How to Choose Upholstery Fabric for Bespoke Furniture

Choosing fabric for a bespoke sofa, chair or headboard is not only a question of colour and handle. The way the piece is built decides which fabrics will work: deep buttoning, channelling, tight curves, loose covers and long seats each put different demands on the cloth. This guide sets out how to match the fabric to the construction, so the upholsterer receives a fabric that suits the frame, for interior designers, architects and contractors commissioning bespoke upholstery. For choosing by use, see our best upholstery fabric by use guide.


How to Choose Upholstery Fabric: Five Checks

CheckWhat to confirm
UseMartindale rub count for the level of wear: 15,000 light domestic, 25,000 general domestic, 40,000 contract
ConstructionWhether the fabric can be buttoned, channelled, pulled round curves or made into loose covers
Width and directionFabric width, pile direction and pattern repeat, which set the cutting plan and the quantity
FireThe match test for domestic furniture; BS 5852 Crib 5 or BS 7176 for contract seating
CleaningThe cleaning code, matched to how the piece will be maintained

Deep Buttoning and Tufting

Deep buttoning pulls the fabric into pleats between the buttons, so the cloth must fold cleanly and recover. Velvet is the traditional choice for a buttoned chesterfield or headboard because the pile hides the fold lines, though it will show pressure marks around each button. Very thick or heavily textured weaves make bulky pleats. Coated fabrics such as faux leather can be buttoned but need a skilled upholsterer to form the pleats. Ask the upholsterer to button a sample before the full order is cut.


Channelled and Fluted Backs

Channelling stitches the fabric into vertical flutes, so the cloth must follow tight curves and the pile or pattern must run the same way in every channel. Velvet channelling is striking but every channel must be cut in the same pile direction, which adds to the quantity. A plain fabric is easier to channel than a pattern, because a pattern must be centred on each flute.


Curved and Sculpted Frames

Rounded backs, tub chairs and sculpted shapes need a fabric with some give, so it can be eased round the curve without puckering. A cut-pile velvet or a soft wool usually handles curves better than a stiff, tightly woven linen or a heavy coated fabric. Discuss the frame with the upholsterer early; a fabric that looked right on the moodboard may not suit the shape.


Loose Covers

Loose covers are removed for cleaning, so shrinkage matters more than on tight upholstery. A pre-washed fabric, such as KOTHEA’s Relax, Restful and Recline Linen, has had most of its residual shrinkage removed before making up. Confirm the cleaning method with the fabric’s cleaning code before specifying; see our upholstery cleaning codes guide.


Long Sofas, Railroading and Pile Direction

Railroading means running the fabric along the length of the sofa rather than up the roll, so a long seat or back can be covered without a seam. It suits plain, non-directional fabrics. Velvet is normally not railroaded, because the pile must run down the back and from the back to the front of the seat on every panel; turning it sideways changes the colour and the way it wears. Check whether a fabric can be railroaded before relying on it for a long seat, and allow for the extra fabric that pile direction needs. See our how much fabric to upholster furniture guide and our pattern matching guide.


Piping and Contrast Details

Piping is cut on the bias from the main fabric or a contrast, and adds to the quantity. Very thick fabrics make bulky piping; a finer contrast fabric is often the better choice. A contrast velvet piping on a linen sofa is a classic detail.


Fragile Fabrics and Backing

Some fabrics are too light for upholstery on their own. A knit backing stabilises a fine silk, chenille or lightweight cotton, improves its handling and helps prevent seam slippage. See our knit back fabric backing note, and check the Martindale rub count once backed.


Fire Rules for Bespoke Furniture

Bespoke furniture for a home must comply with the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations 1988: the cover must pass the cigarette test and, in most cases, the match test, unless it qualifies for a Schedule 3 interliner. See our Crib 5 interliners guide. Bespoke seating for hotels, restaurants and other contract buildings is specified to BS 5852 Crib 5 or BS 7176; see our BS 7176 guide. KOTHEA mohair velvet carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 rating, so it needs no treatment before it reaches the upholsterer.


Briefing the Upholsterer

Give the upholsterer the fabric name, width, composition, rub count, pile direction, pattern repeat and match type, and the fire certificate, and ask them to confirm the quantity against the frame before the order is placed. Order the full quantity in one dye lot. For a complete specification, see our how to write a fabric specification guide. For every KOTHEA upholstery range side by side, see our luxury upholstery fabric page.


Quick answers

How do I choose upholstery fabric for bespoke furniture?
Check five things: the rub count for the level of use, whether the fabric suits the construction (buttoning, channelling, curves or loose covers), the width, pile direction and pattern repeat, the fire rating, and the cleaning code. Ask the upholsterer to confirm the fabric suits the frame and the quantity before ordering.


What is the best fabric for deep buttoning?
For trade use on deep-buttoned sofas, chairs and headboards, velvet is the traditional choice because the pile hides the pleat lines; KOTHEA’s mohair velvets add an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 rating for contract pieces. Very thick or heavily textured weaves make bulky pleats. Ask the upholsterer to button a sample first.


Can velvet be railroaded?
Velvet is normally not railroaded. The pile must run down the back and from the back to the front of the seat on every panel, and turning it sideways changes the colour and the way it wears. Railroading suits plain, non-directional fabrics.


What fabric is best for loose covers?
Choose a fabric with low shrinkage and a cleaning code that suits how the covers will be cleaned. For trade use, KOTHEA’s pre-washed Relax, Restful and Recline Linen have had most residual shrinkage removed before making up.


To request cuttings for a bespoke commission, visit KOTHEA.com/cuttings.

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Best Upholstery Fabric by Use: Sofas, Dining Chairs, Pets and Hotels

The best upholstery fabric depends on how the piece will be used. A dining chair, a family sofa, a hotel banquette and an occasional chair in a guest bedroom each need a different balance of durability, cleanability, fire rating and handle. This guide sets out what to specify for each common use, with the KOTHEA ranges that fit, for interior designers, architects and contractors. For every range side by side, see our luxury upholstery fabric page, and for matching fabric to buttoning, channelling or loose covers, our bespoke upholstery guide.


Best Fabric by Use

UseWhat mattersKOTHEA ranges to consider
Sofa in daily use25,000 Martindale rubs or more; a pile or tight weaveFine Cotton Velvet (110,000), Mohair Velvet One (100,000), Recline Linen (80,000)
Dining chairsEasy cleaning of food and drink spills; firm, smooth surfaceFaux Leather 3 (over 200,000), Recline Linen (80,000), Fine Cotton Velvet (110,000)
Homes with cats or dogsNo loops for claws to hookFaux Leather 3; dense short-pile velvet such as Fine Cotton Velvet
Hotels, restaurants and bars40,000 Martindale rubs or more; BS 5852 Crib 5Mohair Velvet One (inherent Crib 5), Faux Leather 3, Trevi Velvet, Bobbly Wool 2
Occasional chairsHandle and colour over durabilityItalian Silk Velvet (20,000), Linen Velvet (20,000), Bella Silk Velvet (14,000)
HeadboardsLow abrasion; fire standard depends on the buildingAny velvet or linen; mohair velvet where Crib 5 is needed

Rub counts are Martindale unless stated. Mohair Velvet Three and Four are tested to 100,000 Wyzenbeek double rubs, which is a different test; see our Wyzenbeek vs Martindale guide.


Hard Wearing Upholstery Fabric

The hardest wearing fabrics have a high rub count and a construction that resists snagging: a dense pile, a tight weave or a coated surface. In the KOTHEA range, Faux Leather 3 is tested to over 200,000 Martindale rubs, Fine Cotton Velvet to 110,000, Mohair Velvet One to 100,000 and Recline Linen to 80,000. As a working guide, 15,000 rubs suits light domestic use, 25,000 general domestic use and 40,000 contract seating. See our Martindale rub test guide for the full thresholds.


Fabric for Dining Chairs

Dining chairs take spills, crumbs and constant getting in and out, so cleanability matters as much as rub count. Faux leather wipes clean and is the most practical choice for family dining and restaurants. A pre-washed linen mix such as Recline Linen or a cotton velvet gives a softer look with good durability, but agree the cleaning method first; see our upholstery cleaning codes guide. A seat-only dining chair needs about 0.5 to 0.75 metres of 140 cm fabric; see our how much fabric to upholster furniture guide.


Fabric for Homes with Pets

Cats and dogs can damage any fabric. The fabrics to avoid are those with loops in the weave, such as boucle and open textured weaves, because a claw hooks a loop and pulls it. Velvet has a cut pile with no loops, so it holds up better than many expect, though its backcloth can still be snagged by a persistent scratcher. Faux leather has nothing for a claw to hook. See our velvet and cats guide.


Fabric for Hotels and Restaurants

Contract seating needs a high rub count, a BS 5852 Crib 5 rating and a cleaning code that matches the housekeeping regime. Mohair velvet is the strongest natural choice because its Crib 5 rating is inherent to the fibre and needs no treatment. See our contract upholstery fabric page, our hotel fabric specification guide and our BS 7176 guide.


Quick answers

What is the best fabric for upholstery?
The best upholstery fabric depends on use. For trade and contract use, the best all-round choice is KOTHEA’s Mohair Velvet One: a 100% mohair pile, 100,000 Martindale rubs and an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 rating. For the hardest wear, KOTHEA’s Faux Leather 3 exceeds 200,000 Martindale rubs. For a natural look in heavy domestic use, KOTHEA’s Recline Linen at 80,000.


What is the best fabric for a sofa?
For trade use on a sofa in daily use, choose a fabric of 25,000 Martindale rubs or more with a dense pile or tight weave. KOTHEA’s Fine Cotton Velvet (110,000 rubs), Mohair Velvet One (100,000) and Recline Linen (80,000) all suit family sofas; for a home with cats, avoid looped weaves such as boucle.


What is the most hard wearing upholstery fabric?
Coated fabrics and dense velvets wear longest. In the KOTHEA range, Faux Leather 3 is tested to over 200,000 Martindale rubs, Fine Cotton Velvet to 110,000 and Mohair Velvet One to 100,000. For contract seating, specify 40,000 Martindale rubs or more.


What is the best fabric for dining chairs?
For trade use on dining chairs, the most practical fabric is faux leather, such as KOTHEA’s Faux Leather 3, because it wipes clean and exceeds 200,000 Martindale rubs. For a softer look, a pre-washed linen mix such as Recline Linen at 80,000 rubs, or a cotton velvet, provided the cleaning method is agreed first.


What upholstery fabric is best with cats?
Avoid looped weaves such as boucle, which claws hook and pull. Faux leather has nothing to hook, and velvet has a cut pile with no loops, so both hold up better, although a velvet’s backcloth can still be snagged by a persistent scratcher.


To request cuttings of any KOTHEA upholstery fabric, visit KOTHEA.com/cuttings.

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Upholstery Cleaning Codes W, S, WS and X Explained

Upholstery cleaning codes are single letters, W, S, WS and X, that tell a cleaner which kind of cleaning agent an upholstery fabric will tolerate. They appear on furniture labels, swatch cards and specification sheets, and they decide how a piece can be maintained once it is installed. This guide explains each code, where the codes come from, and how to use them in a contract specification. For care labelling symbols on fabric, see our fabric care symbols and cleaning codes guide.


The Four Cleaning Codes

CodeMeaningIn practice
WWater-based cleaning agentsSpot clean with a water-based upholstery cleaner or foam. Avoid solvents.
SSolvent-based cleaning agents onlyUse a water-free dry cleaning solvent. Water can leave rings, shrink the fabric or spread dye.
WS (also written SW or S/W)Water-based or solvent-based agentsEither may be used. Professional cleaning is still recommended for overall soiling.
XNo water or solventVacuum or light brushing only. Any further cleaning should be done by a professional.

Whatever the code, test any cleaner on a hidden area first, blot rather than rub, and keep the cleaning agent away from the frame and filling.


Where the Codes Come From

The W, S, WS and X codes are a furniture industry labelling convention that began in North America and is now widely used by UK furniture makers and fabric houses. They are not the same as the ISO 3758 care symbols that appear on textile labels. ISO 3758 pictograms describe washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry cleaning of the fabric as a material. Upholstery cleaning codes describe how a fabric can be cleaned once it is fixed to a frame and cannot be removed. A fabric can carry both.

The code WS should not be confused with WS as a fibre abbreviation, which means cashmere on a composition label. See our fabric abbreviations guide for the fibre codes.


Cleaning Codes in a Contract Specification

The cleaning code should match the cleaning regime of the building, not the other way round. A hotel or restaurant whose housekeeping team uses water-based extraction cleaning needs fabrics coded W or WS. An S-coded fabric in that setting will be cleaned with water sooner or later, and may mark or shrink. Agree the cleaning regime with the operator at the briefing stage, and record the code for every fabric in the specification and the handover file. For what belongs in that file, see our fabric specification guide.

Three further points apply to contract work. Fire retardant treatment can be affected by water-based cleaning, so confirm with the treatment provider whether wet cleaning reduces the rating; see our how FR treatment works guide. Pile fabrics such as velvet need cleaning with the pile, and water can leave watermarks on some velvets; see our when not to use velvet guide. Healthcare settings need fabrics that tolerate disinfectants, which is a separate test from the cleaning code; see our healthcare fabric guide.

For mohair velvet specifically, see our mohair velvet care and cleaning guide. For cleaning compatibility of PVC, PU and silicone leather, see our faux leather types guide. For the full specification library, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.


Quick answers

What do upholstery cleaning codes W, S, WS and X mean?
W means clean with water-based agents only. S means clean with solvent-based agents only, with no water. WS means either water-based or solvent-based agents may be used. X means no water or solvent: vacuum or brush only, and use a professional for anything more.


What is the best cleaning code for contract upholstery?
For trade and contract use, the best cleaning code is the one that matches the building’s cleaning regime, and W or WS is the most practical for hotels and restaurants that use water-based extraction cleaning. Agree the regime with the operator before specifying, and check whether wet cleaning affects any fire retardant treatment.


Is WS a cleaning code or a fibre?
Both, in different places. On a cleaning label, WS means water-based or solvent-based cleaning agents may be used. On a composition label, WS is the fibre abbreviation for cashmere. Read the code in the context of the label it appears on.


Are upholstery cleaning codes the same as care symbols?
No. Care symbols under ISO 3758 describe washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry cleaning of a fabric as a material. Upholstery cleaning codes describe how a fabric can be cleaned once it is fixed to furniture. A fabric can carry both, and a contract specification should record both.


To request cuttings and confirm the cleaning code for a KOTHEA range, visit KOTHEA.com/cuttings or contact KOTHEA.

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How Much Fabric to Upholster Furniture: Estimates by Type

Estimating how much fabric a piece of furniture needs is one of the most common calculations in a specification, and one of the easiest to get wrong. This guide gives working estimates by furniture type in metres, explains the variables that change them, and shows how to add the pattern-repeat allowance. For pattern matching and repeat calculation, see our pattern matching guide. For curtains, see our how much fabric for curtains guide. For choosing the fabric itself, see our best upholstery fabric by use guide and our bespoke upholstery guide.


Estimates by Furniture Type

These are working estimates for plain fabric on a standard piece, based on a 140 cm wide fabric. They are starting points for budgeting and initial ordering, not a substitute for the upholsterer’s measured calculation on the specific frame.

PiecePlain fabric estimate (140 cm wide)
Dining chair, seat only0.5 to 0.75 m
Dining chair, seat and back1.5 to 2 m
Occasional or accent chair2.5 to 4 m
Armchair5 to 7 m
Wing chair6 to 8 m
Two-seat sofa10 to 14 m
Three-seat sofa14 to 18 m
Large or corner sofa18 to 25 m
Headboard, single2 to 3 m
Headboard, king3 to 4.5 m
Ottoman or footstool1.5 to 3 m

What Changes the Estimate

Several variables move the figure up from the base estimate, sometimes substantially. Fabric width is the first: the estimates above assume 140 cm. A narrower fabric, such as 130 cm, needs proportionally more length, and a very narrow fabric changes the cutting plan entirely. Pattern repeat is the second and largest: a patterned fabric needs extra length to align the repeat across panels, added on top of the plain estimate. A directional fabric or one with a pile that must run the same way on every panel, such as velvet, restricts how pieces can be cut and raises the quantity. Deep buttoning, pleating, valances, and contrast piping all add fabric. Loose covers need more than tight upholstery because of tuck-ins and hems.


Adding the Pattern Repeat

The estimates above are for plain fabric. For a patterned fabric, add the repeat allowance on top: one full vertical repeat per cut length for a straight match, one and a half vertical repeats per cut length for a half drop. On a large-scale repeat this can add a significant proportion to the plain figure. The full method, with worked examples, is in our pattern matching guide.


The Rule That Prevents Shortfalls

Always have the upholsterer confirm the measured quantity against the specific frame before the fabric is ordered, and order the full quantity in one dye lot. A job that runs short mid-way needs a fresh order from a potentially different dye lot, which risks a visible colour difference and a programme delay. For dye lot management on larger orders, see our lead times and custom colour matching guide. For the full specification library organised by environment, application, and performance need, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.


Quick answers

How much fabric do I need to reupholster a sofa?
As a working estimate on 140 cm wide plain fabric, allow 10 to 14 metres for a two-seat sofa, 14 to 18 metres for a three-seat sofa, and 18 to 25 metres for a large or corner sofa. These are starting points for budgeting. A patterned fabric needs more to align the repeat, and a directional or pile fabric such as velvet needs more because of cutting restrictions. Always have the upholsterer confirm the measured quantity against the specific frame before ordering.


How much fabric to upholster a dining chair?
For a drop-in or fixed seat only, allow 0.5 to 0.75 metres of 140 cm wide plain fabric per chair. For a chair with an upholstered seat and back, allow 1.5 to 2 metres. Add a pattern-repeat allowance for patterned fabric, and order all chairs in a set from a single dye lot to avoid colour variation between them.


Why does a patterned fabric need more than a plain one?
A patterned fabric must be cut so the repeat aligns across every panel and seam, which means each cut length starts at the same point in the repeat and the fabric between those points is waste. Add one full vertical repeat per cut length for a straight match and one and a half for a half drop. On a large-scale repeat this can add a substantial proportion to the plain estimate.


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Mohair Velvet vs Cotton Velvet: Which to Specify

Blue Velvet Chair

KOTHEA supplies both mohair and cotton velvet to the trade, and this is the comparison designers ask us for most.

Mohair velvet and cotton velvet are the two natural-fibre velvets a UK designer chooses between most often. They look similar on a moodboard and perform very differently in a specification. This guide compares them across durability, fire rating, cleaning, appearance, and cost. For the full range of velvet fibres, see our velvet types guide. To compare KOTHEA’s cotton and mohair ranges side by side, see our velvet upholstery fabric page.


The Core Difference

Mohair velvet has its pile woven from the hair of the Angora goat, a long, smooth, lustrous fibre of exceptional tensile strength. Cotton velvet has its pile woven from cotton, a shorter cellulose fibre. That fibre difference drives every specification distinction that follows: mohair is far more durable, carries an inherent fire rating, and has a directional sheen; cotton is softer in cost, matte in appearance, and needs treatment for contract fire compliance.


Comparison by Specification Measure

MeasureMohair velvetCotton velvet
FibreAngora goat hairCotton
Martindale rub count80,000 to 100,000 and above20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction
Fire ratingInherent BS 5852 Crib 5 in correctly certified ranges, no treatment neededNot inherent; topical FR treatment required for contract use
Cleaning codeS (solvent only)S or WS depending on range and treatment
AppearanceHigh lustre with directional sheen and depth of colourMatte to semi-matte, no directional sheen
SuitabilityHeavy contract and residential upholsteryDomestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, headboards
CostPremiumMid-range, plus FR treatment cost for contract use

Which to Specify

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality seating, mohair velvet is the sounder specification. It reaches 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs, carries an inherent Crib 5 fire rating in correctly certified ranges without the cost or handle change of topical treatment, and its directional sheen gives the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery. Confirm the inherent Crib 5 pass with an independent certificate for the specific range.

For domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards where budget matters and use is lighter, cotton velvet is a sound mid-range choice. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet reaches sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use, but it needs topical FR treatment for any contract environment, which adds cost and can flatten the pile. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure, since cotton velvet quality varies widely.

For KOTHEA’s four ranges and their specifications, see our mohair velvet upholstery page. For the fire treatment implications, see our Crib 5 guide. For durability figures, see our Martindale rub test guide. For the full specification library organised by environment, application, and performance need, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.


Quick answers

What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?
Mohair velvet has its pile woven from Angora goat hair and reaches 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating in correctly certified ranges. Cotton velvet has its pile woven from cotton, reaches 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, and needs topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair has a directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate.


Is mohair velvet worth the extra cost over cotton velvet?
For heavy contract use, yes. Mohair velvet reaches far higher abrasion figures, carries an inherent Crib 5 fire rating without the cost and handle change of topical treatment, and lasts longer in daily multi-user settings. For lighter domestic use where budget matters, cotton velvet is a sound choice at lower cost, provided its Martindale figure suits the application and FR treatment is added where contract fire compliance is required.


Which velvet is more durable, mohair or cotton?
Mohair velvet is more durable. It reaches 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs against cotton velvet’s typical 20,000 to 60,000, and its long, strong Angora goat fibre resists crushing and wear better than cotton’s shorter fibre. Mohair is the more reliable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery. KOTHEA’s Fine Cotton Velvet is an exception, retested to 110,000 Martindale rubs.


To request cuttings of any KOTHEA velvet, visit KOTHEA.com/cuttings.

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PVC vs PU Leather: Which to Specify for Contract Upholstery

Faux leather upholstery fabric from KOTHEA

PVC and PU are the two synthetic leathers a UK specifier will meet most often, and they are not interchangeable. This guide compares them across the measures that decide a contract specification: abrasion, fire certification, cleaning, cold performance, and cost. For the wider comparison including silicone leather, see our faux leather types guide.


PVC and PU: The Core Difference

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) leather is built on a plasticised PVC layer over a textile backing. PU (polyurethane) leather is built on a polyurethane coating over a textile backing. The base polymer is the difference, and it drives almost every performance distinction that follows. PVC is the more robust and chemically resistant of the two. PU is softer, more breathable, and closer to the handle of real leather, but generally less durable over a long service life.


Comparison by Specification Measure

MeasurePVC leatherPU leather
Abrasion (Martindale)High; contract grades reach 100,000 and above, some over 200,000Moderate; typically lower than equivalent PVC, prone to surface peeling over time
HandleFirmer, can feel less naturalSofter, closer to real leather
BreathabilityLowHigher
Fire certificationReadily available with BS 5852 Crib 5Available but less commonly certified to Crib 5
CleaningWipe-clean, resistant to most cleaning agentsMore sensitive to solvents and prolonged moisture
Cold-crack performanceStandard PVC can stiffen and crack in cold; cold-resistant grades availableGenerally more flexible in cold, no plasticiser migration
LongevityLong service life in high-use contract settingsShorter; surface delamination is the common failure mode
CostMid-rangeMid-range, can be higher for premium grades

Which to Specify

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, healthcare, and transport, PVC leather is usually the sounder specification. It reaches the highest abrasion figures, is readily certified to BS 5852 Crib 5, and wipes clean, which matters in high-turnover and infection-controlled settings. Confirm the cold-crack grade for any exterior or marine application, since standard PVC stiffens in cold. KOTHEA’s faux leather upholstery range, Faux Leather 3, is PVC-based and tested to in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a BS 5852 Crib 5 rating.

For projects where handle and appearance are the priority and use is lighter, PU leather is the better choice. It feels closer to real leather and breathes better, which suits residential and boutique settings. The trade-off is service life: PU is more prone to surface peeling and delamination over years of heavy use, so it is less suited to the most demanding contract environments.

For cold-crack testing relevant to exterior and marine use, see our cold crack temperature testing guide. For the chemical safety and durability picture, see our faux leather sustainability guide. For the full specification library organised by environment, application, and performance need, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.


Quick answers

Is PVC or PU leather better for contract upholstery?
PVC leather is usually better for heavy contract upholstery. It reaches higher Martindale abrasion figures, is readily certified to BS 5852 Crib 5, and wipes clean, which suits hotels, healthcare, and transport. PU leather is better where handle and appearance matter more than service life, such as residential and boutique settings, but it is more prone to surface peeling over time.


What is the difference between PVC and PU leather?
PVC leather is built on a plasticised polyvinyl chloride layer and is more durable and chemically resistant. PU leather is built on a polyurethane coating and is softer, more breathable, and closer to the handle of real leather, but generally less durable. The base polymer is the difference and it drives their contrasting performance.


Does PU leather peel more than PVC?
PU leather is more prone to surface peeling and delamination over a long service life than PVC. This is the common failure mode for PU in heavy-use settings, which is why PVC is generally specified where durability over many years is the priority.


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When Not to Use Velvet — and What to Specify Instead

Black mohair velvet upholstery on a regal chair

Velvet fails fastest in: High-UV environments, wet or humid conditions, applications requiring water-based cleaning, tight upholstery with sharp frame edges.
The most common misspecification: Cotton or synthetic velvet in a contract environment without Crib 5 certification, or any velvet in an outdoor or semi-outdoor setting.
What this guide covers: The specific applications and conditions where velvet is the wrong choice and what to specify instead for each scenario.

Velvet is one of the most commercially significant upholstery fabrics in the UK interior design market. It also generates more specification failures than almost any other fabric type. The failures are not caused by velvet being an inferior product — at its best, contract mohair velvet is among the most technically capable upholstery fabrics available. They are caused by velvet being specified in conditions for which it is structurally unsuitable. This guide is a frank account of when not to use velvet and what to choose instead.

For comparative performance data of different velvet types, see our velvet types compared guide.


Outdoor and Semi-Outdoor Environments

No natural-fibre velvet — mohair, cotton, linen, silk, cashmere — is suitable for outdoor or semi-outdoor use. The pile structure of velvet traps and retains moisture, which in outdoor conditions accelerates mould and mildew growth within the pile. UV exposure degrades natural fibre dyes at a much faster rate on outdoor velvet because the pile structure increases the surface area exposed to UV radiation relative to the fabric weight.

Semi-outdoor applications — covered terraces, glazed atriums with opening panels, poolside seating under a canopy — are equally problematic. The combination of occasional direct moisture exposure and sustained UV transmission produces conditions that natural-fibre velvet cannot tolerate.

Specify instead: Solution-dyed acrylic, high-specification outdoor polyester, or marine-grade PVC faux leather with UV stabilisers. See our IMO marine standards guide for marine and outdoor fabric guidance.


High-Humidity Environments

Velvet in sustained high-humidity conditions — spa changing rooms, pool surrounds, steam room lobbies — absorbs atmospheric moisture and does not dry quickly due to the density of the pile. Retained moisture in the pile base creates conditions for mould growth and accelerates deterioration of the backing structure.

Specify instead: PVC or silicone faux leather, both of which are non-absorbent and can be wiped dry. See our faux leather types compared guide.


Applications Requiring Regular Water-Based Cleaning

Most velvet carries a cleaning code of S — solvent-based dry cleaning only. Water applied to S-coded velvet causes watermarks and pile distortion that may be permanent. In any environment where the cleaning team applies water-based products to upholstered surfaces as standard — hotel bedrooms on standard cleaning schedules, restaurant seating cleaned between services with damp cloths, healthcare environments requiring wet disinfection — S-coded velvet is incompatible with the operational reality.

This is the most common operational failure with velvet in hospitality environments. The fabric is specified, installed, and cleaned incorrectly within the first week.

Specify instead: Confirm whether the specific velvet range carries a WS code rather than S. If water-based cleaning is unavoidable throughout the scheme, specify PVC faux leather for those positions and use velvet in areas — headboards, decorative cushions, low-use occasional seating — where the cleaning regime can be controlled.


South-Facing Rooms and High-Light Environments

Velvet in pale colourways in south-facing rooms will show fading faster than an equivalent flat-woven fabric. The pile structure presents a larger surface area to light than a flat weave of the same fibre and weight, accelerating photodegradation of the dye. For guidance on light fastness ratings and room orientation, see our light fastness and Blue Wool Scale guide.

Specify instead: Confirm the ISO 105-B02 grade for the specific colourway before ordering. For very high-light conditions, specify dark mohair velvet colourways or move to a flat-woven fabric in a light-fast colourway for the most exposed positions.


Tight Upholstery Over Sharp Frame Edges

Velvet pile is vulnerable at points where the fabric is pulled tightly over sharp frame edges — the corners of seat pads, the edges of dining chair backs. At these points the pile is subjected to sustained localised tension that gradually pulls fibres from the pile base, causing thinning and eventually pile loss. When specifying velvet for an upholstery project, ensure the furniture specification calls for appropriately softened frame edges at all contact points.

Specify instead: For furniture with unavoidably sharp frame edges, specify a flat-woven fabric in a comparable colour and weight. The absence of pile eliminates the pile-loss risk at edges entirely.


Healthcare Environments Requiring Disinfectant Cleaning

Healthcare environments use cleaning products — hypochlorite bleach solutions, quaternary ammonium compounds, alcohol-based disinfectants — that are incompatible with the cleaning codes of most velvet fabrics. The pile structure traps contaminants and cannot be cleaned to clinical standards.

Specify instead: Silicone leather for patient-contact seating in clinical environments. For full guidance, see our fabric for healthcare environments guide.


Budget-Constrained Projects Where Velvet Requires FR Treatment

Cotton, linen, and synthetic velvets that do not carry an inherent Crib 5 certification require FR treatment for contract use. The treatment adds cost, programme time, and introduces dye interaction risks in certain colourways. For a budget-constrained project, the total cost including treatment may exceed the cost of an alternative with inherent certification. See our dye types and FR treatment guide for the specific risks.

Specify instead: Mohair velvet with independently certified Crib 5 achieved without topical treatment eliminates the treatment cost, programme time, and dye risk entirely.


Quick answers

Can velvet be used outdoors?
No natural-fibre velvet is suitable for outdoor or semi-outdoor use. The pile structure retains moisture and the fibres degrade rapidly under UV exposure. For outdoor or covered terrace seating, specify solution-dyed acrylic or marine-grade PVC faux leather engineered for outdoor conditions.

Why does velvet watermark?
Water applied to velvet causes individual pile fibres to mat together in the wetted area as surface tension pulls fibres toward the water droplet. When the water evaporates, the fibres dry in this distorted position. The resulting mark is permanent in most natural-fibre velvets once dried. This is why most velvet carries a cleaning code of S.

Is any velvet suitable for areas that need water-based cleaning?
Some synthetic velvets carry a W or WS cleaning code and can be spot-cleaned with water-based products. Confirm the cleaning code on the specific range data sheet before specifying and test compatibility with the specific cleaning product before installation. No natural-fibre velvet should be specified where water-based cleaning will be applied routinely.

When is velvet the right choice despite its limitations?
Velvet is the right choice when its specific combination of properties — tactile quality, depth of colour, inherent Crib 5 for mohair, high Martindale count, and visual character — aligns with the project requirements and the operational environment is compatible with its care requirements. Hotel lobby seating, restaurant banquettes in dry controlled environments, residential sofas, headboards, cushions, and curtains in appropriate light conditions are all applications where correctly specified velvet performs excellently.


For velvet types and comparative performance, see our velvet types compared guide. For hotel velvet specification, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For alternatives in high-cleaning environments, see our faux leather types compared guide.

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Faux Leather For Flooring

Cream Faux Leather Upholstery
Black Faux Leather Upholstery
Black Faux Leather Upholstery

KOTHEA was asked if Faux Leather could be used as flooring. We have experience of putting faux leather just about on any surface: in yachts, in hotels, in villas, on doors, on walls, on bars and of course on furniture. But sadly no experience with floors.

Some of the faux leathers/faux skins we sell have a Martindale / Rub test of over 100,000. This is suitable for HEAVY/CONTRACT upholstery. However to extrapolate that to even light use flooring is risky. The rub test mimics more the action of sitting rather than being walked upon. The forces exerted by walking, running and carrying things on faux leather would be much more than in seating areas. This would be further complicated by the adhesive which would have to be both perfectly bonded throughout the entire area in contact with the floor (possible) and the adhesive would have to be strong (possible).

Having said that I have a sneaky feeling that it is possible in reasonably low traffic areas. After all it is possible to buy leather tiles. Perhaps also the covering applied after laying can improve stability and durability. If you would like me to give a more definitive response on this issue please leave a comment.

Knit Back Fabric Backing

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Some fabrics can be too fragile for use as upholstery unless knit backed. Knit backing is a process whereby, for example, a cotton polyester backing is applied to a lighter weight chenille, silk or cotton.

Essentially the fabric‘s life is increased with better durability and resilience. The handling characteristics of the fabric can be improved; and knit backing also helps prevent seam slippage.

The same principle applies for the fabric whether or not it is to be used for either upholstery or wall covering. There will certainly be other requirements for contract usage, say, in hotels and aviation and also other treatments like fire retardancy or stain protection would be required for contract upholstery.