Mohair Velvet vs Cotton Velvet: Which to Specify

Blue Velvet Chair

Mohair velvet and cotton velvet are the two natural-fibre velvets a UK designer chooses between most often. They look similar on a moodboard and perform very differently in a specification. This guide compares them across durability, fire rating, cleaning, appearance, and cost. For the full range of velvet fibres, see our velvet types guide.


The Core Difference

Mohair velvet has its pile woven from the hair of the Angora goat, a long, smooth, lustrous fibre of exceptional tensile strength. Cotton velvet has its pile woven from cotton, a shorter cellulose fibre. That fibre difference drives every specification distinction that follows: mohair is far more durable, carries an inherent fire rating, and has a directional sheen; cotton is softer in cost, matte in appearance, and needs treatment for contract fire compliance.


Comparison by Specification Measure

MeasureMohair velvetCotton velvet
FibreAngora goat hairCotton
Martindale rub count80,000 to 100,000 and above20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction
Fire ratingInherent BS 5852 Crib 5 in correctly certified ranges, no treatment neededNot inherent; topical FR treatment required for contract use
Cleaning codeS (solvent only)S or WS depending on range and treatment
AppearanceHigh lustre with directional sheen and depth of colourMatte to semi-matte, no directional sheen
SuitabilityHeavy contract and residential upholsteryDomestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, headboards
CostPremiumMid-range, plus FR treatment cost for contract use

Which to Specify

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality seating, mohair velvet is the sounder specification. It reaches 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs, carries an inherent Crib 5 fire rating in correctly certified ranges without the cost or handle change of topical treatment, and its directional sheen gives the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery. Confirm the inherent Crib 5 pass with an independent certificate for the specific range.

For domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards where budget matters and use is lighter, cotton velvet is a sound mid-range choice. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet reaches sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use, but it needs topical FR treatment for any contract environment, which adds cost and can flatten the pile. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure, since cotton velvet quality varies widely.

For the fire treatment implications, see our Crib 5 guide. For durability figures, see our Martindale rub test guide. For the full specification library organised by environment, application, and performance need, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.


Quick answers

What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?
Mohair velvet has its pile woven from Angora goat hair and reaches 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating in correctly certified ranges. Cotton velvet has its pile woven from cotton, reaches 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, and needs topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair has a directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate.


Is mohair velvet worth the extra cost over cotton velvet?
For heavy contract use, yes. Mohair velvet reaches far higher abrasion figures, carries an inherent Crib 5 fire rating without the cost and handle change of topical treatment, and lasts longer in daily multi-user settings. For lighter domestic use where budget matters, cotton velvet is a sound choice at lower cost, provided its Martindale figure suits the application and FR treatment is added where contract fire compliance is required.


Which velvet is more durable, mohair or cotton?
Mohair velvet is more durable. It reaches 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs against cotton velvet’s typical 20,000 to 60,000, and its long, strong Angora goat fibre resists crushing and wear better than cotton’s shorter fibre. Mohair is the more reliable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery.


To request cuttings of any KOTHEA velvet, visit KOTHEA.com/cuttings.

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Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

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How to Clean Mohair Velvet

Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned

For a complete guide to fabric care symbols and upholstery cleaning codes including what W, S, WS, and X mean for velvet upholstery, see: Fabric Care Symbols and Cleaning Codes: A Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers.


How to Maintain and Clean Mohair Velvets

Mohair velvet can be difficult to clean. If you are in any doubt, contact a professional cleaner. The following information is provided as a guide only and is not a formal recommendation by KOTHEA.

As with many fabrics, prevention is the best cure. A regularly cleaned velvet will last longer. Routine care should consist of brushing with a firm clothes brush and regular vacuuming. Expert professional cleaning approximately every five years is advisable as part of a longer-term maintenance regime.

Removing Stains

Serious stains should always be removed by a professional. Never attempt to treat them yourself.

Minor stains can sometimes be removed, but always test any cleaning method on a small inconspicuous area first.

For fresh stains that have not dried, use an absorbent, dampened, lint-free cloth. Do not use a coloured cloth as the dye may transfer into the velvet. If water alone does not work, try a diluted upholstery shampoo applied carefully following the manufacturer’s instructions. Rub very gently, finishing in the direction of the pile. Remove all chemical residue afterwards.

Do not use the fabric again until it is thoroughly dry.

Dealing with Wear and Tear

A regular cleaning regime is essential for velvets. Without it, the fabric can show premature wear, most visibly on regularly used areas of sofas and chairs. Frequent movement on velvet pile pushes the pile in different directions, which can eventually cause matting. When pile lies in different directions the shade of the fabric can appear to change. This is a natural property of the fabric and is made worse by excess heat or humidity.

Mohair velvets generally take and hold colour well and typically achieve high Martindale rub test scores, making them among the more durable natural-fibre velvets available for upholstery.

On clean fabric only, the following may help restore the pile: apply a clean, lightly dampened cloth and leave for ten hours, then remove and allow the fabric to dry naturally for ten hours in a well-ventilated room. Use only pure or distilled water. Never wet or soak the cloth or the fabric.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Spring 2016

Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.

Spring 2016

Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.

Spring 2016

Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.

Spring 2016

Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.

spring 2016

Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.

Spring 2016

Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned
Mohair, Cotton and Silk Velvet Textured Upholstery Patterned

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.

Spring 2016

Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles
Silk Curtains Sheers & Voiles

New KOTHEA Collections for Spring 2016. Textured upholstery,sumptuous textured weaves, mohair and silk velvets, faux leathers and new colours for our existing Cashmere Throw range. Sampling available on our <home page>.