Velvet Types Compared: A Complete Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers and Architects
- Most durable natural velvet: Mohair, 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs
- Contract fire standard: BS 5852 Crib 5, inherent in correctly certified mohair; topical treatment required for cotton, linen, and silk
- Cleaning code: S (solvent only) for most natural velvets; W or WS for synthetic
- Decorative use only: Silk velvet and cashmere velvet, not suitable for upholstery in regular use
Velvet is a construction method, not a fibre. A velvet fabric is produced by weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously with threads connecting them, then cutting those threads to create an upstanding pile. That pile can be made from almost any fibre, and the fibre is the primary determinant of specification performance, durability, fire rating, cleaning requirements, light fastness, and cost, alongside construction, pile density, and backing. Choosing between velvet types on aesthetic grounds alone is the most common specification error in interior design.
This guide compares the principal velvet types available to specifiers in the UK market across every dimension relevant to a professional specification. For background on the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, and light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.
How Velvet Is Made
Understanding the construction helps explain why fibre choice matters so much in velvet. In warp pile velvet, the pile yarns run along the length of the fabric and are woven over wires or rods. When the rods are withdrawn and the loops cut, a cut pile is formed. In double-cloth velvet, two fabrics are woven face to face simultaneously, joined by pile threads that are then cut to separate them and create pile on both faces. The resulting fabric has a distinct face and back, with the pile standing perpendicular to the base cloth.
The density and height of the pile, the twist of the pile yarn, and the weight and construction of the base cloth all affect performance. The most fundamental variable is the fibre from which the pile is made.
Mohair Velvet
Fibre origin: Hair of the Angora goat, primarily from South Africa and Turkey. South Africa produces more than half of the world’s mohair supply and is the global benchmark for quality. A long-staple, smooth, lustrous fibre with exceptional tensile strength.
Martindale rub count: 80,000 to 100,000 and above, depending on construction and pile density. Mohair velvet achieves the highest rub counts of any natural-fibre velvet and is the most reliably suitable natural-fibre velvet for heavy contract use. Kothea’s mohair velvet ranges are independently tested and achieve between 80,000 and 100,000 Martindale rubs across the active collections.
Fire rating: Mohair fibre, like wool, has natural flame-resistant properties arising from its high protein content. A correctly woven and constructed mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not universal across all mohair velvets and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric.
Cleaning code: S. Dry-cleaning solvent only. Water applied to mohair velvet can cause watermarks and pile matting. For minor fresh stains, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response.
Light fastness: ISO 105-B02 grade 4 to 5 in light colourways and grade 5 to 6 in dark colourways. Suitable for most residential environments. For south-facing rooms, specify dark colourways or confirm the specific colourway grade with the supplier.
Pile appearance: High lustre with a characteristic directional sheen. The pile reflects light differently depending on viewing angle and pile direction, producing the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery velvet.
Suitable applications: Heavy contract upholstery including hotel seating, restaurant banquettes, theatre and hospitality seating, residential sofas and chairs, headboards, cushions, and curtains.
Not recommended for: High-light environments without confirming the colourway grade. Outdoor or semi-outdoor use. Applications requiring machine washing.
Cost position: Premium.
Cotton Velvet
Fibre origin: Cotton plant. A short-staple natural cellulose fibre, widely grown and relatively inexpensive.
Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction, pile density, and backing. Cotton velvet varies enormously in quality. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet can achieve sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use. A thin, loosely woven cotton velvet intended for curtains or cushions may achieve 10,000 rubs or fewer. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure for the range you are specifying.
Fire rating: Topical treatment required. Cotton fibre does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently. A back-coating of flame-retardant chemicals must be applied before use in contract environments. See our complete guide to Crib 5 for detail on inherent versus topical certification. For the risk of dye colour change after FR treatment, see our dye types and FR treatment guide.
Cleaning code: S or WS depending on the specific range. Cotton velvet treated with a back-coating for Crib 5 may require solvent-only cleaning to avoid degrading the treatment.
Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 typically with standard reactive dyes.
Pile appearance: Matte to semi-matte. Cotton pile lacks the lustre of mohair and does not produce the same directional sheen.
Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards.
Not recommended for: Heavy contract use without FR treatment and independent testing. High-humidity environments.
Cost position: Mid-range. Cotton velvet is typically less expensive than mohair at equivalent pile weights but requires the additional cost of FR treatment for contract use.
Silk Velvet
Fibre origin: Cocoon of the silkworm Bombyx mori. Silk is a continuous filament natural protein fibre of exceptional fineness and lustre.
Martindale rub count: Below 15,000 in most cases. Natural silk is the weakest of the natural-fibre velvets in abrasion terms. Silk velvet is decorative fabric, not upholstery fabric in the contract sense of the word.
Fire rating: Topical treatment is possible for domestic standards but silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a full Crib 5 pass for contract use.
Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only. Silk is highly water-sensitive.
Light fastness: Grade 2 to 4 typically. Silk velvet should not be used in rooms with significant natural light exposure. See our light fastness guide for full context.
Pile appearance: The most lustrous of all velvet pile types.
Suitable applications: Decorative cushions, occasional chairs in low-use residential rooms, curtains in low-light environments, bed throws.
Not recommended for: Any contract application. South-facing rooms.
Cost position: High to very high.
Linen Velvet
Fibre origin: Flax plant. Linen is a bast fibre extracted from the stalk of the flax plant.
Martindale rub count: 15,000 to 25,000 typically. Kothea’s Linen Velvet achieves 20,000 Martindale rubs with a SI 1324 cigarette test pass.
Fire rating: Not inherently Crib 5. For contract use, FR treatment or a Schedule 3 interliner is required.
Cleaning code: S or WS. Confirm on the data sheet.
Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard reactive dyes.
Pile appearance: Matte. Linen velvet has a distinctly textural, natural surface character.
Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, curtains, cushions, decorative headboards.
Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. High-humidity environments.
Cost position: Mid-range.
Cashmere and Cashmere-Silk Velvet
Fibre origin: Undercoat of the Himalayan Cashmere goat.
Martindale rub count: Low. Cashmere fibre is too fine and too short-staple to produce velvet with meaningful abrasion resistance for upholstery use. Kothea’s Cashmere Silk Velvet is specified for curtains only.
Fire rating: Topical treatment is technically possible but the handle and appearance of cashmere velvet are typically altered by the coating process.
Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only.
Light fastness: Moderate. Cashmere is a protein fibre and susceptible to UV degradation.
Pile appearance: Extraordinarily soft handle with a subtle, fine lustre.
Suitable applications: Curtains, decorative cushions, bed throws, accent pieces in low-use residential rooms.
Not recommended for: Upholstery of any kind in regular use. Contract environments.
Cost position: Very high.
Synthetic Velvet: Trevira CS and Polyester
Fibre origin: Petrochemical derivatives. Trevira CS is a branded inherently fire-retardant polyester fibre manufactured in Germany.
Martindale rub count: High. Synthetic velvet typically achieves 50,000 to 150,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction.
Fire rating: Trevira CS is inherently flame-retardant. The flame retardancy is a permanent property of the polyester polymer and survives cleaning.
Cleaning code: W or WS typically.
Light fastness: Grade 6 to 7 typically. Solution-dyed synthetic velvet achieves the highest light fastness ratings available in velvet form.
Pile appearance: Varies considerably by construction.
Suitable applications: Contract upholstery where fire certification and durability are the primary requirements. Healthcare environments. Transport seating.
Not recommended for: Ultra-luxury residential briefs where natural fibre handle and appearance are client requirements.
Cost position: Lower to mid-range.
Alpaca Velvet
Fibre origin: Fleece of the South American alpaca.
Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 40,000 typically, depending on construction.
Fire rating: Alpaca is a natural protein fibre with moderate inherent fire resistance, but cannot be assumed to pass BS 5852 Crib 5 without specific independent testing. Request the test certificate from the supplier.
Cleaning code: S typically.
Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard acid dyes.
Pile appearance: Soft and slightly matte with a gentle natural lustre.
Suitable applications: Luxury residential upholstery, cushions, and occasional seating.
Not recommended for: Heavy contract use.
Cost position: High.
Specification Summary by Application
For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality environments, mohair velvet with an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment, and a rub count of 80,000 or above, is the most reliable natural-fibre specification. Synthetic Trevira CS velvet is the alternative where budget or client preference for machine-cleanable fabric applies.
For residential upholstery in moderate-use rooms, cotton velvet at 25,000 to 40,000 Martindale rubs is a sound mid-range specification. Linen velvet at 20,000 rubs suits briefs requiring a natural textural aesthetic.
For decorative applications, cushions, and occasional chairs in low-use rooms, silk velvet, cashmere velvet, or alpaca velvet are appropriate where budget allows and the client accepts the care requirements.
For south-facing rooms or high-light environments, confirm the specific ISO 105-B02 grade before specifying any velvet. Mohair in dark colourways, synthetic velvet, and solution-dyed fabrics offer the most reliable light fastness performance.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most durable velvet for contract upholstery?
Mohair velvet is the most durable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery, achieving Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 depending on construction. It also carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 fire rating without topical treatment, making it the only natural-fibre velvet that meets both the durability and fire certification requirements of most UK contract environments without additional cost or treatment. High-specification synthetic velvet using Trevira CS fibre can achieve comparable or higher rub counts and also carries inherent fire resistance, at a lower cost but with a different aesthetic.
What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?
Mohair velvet is made from the hair of the Angora goat and achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating. Cotton velvet is made from cotton fibre and typically achieves 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, with no inherent Crib 5 rating. Cotton velvet requires topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair velvet has a characteristic directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate.
Can silk velvet be used for upholstery?
Silk velvet is not suitable for upholstery in regular use. It typically achieves fewer than 15,000 Martindale rubs, which places it in the decorative category unsuitable for seating. Silk is also highly photosensitive, with a light fastness grade of 2 to 4, meaning it will fade in rooms with natural light exposure. Silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification for contract use.
Does mohair velvet have an inherent Crib 5 fire rating?
Mohair fibre has natural flame-resistant properties and a correctly woven mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not guaranteed for all mohair velvets by fibre type alone and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. This distinguishes correctly certified mohair velvet from cotton, linen, and silk velvets, all of which require topical treatment to achieve Crib 5.
What velvet is best for south-facing rooms?
For south-facing rooms, specify velvet with an ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade of at least 6. Mohair velvet in dark colourways achieves grade 5 to 6. Synthetic velvet and solution-dyed fabrics typically achieve grade 6 to 7. Silk velvet and cashmere velvet should not be specified for south-facing rooms. Cotton and linen velvet achieve grade 4 to 5, which is borderline for sustained south-facing exposure.
What is the difference between cut pile velvet and uncut pile velvet?
In cut pile velvet the pile loops are cut during production, producing upstanding individual fibres that create the characteristic dense, soft surface. In uncut pile or loop pile velvet the loops remain intact, producing a harder, more textural surface. Most upholstery velvet is cut pile. Some decorative velvets combine cut and uncut areas to create pattern, known as ciselé or voided velvet.
How do I clean velvet upholstery without damaging the pile?
The cleaning method depends on the cleaning code assigned to the specific fabric. Most velvet upholstery is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry-cleaning agents only. Water applied to an S-coded velvet can cause watermarks and permanent pile distortion. Always work in the direction of the pile when applying any cleaning agent or brushing.
Is linen velvet suitable for contract upholstery?
Linen velvet is suitable for light contract use, subject to FR treatment and confirmation of the Martindale rub count for the specific range. A well-constructed linen velvet at 20,000 Martindale rubs meets the minimum threshold for general contract use. However, linen velvet does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently and requires topical treatment or an appropriate interliner for contract environments.
For velvet specification in hotel and hospitality projects, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For velvet on walls and headboards, see our wall panels and headboards guide. For when velvet is the wrong choice, see our when not to use velvet guide. For pilling resistance by velvet type, see our pilling resistance guide. For mohair thermal properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide.
For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, and light fastness grades by range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page and the silks page.
For guidance on using velvet as an acoustic treatment in home studios and music rooms, see our fabric for home studio acoustics guide.
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