare waiting areas. High and extreme hazard cover environments such as prisons, secure psychiatric units, and offshore installations.

For most hospitality and commercial interiors the relevant category is Medium Hazard, and the standard associated with it is effectively Crib 5. The practical difference between specifying to BS 5852 Crib 5 and specifying to BS 7176 Medium Hazard is that BS 7176 includes the water-soak stage explicitly and requires the certificate to document the specific end-use environment and foam specification. In complex or sensitive projects, specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 gives a more complete and defensible specification. The treatment applied to achieve both is the same.

When Crib 7 Is Required

Crib 7 follows the same principle as Crib 5 but uses a larger wooden crib, seven tiers high, producing a more intense ignition source. It is required in high and extreme hazard environments: primarily prisons, secure psychiatric units, and some offshore or industrial installations. The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 assigns responsibility for determining the appropriate hazard category to the responsible person managing the building, not to the designer or fabric supplier. If a project falls into a high hazard category, engage a specialist fire safety consultant before specifying.

Crib 5 fabric, when combined with an appropriate FR foam, can sometimes achieve a Crib 7 pass as a composite. This must be verified by testing and documented with the relevant certificate. Do not assume that a Crib 5 fabric will achieve Crib 7 without independent testing.

For a full explanation of Crib 7 and when it applies, see our post on what is Crib 7.

Curtain Fabrics and the Different Standard

BS 5852 applies to upholstery. Curtain fabrics are governed by a separate standard, BS 5867, which tests vertical hanging fabrics rather than upholstered composites. The two standards are not interchangeable. A curtain fabric certified to BS 5867 is not automatically suitable for upholstery use, and a Crib 5 certified upholstery fabric is not automatically certified for use as a curtain in a contract environment. Always confirm the correct standard for the specific application before specifying.

Kothea Fabrics and Crib 5

Mohair velvet from Kothea carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 pass across all active mohair velvet ranges. The inherent certification means no treatment is required, no additional cost is incurred, the certification survives cleaning, and the handle and surface of the fabric are unaffected. The primary Mohair Velvet range achieves 100,000 Martindale rubs alongside its inherent Crib 5 certification, combining contract-grade durability with the highest fire safety standard for most commercial projects.

Faux Leather 3 from Kothea carries a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification alongside a Martindale rub count in excess of 200,000, making it among the most specification-complete fabrics available for severe contract environments including transport seating, healthcare, and hospitality.

Cotton velvet requires topical treatment to achieve a Crib 5 pass and is not supplied by Kothea with an inherent certification.

How to Specify Correctly

State the standard in full. Ask for BS 5852 Ignition Source 5 (Crib 5), not just Crib 5. The full reference removes ambiguity.

Confirm inherent or topical. Ask the supplier explicitly whether the certification is inherent to the fibre or achieved through topical treatment. If topical, ask whether the full water-soak test was completed and request the certificate confirming it.

Confirm the composite configuration. Ask which foam was used in the test. If your project uses a different foam, the certificate may not cover your specific application.

Use a UKAS-accredited treatment house. If your project requires a fabric to be treated, specify that treatment must be carried out by a UKAS-accredited company. This ensures the process is correctly executed and independently verifiable.

Request the full test certificate. An indicative result is not a certificate. For contract projects, require the independent test certificate before the fabric is upholstered.

Consider BS 7176 for complex environments. For hotel bedrooms, healthcare, or any environment where the hazard category is uncertain, specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than Crib 5 alone provides a more defensible specification at no additional treatment cost.

Crib 7: The Standard Above Crib 5

Crib 7 is the ignition source immediately above Crib 5 in the BS 5852 series. Where Crib 5 uses a wooden crib of approximately 17 grams with a specific timber species and construction, Crib 7 uses a larger and more severe crib of approximately 126 grams. The test assembly is the same — a seat and back pad covered in the fabric being tested — but the larger ignition source represents a significantly more demanding fire scenario.

Crib 7 is not widely required in mainstream UK contract specification. The environments where it is applicable include some prison and secure accommodation furniture, certain defence and government procurement specifications, and some highly specific public sector contracts where the risk assessment has determined that the standard Crib 5 level of protection is insufficient. It is also referenced in some transport seating specifications, though IMO standards apply in the marine context rather than BS 5852.

For most hotel, restaurant, office, and residential contract interiors, Crib 5 is the correct and sufficient standard. Specifiers who encounter a Crib 7 requirement should confirm with the project’s fire risk assessor whether it is genuinely required for the specific application, as it is a materially more demanding test and limits the fabric options available considerably. Very few standard upholstery fabrics carry a certified Crib 7 pass. Purpose-made fire-retardant fabrics with specialist construction and treatment are typically required.

If your project has a Crib 7 requirement, contact us directly to discuss suitable fabric options for the specific application.

For surface spread of flame requirements for wall and ceiling linings — a separate standard from Crib 5 — see our BS 476 Part 7 guide.

For fabric sustainability certifications including GOTS and Oeko-Tex, see our fabric sustainability certifications guide. For healthcare fire standards including BS 7176, see our healthcare fabric guide.

For how the Building Safety Act 2022 affects fabric fire certification documentation in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act and fabric specification guide.

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20 November 2015

Faux Leather Upholstery

Faux (or fake) Leather offers a great alterantive to leather. With Martindale rubs of over 100,000 this is a very safe choice for high use contract areas. It’s usually made of a pure cotton basecloth with a poly-cotton visible coating. There are many other animal skins that are mimiced in the same way and in many cases the finishes are convincing.

But why not just use leather?

Much leather production has now moved away from the West to areas with less stringent environmental laws and lower wage rates. This is where the problem lies.

Chromium based compounds are used in the tanning and curing process of real leather. They are thought to be carcinogenic as, in some European tanning factories, cancer rates were found to be up to 50% higher in workers than in the population as a whole. Furthermore there were higher incidences of Leukemia in children living in areas near the tanneries. Environmental problems are exacerbated by the siting of factories next to rivers; the significant amounts of discharge that are produced are fed into the water courses and then dispersed over wide areas. In more lowly regulated economies it is not unreasonable to believe that the situation is probably worse.

Moving towards a better leather requires that chromium use is stopped completely and that the water used in production is cleaned and re-used in the factory. Any tanins and dyes uses would preferably be plant based.

Food for thought: If you wear leather clothing on sweaty skin then chromium residues in the leather can rub off and enter the skin.

19 November 201518 January 2026

Faux Leather on doors and walls

KOTHEA had two recent projects where we had to adhere Faux Leather vertically. This poses a more serious challenge than paper-based wall coverings due to both the weight of the fabric (nearly 1kg per linear metre) and the wear and tear when adhered to a door. Both installations were more involved than domestic ones as we had to consider firstly the use on a yacht in a marine environment and secondly the high levels of usage of a hotel.

So the adhesive needs to be strong.

A further set of issues to overcome are related to how the fabric might react to any chemicals in the adhesive. In both instances our fabric had a 100% cotton back coat with a vinyl mix visible layer. Superfically a conclusion could be drawn that most adhesives would be OK with the surfaces they are fastening to in these instances ie a natural wooden door and inert stone wall combined with the natural cotton back cloth. However the adhesive will almost certainly penetrate the back cloth. Becuase of this the use of a solvent based adhesive, such as Asceton, is most definately not recommended.

So the adhesive needs to be strong and water based.

After performing suitability tests in these instances we chose to use Mapei’s Adheselix VS45 . VS45 is an acrylic adhesive in water dispersion and has been used extensively by Mapei’s customers for PVC/foam wallcoverings and rubber flooring. An alternative of Adesilex G19 was also suggested for areas with more moisture but that was not necessary in these cases.

8 November 201511 April 2026

Directory Listings Of Top Market Fabric Suppliers In The UK

Click the fabric company name for their web site:

Abbot and Boyd 020 7351 9985
Altfield 020 7351 5893
Alton Brooke 020 7376 7008
Borderline 020 7823 3567
Brian Yates 01524 35035
Brunswig 020 7351 5797
Bruno Triplet 020 7823 9990
Chase Erwin 020 8875 7441
Colefax 020 7244 7427
Colony Fabrics 020 7351 3232
Donghia 020 7823 3456
Gainsborough Silk 01787 372081
Henry Bertrand 020 7349 1477
Jab 020 7349 9323
Jane Churchill 020 7244 7427
Jrobertscott 020 7376 4705
KOTHEA 020 8943 4904
Kravet 020 7795 0110
Lee Jofa 020 7823 3455
Lelievre 020 7352 4798
Manuel Canovas 020 8877 6400
Nobilis 020 7351 7878
Pierre Frey 0207 376 55 99
Robert Allen 01494 474741
Sacho Hesslein 020 7352 6168
Silk Gallery 020 7351 1790
Turnell and Gigon 020 7259 7280
Watts Westminster 020 7376 4486
Zimmer and Rhode 020 7351 7115
Zoffany 08708 300 350

Many of these fabric companies sell a wide range of products including: chenille, contract fabric, faux / fake leather, mohair velvet, linen velvet, cotton velvet, wool, hand woven products, natural silk, cashmere and damask for upholstery, curtains and cushions.

7 November 201511 April 2026

Knit Back Fabric Backing

Image via Wikipedia

Some fabrics can be too fragile for use as upholstery unless knit backed. Knit backing is a process whereby, for example, a cotton polyester backing is applied to a lighter weight chenille, silk or cotton.

Essentially the fabric‘s life is increased with better durability and resilience. The handling characteristics of the fabric can be improved; and knit backing also helps prevent seam slippage.

The same principle applies for the fabric whether or not it is to be used for either upholstery or wall covering. There will certainly be other requirements for contract usage, say, in hotels and aviation and also other treatments like fire retardancy or stain protection would be required for contract upholstery.