Black Velvet – Even Better Italian Silk Velvet In Black

Black Velvet – only to be enjoyed by those who appreciate that black is the new black! KOTHEA have a range of velvets with shades of black colourways in most of those velvet collections.

“Black Diamond” is the colourway name for the Italian Silk Velvet (100% Silk Pile) with the code 777-108-900.

You can get black silk velvet samples here from KOTHEA if you are a trade professional. Just click the link.

KOTHEA velvets are the best in the market. We only sell top market fabrics, mostly to top European Interior Designers and Architects. Here are some more bits of technical information on our black Italian Silk velvet fabric:

Width: 140cm

Composition: 100% Silk Pile

No repeat, plain.

Abrasion: Martindale 20,000.

Available from stock, normal delivery within 5 days.

Minimum Order length: 2m

Moleskin Upholstery Fabric

Moleskin Upholstery FabricMoleskin Fabric is an unusual fabric for upholstery, usually associated with clothing. KOTHEA moleskin is a premium moleskin specifically designed for upholstery with Martindale Rubs between 20,000 and 30,000. Moleskin is often a blend of cotton and linen; however KOTHEA‘s 100% cotton moleskin is extremely tightly woven ensuring that a luxurious look and feel is guaranteed. The overall look is similar to suede yet more exclusive and durable.

The Cigarette & Match Tests BS 5852

For comprehensive guides to the main UK fire standards for interior fabrics, see: BS 5852 Crib 5: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers and FR Treatment, BS 7176, and the Crib 5 Test.


No fabric company can self-certify the fire retardancy of their fabrics. Certification can only be issued by a UKAS-accredited test laboratory.

The following is a summary of fire retardancy requirements by application. For detailed advice on current legislative requirements, consult a specialist fire testing laboratory or your local fire officer.

Domestic

Curtains. No fire treatment is required for domestic curtains.

Upholstery. The fabric must pass the match test (BS 5852 Source 1). The designer must first confirm the fabric passes the cigarette test (BS 5852 Source 0). The cigarette test meets the equivalent European standard BS EN 1021-1. The match test meets BS EN 1021-2. Fabrics containing at least 75% natural fibre content do not usually require treating for the cigarette test, but a Schedule 3 fire-retardant interliner must be used.

Contract

Curtains. The fabric must be treated to BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. Some fabrics meet this standard inherently; most require treatment. Some fabrics cannot be treated to this standard.

Upholstery. The fabric must be treated to BS 5852 Source 5 (Crib 5). This typically involves the fabric being back-coated, and most fabrics can be treated in this way. BS 7176 covers BS 5852 and additionally includes the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak requirement.

Other Applications

Headboards, bed covers, wall coverings, yacht interiors, and aviation interiors may have differing requirements. Confirm the applicable standard with the relevant authority before specifying.

There is broad equivalence between British and European standards. Standards for the United States are different and should be confirmed separately for any project with US compliance requirements.

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Vicuna Silk Velvet (Vicugna) – Better Than Cashmere Silk Velvet?

Silk Velvet Fabric Upholstery Fabric Martindale Rub TestCashmere Silk Velvet is one of the world’s most luxurious fabrics. But is it THE most luxurious? Now this is a good question! and a little tricky to answer.

Perhaps the most expensive yarn is from the vicuña (vicuna, vicugna), which is a camel-like animal found in the high alpine areas of the South American Andes. Whilst not an endangered species it is a rare animal and difficult to farm as it tends to escape!

Cashmere yarn comes from the cashmere goat and other goats such as the pashmina goat.

Cashmere and Vicuna have an outer layer of hair which is coarse and rough but protective for the animal. This is the guard hair. Underneath the guard hair is a warm layer of much, much softer hair. This underlayer consists of hollow-fibred hair that is an excellent insulator. The vicuna has the finest of these fibres of any (resultant) wool anywhere in the world.

About 400g of yarn can be produced from one Vicuna compared to 150g from the Cashmere goat, the latter being a smaller animal. There are many more Cashmere goats in the world and I suspect this is why Cashmere is relatively affordable – as it is produced in much larger volumes in a more competitive market.

As an indication, a Vicuna scarf would cost in excess of US$1000. As far as I know, it is not produced in sufficient quantities to be available in a suitable form for interiors use (I could be wrong). But if it were it could be woven with silk to produce THE MOST EXPENSIVE AND BEST woollen silk velvet in the world. A further problem is that the Vicuna fibre can readily be damaged when dyed, again making significant production quantities problematic.

Now, as much of the Cashmere yarn produced comes from China, Australia and other countries…in fact just about anywhere other than Kasmir! it strikes me that is an opportunity waiting to happen for some illustrious, economically-minded, goat breeder out there with friends in the textiles industry. If the production problems could be overcome I could see that there still would be a market for an interiors fabric retailing at in excess of GBP800/m  (US£1300/yard) – albeit a small one.

What is the Martindale Shade Change?

There is no Martindale Shade Change test as such. If you have been referred to the Martindale rub test, the person referring you is asking about how durable your chosen fabric is to abrasion. The Martindale rub test result is particularly useful in indicating whether a fabric is suitable for its intended use.

Shade change is something different. Martindale tests are routinely undertaken on fabrics in the UK. In other countries different tests are used, such as the Wyzenbeek in the United States. As part of the Martindale test procedure it is becoming more common in the UK for a shade change assessment to also be undertaken.

When a fabric has been rubbed 3,000 times the Martindale test is paused and the fabric is examined to see how the shade has changed. It is then given a mark out of 5, with 5 being the best result indicating the least change.

A natural property of fabrics is that they show change with use. The shade change assessment determines how much of that change will be visible after a reasonable amount of use, with 3,000 rubs being the point at which this is assessed. It does not mean the fabric will wear out after 3,000 rubs. It has nothing to do with wearing out. If your fabric has a Martindale result of 50,000 rubs, the structure of the fabric starts to break down after 50,000 rubs. The shade change result at 3,000 rubs is a separate measure of visual change, not durability.

If your client is asking about fading caused by sunlight rather than shade change caused by wear, that is a different property measured by a different test. For a full explanation of how light fastness works and what grades to specify for different room orientations, see our guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.

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Velvet

Velvets have become increasingly popular over the last 5 years. Both residential and contract usage of velvets have increased tremendously. Having been produced for hundreds of years velvets never seem to have lost the attention of discerning designers.

Interior Designers are often interested in the properties and manufacture of velvet – the two being necessarily related. The depth of the pile, the durability of the finish, the ease of maintaining the beautiful finish.

Velvet is made in one of two ways – cut or uncut:

1. Cut pile

a. Here the loom is configured to Continue reading “Velvet”

Upholstery Curtain Cushion Domestic Textured Weave

LONDON, England. 02-NOVEMBER-2009 11.30 AM: KOTHEA today announced it has expanded its collections of residential textured weaves to include KOSHAZAM. KOSHAZAM has a striking and complex design which challenges the aesthetic intellect of the most discerning designers.

KOSHAZAM
Reference: 03-037-262
Colour Shown: Red Flower
Other colourways: 4
Width: 138cm
Repeat: 72cm
Composition: Mix
Primary Usage: Domestic curtains and
upholstery.
Type of fabric: Textured weave

About KOTHEA.

KOTHEA are a top-market fabric house based in Continue reading “Upholstery Curtain Cushion Domestic Textured Weave”

Martindale vs Wyzenbeek – Rub Test By Abrasion Explained

Both Wyzenbeek and Martindale are abrasion tests, also referred to as rub tests. They are different tests which measure different properties, and success in one does not infer success in the other. Wyzenbeek involves rubbing along the warp and weft of the fabric whereas Martindale uses a figure-of-eight motion. This article gives summary information to assist interior designers in specifying the right levels of abrasion resistance for upholstery.

For a complete guide to the Martindale test including its history, full methodology, rub count classifications, what the test does not measure, and detailed specification guidance, see our comprehensive article: The Martindale Rub Test: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers.


Heavy Duty Usage

For heavy duty upholstery applications, specify a minimum of 30,000 double rubs to the Wyzenbeek method, or 40,000 cycles to the Martindale method.

End use examples where fabric rated at 30,000 Wyzenbeek double rubs is appropriate include single-shift corporate offices, hotel rooms and suites, conference rooms, and dining areas.

More demanding environments may require higher figures. End uses that may require above 30,000 double rubs include 24-hour transportation terminals, 24-hour healthcare emergency rooms, 24-hour casino areas, and high-traffic public gathering spaces such as theatres, stadiums, lecture halls, and fast food restaurants.

Rub counts above 100,000 do not generally provide meaningful additional value in use. Higher abrasion resistance does not necessarily indicate a significant extension of service life.


Test Methods

Wyzenbeek. A sample of the test fabric is pulled tight in a frame and held stationary. Individual specimens cut from the warp and weft directions are rubbed back and forth using an approved fabric as the abradant. The number of double rub cycles achieved before two yarn breaks occur, or noticeable wear is observed, is recorded as the fabric’s abrasion rating.

Martindale. Fabric samples are mounted flat and rubbed in a figure-of-eight motion using a piece of worsted wool cloth as the abradant. The number of cycles the fabric can endure before showing an objectionable change in appearance, such as yarn breaks, pilling, or holes, determines the abrasion rating. Results are recorded in multiples of 5,000 cycles.


Can You Infer One Result from the Other?

No. There is no reliable correlation between Wyzenbeek and Martindale results. It is not possible to estimate the number of cycles a fabric would achieve on one test from the results of the other.

For heavy duty usage, the two equivalent thresholds are 30,000 Wyzenbeek double rubs or 40,000 Martindale cycles. In that sense, for a given level of usage, the Martindale figure is approximately 33% higher than the Wyzenbeek figure. This is a directional guide for specifying purposes only. A fabric scoring 100,000 on one test cannot be assumed to score 133,333 on the other. The result could be higher or lower. The only way to know is to test to both standards independently.

Despite what appears on other websites, including those of well-known fabric houses, you cannot infer a Wyzenbeek score from a Martindale score or vice versa.


For further reading on the Martindale test, including its history, full methodology under BS EN ISO 12947, rub count classification bands, and guidance on what the test does not measure, see: The Martindale Rub Test: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers.

For information on specific collections see mohair velvet upholstery, faux leather upholstery, and upholstery linen.

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