Fabric Hand and Tactile Properties: A Guide for Interior Designers

Fabric Hand and Tactile Properties: A Guide for Interior Designers

Fabric hand: The complete tactile character of a fabric — softness, smoothness, warmth, weight, resilience, and drape — assessed by touch and handling.
Why it matters for specification: Hand determines client satisfaction in use more than any other property. A fabric with outstanding technical credentials that feels wrong will generate complaints regardless of its Martindale count or fire rating.
Why it changes: Hand is not fixed. It changes with use, cleaning, humidity, and age — often in ways the specifier did not anticipate.
The communication problem: Hand is subjective and vocabulary-dependent. What one designer calls soft another calls flimsy. Physical samples under agreed conditions are the only reliable basis for client approval.

Every fabric specification involves a tactile decision. A designer handling a sample in a showroom is simultaneously assessing Martindale performance, fire behaviour, cleaning compatibility, and light fastness — but the hand of the fabric is what drives the immediate emotional response and, ultimately, the client’s satisfaction in the finished room. This guide explains the components of fabric hand, the technical factors that produce them, how they differ between the upholstery fabrics most relevant to interior designers, and how hand changes over time in contract use.


The Components of Fabric Hand

Fabric hand is not a single sensation. It is a composite of several distinct tactile properties that combine to produce the overall character a designer or client experiences when handling a fabric. The Kawabata Evaluation System, developed by Japanese researcher Sueo Kawabata in the 1970s and still used in textile research, identifies the primary measurable components of hand as tensile and shear properties, bending stiffness, compression, and surface friction and roughness. For interior designers, these translate into the following practical descriptors.

Softness. The sensation of yielding under gentle pressure. Softness in upholstery fabric is primarily determined by fibre fineness, yarn twist, and pile height or density. Cashmere and fine mohair are the reference points for extreme softness at the top of the market. The softness of a fabric sample held in a showroom is not the same as the softness experienced by a person sitting on upholstered furniture — the filling and construction beneath the fabric significantly affects the perceived softness of the finished piece.

Smoothness. The absence of surface irregularity perceived by a finger drawn across the cloth. A high-lustre mohair velvet in the direction of the pile is extremely smooth — the pile fibres present a continuous, low-friction surface. Against the pile, the same fabric reads as rough because the finger is working against the fibre tips. This directional character of velvet pile is one of the most distinctive tactile experiences in upholstery and the source of the characteristic shading that makes velvet visually responsive to touch and movement.

Warmth. The thermal sensation when the fabric is first touched. Natural protein fibres — wool, mohair, cashmere — feel warm because they are poor thermal conductors; they do not draw heat away from the skin rapidly. Linen and cotton feel cooler to first touch because they conduct heat more readily. Synthetic fibres typically feel neither particularly warm nor particularly cool. This thermal character affects how a fabric is perceived in a room — a pale linen velvet reads visually warm but feels distinctly cooler to the touch than a pale mohair velvet of similar colour.

Weight. The sense of substance when the fabric is lifted or handled. Weight is a function of fibre density, pile height, and the construction of the backing. A heavy fabric suggests durability and permanence. A very light fabric in upholstery can feel insubstantial regardless of its actual Martindale count. Clients frequently conflate weight with quality, which is not always correct but is a consistent perception.

Resilience and recovery. How quickly a fabric returns to its original state after deformation — whether from sitting, pressure, or creasing. Wool and mohair have excellent resilience due to the natural crimp structure of the fibre. When compressed, the crimped fibre springs back. Cotton and linen have lower resilience and are more prone to retaining the impression of pressure over time. This is the difference between a velvet that springs back from a hand impression and one that retains it.

Drape. How a fabric falls and hangs under its own weight when not under tension. Drape is distinct from hand in the technical sense — hand is assessed by touch, drape is observed visually — but the two are closely related. A fabric with low bending stiffness and good weight distribution drapes fluidly. A stiff or heavily backed fabric drapes rigidly. Drape matters most for curtains, where the fall of the fabric in pleats or folds is a primary aesthetic criterion, and for loose upholstery covers where the fabric must conform to curves without puckering.


How Fibre Type Determines Hand

Mohair. The most distinctive hand of any upholstery velvet. The long, smooth, lustrous fibre of the Angora goat produces a pile that is simultaneously slippery and warm — a combination that is immediately identifiable and unlike any other fibre. Running a hand across mohair velvet in the direction of the pile produces almost no friction. Against the pile, the sensation changes to a gentle resistance as the finger lifts the pile tips. The warmth is a protein fibre characteristic. The lustre — visible as directional sheen — is a function of the fibre’s smooth surface, which reflects light rather than scattering it. Mohair velvet is also highly resilient: the pile recovers from pressure quickly, which is why marks from cushions or hands disappear more readily than on cotton velvet.

Cotton velvet. Warmer in appearance than in touch — cotton is a cellulosic fibre and feels slightly cooler than mohair at first contact. The pile is less smooth than mohair because cotton fibres have a more irregular surface than the smooth mohair filament. The drape of cotton velvet is slightly heavier and less fluid than mohair of equivalent pile height. Recovery from pressure is slower and less complete than mohair, meaning crush marks and sitting impressions are more persistent. The handle is soft and pleasant but lacks the distinctly slippery warmth of mohair.

Linen velvet. The most textural of the natural-fibre velvets. Linen fibre has a natural irregularity — the slight variation in diameter along the fibre length — that gives linen velvet a subtly uneven, natural surface unlike the smooth pile of mohair or cotton. The handle is pleasantly dry and cool, which reads as fresh and natural in residential contexts. Linen velvet is less forgiving of pressure marks than mohair and has less resilience. The textural quality is its aesthetic strength: no other velvet has quite this character.

Silk velvet. The most luminous pile of any velvet, with a surface that produces an almost liquid quality of light and shadow. The handle is extremely fine and light — silk velvet feels almost insubstantial compared to mohair or cotton of similar pile height because the fibre itself is much finer. The drape is exceptional: silk velvet falls in deep, fluid folds. The surface is cool to the touch. The fragility of silk velvet — its low abrasion resistance and light fastness — means these tactile qualities are experienced in a context of care and limited use rather than everyday handling.

Cashmere. The reference point for extraordinary softness. The fineness of the cashmere fibre produces a sensation of enveloping warmth and cloud-like softness that no other fibre replicates at the same fineness level. Cashmere velvet — or cashmere-silk velvet blends — is soft to a degree that reads as almost ineffably luxurious. The hand is the primary reason for specifying cashmere; the durability, fire rating, and light fastness are secondary considerations because cashmere fabrics are used where tactile experience is the specification criterion.

Faux leather (PVC). A distinctive hand that communicates durability and cleanability but not warmth or softness. High-specification PVC faux leather has a smooth, slightly firm surface with very low friction. It does not breathe and retains warmth in sustained contact, which is perceived positively in cool environments and negatively in warm ones. The absence of pile or weave texture means there is no directional quality — the hand is the same in all orientations. Clients who have not handled high-quality PVC faux leather before may be surprised by how closely it approximates real leather in surface quality while feeling quite different in temperature and breathability.

Linen (flat-woven). A characteristic cool, slightly dry, slightly rough hand that is immediately identifiable. The natural fibre irregularity is more apparent in flat-woven linen than in linen velvet because the warp and weft structure exposes the fibre surface directly. Linen softens noticeably with use and washing — a new linen upholstery fabric has a crisper, slightly papery quality that relaxes into a softer, more lived-in character over months of use. This evolution of hand is a feature of linen that distinguishes it from synthetic fabrics whose hand is essentially fixed at manufacture.


How Construction Affects Hand

The fibre type is the primary determinant of hand but the construction amplifies or modifies it significantly. Two mohair velvet fabrics from the same fibre can have notably different hands depending on pile height, pile density, backing construction, and finishing.

Pile height affects softness and depth of hand. A longer pile produces a deeper, more enveloping sensation on contact but is more susceptible to crushing and directional disturbance. A shorter, denser pile has a firmer, more controlled surface feel and better resilience to pressure marks. Contract mohair velvets are typically specified with a pile height that balances tactile quality against durability in use.

Yarn twist affects surface smoothness and resilience. Higher-twist yarns produce a firmer, less soft surface but better resilience and reduced pilling tendency. Lower-twist yarns produce a softer, more open pile but may pill more readily and show pressure marks more easily.

Backing construction affects drape and weight. A woven cotton backing gives mohair velvet a firmness and body that supports upholstery construction. A knitted backing produces a more fluid drape. The weight of the backing influences how the fabric behaves when draped over a furniture frame before upholstering — a heavier backing is easier to work with but reduces drape.

Finishing processes — steaming, brushing, and setting — affect the final pile character. A well-finished mohair velvet has a uniform pile direction and a consistent sheen. A poorly finished velvet may show irregular pile direction and uneven surface character even before use.


How Hand Changes Over Time

The hand of an upholstery fabric changes through use in ways that are often not communicated to clients at the point of specification.

Velvet pile flattens in areas of sustained pressure and friction. This is an inherent characteristic of all pile fabrics and is not a fault. In upholstery, the seat area and armrests experience the most pile compression. Mohair velvet recovers well between uses because of the fibre’s natural resilience. Cotton velvet recovers less completely and may show a permanent difference in pile character between heavily and lightly used areas over time. This flattening changes both the tactile and visual character of the fabric — a compressed pile has a different sheen and a different feel from the undisturbed pile on the sides and back of the same piece.

Linen softens with use. A flat-woven linen upholstery fabric has a firmer, slightly papery quality when new that relaxes progressively as the fibres are worn in by use and by the natural absorption and release of atmospheric moisture. This softening is a feature of linen, not a failure. Clients who specify linen upholstery should be informed of this evolution so they are not surprised by the difference between a new piece and a two-year-old piece in the same fabric.

Synthetic fabrics maintain their hand more consistently over time than natural fibres because the polymer structure does not change with use or moisture in the same way. This consistency is an advantage in contract environments where uniformity across a large installation is commercially significant — a hotel that replaces chairs over time needs the new chairs to match the existing ones.

Cleaning affects hand. Dry-cleaned velvet that is cleaned correctly retains its pile character. Velvet that has been wet-cleaned incorrectly may show permanent pile distortion. Faux leather cleaned with incompatible products may show surface dulling or tackiness. When specifying any fabric where hand quality is commercially significant, ensure the recommended cleaning method is part of the client briefing.


Communicating Hand to Clients

Hand is the most subjective dimension of fabric specification and the one most prone to miscommunication between designer and client. A designer who describes a fabric as soft may mean something entirely different from what the client hears. The only reliable communication tool is a physical sample handled by the client under realistic conditions.

Show samples in the context of the finished room wherever possible. A fabric sample held in isolation in a showroom is assessed against the client’s existing mental reference points. The same sample in a furnished room, against the paint colour and flooring of the actual project, reads completely differently — and the hand perceived in that context is closer to the experience of the finished piece.

Describe hand in terms of comparison rather than absolute descriptors. Saying a fabric is softer than cotton velvet but firmer than cashmere gives a client with no prior experience of mohair a reference they can use. Saying it is soft is not useful because soft means different things to different people.

Brief clients on how hand will evolve. A client who buys a linen sofa expecting it to maintain its slightly crisp, fresh character over ten years will be disappointed. A client who is told in advance that linen softens and relaxes with use and develops a more lived-in character will find that evolution satisfying rather than alarming.


Quick answers

What is fabric hand?
Fabric hand is the complete tactile character of a fabric assessed by touch and handling. It encompasses softness, smoothness, warmth, weight, resilience, and drape. In upholstery specification, hand is commercially significant because it determines how a client experiences the finished piece in daily use — and client satisfaction or dissatisfaction with hand is one of the most common sources of post-installation complaint in interior design projects.

What is the difference between fabric hand and drape?
Hand is assessed by touch — it is the tactile sensation produced when a fabric is handled. Drape is assessed visually — it describes how a fabric falls and hangs under its own weight. The two are closely related because both are determined by similar fabric properties: bending stiffness, weight, and structure. A fabric with a fluid, soft hand will typically drape well. A stiff, heavily backed fabric will have a more rigid hand and more structured drape. For upholstery, hand is the primary consideration. For curtains, drape assumes equal or greater importance.

Why does mohair velvet feel different in different directions?
Mohair velvet pile lies in a consistent direction, set during finishing. Running a hand in the direction of the pile produces almost no friction because the smooth fibre tips present a continuous surface. Running a hand against the pile lifts the pile tips and produces a gentle resistance. This directional quality also produces the characteristic shading of velvet — the same fabric appears lighter when viewed with the pile and darker when viewed against it. It is this directionality that gives velvet its depth and visual responsiveness and that makes pile direction a significant consideration in upholstery cutting and making-up.

Will velvet pile flatten with use?
Yes. All pile fabrics flatten in areas of sustained pressure and friction. This is an inherent characteristic and not a fault. Mohair velvet recovers well between uses because of the fibre’s natural resilience. Cotton velvet recovers less completely. The degree of flattening and recovery depends on pile density, pile height, and the intensity of use. In contract upholstery, a denser, shorter pile will show less permanent flattening than a longer, more open pile of the same fibre. Clients should be informed at the point of specification that pile compression in areas of heavy use is a characteristic of the material rather than a product failure.

How does faux leather handle compare to real leather?
High-specification PVC faux leather closely approximates the surface smoothness and firmness of real leather but differs in three important ways. It does not breathe, so it retains heat in sustained contact more than real leather. It has a uniform surface without the natural grain variation and pore irregularity of real leather — the surface is consistent across the entire width of the fabric. And it does not develop patina with age in the way that full-grain real leather does. Real leather softens, moulds slightly to use, and develops a surface character over years that PVC cannot replicate. For most contract upholstery applications these differences are outweighed by the practical advantages of faux leather: consistent colour, no hide-size limitations, and easier maintenance.

How should I present fabric samples to clients?
Show physical samples, not digital images or descriptions. Present samples in the context of the project — against the paint colour, flooring, and other materials being specified — rather than in isolation. Ask the client to handle the sample rather than simply looking at it. Describe hand in comparative terms: softer than X, firmer than Y, warmer than Z. Brief clients on how the hand will evolve with use, particularly for linen and velvet fabrics where the change is significant. For major fabric decisions, leave samples with the client for a week so they can assess them under different light conditions and revisit their response after the initial impression has settled.


For pilling resistance — closely related to fabric hand and surface quality — see our pilling resistance guide. For the specific environments where velvet hand is incompatible with operational requirements, see our when not to use velvet guide.

For fabric type comparisons including hand feel by fibre, see our velvet types compared guide and our faux leather types compared guide. .

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Dye Types and FR Treatment Compatibility: What Interior Designers Need to Know

French Blue Velvet

Dye Types and FR Treatment Compatibility: What Interior Designers Need to Know

The hidden risk: Reactive dyes — used on many cotton, linen, and silk fabrics — can cause progressive fading in the months after FR treatment. The fading is not visible at installation. It develops slowly and cannot be reversed.
The safest dye class for FR-treated fabrics: Vat dyes on cellulosic fibres; acid dyes on protein fibres (wool, mohair, silk). Both form strong bonds resistant to the chemical conditions of FR treatment.
Fibres to approach with caution: Cotton and linen with reactive dyes; fabrics with unknown dye composition.
The practical rule: Always ask the supplier which dye class was used before sending a fabric for FR treatment.

Fire retardant treatment is a routine requirement for contract upholstery and curtains in commercial interiors. What is less widely understood is that the chemical process of FR treatment can interact with certain dye types and cause colour change — sometimes immediately after treatment, and sometimes months later when the problem is much harder to diagnose and impossible to reverse. This guide explains how different dye types are used on the fabrics most relevant to interior designers, which dye types carry the highest risk in FR treatment, and what to confirm with suppliers before committing to treatment.

For how back-coating and wet padding work in plain language, see our how FR treatment works guide. For the fire certification standards that require FR treatment, see our complete guide to BS 5852 Crib 5. For guidance on which fabrics and fibres can be FR treated, see our guide to FR treatment and fibre compatibility. For colour fastness testing, see our colour fastness and crocking guide.


How FR Treatment Works and Why Dyes Matter

The two main methods of applying FR treatment to upholstery and curtain fabrics are back-coating and wet padding. Understanding the difference is essential to understanding the dye interaction risk.

Back-coating applies a chemical compound — typically a phosphorus or halogenated compound suspended in a paste — to the reverse of the fabric. The coating sits on the back face and does not penetrate the face yarns where the dye is located. Provided the back-coating is applied correctly and the fabric is not saturated, back-coating has minimal interaction with the face dyes. The majority of Crib 5 treatments for upholstery fabrics use this method.

Wet padding applies FR chemicals in solution to the whole fabric by running it through a padder — rollers that squeeze the chemical solution into the structure of the cloth. The fabric is then dried and cured. This process is used primarily for curtain fabrics and some lighter upholstery weights. Because the chemical solution penetrates the entire fabric including the face yarns, it comes into direct contact with the dye molecules. This is where dye-FR interaction can occur.

The pH of the FR solution used in wet padding is mildly acidic for phosphorus-based compounds. Certain dye classes are sensitive to acidic conditions. When an acid-sensitive dye is exposed to the mildly acidic FR solution during padding, the bond between the dye molecule and the fibre can be weakened. The weakening may not cause immediate visible colour change. Instead, the dye becomes more susceptible to subsequent degradation by atmospheric pollutants — oxides of nitrogen and sulphur from the environment — which produce acids on the surface of the fabric after treatment. Fading develops progressively over weeks and months. It is not visible at installation and cannot be detected by standard pre-treatment testing.


The Main Dye Classes and Their FR Compatibility

Reactive dyes. The highest-risk dye class for FR treatment. Reactive dyes are used extensively on cellulosic fibres — cotton, linen, viscose — and occasionally on wool and silk blends. They produce bright, vivid colours with good light fastness and excellent wash fastness under normal conditions. The dye molecule forms a covalent chemical bond with the fibre during dyeing. However, this bond is sensitive to acid. The mildly acidic conditions of some FR padding treatments can initiate the breakdown of the dye-fibre bond, making the dye vulnerable to subsequent fading from atmospheric pollutants.

The fading problem with reactive dyes is well documented in the FR treatment industry. It does not affect all reactive dyes equally — different reactive dye variants have different acid sensitivity — but a significant proportion of fading problems encountered by FR treatment companies involve reactive dyes. The problem is compounded by its delayed onset: a fabric that passes visual inspection immediately after treatment may show noticeable fading within three to six months. By the time the fading is visible, installation is complete and remediation is not possible.

The practical advice from experienced FR treatment houses is: where possible, avoid specifying fabrics with reactive dyes for wet-padded FR treatment. If you cannot avoid it — because the fabric is specified and cannot be changed — request that the treatment provider tests a sample and stores it for three to six months before treating the full order. This does not guarantee the full order will behave identically, but it provides the best available advance warning of a fading risk.

Acid dyes. Used on protein fibres — wool, mohair, silk, and some nylon. Acid dyes form strong bonds with protein fibres and are not sensitive to the mildly acidic conditions of FR treatment in the way that reactive dyes are. Back-coated wool and mohair velvets treated for Crib 5 using phosphorus or halogenated back-coating compounds do not typically show dye interaction problems. Acid-dyed silk is more cautious territory because silk is a delicate protein fibre and any chemical exposure requires care, but acid dye instability is not the primary risk for silk in FR treatment.

Vat dyes. The most stable dye class available and the least susceptible to FR treatment interaction. Vat dyes are used on cellulosic fibres — cotton and linen primarily — and produce colours with exceptional light fastness and wash fastness. The dye molecule is insoluble and is locked within the fibre structure rather than bonded chemically at the surface in the same way reactive dyes are. Vat dyes do not react with the acidic conditions of FR treatment and do not show the progressive fading associated with reactive dyes after treatment. Cotton and linen fabrics dyed with vat dyes are among the most FR-treatment-compatible cellulosic fabrics available. The limitation of vat dyes is a smaller colour range and higher dyeing cost compared to reactive dyes, which is why many fabric producers use reactive dyes as their default.

Disperse dyes. Used on polyester and acetate. Disperse dyes are forced into synthetic fibres under high heat and pressure. They are virtually insoluble in water and chemically stable. FR treatment of polyester fabrics, particularly Trevira CS which is inherently flame resistant, does not typically involve the same dye interaction risks as cellulosic FR treatment. Disperse-dyed polyester fabrics are generally low-risk for FR treatment. A known issue with disperse dyes is discolouration from oxides of nitrogen in the atmosphere — a separate problem from FR treatment interaction but worth noting for polyester fabrics in high-pollution urban environments.

Direct dyes. Used on cellulosics. Direct dyes have good substantivity for cotton and linen but moderate wash fastness — they are relatively water-soluble. The FR treatment interaction risk is lower than for reactive dyes because the dye-fibre bond mechanism is different, but direct-dyed fabrics should still be assessed for colour stability before FR treatment. Their water solubility means they are somewhat susceptible to the aqueous conditions of wet padding regardless of pH.

Sulphur dyes. Used on cellulosics, producing blacks, dark browns, and dark navies. Sulphur dyes have been associated with isolated fading problems after FR treatment — typically affecting specific yarn colours within a fabric rather than the entire cloth, making the problem appear as uneven colour change across the weave. This is relatively uncommon but has been observed.


Which Fabrics Carry the Highest Risk

Cotton curtain fabrics in saturated colours — particularly bright reds, coral, fuchsia, and vivid blues and greens — are most likely to be dyed with reactive dyes and carry the highest risk of post-treatment fading. Linen curtain fabrics in the same colour range carry comparable risk. The deeper and more saturated the colour, the more likely reactive dyes are involved.

Pale, muted, or neutral colours in cotton and linen are sometimes dyed with direct or vat dyes, which carry lower risk. However, the dye class cannot be determined from the colour alone. The only way to confirm the dye type is to ask the supplier.

Wool, mohair, and silk upholstery fabrics dyed with acid dyes and back-coated rather than wet-padded are the lowest-risk category for FR treatment colour interaction. This is one of the practical advantages of specifying mohair velvet with an inherent Crib 5 certification: the need for wet-padded FR treatment is eliminated entirely, removing the dye interaction risk from the specification chain.

Synthetic fabrics — polyester, Trevira CS, nylon — are generally low risk for dye interaction in FR treatment, with the specific disperse dye caveat noted above.


What to Ask Before Sending a Fabric for FR Treatment

Before sending any fabric to an FR treatment company for Crib 5 treatment, confirm the following with the fabric supplier.

Which dye class was used on this fabric? If the supplier cannot answer this question, treat the fabric as reactive-dyed and proceed with caution. Most reputable fabric suppliers can provide this information from their mill technical data sheet.

Has this fabric been FR treated before, and were any colour changes observed? A fabric that has been successfully FR treated and stored without fading gives some reassurance. A fabric that has not been treated before carries the full unknown risk.

Is the colour in the current batch produced by the same dyehouse as previous batches? Dye lot variation between batches extends to dye class selection in some mills, where the dyehouse may substitute a dye type if the standard dye is temporarily unavailable.

Once you have confirmed the dye class, convey this information to the FR treatment company before treatment begins. Experienced treatment companies maintain records of which fabrics and dye classes have caused problems and can advise whether a screen test — treating a small sample and storing it for an extended period before treating the full order — is warranted.


The FR Treatment Process and Colour Change: Timing and Detection

Immediate colour change visible at the point of treatment is typically caused by a direct chemical reaction between the FR compound and the dye. This type of problem is detectable during the treatment process and gives the treatment company an immediate opportunity to halt treatment and contact the specifier. It is the minority of dye-FR problems.

Progressive fading developing over weeks to months after treatment is caused by the mechanism described earlier — the FR treatment weakens the dye-fibre bond, making the dye susceptible to subsequent degradation by atmospheric pollutants. This type of problem is not detectable at the time of treatment and will not be evident at the point of installation. It develops after the fabric is in situ. By the time it is noticed, the treatment cannot be reversed and the fading cannot be corrected without replacing the fabric.

This is the most commercially damaging outcome of dye-FR interaction. It occurs after the project is complete, generates a complaint the designer cannot easily resolve, and involves a fault that originated in the specification chain before installation. The only effective mitigation is to avoid the risk at the specification stage by confirming the dye class before specifying the fabric for FR treatment.


Quick answers

Can any fabric be FR treated without colour change risk?
No fabric carries zero risk, but the risk varies significantly by dye class and treatment method. Wool and mohair fabrics dyed with acid dyes and back-coated for Crib 5 carry the lowest practical risk of colour change from FR treatment. Cellulosic fabrics — cotton, linen — dyed with vat dyes and wet-padded carry low risk. Cellulosic fabrics dyed with reactive dyes and wet-padded carry the highest risk of progressive fading. Always confirm the dye class with the supplier before specifying a fabric for FR treatment.

What are reactive dyes and why are they a problem for FR treatment?
Reactive dyes are a dye class widely used on cotton, linen, and viscose that produce vivid colours with good light and wash fastness under normal conditions. The dye molecule forms a covalent chemical bond with the fibre during dyeing. This bond is sensitive to acidic conditions. The mildly acidic FR solutions used in some wet-padding treatments can weaken the bond, making the dye susceptible to progressive fading from atmospheric pollutants in the months after treatment. The fading is not visible at installation. Reactive dyes are the dye class most frequently associated with post-treatment fading problems documented by specialist FR treatment houses.

Does back-coating affect fabric colour?
Back-coating, applied to the reverse of the fabric, does not typically affect the face colour provided the treatment is applied correctly and the fabric is not saturated. It is the wet-padding process — where FR chemicals in solution are applied to the whole fabric — that carries the dye interaction risk. Back-coating is the standard method for upholstery fabric Crib 5 treatment and has minimal colour impact on the face dyes under normal application conditions.

How can I tell if a fabric has been dyed with reactive dyes?
You cannot determine the dye class from visual inspection or handling alone. The dye class must be confirmed with the fabric supplier, who should be able to provide this information from the mill technical data sheet. As a general guide, cotton and linen fabrics in saturated, vivid colours — bright reds, corals, vivid blues and greens — are more likely to be reactive-dyed. Pale and muted neutrals in the same fibres may use direct or vat dyes. This is a guide only and cannot substitute for direct confirmation.

What should I do if I cannot avoid specifying a reactive-dyed fabric for FR treatment?
Request that the FR treatment company treats a sample piece and stores it under normal conditions for three to six months before treating the full order. This does not guarantee that the full order will behave identically, but it provides the best available advance warning of a fading risk. Brief the client on the risk before treatment and document the briefing. If fading develops after installation, having documented the risk identification and mitigation steps provides important protection.

Is mohair velvet at risk from FR treatment colour change?
Mohair velvet that carries an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment does not require FR treatment and therefore carries no dye-FR interaction risk. This is one of the practical advantages of specifying correctly certified mohair velvet for contract use: the treatment stage and its associated colour risks are removed from the specification chain entirely. Mohair velvet that requires topical treatment — because the specific range does not carry an inherent Crib 5 certification — is typically back-coated rather than wet-padded, which also carries low colour interaction risk as noted above.


For guidance on which fibres and fabric types can be FR treated, see our guide to FR treatment and fibre compatibility. For the fire certification standards that require treatment, see our Crib 5 guide.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Colour Fastness and Crocking: Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers

Orange, Black and red colourful velvets

Colour Fastness and Crocking: A Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers

Crocking grade minimum for contract upholstery: Grade 4 dry / Grade 3 wet (ISO 105-X12 grey scale)
Light fastness minimum for contract interiors: ISO 105-B02 grade 5 — grade 6 for south-facing or high-light environments
Highest crocking risk: Dark colourways, velvet pile fabrics, deeply saturated reds and navies
Reverse crocking risk: New denim, dark throw cushions, and clothing transferring dye onto light upholstery

Colour fastness describes how well a fabric retains its colour when exposed to the agents most likely to cause change: light, rubbing, cleaning, and moisture. Crocking is a specific type of colour fastness failure in which excess dye transfers from one surface to another through friction. Both are routine specification criteria for contract fabric but are consistently underspecified in residential projects, which is where most complaints about colour change and dye transfer originate.

This guide explains the two tests that matter most — ISO 105-B02 for light fastness and ISO 105-X12 for crocking — how to read the grades, which fabrics and colourways carry the highest risk, and what to specify to avoid problems in use. For colour naming, systems, and metamerism — why the same colour looks different in different light — see our colour naming and specification guide. For light fastness guidance specific to room orientation and project environment, see our complete guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale. For dye types and their interaction with FR treatment, see our post on dye types and FR treatment compatibility.


The Two Tests That Matter

Colour fastness is not a single test. It is a family of tests under the ISO 105 series, each measuring resistance to a specific agent. For interior fabric specification, two tests are routinely relevant and should appear on every contract fabric data sheet.

ISO 105-B02: Colour fastness to light. This test measures how resistant a fabric’s colour is to degradation by light. A xenon arc lamp simulates sunlight and the fabric is exposed for a controlled duration. The result is graded against the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8, where grade 1 indicates very poor light fastness and grade 8 indicates the highest possible resistance. For a full explanation of this test and the Blue Wool Scale, see our light fastness guide.

ISO 105-X12: Colour fastness to rubbing (crocking). This test measures how much dye transfers from a fabric onto other surfaces through friction. The fabric is rubbed with a standardised white cloth using a crockmeter — a machine that applies controlled pressure and movement — under both dry and wet conditions. The degree of staining on the white cloth is assessed using the grey scale for staining, graded from 1 to 5. Grade 5 indicates no staining. Grade 1 indicates severe staining. Most contract specifications require a minimum of grade 4 for dry rubbing and grade 3 for wet rubbing.


Understanding Crocking

Crocking occurs when dye that has not fully bonded to the fabric fibre transfers onto another surface through friction. Every dyed fabric contains some proportion of unfixed dye after manufacture. The degree of crocking depends on the dye class used, the dyeing process, the fibre type, and whether the fabric has been adequately washed and finished after dyeing to remove surplus dye.

Dry crocking is caused by mechanical abrasion alone. A fabric in good condition and correctly dyed will typically achieve a better dry crocking grade than wet. Wet crocking occurs when moisture is present — from perspiration, cleaning, or humidity — and is almost always worse than dry crocking because water molecules help loosen dye and carry it to the adjacent surface. This is why a fabric that appears stable in dry conditions can transfer colour noticeably on a humid day or after light spillage.

The fabrics most susceptible to crocking are those with rough or open pile surfaces, dark saturated colourways, and fibres that are difficult to dye with strong molecular bonds. Velvet is the most relevant category for interior designers. The pile surface of velvet creates more friction points than a flat-woven fabric and dye at the pile tips is more exposed to contact than dye within the body of a woven yarn. Dark velvet colourways — deep navy, rich red, dark green, charcoal — are dyed with higher concentrations of pigment and carry greater crocking risk than pale or mid-tone colourways of the same fabric.

Denim is the most commonly cited source of reverse crocking onto upholstery. New denim is typically dyed with indigo, which physically lodges within the fibre structure rather than forming a covalent bond. Indigo is easily dislodged by friction and moisture and will transfer readily onto light-coloured upholstery, particularly in warm or humid conditions. In a hotel or hospitality environment this is commercially significant: a guest in new jeans sitting on a pale upholstered chair can leave a visible mark within a single visit.


Crocking Grades: What They Mean in Practice

Grade 5: No staining. No dye transfers to the rubbing cloth. Rarely achieved by dark saturated colourways on pile fabrics.

Grade 4: Slight staining. A small amount of dye transfers but is barely visible. The minimum acceptable grade for dry crocking in most contract specifications.

Grade 3: Moderate staining. Visible dye transfer that would be noticeable in use. The minimum acceptable grade for wet crocking in most contract specifications. Grade 3 dry would indicate elevated crocking risk and should prompt discussion with the supplier before specifying for high-contact applications.

Grade 2: Significant staining. Noticeable colour transfer likely in use. Not acceptable for contract upholstery. May be flagged as acceptable for cushion or decorative applications only.

Grade 1: Severe staining. The fabric will visibly transfer colour in normal use. Not acceptable for any upholstery application.

The accepted industry minimum for contract upholstery fabrics is grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet. For hotel and hospitality environments where guests wear a wide range of clothing and the fabric is cleaned frequently, specifying grade 4 for both dry and wet provides better protection. Always confirm both grades — dry and wet — before specifying, as some suppliers report only the dry grade.


Crocking and Velvet: Specific Considerations

Velvet requires particular attention in crocking specification for two reasons. First, the pile structure creates more contact surface than a flat-woven fabric, increasing the potential for dye transfer in use. Second, velvet in dark colourways is dyed with higher pigment concentrations to achieve the depth of colour that makes dark velvet visually distinctive. The combination of pile structure and high pigment load means that dark velvets consistently achieve lower crocking grades than the same fabric in pale colourways.

This does not mean dark velvet cannot be specified for contract use. Mohair velvet in particular achieves good colour fastness due to the natural receptivity of the mohair fibre to acid dyes and the strong molecular bonds those dyes form with protein fibres. A well-dyed dark mohair velvet will typically achieve grade 3 to 4 dry and grade 3 wet, which is within the acceptable range for contract use. The key is confirming the actual grade for the specific colourway before specifying, not assuming a single grade applies across all colourways in the range.

Pale colourways of any velvet carry the reverse crocking risk: dye transfer from clothing onto the fabric. This is most acute with white, cream, and very pale colourways in environments where guests may be wearing freshly laundered dark clothing or new denim. For hotel seating in these colourways, confirm the crocking grade of the fabric in the context of incoming dye transfer, not just outgoing.

For a full comparison of velvet fibre types and their relevant specification data, see our velvet types compared guide.


Light Fastness and Crocking: How They Relate

Light fastness and crocking are distinct tests measuring different forms of colour stability, but they are both dye-related and a fabric that performs poorly on one will often perform poorly on both if the underlying dye chemistry is weak. A fabric dyed with reactive dyes, for example, will typically show moderate light fastness and may show crocking susceptibility, particularly after FR treatment. A fabric dyed with vat dyes — the most stable dye class — will achieve excellent light fastness and low crocking risk. Understanding the dye type used is therefore useful context when evaluating both grades.

The practical relationship for specifiers is as follows. A fabric that achieves light fastness grade 6 and crocking grade 4 dry is a well-dyed fabric with strong molecular dye-fibre bonds throughout. A fabric that achieves light fastness grade 3 and crocking grade 2 dry has weak dye-fibre bonds and is likely to show visible colour change and dye transfer in use within months. Neither extreme is always obvious from looking at the fabric in a showroom.

Always request both grades from the supplier before specifying for contract use. A supplier who cannot provide both grades — either because the fabric has not been tested or because the grades are not published — is a supplier whose fabric should not be specified for contract without independent testing.


Colour Fastness After FR Treatment

FR treatment can affect colour fastness. Back-coating, the most common method of applying Crib 5 treatment to upholstery fabrics, involves applying a chemical compound to the reverse of the fabric. Provided the treatment is applied correctly and does not penetrate the face of the fabric, it typically has no effect on the colour fastness or crocking grade of the face fabric.

Wet padding, used for certain curtain and lighter-weight fabrics, applies FR chemicals to the fabric in solution. Reactive dyes are known to be sensitive to the mild acidic conditions involved in some FR padding treatments. In some cases, fading can develop in the months following treatment — not immediately after, but progressively as atmospheric pollutants interact with the treated fabric. This is not visible at the time of installation and cannot be detected by standard pre-treatment testing. If specifying a fabric with reactive dyes for FR treatment, confirm with the treatment provider whether fading has been observed with that dye class on similar fabrics, and request sample swatches treated and stored for three to six months before committing to a full order.

For full detail on dye types and FR treatment interactions, see our post on dye types and FR treatment compatibility.


What to Check Before Specifying

Request the ISO 105-X12 crocking grade for both dry and wet conditions, and for the specific colourway you are ordering. Crocking grades can vary significantly between colourways within the same range, particularly between dark and pale colourways. A grade reported for the standard or mid-tone colourway in a range may not reflect the performance of the darkest available colourway.

Request the ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade for the specific colourway. As with crocking, light fastness varies between colourways and a dark colourway may achieve a higher grade than a pale one in the same range.

If the fabric is to be FR treated, confirm the dye class and whether fading problems have been observed with similar fabrics and treatments. Ask the treatment provider directly, not just the fabric supplier.

For hotel and hospitality projects, consider the reverse crocking risk for pale upholstery. The fabric’s own crocking grade tells you how much dye will transfer out. It does not tell you how resistant the fabric surface is to incoming dye transfer from guests’ clothing. Pale, tight-woven, or coated fabrics are more resistant to incoming dye transfer than pale velvet or pale linen.


Quick answers

What is crocking in upholstery fabric?
Crocking is the transfer of excess dye from a fabric onto another surface through friction. It occurs when dye has not fully bonded to the fibre during dyeing, leaving surplus pigment on or near the surface that is dislodged by contact. Crocking can be dry, caused by mechanical friction alone, or wet, where moisture helps carry the dye to the adjacent surface. Wet crocking is almost always worse than dry. It is tested to ISO 105-X12 and graded 1 to 5, with grade 5 meaning no transfer and grade 1 meaning severe transfer. The minimum acceptable grades for contract upholstery are grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet.

Which fabrics crock the most?
Dark saturated colourways of pile fabrics — particularly velvet — carry the highest crocking risk. The pile surface creates more friction points than a flat-woven fabric and dark colourways are dyed with higher pigment concentrations. Denim is the most commonly cited source of reverse crocking onto upholstery, particularly onto pale fabrics. New denim dyed with indigo can transfer blue dye onto light-coloured seating on first contact. Cotton velvet in dark colourways has higher crocking risk than mohair velvet in comparable colourways due to the stronger molecular bond formed between acid dyes and protein fibres.

What crocking grade should I specify for hotel upholstery?
For hotel and hospitality upholstery, specify a minimum of grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet to ISO 105-X12. For pale upholstery in environments where guests wear a wide range of clothing, consider the reverse crocking risk from incoming dye transfer and prefer fabrics with tighter weave structures or protective finishes. For dark velvet in high-contact seating, confirm the specific colourway crocking grade with the supplier before ordering, as grades can vary significantly between the darkest and lightest colourways in the same range.

Does FR treatment affect crocking and colour fastness?
Back-coating, the most common method for upholstery, typically does not affect the face colour of the fabric if applied correctly. Wet padding treatments used for curtains and lighter fabrics can affect fabrics dyed with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes are sensitive to mild acidic conditions and can fade progressively in the months following treatment, a problem that is not visible at installation. If specifying a fabric with reactive dyes for FR treatment, confirm with the treatment provider whether this has been observed with similar fabrics.

What is the difference between crocking and light fastness?
Crocking is the transfer of dye to other surfaces through friction, tested to ISO 105-X12. Light fastness is the resistance of a fabric’s colour to degradation by light exposure, tested to ISO 105-B02 and graded on the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8. Both reflect the quality of the dye-fibre bond, and a fabric with weak dye chemistry will often perform poorly on both. They are separate tests and a fabric must be tested to both standards to report both grades. A high Martindale rub count does not imply good crocking or light fastness — these are entirely separate properties.

Can new jeans stain my upholstery?
Yes. New denim is typically dyed with indigo, which physically lodges within the cotton fibre rather than forming a chemical bond. Indigo transfers readily onto adjacent surfaces through friction, particularly in warm or humid conditions. The risk is highest with pale upholstery fabrics, particularly those with open or pile surfaces. Tight-woven, solution-dyed, or coated fabrics are more resistant to incoming dye transfer than velvet or linen. In hotel environments with pale seating, this is a practical specification consideration rather than a theoretical one.


For specification data on individual Kothea ranges see the mohair velvet, upholstery linen, and faux leather product pages.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Hotel Fabric Specification Guide: Martindale, Crib 5, Cleaning and Dye Lots

Anouska Hempel Design

How to Specify Fabric for Hotel and Hospitality Projects: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers

Minimum Martindale: 40,000 rubs (bedroom) / 60,000 rubs (restaurant and bar) / 80,000–100,000 rubs (lobby)
Fire standard: BS 7176 Medium Hazard — not just Crib 5
Cleaning code: W or WS preferred — S-coded fabrics are often incompatible with hotel housekeeping
Download: Hotel fabric specification checklist (PDF)

Hotel and hospitality fabric specification is categorically different from residential work. The same fabric that performs well in a client’s drawing room will fail visibly within months in a hotel bedroom. The difference is not only the volume of use but the nature of that use: guests treat hotel furniture differently from their own, housekeeping applies chemicals that residential cleaning never encounters, and the fire authority expects documentation that a residential project never requires. This guide covers every dimension of hotel fabric specification, from Martindale thresholds by room type to dye lot consistency across multi-phase projects.

For the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale, fabric care symbols and cleaning codes, and velvet types compared.


Understand the Project Before Specifying Any Fabric

Before selecting a fabric, confirm the following with the client or project manager. The answers determine every specification decision that follows.

Brand tier and refurbishment cycle. A budget hotel expecting to refurbish every five years has different durability requirements from a five-star property projecting a ten-year lifecycle. The longer the expected service life, the higher the Martindale threshold should be.

Occupancy pattern. A hotel running at 90% year-round occupancy subjects its furniture to dramatically more use than a seasonal resort. A 24-hour city-centre hotel has different requirements from a boutique property with a primarily weekend leisure clientele.

Housekeeping regime. Ask what cleaning products are used on upholstered surfaces. Many hotels use alkaline-based multi-purpose cleaners across all surfaces. These are effective at removing soiling but can degrade the back-coating on topically treated fabrics over time. If the housekeeping contractor uses a standard alkaline spray on upholstered chairs, specify fabrics with a W or WS cleaning code, or confirm that the specific fabric survives the cleaning agent in use. Solvent-coded fabrics coded S require specialist in-situ cleaning and are not compatible with standard hotel housekeeping routines unless a specialist cleaning contract is in place.

Fire risk assessment category. Under the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005, the responsible person for the building must carry out a fire risk assessment and procure furnishings accordingly. For most hotel environments the relevant standard is BS 7176 Medium Hazard. Confirm the specific hazard category with the fire officer or the client’s fire safety consultant before specifying.

Project phasing. A hotel refurbished in phases over two to three years will need fabric from the same dye lot across phases, or a supplier able to replicate the colourway in future batches. This is the most frequently overlooked risk in large hotel projects and the one most likely to create a visible inconsistency across rooms completed at different times.


Martindale Thresholds by Room Type

No single Martindale figure applies across an entire hotel. Different areas have different use intensities and the fabric specification should reflect this. These thresholds are industry guidelines rather than formal standards and should be adjusted based on fibre type, construction, and project conditions. The following figures represent the minimum acceptable for each area in a standard UK hotel. For premium properties with longer refurbishment cycles, specify 20,000 to 30,000 rubs above each figure.

Hotel bedroom: desk chair, occasional chair, chaise. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs. Guest bedrooms receive regular but not continuous use. A single bedroom chair may be sat in by two guests per night at occupancy, which is low by contract standards but higher than a comparable chair in a private home. 40,000 rubs provides adequate headroom for a five-year refurbishment cycle at typical occupancy.

Hotel bedroom: headboard. Minimum 25,000 Martindale rubs. Headboards are subject to contact rather than seated abrasion. Hair products, moisturisers, and leaning are the primary wear factors. A fabric with good abrasion resistance at 25,000 rubs and a stain-resistant finish is appropriate for most hotel bedroom headboards. For boutique hotels expecting a longer first-refurbishment interval, specify 40,000 rubs. See the headboard section below for fire rating considerations specific to this application.

Restaurant and dining seating. Minimum 60,000 Martindale rubs. Restaurant seating in a busy hotel receives sustained use from breakfast through dinner service, often with multiple seatings per day. Food and beverage spills are frequent. The fabric must combine high abrasion resistance with good stain resistance and a cleaning code compatible with damp wiping between services. High-performance faux leather, often tested to 100,000 or more Martindale rubs or equivalent methods, is one of the most practical specifications for high-volume restaurant seating. For properties where aesthetics require a woven fabric, specify a minimum of 60,000 rubs with a stain-resistant finish.

Bar and lounge seating. Minimum 60,000 Martindale rubs. Bar seating receives the most demanding use of any upholstered surface in a hotel. Guests sit for extended periods, often in close-fitting clothing that generates sustained friction, and spills involving alcoholic beverages are common. For bar stools and high-seat bar chairs where the seating surface is under direct and continuous pressure, 80,000 rubs is a more defensible specification. Alcohol can also degrade certain topical fabric finishes, which is a reason to favour inherently resistant fabrics or faux leather in bar applications.

Hotel lobby seating. Minimum 60,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs depending on the lobby’s function. A lobby used primarily as a transit space with limited seating use can be specified at 60,000 rubs. A lobby that doubles as a working space, café, or meeting point and receives continuous use throughout the day requires 80,000 to 100,000 rubs. Lobby furniture is also highly visible and first-impressions critical, which means early visible wear is commercially significant regardless of actual structural failure.

Meeting room and event space seating. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs. Meeting room chairs receive intense but intermittent use. A conference chair may be occupied for six to eight hours during a full-day event and then unused for days. 40,000 rubs is sufficient for most meeting room applications. For chairs used in training rooms or learning environments with continuous daily occupation, specify 60,000 rubs.

Spa and wellness seating. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs, with additional consideration of moisture and skincare product resistance. Guests using spa facilities arrive in robes or swimwear, and skincare products including oils and lotions come into contact with seating surfaces. Specify fabrics whose cleaning code permits water-based cleaning and confirm compatibility with the specific products used in the spa. Faux leather is often the most practical choice for spa seating.


Fire Rating for Hotel Environments

The fire standard for most UK hotel upholstery is BS 7176 Medium Hazard. This standard incorporates BS 5852 Crib 5 and additionally requires the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak test to simulate cleaning. The specification document must state the specific foam used in the test, as BS 7176 is a composite test of fabric and filling combined, not of the fabric alone.

In practice, many fabrics that pass BS 5852 Crib 5 can be used to achieve BS 7176 Medium Hazard when combined with the appropriate filling, but BS 7176 is a broader composite standard with additional requirements including cigarette, match, and water-soak testing. The difference is also in the documentation: a BS 7176 certificate names the end-use environment and the foam specification, making it a more defensible document for a contract project. For hotel upholstery, specify BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 and request the full certificate naming the foam used in the test. Always request full test certificates rather than relying on generic compliance statements.

For mohair velvet that achieves a Crib 5 pass without topical treatment, confirm that the specific range has been independently tested to BS 5852 and request the test certificate. Where applicable, the certificate should also demonstrate compliance to BS 7176 Medium Hazard or indicate the foam configuration under which the test was conducted.

For curtains in hotel bedrooms and public areas, the applicable standard is BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, which is a separate standard from BS 5852 and governs vertically hanging fabrics. The two standards are not interchangeable. A Crib 5 certificate for an upholstery fabric does not qualify the same fabric for use as a contract curtain.

For full detail on the Crib 5 test, inherent versus topical certification, and BS 7176 hazard categories, see our complete guide to BS 5852 Crib 5.


The Hotel Cleaning Regime and What It Means for Fabric Specification

The housekeeping regime is the single most underspecified variable in hotel fabric selection. Fabrics are routinely tested in laboratory conditions, but hotel cleaning products introduce chemical stresses that standard abrasion tests do not replicate.

Standard hotel housekeeping uses multi-purpose alkaline cleaners for daily surface cleaning across guest rooms and public areas. These products, typically in the pH 8 to 11 range, are effective against the greases, body oils, and food residues that accumulate on upholstered surfaces. However, alkaline cleaners can progressively reduce the effectiveness of some topical FR treatments and may cause surface dulling or discolouration on certain pile fabrics. Cleaning codes indicate suitable cleaning methods but do not guarantee resistance to specific commercial cleaning chemicals.

The practical consequence for specification is as follows. A fabric with a topical Crib 5 treatment and a solvent-only cleaning code (S) is often incompatible with standard hotel housekeeping unless a specialist cleaning regime is in place. Cleaning codes indicate suitable methods but do not guarantee resistance to specific commercial cleaning chemicals. Prefer fabrics suitable for water-based cleaning (W or WS), or confirm compatibility with the actual cleaning products used by the hotel’s housekeeping contractor before finalising the specification. In most hotel projects, the simpler solution is to specify fabrics whose FR certification does not depend on topical treatment, or to select faux leather or other wipe-clean surfaces for high-contact areas.

Deep cleaning of upholstered furniture in hotels typically occurs two to four times per year, using specialist upholstery cleaning services. At this frequency, cumulative chemical exposure is significant over the course of a five or ten-year refurbishment cycle. When specifying a fabric for a long-lifecycle hotel project, ask the supplier to confirm the fabric’s resistance to the specific cleaning agents the hotel uses, and request confirmation in writing before finalising the specification.


Light Fastness in Hotel Environments

Hotel bedrooms present a wide range of light exposure conditions. A north-facing bedroom on the fourth floor of an urban hotel receives very little natural light. A south-facing suite on a high floor with full-height glazing may receive intense direct sunlight for much of the day. The same fabric specified throughout a hotel will perform very differently in these two environments.

For hotel bedrooms with standard glazing and mixed orientations, specify grade 5 where possible for upholstery fabrics and curtains. For south-facing bedrooms, suites with large glazed areas, and hotel lobbies with skylights, specify grade 6 or above. For glazed atriums and hotel exteriors or terraces, specify grade 7 to 8 and use specialist outdoor-rated fabrics.

Modern hotel glazing frequently incorporates low-e coating or UV-filtering film, which reduces UV transmission and can extend the effective service life of a fabric beyond what the grade alone would suggest. If the project specification includes high-performance glazing, factor this into the light fastness requirement but do not reduce the grade below 5 on that basis. Glazing specifications can change during a refurbishment and fabrics need to perform adequately under worst-case light conditions.

For full guidance on light fastness grades and what they mean by room orientation, see our guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.


Dye Lot Consistency Across Large Projects

A hotel project may specify the same fabric across 200 bedrooms, three dining areas, and a lobby, with installation spread over two to three years across multiple phases. Unless dye lot consistency is managed proactively, the rooms completed in phase one will have a subtly different colour from those completed in phase three.

Dye lot variation is a normal property of any dyed fabric. Even the same colourway produced by the same mill in the same month can show variation between rolls that is invisible side by side but visible when comparing a freshly installed chair with one installed eighteen months earlier. In a hotel where guests move between rooms, this variation is commercially significant.

The practical approach is as follows. At the point of specification, confirm with the supplier the minimum quantity that can be reserved from a single dye lot for the full project. For very large projects, request that the supplier weave the full quantity from the same yarn batch and production run where possible. Where this is not possible, establish the supplier’s tolerance standards for dye lot variation and ensure that comparison samples are retained from the first delivery for matching against subsequent deliveries.

For phased projects where new fabric cannot be reserved in advance, specify the colourway and confirm with the supplier that the range will remain in production for the duration of the project. Discontinued colourways mid-project are the most common cause of unresolvable dye lot inconsistency in hotel refurbishments. For dye lot reservation, cuttings, custom colour matching, and lead time planning across a phased contract, see our lead times, cuttings and custom colour matching guide.


Headboards

Hotel bedroom headboards present a specific specification challenge. The fire standard applicable to headboards is less universally agreed than for seating. BS 5852 is explicitly a test for upholstered seating. Whether a headboard, as a wall-mounted or freestanding fixed element, falls under the same seating standard or under a separate wall-covering or surface-finishing standard depends on how it is constructed and installed.

A headboard that is freestanding or attached to the bed frame and upholstered in the same way as a sofa is often treated as upholstered furniture and specified to BS 5852 Crib 5. A headboard that is fixed to the wall and forms part of the wall surface may be treated as a surface finish and be subject to BS 476 Part 7 or the surface spread of flame classification relevant to that building. Confirm with the fire officer and the hotel’s fire safety consultant which standard applies to the headboard construction specified in the project.

For Martindale specification of headboard fabric, 25,000 rubs is adequate for most hotel bedroom applications. The primary wear on a headboard is contact from hair, hair products, and leaning, rather than the sustained abrasion of seated upholstery. A stain-resistant finish is more valuable on a headboard than an elevated rub count.


Curtains in Hotel Bedrooms and Public Areas

Contract curtain fabrics in hotel bedrooms must meet BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. This is a separate standard from the upholstery fire standards and governs vertically hanging fabrics. The test involves a vertical flame applied to the hanging fabric and measures flame spread and post-flame smouldering. Type B is the standard for most hotel applications. Type C applies to NHS and healthcare environments with more frequent laundering requirements.

Most decorative curtain fabrics require topical treatment to meet BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. Some inherently fire-resistant fabrics, including certain Trevira CS constructions, meet the standard without treatment. The treatment process for curtains involves impregnation or dipping rather than back-coating, and affects different fabric types differently. Sheer and lightweight fabrics are particularly susceptible to visible changes after treatment. Confirm the suitability of the specific fabric for curtain FR treatment with the supplier before specifying.

For hotel bedrooms with south or west-facing windows, curtain light fastness requires the same attention as upholstery. A curtain fabric that faces direct afternoon sun will fade at the fold lines before the body of the fabric shows colour change, creating an irregular striped effect that is difficult to remedy without full replacement. Specify grade 6 or above for curtain fabrics in hotel bedrooms with significant sun exposure.


Kothea Fabrics for Hotel Specification

Mohair velvet from Kothea achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 across the active mohair ranges and carries independently certified Crib 5 passes achieved without topical treatment on the ranges tested. The combination of high durability and FR certification without treatment makes mohair velvet suitable for hotel bedroom seating, lobby furniture, restaurant seating at the appropriate rub count, and bar seating at the higher end of the range.

Faux Leather 3 from Kothea achieves in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating and a wipe-clean surface. Its cleaning code is compatible with water-based hotel housekeeping products. It is suitable for restaurant seating, bar seating, spa seating, headboards, and wall panelling in hotel environments where a wipe-clean surface is required. The 140 cm width and 20-plus colourways make it practical across multiple areas within a single project.

Recline Linen from Kothea achieves 80,000 Martindale rubs and is suitable for hotel bedroom occasional chairs and low-use contract seating where a natural linen aesthetic is specified. Fire treatment is required for contract use.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, cleaning codes, and light fastness grades, see the mohair velvet upholstery page, the faux leather upholstery page, and the upholstery linen page.


Quick answers

What Martindale rub count do I need for hotel upholstery?
For hotel bedroom chairs and occasional seating, specify a minimum of 40,000 Martindale rubs. For restaurant and bar seating, specify a minimum of 60,000 rubs, with 80,000 rubs preferred for high-volume bar seating. For hotel lobby seating in continuous use throughout the day, specify 80,000 to 100,000 rubs. For hotel bedroom headboards, 25,000 rubs is the minimum with a stain-resistant finish. These figures are minimums for a standard five-year refurbishment cycle. For premium properties with a ten-year cycle, add 20,000 to 30,000 rubs to each threshold. For full guidance on the Martindale rub test and how rub counts translate to classification, see our Martindale rub test guide.

What fire standard applies to hotel upholstery in the UK?
For most UK hotel environments, the applicable standard is BS 7176 Medium Hazard, which incorporates BS 5852 Crib 5 plus the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak stage. The certificate must document the specific foam used in the test, as BS 7176 is a composite test of fabric and filling together. Specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 provides a more complete and defensible specification for contract hotel projects. Confirm the specific hazard category with the fire officer for the project. For curtains in hotel bedrooms, the applicable standard is BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, which is a separate standard from BS 5852.

Can velvet be used in hotel bedrooms?
Yes. Mohair velvet with a Martindale rub count of 80,000 or above and an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment is suitable for hotel bedroom seating. The practical limitation is the cleaning code. Most mohair velvet is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry cleaning only, which is not compatible with standard hotel housekeeping routines that use water-based or alkaline cleaners. If the hotel’s housekeeping contractor applies water-based products to upholstered surfaces as routine, a fabric coded W or WS should be specified instead, or a specialist cleaning contract for velvet surfaces must be established in advance.

What is the difference between BS 5852 Crib 5 and BS 7176 for hotel furniture?
BS 5852 Crib 5 is the test method for ignition source 5. BS 7176 is the specification standard for non-domestic upholstered seating that references BS 5852 and additionally requires the cigarette and match stages, the water-soak procedure, and documentation of the specific end-use environment and foam configuration. Similar FR approaches are often used to meet both standards, but BS 7176 certification depends on the full upholstery system including the filling, not the fabric alone. A BS 7176 Medium Hazard certificate is the correct standard to specify for most UK hospitality environments.

How do I manage dye lot consistency on a phased hotel project?
Reserve the full project quantity from a single dye lot at the point of specification, or request that the supplier weave the full quantity from the same yarn batch in a single production run. For projects where this is not possible, retain comparison samples from the first delivery and establish the supplier’s tolerance standards for dye lot variation. For phased projects with undetermined future phases, confirm that the colourway will remain in production for the duration of the project. Discontinued colourways mid-project are the most common source of unresolvable dye lot inconsistency in hotel refurbishments.

Is faux leather suitable for hotel restaurant seating?
Yes. Faux leather is one of the most practical fabrics for hotel restaurant seating. A high-specification PVC faux leather achieving in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating and a wipe-clean surface is compatible with the cleaning regimes used between restaurant services, resists food and beverage spills, and requires no specialist cleaning contract. The cleaning code of W or WS makes it straightforward for housekeeping staff to maintain. The aesthetic limitation is that faux leather does not replicate the warmth and texture of natural upholstery fabrics, which may not suit the positioning of certain hotel restaurants.

What light fastness grade do I need for hotel bedroom curtains?
For hotel bedroom curtains in rooms with mixed orientations, specify a minimum of ISO 105-B02 grade 5. For south or west-facing bedrooms, suites with large glazed areas, or any bedroom where afternoon sun falls directly on the curtain face, specify grade 6 or above. Curtain fabrics are particularly vulnerable to fading at fold lines, which creates an irregular striped effect before the body of the fabric shows colour change. This is commercially significant in a hotel where curtains are highly visible to guests. For full guidance on light fastness grades and room orientation, see our light fastness guide.

Does hotel housekeeping damage upholstery fabric?
Standard hotel housekeeping cleaning products, typically alkaline-based multi-purpose cleaners, can degrade topical FR treatments on upholstery fabrics over time and may cause surface dulling on certain pile fabrics if applied incorrectly. The risk is greatest with fabrics that have a solvent-only cleaning code (S), as water-based products applied by housekeeping staff will eventually compromise both the fabric surface and any chemical FR coating. To avoid this, specify fabrics with a W or WS cleaning code for hotel bedroom and public area upholstery, or ensure that a specialist cleaning contract is in place for any S-coded fabric specified in the project.


Download the Hotel Fabric Specification Checklist (PDF) — a printable one-page reference covering Martindale thresholds by room type, fire compliance, cleaning compatibility, dye lot strategy, and documentation sign-off.

For mohair velvet thermal and moisture management properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide. For healthcare fabric specification, see our healthcare fabric guide. For fabric decisions at each RIBA Plan of Work stage, see our RIBA Plan of Work fabric guide.

For the Building Safety Act 2022 and fabric documentation requirements in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act and fabric specification guide.

For fabric specification for hotel terraces and semi-outdoor hospitality spaces, see our outdoor terrace fabric specification guide. For the full specification library organised by environment, application, and performance need, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Velvet Types Compared: Mohair, Cotton, Silk, Linen and Synthetic

Velvet Types Compared: A Complete Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers and Architects

  • Most durable natural velvet: Mohair, 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs
  • Contract fire standard: BS 5852 Crib 5, inherent in correctly certified mohair; topical treatment required for cotton, linen, and silk
  • Cleaning code: S (solvent only) for most natural velvets; W or WS for synthetic
  • Decorative use only: Silk velvet and cashmere velvet, not suitable for upholstery in regular use

Velvet is a construction method, not a fibre. A velvet fabric is produced by weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously with threads connecting them, then cutting those threads to create an upstanding pile. That pile can be made from almost any fibre, and the fibre is the primary determinant of specification performance, durability, fire rating, cleaning requirements, light fastness, and cost, alongside construction, pile density, and backing. Choosing between velvet types on aesthetic grounds alone is the most common specification error in interior design.

This guide compares the principal velvet types available to specifiers in the UK market across every dimension relevant to a professional specification. For a direct two-way comparison of the two most-specified natural velvets, see our mohair velvet vs cotton velvet guide. For background on the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, and light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.

How Velvet Is Made

Understanding the construction helps explain why fibre choice matters so much in velvet. In warp pile velvet, the pile yarns run along the length of the fabric and are woven over wires or rods. When the rods are withdrawn and the loops cut, a cut pile is formed. In double-cloth velvet, two fabrics are woven face to face simultaneously, joined by pile threads that are then cut to separate them and create pile on both faces. The resulting fabric has a distinct face and back, with the pile standing perpendicular to the base cloth.

The density and height of the pile, the twist of the pile yarn, and the weight and construction of the base cloth all affect performance. The most fundamental variable is the fibre from which the pile is made.

Mohair Velvet

Fibre origin: Hair of the Angora goat, primarily from South Africa and Turkey. South Africa produces more than half of the world’s mohair supply and is the global benchmark for quality. A long-staple, smooth, lustrous fibre with exceptional tensile strength.

Martindale rub count: 80,000 to 100,000 and above, depending on construction and pile density. Mohair velvet achieves the highest rub counts of any natural-fibre velvet and is the most reliably suitable natural-fibre velvet for heavy contract use. Kothea’s mohair velvet ranges are independently tested and achieve between 80,000 and 100,000 Martindale rubs across the active collections.

Fire rating: Mohair fibre, like wool, has natural flame-resistant properties arising from its high protein content. A correctly woven and constructed mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not universal across all mohair velvets and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-cleaning solvent only. Water applied to mohair velvet can cause watermarks and pile matting. For minor fresh stains, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response.

Light fastness: ISO 105-B02 grade 4 to 5 in light colourways and grade 5 to 6 in dark colourways. Suitable for most residential environments. For south-facing rooms, specify dark colourways or confirm the specific colourway grade with the supplier.

Pile appearance: High lustre with a characteristic directional sheen. The pile reflects light differently depending on viewing angle and pile direction, producing the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery velvet.

Suitable applications: Heavy contract upholstery including hotel seating, restaurant banquettes, theatre and hospitality seating, residential sofas and chairs, headboards, cushions, and curtains.

Not recommended for: High-light environments without confirming the colourway grade. Outdoor or semi-outdoor use. Applications requiring machine washing.

Cost position: Premium.

Cotton Velvet

Fibre origin: Cotton plant. A short-staple natural cellulose fibre, widely grown and relatively inexpensive.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction, pile density, and backing. Cotton velvet varies enormously in quality. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet can achieve sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use. A thin, loosely woven cotton velvet intended for curtains or cushions may achieve 10,000 rubs or fewer. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure for the range you are specifying.

Fire rating: Topical treatment required. Cotton fibre does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently. A back-coating of flame-retardant chemicals must be applied before use in contract environments. See our complete guide to Crib 5 for detail on inherent versus topical certification. For the risk of dye colour change after FR treatment, see our dye types and FR treatment guide.

Cleaning code: S or WS depending on the specific range. Cotton velvet treated with a back-coating for Crib 5 may require solvent-only cleaning to avoid degrading the treatment.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 typically with standard reactive dyes.

Pile appearance: Matte to semi-matte. Cotton pile lacks the lustre of mohair and does not produce the same directional sheen.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use without FR treatment and independent testing. High-humidity environments.

Cost position: Mid-range. Cotton velvet is typically less expensive than mohair at equivalent pile weights but requires the additional cost of FR treatment for contract use.

Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Cocoon of the silkworm Bombyx mori. Silk is a continuous filament natural protein fibre of exceptional fineness and lustre.

Martindale rub count: Below 15,000 in most cases. Natural silk is the weakest of the natural-fibre velvets in abrasion terms. Silk velvet is decorative fabric, not upholstery fabric in the contract sense of the word.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is possible for domestic standards but silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a full Crib 5 pass for contract use.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only. Silk is highly water-sensitive.

Light fastness: Grade 2 to 4 typically. Silk velvet should not be used in rooms with significant natural light exposure. See our light fastness guide for full context.

Pile appearance: The most lustrous of all velvet pile types.

Suitable applications: Decorative cushions, occasional chairs in low-use residential rooms, curtains in low-light environments, bed throws.

Not recommended for: Any contract application. South-facing rooms.

Cost position: High to very high.

Linen Velvet

Fibre origin: Flax plant. Linen is a bast fibre extracted from the stalk of the flax plant.

Martindale rub count: 15,000 to 25,000 typically. Kothea’s Linen Velvet achieves 20,000 Martindale rubs with a SI 1324 cigarette test pass.

Fire rating: Not inherently Crib 5. For contract use, FR treatment or a Schedule 3 interliner is required.

Cleaning code: S or WS. Confirm on the data sheet.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard reactive dyes.

Pile appearance: Matte. Linen velvet has a distinctly textural, natural surface character.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, curtains, cushions, decorative headboards.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. High-humidity environments.

Cost position: Mid-range.

Cashmere and Cashmere-Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Undercoat of the Himalayan Cashmere goat.

Martindale rub count: Low. Cashmere fibre is too fine and too short-staple to produce velvet with meaningful abrasion resistance for upholstery use. Kothea’s Cashmere Silk Velvet is specified for curtains only.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is technically possible but the handle and appearance of cashmere velvet are typically altered by the coating process.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only.

Light fastness: Moderate. Cashmere is a protein fibre and susceptible to UV degradation.

Pile appearance: Extraordinarily soft handle with a subtle, fine lustre.

Suitable applications: Curtains, decorative cushions, bed throws, accent pieces in low-use residential rooms.

Not recommended for: Upholstery of any kind in regular use. Contract environments.

Cost position: Very high.

Synthetic Velvet: Trevira CS and Polyester

Fibre origin: Petrochemical derivatives. Trevira CS is a branded inherently fire-retardant polyester fibre manufactured in Germany.

Martindale rub count: High. Synthetic velvet typically achieves 50,000 to 150,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction.

Fire rating: Trevira CS is inherently flame-retardant. The flame retardancy is a permanent property of the polyester polymer and survives cleaning.

Cleaning code: W or WS typically.

Light fastness: Grade 6 to 7 typically. Solution-dyed synthetic velvet achieves the highest light fastness ratings available in velvet form.

Pile appearance: Varies considerably by construction.

Suitable applications: Contract upholstery where fire certification and durability are the primary requirements. Healthcare environments. Transport seating.

Not recommended for: Ultra-luxury residential briefs where natural fibre handle and appearance are client requirements.

Cost position: Lower to mid-range.

Alpaca Velvet

Fibre origin: Fleece of the South American alpaca.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 40,000 typically, depending on construction.

Fire rating: Alpaca is a natural protein fibre with moderate inherent fire resistance, but cannot be assumed to pass BS 5852 Crib 5 without specific independent testing. Request the test certificate from the supplier.

Cleaning code: S typically.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard acid dyes.

Pile appearance: Soft and slightly matte with a gentle natural lustre.

Suitable applications: Luxury residential upholstery, cushions, and occasional seating.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use.

Cost position: High.

Specification Summary by Application

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality environments, mohair velvet with an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment, and a rub count of 80,000 or above, is the most reliable natural-fibre specification. Synthetic Trevira CS velvet is the alternative where budget or client preference for machine-cleanable fabric applies.

For residential upholstery in moderate-use rooms, cotton velvet at 25,000 to 40,000 Martindale rubs is a sound mid-range specification. Linen velvet at 20,000 rubs suits briefs requiring a natural textural aesthetic.

For decorative applications, cushions, and occasional chairs in low-use rooms, silk velvet, cashmere velvet, or alpaca velvet are appropriate where budget allows and the client accepts the care requirements.

For south-facing rooms or high-light environments, confirm the specific ISO 105-B02 grade before specifying any velvet. Mohair in dark colourways, synthetic velvet, and solution-dyed fabrics offer the most reliable light fastness performance.

Quick answers

What is the most durable velvet for contract upholstery?
Mohair velvet is the most durable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery, achieving Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 depending on construction. It also carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 fire rating without topical treatment, making it the only natural-fibre velvet that meets both the durability and fire certification requirements of most UK contract environments without additional cost or treatment. High-specification synthetic velvet using Trevira CS fibre can achieve comparable or higher rub counts and also carries inherent fire resistance, at a lower cost but with a different aesthetic.


What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?
Mohair velvet is made from the hair of the Angora goat and achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating. Cotton velvet is made from cotton fibre and typically achieves 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, with no inherent Crib 5 rating. Cotton velvet requires topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair velvet has a characteristic directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate.


Can silk velvet be used for upholstery?
Silk velvet is not suitable for upholstery in regular use. It typically achieves fewer than 15,000 Martindale rubs, which places it in the decorative category unsuitable for seating. Silk is also highly photosensitive, with a light fastness grade of 2 to 4, meaning it will fade in rooms with natural light exposure. Silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification for contract use.


Does mohair velvet have an inherent Crib 5 fire rating?
Mohair fibre has natural flame-resistant properties and a correctly woven mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not guaranteed for all mohair velvets by fibre type alone and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. This distinguishes correctly certified mohair velvet from cotton, linen, and silk velvets, all of which require topical treatment to achieve Crib 5.


What velvet is best for south-facing rooms?
For south-facing rooms, specify velvet with an ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade of at least 6. Mohair velvet in dark colourways achieves grade 5 to 6. Synthetic velvet and solution-dyed fabrics typically achieve grade 6 to 7. Silk velvet and cashmere velvet should not be specified for south-facing rooms. Cotton and linen velvet achieve grade 4 to 5, which is borderline for sustained south-facing exposure.


What is the difference between cut pile velvet and uncut pile velvet?
In cut pile velvet the pile loops are cut during production, producing upstanding individual fibres that create the characteristic dense, soft surface. In uncut pile or loop pile velvet the loops remain intact, producing a harder, more textural surface. Most upholstery velvet is cut pile. Some decorative velvets combine cut and uncut areas to create pattern, known as ciselé or voided velvet.


How do I clean velvet upholstery without damaging the pile?
The cleaning method depends on the cleaning code assigned to the specific fabric. Most velvet upholstery is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry-cleaning agents only. Water applied to an S-coded velvet can cause watermarks and permanent pile distortion. Always work in the direction of the pile when applying any cleaning agent or brushing.


Is linen velvet suitable for contract upholstery?
Linen velvet is suitable for light contract use, subject to FR treatment and confirmation of the Martindale rub count for the specific range. A well-constructed linen velvet at 20,000 Martindale rubs meets the minimum threshold for general contract use. However, linen velvet does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently and requires topical treatment or an appropriate interliner for contract environments.


For velvet specification in hotel and hospitality projects, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For velvet on walls and headboards, see our wall panels and headboards guide. For when velvet is the wrong choice, see our when not to use velvet guide. For pilling resistance by velvet type, see our pilling resistance guide. For mohair thermal properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide. For colour fastness and crocking, and for how to name and specify colour precisely, see our colour fastness and crocking guide and colour naming and specification guide.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, and light fastness grades by range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page and the silks page.

For guidance on using velvet as an acoustic treatment in home studios and music rooms, see our fabric for home studio acoustics guide.

For the full specification library organised by environment, application, and performance need, see our fabric buying guide by purpose.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Light Fastness and the Blue Wool Scale: Fabric Specification Guide

Light Fastness and the Blue Wool Scale: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers

Light fastness is a fabric’s resistance to fading when exposed to light. For interior designers, it is one of the most practically consequential specifications you will make. A fabric that fades within two years in a south-facing room represents a specification failure regardless of how well it performs on every other measure. This guide explains how light fastness is tested, what the Blue Wool Scale grades mean, which grades to specify for different applications, and how light fastness interacts with fibre type, dye method, and room orientation.

This is the third in a series of technical specification guides from Kothea. The first covers the Martindale rub test and the second covers BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification.
For why velvet in pale colourways in south-facing rooms is a specific light fastness risk, see our when not to use velvet guide. For colour naming, systems, and metamerism, see our colour naming and specification guide. For the companion test covering dye transfer and crocking, see our colour fastness and crocking guide.


What Light Fastness Means

Light fastness measures how much a fabric’s colour changes when exposed to light. It is not the same as colour fastness generally, which covers a broader range of stressors including washing, rubbing, and perspiration. Light fastness specifically measures the effect of ultraviolet and visible light on the dye or pigment within a fabric.

Fading occurs when light energy breaks down the chemical bonds in a dye molecule, altering its ability to absorb and reflect specific wavelengths of light. The result is a shift in the perceived colour of the fabric, which may manifest as bleaching, yellowing, or a change in hue depending on the dye type and fibre.

The speed and extent of fading depends on the fibre type, the class of dye used, the dyeing method, the intensity and spectrum of light the fabric is exposed to, and the presence of UV filtering in the glazing of the windows in the room.

Light fastness should not be confused with shade change in velvet, which is the apparent change in colour caused by pile being pushed in different directions through use. Shade change is a mechanical phenomenon and is not related to dye degradation or light exposure.


How the Test Works

The standard test for light fastness in the United Kingdom and Europe is ISO 105-B02: Colour Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test. The fabric specimen is placed in a controlled chamber and exposed to a xenon arc lamp, which produces a spectrum of light representative of natural daylight at the D65 standard illuminant. This simulates the conditions of a south-facing interior window.

The specimen is assessed at intervals by comparing the degree of colour change against a set of eight reference fabrics known as blue wool references, numbered 1 to 8. These references are produced and calibrated by specialist manufacturers such as James Heal, who supply accredited test houses worldwide. Each blue wool reference is dyed with a different dye to produce a known and calibrated resistance to fading. Blue wool 1 is the most fugitive and blue wool 8 is the most resistant. Each successive reference is approximately twice as resistant to fading as the previous one, giving the scale a geometric rather than linear progression. The difference between grade 5 and grade 6 represents twice the resistance of grade 4 to grade 5, not an equal step.

The result awarded to the fabric is the number of the blue wool reference that most closely matches the degree of fading shown by the test specimen. A fabric rated at grade 5 has faded to a degree equivalent to blue wool reference 5 under the same exposure conditions.


The Blue Wool Scale: What Each Grade Means

Grade 1 indicates very poor light fastness. The fabric will fade rapidly under even moderate light exposure. No upholstery or curtain fabric should be specified at this grade.

Grade 2 indicates poor light fastness. Significant fading is expected within a short period. Not suitable for any interior application where appearance durability matters.

Grade 3 indicates moderate light fastness. Acceptable only for very low-light environments with no direct sunlight exposure. Not recommended for curtains or upholstery in standard residential or contract use.

Grade 4 indicates good light fastness and is the recognised minimum for interior furnishing fabrics. Suitable for residential upholstery and curtains in rooms with indirect or limited natural light. Not recommended for south-facing rooms with large glazed areas or for high-light contract environments.

Grade 5 indicates very good light fastness and is the recommended minimum for most residential upholstery and curtain specifications. Suitable for rooms with moderate natural light including east and west-facing rooms.

Grade 6 indicates excellent light fastness and is recommended for south-facing rooms, high-light residential environments, and standard contract interiors including hotels and restaurants.

Grade 7 indicates very high light fastness. Recommended for environments with prolonged or intense light exposure including glazed atriums, conservatories, and south-facing hospitality spaces.

Grade 8 indicates the maximum achievable light fastness and is reserved for the most demanding light environments including marine, semi-outdoor, and direct sunlight applications.


Specification Thresholds by Application

For residential upholstery in rooms with limited or indirect natural light, grade 4 is the minimum acceptable threshold. For residential upholstery in rooms with moderate natural light, specify grade 5 or above. For south-facing rooms or rooms with large glazed areas, specify grade 6 or above. For contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, and offices with standard glazing, specify grade 5 as a minimum with grade 6 preferred. For glazed atriums, hotel lobbies with skylights, or any environment with prolonged daylight exposure, specify grade 6 to 7.

For curtains, the same grading applies but the exposure is usually more direct and more sustained than for upholstery. A curtain fabric in a south-facing room should be specified at grade 6 or above regardless of whether the curtains are habitually closed or drawn.

For marine, yacht, or semi-outdoor applications, grade 7 to 8 is the appropriate range and specialist outdoor-rated fabrics should be specified rather than standard interior upholstery fabric.


The Effect of Room Orientation

Room orientation is one of the most underspecified variables in fabric selection. A north-facing room in the UK receives no direct sunlight at any time of year, and a grade 4 or 5 fabric is typically adequate. An east-facing room receives direct morning sun for a limited period. A west-facing room receives afternoon sun, which can be intense in summer. A south-facing room receives direct sunlight throughout the day from spring through autumn, with peak UV intensity between midday and 3pm.

The difference in light exposure between a north-facing and south-facing room in London over a twelve-month period is very significant. A grade 4 fabric that performs adequately in a north-facing study may show visible fading within eighteen months in a south-facing drawing room.

Always ask the client which direction the principal windows face and factor that into the light fastness requirement before specifying.


Fibre Type and Dye Method

Not all fibres accept dyes equally, and not all dyes are equally resistant to light degradation. The light fastness of a fabric is a product of both.

Silk is the most photosensitive natural fibre. Silk dyes are chemically susceptible to UV degradation, and silk fabrics typically achieve lower light fastness ratings than wool, cotton, or linen. Silk and silk velvet should be specified with caution in high-light environments, and the client should be advised of this limitation explicitly before specification is finalised.

Wool and mohair accept reactive and acid dyes that can achieve good light fastness ratings when correctly selected. Well-dyed wool upholstery fabrics typically achieve grade 5 to 6. Mohair, being a wool-derived fibre, has similar dye chemistry. Kothea’s Mohair Velvet Seven is tested independently to ISO 105-B02 and achieves grade 4 to 5 for light colourways and grade 5 to 6 for dark colourways. Darker colourways generally achieve higher light fastness grades because a greater proportion of colour loss is required before a visual change becomes perceptible.

Cotton and linen typically achieve moderate light fastness with standard reactive dyes. Pre-washed and solution-dyed cotton and linen can achieve higher grades depending on the dyestuff selection.

Polyester is inherently more resistant to UV degradation than natural fibres and typically achieves grades 6 to 7. Solution-dyed polyester, where colour is introduced into the fibre during extrusion rather than applied to the surface after weaving, achieves the highest light fastness ratings of any standard interior fabric and is appropriate for the most demanding high-light or semi-outdoor applications.

PVC and PU faux leathers are treated with UV-stabilising additives during manufacture and typically achieve high light fastness ratings. However, UV degradation of the substrate itself can cause surface cracking and loss of surface texture independent of colour change, which is a separate consideration for high-light environments.


What Light Fastness Does Not Measure

The ISO 105-B02 test measures colour change under controlled artificial light. It does not measure the effect of UV-filtering glass, which can significantly reduce UV exposure in modern double or triple-glazed windows. It does not measure the effect of cleaning on dye stability, which is covered by separate fastness tests. It does not predict how a specific fabric will behave in a specific room, because actual exposure varies by latitude, season, window orientation, glazing specification, and curtain or blind usage.

Low-e glazing and UV-blocking film can substantially reduce the UV component of light entering a room, extending the effective service life of a fabric beyond what the grade alone would suggest. If a client is refurbishing a property with high-specification glazing, this should be factored into the specification conversation.


Light Fastness and Crocking

Light fastness should not be confused with crocking, which is the transfer of dye from a fabric surface to another material through rubbing or friction. Crocking is measured by a separate test and graded on a different scale of 1 to 5. A fabric with good light fastness may still crock, particularly when wet.

For dark-coloured velvets in upholstery applications, crocking is a relevant concern particularly where light-coloured clothing is likely. Always check the crocking rating as well as the light fastness grade when specifying dark velvets for seating.


Kothea and Light Fastness

Mohair Velvet Seven from Kothea is tested independently to ISO 105-B02 and achieves grade 4 to 5 for light colourways and grade 5 to 6 for dark colourways, making it appropriate for moderate to high-light residential environments and standard contract interiors with adequate glazing.

For high-light environments, colourway selection is material. A dark colourway at grade 5 to 6 will outperform a pale colourway at grade 4 to 5 in a south-facing room. If the client’s brief requires a pale colourway in a south-facing room, this should be discussed explicitly and the light fastness limitation acknowledged before specification is finalised.

For full specification data on light fastness across the Kothea range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page or contact Kothea directly.


How to Specify Light Fastness

Ask the supplier for the ISO 105-B02 grade and confirm whether the test was carried out by an independent third party laboratory or self-declared by the supplier. Self-declared ratings without an independent test certificate should not be relied upon for contract projects.

State the required minimum grade in your specification as a labelled field. For example: Light fastness minimum grade 5 to ISO 105-B02. This makes the requirement explicit and verifiable.

Where the project involves south-facing rooms, large glazed areas, or a light-sensitive colourway, note this in your specification and confirm with the supplier that the grade applies to the specific colourway being ordered. Light fastness can vary between colourways within the same range, particularly between light and dark shades.


Quick answers

What light fastness grade do I need for a south-facing room?
For a south-facing room in the UK, specify a minimum of grade 6 to ISO 105-B02 for both upholstery and curtain fabrics. South-facing rooms receive direct sunlight throughout the day from spring through autumn, which represents the most demanding light exposure condition in standard residential interiors. Grade 4, the minimum for interior furnishing fabrics generally, is insufficient for sustained south-facing exposure and will show visible fading within one to two years in most cases. If the glazing incorporates UV-blocking film or low-e coating, this will extend fabric performance, but grade 6 remains the appropriate specification baseline regardless of glazing.

What does a Blue Wool Scale grade of 5 mean for upholstery fabric?
A Blue Wool Scale grade of 5, tested to ISO 105-B02, means the fabric’s colour has faded to a degree equivalent to blue wool reference 5 under controlled xenon arc light exposure. Grade 5 is the recommended minimum for most residential upholstery specifications and is appropriate for rooms with moderate natural light including east and west-facing rooms. It is not recommended for south-facing rooms with large windows, where grade 6 is the appropriate minimum. Each grade on the scale represents approximately twice the light resistance of the grade below it, so the difference between grade 5 and grade 6 is significant rather than marginal.

Does silk fabric fade faster than other upholstery fabrics?
Yes. Silk is the most photosensitive of the natural upholstery fibres and typically achieves lower ISO 105-B02 grades than wool, mohair, cotton, or linen under equivalent conditions. The dyes used on silk are chemically more susceptible to UV degradation. Silk velvet and silk upholstery fabrics should not be specified for rooms receiving significant natural light without an explicit conversation with the client about this limitation. For high-light environments, mohair velvet or solution-dyed synthetic fabrics are more appropriate choices.

What is the light fastness rating of Kothea mohair velvet?
Kothea’s Mohair Velvet Seven is tested independently to ISO 105-B02 and achieves grade 4 to 5 for light colourways and grade 5 to 6 for dark colourways. For south-facing rooms, dark colourways at grade 5 to 6 are the appropriate selection from this range. For rooms with indirect or moderate natural light, light colourways at grade 4 to 5 are suitable. Contact Kothea to confirm the grade applicable to a specific colourway before finalising your specification.

Can UV-blocking glazing improve the effective light fastness performance of a fabric?
Yes. Modern low-e glazing and dedicated UV-blocking film reduce the UV component of light entering a room, which is the primary driver of dye degradation in interior fabrics. A fabric at grade 5 installed behind UV-blocking glazing will typically outlast the same fabric at grade 5 behind standard single glazing by a considerable margin. However, UV-blocking glazing does not eliminate UV exposure entirely, and the ISO 105-B02 grade should still be specified at the appropriate level for the room orientation. Treat the glazing specification as a factor that extends fabric performance, not as a substitute for adequate light fastness in the fabric itself.

What is the difference between light fastness and colour fastness?
Light fastness is a specific type of colour fastness that measures resistance to fading caused by light exposure, tested to ISO 105-B02 and graded on the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8. Colour fastness is a broader term covering resistance to colour change or transfer from a range of stressors including washing, rubbing (crocking), perspiration, and dry cleaning, each tested to a separate standard within the ISO 105 series and graded on a scale of 1 to 5. A fabric can have excellent light fastness and poor crocking resistance, or vice versa. For contract upholstery, both light fastness to ISO 105-B02 and crocking resistance should be checked and specified independently.


To request cuttings from the Kothea range, including Mohair Velvet Seven with independent ISO 105-B02 light fastness certification.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

BS 5852 Crib 5: Complete Guide for Upholstery Specification

Brown faux leather chair from April Hamilton

BS 5852 Crib 5: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers

BS 5852 Crib 5 is the fire safety standard required for most contract upholstery in the United Kingdom. If you are specifying fabric for a hotel, restaurant, bar, office, healthcare environment, or any other commercial interior, Crib 5 compliance is the baseline expectation. This guide explains what the standard is, how the test works, the critical difference between inherent and topical certification, and how to specify correctly. For dye types and FR treatment compatibility — which dyes cause fading after treatment — see our dye types and FR treatment guide. For colour fastness and crocking specification, see our colour fastness and crocking guide. For hotel and hospitality projects see our hotel fabric specification guide. For wall panel and headboard applications, a different standard applies: see our guide to fabric for wall panels and headboards.For projects involving yachts or commercial vessels, a separate framework applies: see our guide to IMO marine fire standards for yacht interiors.


What Crib 5 Is

Crib 5 is shorthand for BS 5852 Ignition Source 5. BS 5852, titled Methods of Test for Assessment of the Ignitability of Upholstered Seating, is the British Standard that defines how upholstered furniture materials must behave when exposed to ignition sources of increasing intensity. The standard defines eight ignition source levels. The three that matter most in practice are Source 0 (a smouldering cigarette), Source 1 (a small flame equivalent to a lit match), and Source 5, which is the Crib 5 test.

The name comes from the wooden structure used as the ignition source. A crib is a small lattice of dry timber pieces, stacked five tiers high, weighing approximately 17 grams. The number 5 refers to the number of tiers. The crib is placed on the upholstery assembly and ignited. The test is designed to simulate an ignition event more intense than a match flame, comparable to a burning pile of paper, and is the realistic minimum for contract environments where furniture may be exposed to more severe ignition risks than a smouldering cigarette.


The Three-Stage Test

BS 5852 Crib 5 is not a single test in isolation. To achieve a Crib 5 certification, a fabric must first pass both the cigarette test (Source 0) and the match test (Source 1). Only materials that pass both of these lower-level tests are eligible to proceed to the Crib 5 stage. A material that fails the cigarette or match test cannot be certified to Crib 5 regardless of how it performs under the wooden crib.

For more detail on the cigarette and match stages of BS 5852, see our guide to how FR treatment works.

In the cigarette test, a smouldering cigarette is placed in the crease between the seat and back of the upholstered test rig. The material must show no ignition and no progressive smouldering.

In the match test, a small burner flame is held against the upholstery for 20 seconds. The material must self-extinguish immediately and show no spread of flame.

In the Crib 5 test, the lit wooden crib is placed on the upholstered assembly. All flaming must cease within 10 minutes. The fire must not spread beyond defined limits or penetrate the filling material. There must be no self-sustaining smouldering after the crib has burned out.


The Composite Nature of the Test

This is the point most frequently misunderstood in specification. BS 5852 does not test the fabric in isolation. It tests the full composite assembly: the fabric cover, the foam or filling, and any interliner, all as they would be used together in the finished piece of furniture.

A fabric that achieves Crib 5 certification in one configuration with a specific foam may not achieve it when applied over a different foam. A certificate from a fabric supplier confirms the fabric was tested in a specific configuration. If the foam or filling used in your project differs from the foam used in the test, the certificate may not be valid for your application.

Always confirm with your fabric supplier the exact configuration under which the Crib 5 test was conducted, including the foam specification, before relying on that certificate for a contract project.


Inherent Versus Topical Certification

The single most important distinction in specifying a Crib 5 fabric is whether the certification is inherent or achieved through topical treatment. The practical consequences are significant.

Inherent Crib 5 means the fire resistance is a property of the fibre itself. The yarn from which the fabric is woven is non-combustible or self-extinguishing by its nature, independent of any chemical application. Mohair velvet is the primary example in the Kothea range. Mohair fibre is inherently resistant to ignition, and a correctly woven mohair velvet carries an inherent Crib 5 pass without any treatment being applied. The certification is permanent, unaffected by cleaning, does not alter the handle or surface appearance of the fabric, and carries no additional cost for FR treatment.

Topical or back-coated treatment is applied to a fabric that is not inherently fire resistant. The fabric passes through a bath of fire-retardant chemicals, which are bonded to the reverse of the fabric through a coating process. The resulting fabric can achieve a Crib 5 pass, but with three important caveats.

First, the BS 5852 standard requires a water-soak test as part of full certification. The fabric is soaked in water to simulate cleaning and then retested. Many fabrics that pass the dry Crib 5 test fail after the water-soak stage. An indicative test without the water-soak is not a complete Crib 5 certificate. Do not rely on an indicative certificate for contract projects without confirming with the client and fire officer that it is acceptable.

Second, the coating process can affect the appearance and handle of certain fabrics. Pile fabrics such as velvets are particularly susceptible. Immersion or back-coating can flatten the pile, stiffen the handle, or leave residue on the face of the fabric. This is one of the reasons mohair velvet with an inherent pass is preferable for contract use over cotton or linen velvet that requires treatment.

Third, a topically treated fabric may need re-treatment if cleaned by a method that degrades the coating. Professional cleaning must use methods compatible with the treatment. Confirm the appropriate cleaning regime with the treatment provider before specifying.

For a detailed guide to the treatment process and the difference between Crib 5 and BS 7176, see our guide to how FR treatment works.


BS 7176 and Hazard Categories

BS 7176, Specification for Resistance to Ignition of Upholstered Furniture for Non-Domestic Seating, extends the BS 5852 framework by categorising different commercial environments into hazard levels and specifying the appropriate ignition source requirement for each.

Low hazard covers environments such as offices. Medium hazard covers hotels, theatres, and healthcare waiting areas. High and extreme hazard cover environments such as prisons, secure psychiatric units, and offshore installations.

For most hospitality and commercial interiors the relevant category is Medium Hazard, and the standard associated with it is effectively Crib 5. The practical difference between specifying to BS 5852 Crib 5 and specifying to BS 7176 Medium Hazard is that BS 7176 includes the water-soak stage explicitly and requires the certificate to document the specific end-use environment and foam specification. In complex or sensitive projects, specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 gives a more complete and defensible specification. The treatment applied to achieve both is the same.


When Crib 7 Is Required

Crib 7 follows the same principle as Crib 5 but uses a larger wooden crib, seven tiers high and approximately 126 grams against Crib 5’s 17 grams, producing a more intense ignition source. It is required in high and extreme hazard environments: primarily prisons, secure psychiatric units, and some offshore or industrial installations. The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 assigns responsibility for determining the appropriate hazard category to the responsible person managing the building, not to the designer or fabric supplier. If a project falls into a high hazard category, engage a specialist fire safety consultant before specifying.

Crib 5 fabric, when combined with an appropriate FR foam, can sometimes achieve a Crib 7 pass as a composite. This must be verified by testing and documented with the relevant certificate. Do not assume that a Crib 5 fabric will achieve Crib 7 without independent testing.


Curtain Fabrics and the Different Standard

BS 5852 applies to upholstery. Curtain fabrics are governed by a separate standard, BS 5867, which tests vertical hanging fabrics rather than upholstered composites. The two standards are not interchangeable. A curtain fabric certified to BS 5867 is not automatically suitable for upholstery use, and a Crib 5 certified upholstery fabric is not automatically certified for use as a curtain in a contract environment. Always confirm the correct standard for the specific application before specifying.


Kothea Fabrics and Crib 5

Mohair velvet from Kothea carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 pass across all active mohair velvet ranges. The inherent certification means no treatment is required, no additional cost is incurred, the certification survives cleaning, and the handle and surface of the fabric are unaffected. The primary Mohair Velvet range achieves 100,000 Martindale rubs alongside its inherent Crib 5 certification, combining contract-grade durability with the highest fire safety standard for most commercial projects.

Faux Leather 3 from Kothea carries a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification alongside a Martindale rub count in excess of 200,000, making it among the most specification-complete fabrics available for severe contract environments including transport seating, healthcare, and hospitality.

Cotton velvet requires topical treatment to achieve a Crib 5 pass and is not supplied by Kothea with an inherent certification.


How to Specify Correctly

State the standard in full. Ask for BS 5852 Ignition Source 5 (Crib 5), not just Crib 5. The full reference removes ambiguity.

Confirm inherent or topical. Ask the supplier explicitly whether the certification is inherent to the fibre or achieved through topical treatment. If topical, ask whether the full water-soak test was completed and request the certificate confirming it.

Confirm the composite configuration. Ask which foam was used in the test. If your project uses a different foam, the certificate may not cover your specific application.

Use a UKAS-accredited treatment house. If your project requires a fabric to be treated, specify that treatment must be carried out by a UKAS-accredited company. This ensures the process is correctly executed and independently verifiable.

Request the full test certificate. An indicative result is not a certificate. For contract projects, require the independent test certificate before the fabric is upholstered.

Consider BS 7176 for complex environments. For hotel bedrooms, healthcare, or any environment where the hazard category is uncertain, specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than Crib 5 alone provides a more defensible specification at no additional treatment cost.


Quick answers

What is BS 5852?
BS 5852 is the British Standard that tests the ignitability of upholstered seating. It defines eight ignition source levels, from a smouldering cigarette (Source 0) up to larger wooden crib sources. Crib 5 is BS 5852 Ignition Source 5, the level required for most UK contract upholstery. The standard tests the full composite of fabric, filling, and interliner together, not the fabric alone.


Is BS 5852 the same as BS 7176?
No, though they are related. BS 5852 is the test method for the ignition sources, including Crib 5. BS 7176 is the specification standard for non-domestic seating that references BS 5852, groups commercial environments into hazard categories, adds the water-soak stage explicitly, and requires the certificate to document the end-use environment and foam. For most hotel and contract projects, BS 7176 Medium Hazard is the more complete specification, achieved with the same treatment as Crib 5.


What is a BS 5852 Crib 5 certificate?
A BS 5852 Crib 5 certificate confirms that a specific composite of fabric and filling passed the cigarette, match, and Crib 5 wooden crib tests, including the water-soak stage for full certification. The certificate is valid only for the fabric and foam combination tested. An indicative test without the water-soak is not a full certificate. For contract projects, require the independent certificate from a UKAS-accredited laboratory before the fabric is upholstered.


Does a fabric need to be treated to pass BS 5852 Crib 5?
Not always. Fabrics with inherent fire resistance, such as mohair velvet, pass BS 5852 Crib 5 without any topical treatment because the resistance is a property of the fibre. Fabrics that are not inherently fire resistant, such as cotton or linen velvet, require topical back-coating treatment to achieve a pass. Inherent certification is permanent, survives cleaning, and does not alter the handle, whereas topical treatment can degrade with cleaning and may affect the appearance of pile fabrics.


For surface spread of flame requirements for wall and ceiling linings — a separate standard from Crib 5 — see our BS 476 Part 7 guide.

For fabric sustainability certifications including GOTS and Oeko-Tex, see our fabric sustainability certifications guide. For healthcare fire standards including BS 7176, see our healthcare fabric guide.

For how the Building Safety Act 2022 affects fabric fire certification documentation in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act and fabric specification guide.

Request Samples

Order cutting samples of any fabric from our current collections. Trade accounts only.

Order Cuttings

Interior Design: Getting into the industry with your eyes wide open.

Featured Image -- 5771What does it take to become a great interior designer?

Inspiration? Passion? An eye for detail? Perhaps all these things and more. At KOTHEA we don’t profess to be interior designers however we do deal with many of the top desingers in the UK.

They all share many characteristics.

They are great organisers. Even relatively small interiors projects are complex and involve dealing with many suppliers and tracking the purchasing and installation of products and services from them. So as well as your creative flair you have to be a good project manager, or at least employ someone who is.

They are great salespeople. Starting your own interior desing business is still starting a business. The same rules apply to designers as to successful business people elsewhere. You have to be passionate about what you do and people will want to buy from someone who is both knowledgeable and enjoying what they do.

They have Empathy and Understanding. It’s great innovating amazing new concepts that you love but your client has to like them. Understanding what your client wants and delivering to the brief is vital. The best and cheapest marketing you will ever get will be from word of mouth advertising from delighted cients. When you have grown your international interior design business you won’t need a salesforce if you have 100 delighted cleints on your books.

They excel and focus. Be great at something. Even better, be indespensible. If you are starting at ‘the bottom’ of a large design practice always do a great job but excel at some aspect of it, get noticed, and if that bit you are really good at helps the business grow then make it your area by the knowledge and passion you put into it. If you are going out on your own then try to focus; it can be a big leap in the technical aspects of going from say spas to aircraft to ski chalets. If you’ve just done an underground restaurant-bar focus your efforts on securing another one; the sale will be easier and that next job will be easier to deliver on when you win it. You will make less mistakes and so make more money, even the very best designers still have bills to pay.

They have contacts. Getting started is difficult in any business. If you know the right potential clients and the right people in the industry it will be easier for you. At the very least you will need experience and perhaps that is where the basic training is important. So if you are looking to get a formal training go for it. Get excited about creating wonderful schemes for your expectant clients but don’t forget the business side of what you do.

A comprehensive list of courses is available through the BIDA web site and the 2 better known ones are also listed immediately below. Happy studying and good luck with your future career:

1. BIDA
2. KLC
3. Inchbald

 

Katie Malik Interiors

From time-to-time, KOTHEA are happy to host profiles of interior designers and architects to boost their awareness and provide a link to their work/website.

——————————————————————————————————————————————

KMalikProfileHello, my name is Katie Malik and I’m an interior designer based in Cambridge. Here is my story: during my secondary school years, I developed a love for interior design but put my passion on hold to instead earn a degree in Linguistics. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise, making me a much better communicator and an excellent listener. I completed Interior Design training at Chelsea College of Art in London and finally turned my passion into a full-time job.

Now, I design for and on behalf of Katie Malik Interiors, which I founded in 2012. In accordance with the belief “A home should reflect the people living there”, Katie Malik Interiors is about taking a holistic view of the way individuals use and enjoy their space and delivers bespoke interior design solutions to homeowners and developers both in the UK and internationally.

Our trademark is efficient, yet sophisticated and timeless design, demonstrated across a range of large and small-scale projects, featured, among the others, in the Homify magazine. We are also very excited for the kitchen we designed to appear in the Ideal Home magazine very soon.

Visit our inspirational website: www.katiemalik.co.uk or search for interior design advice on our blog: https://KOTHEA.com

Interior Designer | Brand Boost + Author Boost

Off-White Textured Upholstery on Contemporary Seating
Off-White Textured Upholstery on Contemporary Seating

Modern-day interior designers should know that there are a few neat tricks you can do on your website AND blog to make YOU stand out more in Google when your clients search for you or the things you create.

I’m going to take you through two DIFFERENT but related changes to your blog/website.

Company Brand

When you search for a brand or a rock star or something famous(ish) then you sometimes will see some interesting bits of information appear on the right hand side of the Google search results…the place where the ads normally can be found. Try this search for Barack Obama to see what I mean. This interesting information might come from a Wikipedia entry about a rock stars career or it might tell you that company’s local contact information and maybe some images of their work or some customer reviews of their services.

If you can get a Wikipedia entry about your ‘notable’ business then you will have this problem solved. Tell me how you did it as it is notoriously difficult. (Hint: Don’t try).

You only sometimes see that information because the brand owner has only sometimes told Google what to put there. You can assume that Coca Cola have done this and this search for Coca Cola shows you. You’ll notice it is slightly different to the Obama-Wikipedia one, perhaps your version shows a local stockist?

Well; you are a brand owner of your interior design business. Have you told Google?

Here’s How

You need to potentially do quite a few things here. You (or your techie person) are going to be getting involved in HTML code using rel=’publisher’ and you are going to need to create a Google+ page for your business. If that hasn’t put you off let’s continue.

Firstly you need to create a Google+ account for YOU.

1. If your business has the website BlahDesign.com then you need to have a personal email such as Nathalie.Arrigone@BlahDesign.com (Nathalie@yahoo.com will not work). With that email address go and create a Google+ account for you ie Nathalie Arrigone. It is possible to create a login based on Nathalie.Arrigone@BlahDesign.com if you look closely.

  • Do not use the wrong name eg Nat Arrigone or Nathalie A. It will not work.
  • Do not try and put a funny picture there. It will not work
  • You need a passport standard photo. Otherwise it will not work.
  • Do not put a picture of your company or product. It will not work
  • Got the message?
  • You could of course create a totally fictitious persona based on a photo of your dearly departed aunty. Which would be a bit creepy 🙂

Almost there! Well the first part, at least.

2. While you are on your new Google+ page the only thing you NEED to do is to check that you are listed as a contributor to your website AND to your blog. Go to “About/Links” and add that information.

3. Now use this link to verify your email address.

4. Now choose your profile and then PAGES. Create a the appropriate page for your business. Ideally Local Business or Organisation

  • Add your real-world website AND verify it eg www.BlahDesign.com AND https://blog.BlahDesign.com
  • Add all the appropriate email addresses eg info@BlahDesign.com and verify them ALL including yours if you have not already done so..

5. Finally ! You have to now put a link on your website to your new Google+ PAGE – replace 1111111111111 with the number of your Google+ page. Do it on your home page and also for the home page of your blog.

<a href=”https://plus.google.com/111111111111111″ rel=”publisher”>

Please do not try to link this to your personal page. It will sort of work. For a while. You have been warned!

6. You can now test your new Google+ Company Page is working with the Google Structured Data Testing Tool. Just look for the section further down the page concerning the PUBLISHER information. It’s just that bit that should be nice and green coloured.

So that should be “all” you need to do for the company branding. You can play around some more with the Google+ Business Page and you can add map, product, address and other information which will also get shown by Google in various places.

2. Personal Branding – You as a creator of content. AUTHOR Boost

If you create truly meaningful content then you should go forwards with this option. This particular post that I am writing now would count as meaningful, original content. If you put up a blog post with the line “Here is a picture of a chair I like” – then that is not meaningful content. The content needs lots of original stuff (pictures and/or words and/or video).

Personal branding will mean that sometimes Google will very kindly put your Google+ image (from earlier) next to your content when it appears in their search results. Not always. Sometimes. When they choose. You can’t control it (and from 2015 onwards Google have decided to display it much less as it attracted people away from clicking on their ads !!)

You add this line to EVERY post your write and/or every page of your web site. You change the 4444444444 with your personal Google+ Account (not your company page. The company page will not work. Don’t do it. Honest).

<a href=https://plus.google.com/44444444444 rel=”author”>

Do not try and confused Google between the real you and your company…it will NOT work.