Choosing fabric for a bespoke sofa, chair or headboard is not only a question of colour and handle. The way the piece is built decides which fabrics will work: deep buttoning, channelling, tight curves, loose covers and long seats each put different demands on the cloth. This guide sets out how to match the fabric to the construction, so the upholsterer receives a fabric that suits the frame, for interior designers, architects and contractors commissioning bespoke upholstery. For choosing by use, see our best upholstery fabric by use guide.
How to Choose Upholstery Fabric: Five Checks
| Check | What to confirm |
|---|---|
| Use | Martindale rub count for the level of wear: 15,000 light domestic, 25,000 general domestic, 40,000 contract |
| Construction | Whether the fabric can be buttoned, channelled, pulled round curves or made into loose covers |
| Width and direction | Fabric width, pile direction and pattern repeat, which set the cutting plan and the quantity |
| Fire | The match test for domestic furniture; BS 5852 Crib 5 or BS 7176 for contract seating |
| Cleaning | The cleaning code, matched to how the piece will be maintained |
Deep Buttoning and Tufting
Deep buttoning pulls the fabric into pleats between the buttons, so the cloth must fold cleanly and recover. Velvet is the traditional choice for a buttoned chesterfield or headboard because the pile hides the fold lines, though it will show pressure marks around each button. Very thick or heavily textured weaves make bulky pleats. Coated fabrics such as faux leather can be buttoned but need a skilled upholsterer to form the pleats. Ask the upholsterer to button a sample before the full order is cut.
Channelled and Fluted Backs
Channelling stitches the fabric into vertical flutes, so the cloth must follow tight curves and the pile or pattern must run the same way in every channel. Velvet channelling is striking but every channel must be cut in the same pile direction, which adds to the quantity. A plain fabric is easier to channel than a pattern, because a pattern must be centred on each flute.
Curved and Sculpted Frames
Rounded backs, tub chairs and sculpted shapes need a fabric with some give, so it can be eased round the curve without puckering. A cut-pile velvet or a soft wool usually handles curves better than a stiff, tightly woven linen or a heavy coated fabric. Discuss the frame with the upholsterer early; a fabric that looked right on the moodboard may not suit the shape.
Loose Covers
Loose covers are removed for cleaning, so shrinkage matters more than on tight upholstery. A pre-washed fabric, such as KOTHEA’s Relax, Restful and Recline Linen, has had most of its residual shrinkage removed before making up. Confirm the cleaning method with the fabric’s cleaning code before specifying; see our upholstery cleaning codes guide.
Long Sofas, Railroading and Pile Direction
Railroading means running the fabric along the length of the sofa rather than up the roll, so a long seat or back can be covered without a seam. It suits plain, non-directional fabrics. Velvet is normally not railroaded, because the pile must run down the back and from the back to the front of the seat on every panel; turning it sideways changes the colour and the way it wears. Check whether a fabric can be railroaded before relying on it for a long seat, and allow for the extra fabric that pile direction needs. See our how much fabric to upholster furniture guide and our pattern matching guide.
Piping and Contrast Details
Piping is cut on the bias from the main fabric or a contrast, and adds to the quantity. Very thick fabrics make bulky piping; a finer contrast fabric is often the better choice. A contrast velvet piping on a linen sofa is a classic detail.
Fragile Fabrics and Backing
Some fabrics are too light for upholstery on their own. A knit backing stabilises a fine silk, chenille or lightweight cotton, improves its handling and helps prevent seam slippage. See our knit back fabric backing note, and check the Martindale rub count once backed.
Fire Rules for Bespoke Furniture
Bespoke furniture for a home must comply with the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations 1988: the cover must pass the cigarette test and, in most cases, the match test, unless it qualifies for a Schedule 3 interliner. See our Crib 5 interliners guide. Bespoke seating for hotels, restaurants and other contract buildings is specified to BS 5852 Crib 5 or BS 7176; see our BS 7176 guide. KOTHEA mohair velvet carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 rating, so it needs no treatment before it reaches the upholsterer.
Briefing the Upholsterer
Give the upholsterer the fabric name, width, composition, rub count, pile direction, pattern repeat and match type, and the fire certificate, and ask them to confirm the quantity against the frame before the order is placed. Order the full quantity in one dye lot. For a complete specification, see our how to write a fabric specification guide. For every KOTHEA upholstery range side by side, see our luxury upholstery fabric page.
Quick answers
How do I choose upholstery fabric for bespoke furniture?
Check five things: the rub count for the level of use, whether the fabric suits the construction (buttoning, channelling, curves or loose covers), the width, pile direction and pattern repeat, the fire rating, and the cleaning code. Ask the upholsterer to confirm the fabric suits the frame and the quantity before ordering.
What is the best fabric for deep buttoning?
For trade use on deep-buttoned sofas, chairs and headboards, velvet is the traditional choice because the pile hides the pleat lines; KOTHEA’s mohair velvets add an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 rating for contract pieces. Very thick or heavily textured weaves make bulky pleats. Ask the upholsterer to button a sample first.
Can velvet be railroaded?
Velvet is normally not railroaded. The pile must run down the back and from the back to the front of the seat on every panel, and turning it sideways changes the colour and the way it wears. Railroading suits plain, non-directional fabrics.
What fabric is best for loose covers?
Choose a fabric with low shrinkage and a cleaning code that suits how the covers will be cleaned. For trade use, KOTHEA’s pre-washed Relax, Restful and Recline Linen have had most residual shrinkage removed before making up.
To request cuttings for a bespoke commission, visit KOTHEA.com/cuttings.
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