Damasks & Silk Damask

The term DAMASK is generally used to refer to ornamental silk fabrics, typically elaborately woven, perhaps incorporating; several colours, gold or other metallic threads. They are usually found today made from linen, silk or linen-based fabric with woven patterns that emphasise flowers, fruit, forms of animal life, and other types of ‘ornament’.

Usually it is made from one satin warp and one sateen weft interchanged and sometimes with a twill or other binding incorporated.

The name ‘Damask’ is derived from Damascus where, in the 12th century, it became the city famous for its production. Prior to that it was produced throughout Asia and known in the West as ‘diaspron’ or ‘diaper’.

Damask weaves in linen and cotton are currently most commonly found in table linens. Damask cloths for table or bedding purposes are most commonly made of flax but sometimes made partly of cotton or synthetic fibers. The finer damask textiles for these purposes are made of the best linen yarn. This yarn is a brown/ecru colour during weaving but the finished product it typically ivory/white. Highlights in the cloth are obtained by long floats of warp and weft,  set at right angles, to differently reflect the light depending on the position of the observer. Subdued effects are produced by shorter floats of yarn. The finest results are obtained when double damask weaves are used.

The Durability Of Silk Velvet For Upholstery

The durability depends on quite a few things: the tightness of the weave; thickness/strength of the yarn & fabric; back-cloth composition and strength; and so on.

Essentially you need to look at the Martindale or Rub Test result for the specific fabric in question. Two silk velvets can be quite different.

As with all velvets a proper cleaning regime is important to extend the life of the fabric.

One of KOTHEA’s silk velvets has a rub test/Martindale of 25,000. This is more than adequate for general upholstery.

Water Resistant or Water Proof (Waterproof) Fabric

If you are fortunate enough to have a pool then you have no doubt contemplated or bought outdoor fabrics. Many people are confused about the properties of the fabrics they need in these environments; intuitively you feel that you need something that is waterproof.

Let’s look at cushions.

Essentially if a fabric is waterproof it has the same water characteristics as plastic. It means it is totally impervious to water, i.e. water will not penetrate it (leaving aside the seams). You really don’t want that for a poolside fabric. What if it is pin-pricked and what happens to the air inside when you sit on it? That won’t be able to get out either.

Most people buying outdoor cushions accept that they will leave the cushions out overnight by mistake a few times (so condensation will be an issue), most accept too that the cushions will be sat on by people who could be wet.

It is important that you buy water resistant fabric not a waterproof fabric.

Water resistant fabric is treated with a finish that is resistant but not impervious to penetration by water. So, for example, rainwater will form drops on the surface. If you then rub the water it will penetrate the fabric BUT it will also dry out more quickly AND it will allow air to pass through it. If you leave a cushion made out of this overnight occasionally it will be fine.

KOTHEA sells fabrics made from solution dyed yarns that are resistant to water and stains.

How to Lighten Fabrics

We were asked how to lighten fabrics.

We would not advise any of our customers to do this themselves as the results are unpredictable.

Essentially though to lighten a fabric you have to bleach it. Some yarns and some dyes can be significantly affected by bleach others very little. Sunlight too has a bleaching effect and its effect depends on the degree of colour fastness of the fabric.

KOTHEA sells a hydorgen peroxide bleached linen. We have already made a few posts about that <here>. this bleaching is the most environemtnally way of bleaching fabrics during production. This bleaching is used mostly to remove the natural colour from linen.

Cotton Velvet Rub Test

The Martindale rub count of cotton velvet depends on the specific fabric construction — the pile density, pile height, yarn twist, and backing construction all affect the result. As a guide, a contract-grade cotton velvet achieves approximately 30,000 to 50,000 Martindale rubs, placing it in the general contract category suitable for hotel bedrooms, light restaurant use, and office seating. Kothea’s cotton velvet achieves approximately 50,000 Martindale rubs.

Cotton velvet is less abrasion-resistant than mohair velvet of equivalent pile weight. Mohair velvet typically achieves 60,000 to 100,000 or more rubs depending on the specific range. For environments requiring above 60,000 rubs — hotel lobbies, restaurant banquettes, bar seating — mohair velvet is the more appropriate specification. For a full comparison of velvet types and their Martindale counts, see our velvet types compared guide. For the Martindale rub test explained in full, see our Martindale rub test guide.

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Lighten Faux Fur With Hydrogen Peroxide

We were asked: “Can you lighten a faux fur with hydrogen peroxide”.

You can guess the answer: try it out on a sample first or on  piece you won’t see. However to be honest I don’t think it would work on most faux furs.

Hydrogen peroxide is a relatively weak bleach. Typically it is used on natural materials like human hair or linen. Faux furs or fake furs are normally synthetic.

It depends on what exactly the faux fur is made out of, this could be a variety of compounds. It might work on one or two compunds but I doubt it will have much of an effect on most.

Suitability of Wool Mohair For Upholstery

We were asked about the suitability of “wool mohair” for upholstery.

There’s probably a little confusion here as wool and mohair both refer to animal hair. Technically mohair is wool; as wool encompasses animal hair from the Caprinae family (ie sheep, goats, llamas and rabbits). Assuming that the question means sheep wool then both could be woven together of course. But then the suitability of those fibres for upholstery really depends on how they are woven.

So neither wool nor mohair in themselves are always suitable for upholstery. It depends on how they are woven. To properly assess any fabrics suitability for upholstery you need to look at the fabrics rub test and its ability to be fire treated.

Pure natural fibres (sheep wool and mohair) are normally exempt from the match test for upholstery but still need to pass the cigarette test (please look elsewhere on this blog for information – or for definitive information look at www.textilesfr.co.uk).the fabric may or may no require treating, you will have to check.

Mohair can have a Martindale/rub test of over 100,000 (e.g. our Mohair Velvet) and so can be suitable for contract upholstery. Whereas one of our 100% sheep wool fabrics has a martindale of 23,000 again making it suitable for upholstery.

So really its probably best to find the Mohair/Wool fabric you like and then find out if that particular one is suitable for upholstery.

Knit Backing Fabric For Contract Wall Covering

Knit-backed fabric for wall covering applications consists of a face fabric — typically a woven or knitted textile — bonded to a lightweight knitted backing that stabilises the fabric for direct application to walls. The knit backing provides dimensional stability during installation, preventing the fabric from stretching or distorting when adhesive is applied, and allows the face fabric to conform smoothly to the wall surface without wrinkling.

For contract wall covering applications in non-domestic buildings, the fabric assembly — face fabric and backing together — must meet the applicable surface spread of flame standard. In the UK this is typically BS 476 Part 7 Class 1 for commercial interiors. The face fabric alone may meet Class 1 but the composite assembly with the backing must be tested and certified as a unit. For guidance on wall covering fire standards, see our BS 476 Part 7 guide and our wall panels and headboards guide.

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Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

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The UK’s Top-Market Fabric Suppliers To Interior Designers

Click the fabric company name for their web site (top Interior Designers updated for 2026 here):

Abbot and Boyd 020 7351 9985
Altfield 020 7351 5893
Alton Brooke 020 7376 7008
Borderline 020 7823 3567
Brian Yates 01524 35035
Brunswig 020 7351 5797
Bruno Triplet 020 7823 9990
Chase Erwin 020 8875 7441
Colefax 020 7244 7427
Colony Fabrics 020 7351 3232
Donghia 020 7823 3456
Gainsborough Silk 01787 372081
Henry Bertrand 020 7349 1477
Jab 020 7349 9323
Jane Churchill 020 7244 7427
Jrobertscott 020 7376 4705
KOTHEA 0870 285 4768
Kravet 020 7795 0110
Lee Jofa 020 7823 3455
Lelievre 020 7352 4798
Manuel Canovas 020 8877 6400
Nobilis 020 7351 7878
Pierre Frey 0207 376 55 99
Robert Allen 01494 474741
Sacho Hesslein 020 7352 6168
Silk Gallery 020 7351 1790
Turnell and Gigon 020 7259 7280
Watts Westminster 020 7376 4486
Zimmer and Rhode 020 7351 7115
Zoffany 08708 300 350

Many of these fabric companies sell a wide range of products including: chenille, contract fabric, faux / fake leather, mohair velvet, linen velvet, cotton velvet, wool,  hand woven products, natural silk, cashmere and damask for upholstery, curtains and cushions.

KOTWIG – New Farbic From KOTHEA

KOTHEA Release New Fabric For Interiors

LONDON, England. 04-MAY-2009 11.30 AM: KOTHEA today announced it has expanded its product range by the addition of KOTWIG. KOTWIG has an off-the-wall textured design. It has a high Martindale score which is unusually achieved without incorporating polyester. It is highly suitable for a wide range of uses including heavy upholstery and wall treatments in either domestic or contract installations.

Full information can be found <here>.

KOTWIG

Reference: 14-002-436

Colour Shown: Brown – Light Brown

Other colourways: 20

Width: 145cm

Repeat: None

Composition: 43% Linen, 36% Viscose, 21% Cotton.

Martindale: 40,000 ‘rubs’

Primary Usage: General upholstery or wall treatments, contract & domestic.

Type of fabric: Textured Weave

About KOTHEA.

KOTHEA are a top-market fabric house based in London serving customers throughout all of Europe and The Middle East. Founded in 1999 they have since continued to develop and sell an extensive range of timeless fabrics to the top architects, interior- and yacht-designers for projects ranging from mega-yachts to boutique hotels and from luxury spas to penthouses.

KOTHEA operate on a trade-only basis and their fabrics are available to the public through interior designers and specialist interior design shops such as Gotham, Interiors Bis and Fiona Campbell. KOTHEA also supply beautiful hand-woven linen fabrics and finished goods – throws and table linen.

KOTHEA’s trade customers would perceive their signature fabrics to include several ranges of velvet including the exclusive ‘cashmere silk velvet’, silks, linens, double-width sheers, faux leather and interesting weaves for upholstery often with high Martindale ‘rub tests’ making them highly suited to both contract and residential projects.

Founder and Executive Director, Lisa Parsons started KOTHEA more than 10 years ago after 11 highly successful years with Nobilis Fontan in Chelsea and Donghia in Chelsea Harbour. She says, “At KOTHEA we like to think we bring something a little different to the market. Our difference will be reflected in our customers’ eyes by unusual fabrics that complement our core fabric ranges; all augmented by our excellent levels of customers service, market knowledge and attention to detail.”