Tag: domestic fabric

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Fabric Tips #13: Velvet Curtain Making

Image by tenz1225 via Flickr

Here are some additional pointers to consider when you are making a curtain using a velvet. Remember that a velvet is just a type of fabric and the fibre(s) that the velvet is made from is important.

So for example, we would always recommend that you line a curtain. This gives a superior appearance but also reduced the amount of light going through the fabric hence limiting as much as possible the effect of any fading.

If the velvet has a pile that can be flattened in one direction then we would recommend that you have the pile going downwards for SHINY velvet fabrics and PATTERNED VELVETS.

If however you make up the curtain with the pile upwards then this will deepen the colour so you could make the curtains this way for cotton velvets and Trevira Velvet and Mohair velvets.

These are general guidelines and it is not necessarily wrong if you make up the curtain ‘the other way’ just so long as you understand the implications to the finished look and performance of the material.

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Fabric Tips #12: Rolling a velvet

Image via Wikipedia

You’ve just ordered a new velvet and unrolled it to admire your purchase. But how do you re-roll it?

When you roll almost any fabric you should have the face on the inside. With a velvet this is the pile so you have the pile on the inside.

Some, but not all, velvet piles stand straight up others will ‘lay down’. for the former it does not matter which way you then roll the fabric (provided the pile is on the inside). However for typically longer pile which lays down (ie you can brush it flat with your hand in one direction only) then you should roll the fabric down the pile as you return it to its roll.

Hopefully that made sense. Good luck.

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Fabric Tips #11: Mohair Velvet – How To Store

Image via Wikipedia – Alpaca Wool can be made into luxurious alpaca velvet…if you can find it

How to store Velvet.

The same instructions apply to all velvets.

Some background first: As an interior designer you buy and handle many fabrics. You may have wondered why some fabrics come in rolls of up to 100m whereas other come in much smaller lengths. Is this because of their value? The likelihood of them being sold quickly enough? Or perhaps longer lengths of some fabrics would be just to heavy for someone in a warehouse to physically carry or indeed too heavy for a courier to carry? Or perhaps it’s something to do with the thickness of the roll?

Well there is some truth no doubt in all of these reasons and others to. But one very important consideration with a velvet and especially with a Mohair velvets is the weight of the fabric and the weight of the fabric ON ITSELF. Because velvets have a pile they are thicker and heavier than other fabrics as they contain more material; similarly some velvets such as many mohair velvets have a dense pile…again more fabric and more weight.

There comes a point when the sheer weight of the roll of fabric becomes too much for the pile of the first part of the wrapped fabric on the roll and the inherent weight of all the fabric can cause damage to the pile. So velvets and especially mohair velvets have smaller lengths on the roll. Sometimes 25m but sometimes also 40m and 50m per roll.

So the length of fabric on a roll will be impacted by the weight of the fabric per linear metre AND the fact that a pile fabric can be more affected by added weight than other fabric.

So, how to store.

1. Store horizontally

2. Store with no other, external weight applied to the fabric.

3. Covered up to avoid exposure to dirt and dust i the air  -especially if stored for long periods

Typically you will find that many of our velvets come to you in special containers where the velvet is on a roll and suspended by special cardboard ends in the boxes. For small volumes of velvet on a single roll there is often no need for these special containers. Where the velvets are supplied in suspended roll containers it is safe to store the velvet in this form. Ideally youwould have a horizontal racking system for rolls of fabric as lengths can easily be cut off as and when you need them but cleary most interior designers do not have this facility.

The safest method of course is to let your supplier hold the stock and order cut lengths from them. It de-risks you damaging the fabric. Unless of course the supplier can specifically reserve entire rolls just for you, you would have the potential problem of dye lot or batch variation of colour with many fabric dyes. There would normally be a charge for an additional service such as this.

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Upholstery Linen – Sourcing Luxury Upholstery Linen in the UK

Upholstery Linen
Upholstery Linen

Upholstery Linen is notoriously difficult for interior designers to source. Sourcing linens for curtains is easy enough but often linens are not woven with sufficient strength to score Martindale results that are high enough to warrant using the fabric for upholstery.

Some suppliers can be a little evasive and will quote the weight of the linen as a measure of the linen’s quality. The implication is that the higher the weight the better suited the fabric will be for upholstery. There is some truth in that implication but you cannot say for certain that high-weight linen is inherently suitable for upholstery. Get the Martindale!

Most KOTHEA luxury upholstery linens have inherent Martindale rub tests of around 20,000 rubs with one range further strengthened to 85,000 rubs for contract usage – 20,000 Martindale being eminently suitable for domestic upholstery.

Furthermore, when buying upholstery- (or curtain-) linen you need to know whether or not it will shrink when washed. Linen ALWAYS shrinks. So what you have to find out is whether or not it has been pre-shrunk before you buy it. A common way of pre-shrinking linen is through the sanforisation process.

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Click To Read More Interior Design Articles

Here are the details of our new 2011 upholstery linens that are named Recline, Relax and Restful. We have many others, these are just the new ones:

Name: Recline

Usage: Luxury Contract Upholstery

Colourways: 24

Width:   135cm

Comp:  54% Li 35% Co 11% Pa

Weight: >350g/m2

Notes:   Martindale >85,000

Request Samples

Name: Relax

Usage: Luxury Domestic Upholstery

Colourways: 24

Width:  135cm

Comp: 100% Li

Weight: >265 g/m2

Notes:   Martindale >15,000

Request Samples

Name: Restful

Usage: Heavyweight Luxury Domestic Upholstery

Colourways: 4

Width:  135cm

Comp: 100% Li

Weight: >470 g/m2

Notes:   Martindale >45,000

Request Samples

 

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Contract Upholstery Fabric – How to Specify It

For a comprehensive guide to specifying fabric for hotel and hospitality projects, including Martindale thresholds by room type, BS 7176 fire certification, cleaning regime compatibility, and dye lot strategy, see: How to Specify Fabric for Hotel and Hospitality Projects.

A quick guide to specifying contract upholstery fabrics. The main areas to consider are as follows.

1. Determine Use

Is it panelling or seating? For seating you will need to consider flammability (cigarette, match, and Crib 5) and abrasion (Martindale).

2. Fabric Composition

The composition of the fabric including the yarn and weave will affect long-term wear, appearance, and technical performance. Natural fabrics such as wool can be more expensive but generally offer good handle and technical characteristics including natural flame retardancy. Man-made fabrics are usually easier to maintain but require careful selection to achieve the right aesthetic.

3. Flammability

The standard for contract seating acceptable throughout the EU is EN 1021 Parts 1 and 2 (cigarette and match). Higher-level standards in the UK are BS 5852 Crib 5 and BS 7176. The standard for vertical surface fabrics is BS 476 Part 7. For a full explanation see our complete guide to BS 5852 Crib 5.

4. Abrasion

Check the Martindale rub count for the fabric. For contract seating in hotels, restaurants, and offices, a minimum of 40,000 Martindale rubs is the standard threshold.

5. Environmental Considerations

Natural fibres such as wool generally have better environmental credentials than synthetic alternatives. Nylon in particular has a high environmental impact.

6. Care and Maintenance

Contract fabrics typically deteriorate from dirt accumulation rather than abrasion. Follow the manufacturer’s cleaning instructions. Remove stains promptly and vacuum regularly.

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Black Velvet – Even Better Italian Silk Velvet In Black

Black Velvet – only to be enjoyed by those who appreciate that black is the new black! KOTHEA have a range of velvets with shades of black colourways in most of those velvet collections.

“Black Diamond” is the colourway name for the Italian Silk Velvet (100% Silk Pile) with the code 777-108-900.

You can get black silk velvet samples here from KOTHEA if you are a trade professional. Just click the link.

KOTHEA velvets are the best in the market. We only sell top market fabrics, mostly to top European Interior Designers and Architects. Here are some more bits of technical information on our black Italian Silk velvet fabric:

Width: 140cm

Composition: 100% Silk Pile

No repeat, plain.

Abrasion: Martindale 20,000.

Available from stock, normal delivery within 5 days.

Minimum Order length: 2m

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What Is Sanforisation? Sanforised and Sanforising Explained for Interior Designers

What Is Sanforisation? Sanforised and Sanforising Explained for Interior Designers

What it is: A mechanical pre-shrinking finishing process applied to woven fabric before it leaves the mill. Named after Sanford Lockwood Cluett, who patented the process in 1930.
Which fabrics: Most commonly applied to cotton and linen. Also used on some cotton-blend upholstery and shirting fabrics.
Why it matters: Fabric that has not been sanforised may shrink when used in curtains or upholstery that are subsequently washed or exposed to moisture. Sanforised fabric has been pre-shrunk to defined limits at the mill, reducing but not eliminating subsequent shrinkage.
On the label: Sanforised is a registered trademark. Fabric labelled Sanforised has been tested and certified to shrink no more than 1% in either direction. Sanforised-Plus is the rating for fabrics with even greater dimensional stability.

Sanforising is a mechanical finishing process applied to woven fabric to reduce the shrinkage that would otherwise occur when the fabric is exposed to moisture or heat after making up. Interior designers encounter the term on fabric data sheets and labels, most commonly on cotton and linen upholstery and curtain fabrics. Understanding what it means and what it does not guarantee is a practical specification consideration.

How the Process Works

Sanforising passes the woven fabric through a machine that compresses it mechanically in the warp direction — along the length of the fabric. A rubber blanket is stretched and then released, and the fabric is carried through this process so that the yarns are forced into a more compact arrangement in the warp direction before they are set by steam. The result is a fabric whose yarns have already been displaced into the position they would naturally move to if the fabric were washed. When the finished curtain or upholstered piece is subsequently washed or exposed to moisture, the fabric has less remaining tendency to shrink because the displacement has already occurred.

The process addresses warp shrinkage — shrinkage along the length of the fabric. Weft shrinkage — shrinkage across the width — is controlled by a separate process called tentering, in which the fabric is held to a defined width during drying and heat setting. Sanforised fabric has typically been through both processes.

What Sanforised Means on a Label

Sanforised is a registered trademark owned by Cluett, Peabody and Co. Fabric carrying the Sanforised mark has been independently tested and certified to shrink no more than 1% in either the warp or weft direction when washed. This is the residual shrinkage after the sanforising process — fabric may still shrink by up to 1% in each direction, but no more.

Sanforised-Plus is a higher standard, certifying residual shrinkage of no more than 0.5% in either direction. It appears on some high-quality cotton fabrics and performance linens.

Fabric described as pre-shrunk rather than Sanforised may have been through a similar mechanical process but without independent certification to the same standard. The level of residual shrinkage permitted under a pre-shrunk claim is not standardised.

What It Does Not Guarantee

Sanforised certification applies to shrinkage caused by washing. It does not address all the dimensional changes that fabric may undergo in use. Natural fibre fabrics — cotton and linen in particular — absorb and release atmospheric moisture as humidity changes. This hygroscopic behaviour causes minor dimensional changes that are distinct from washing shrinkage and are not addressed by sanforising. In environments with significant humidity variation — a room that alternates between very dry and very damp conditions — even sanforised linen or cotton may show minor dimensional change over time.

Sanforised certification also does not address the relaxation shrinkage that may occur in curtains hung under their own weight over time, particularly in heavy cotton or linen fabrics. This is a tension-release effect rather than a moisture-induced shrinkage and is unrelated to the sanforising process.

Relevance for Upholstery Specification

For upholstery fabrics that will not be washed — most contract upholstery is dry-clean or spot-clean only — sanforised certification has limited direct relevance to the face fabric performance. Where it matters most is in curtain fabrics that will be laundered, and in loose covers and cushion covers in domestic settings where machine washing is planned.

For linen upholstery fabrics, the dimensional stability of the fabric during making-up is more practically significant than its washing shrinkage. A fabric that relaxes or distorts during the tension applied in upholstery construction will affect the alignment of the finished piece regardless of its sanforised status. Confirm dimensional stability under tension with the supplier for any linen or cotton fabric being used in tight upholstery applications.

For linen upholstery fabric specification, see our upholstery linen page. For fabric care and cleaning codes, see our fabric care symbols guide. For fabric hand and how natural fibres behave in use, see our fabric hand and tactile properties guide.

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Moleskin Upholstery Fabric

Moleskin Upholstery FabricMoleskin Fabric is an unusual fabric for upholstery, usually associated with clothing. KOTHEA moleskin is a premium moleskin specifically designed for upholstery with Martindale Rubs between 20,000 and 30,000. Moleskin is often a blend of cotton and linen; however KOTHEA‘s 100% cotton moleskin is extremely tightly woven ensuring that a luxurious look and feel is guaranteed. The overall look is similar to suede yet more exclusive and durable.

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Cashmere Throws – Luxury Refined From KOTHEA

Cashmere is the most exclusive wool practically available for interiors use. It is sometimes called Pashmina, and a few other things, but essentially Cashmere is what the wool really is and it rarely comes from Kashmir!

There are one or two wools that are possibly ‘better’ (ie warmer or softer) but they are extremely expensive (such as Vicuna). They are SO expensive and ‘rare’ that you will never come across them in reality unless you work in a very niche area of the fashion fabrics market. I have never even heard about such fabrics being available for interiors use, let alone seen or touched them. Although I would imagine it would not be dissimilar from cashmere!

Which brings me back to Cashmere Throws.

Maybe you already have a Cashmere Throw, or possibly a Cashmere scarf. They feel wonderful. It is not just marketing hype either, there are a variety of technical reasons why the Cashmere yarn makes fabrics that are warmer and softer to the touch than any other woolen yarn.

Yet there remains a huge variation in price from one Cashmere throw to the next. Why?

We have struggled to answer that question ourselves. Cashmere Throws can retail at £2,000. Yet the quality is only very good. Scarves too can easily cost several hundreds of pounds (and upwards).

So we are about to release Cashmere Throws that are better than everyone else. We are using: higher quality, thicker yarns than anyone else; sourcing our own designs, qualities and colours from the best mills.

I can guarantee that if you put one of our throws next to any competing alternative you would always choose a KOTHEA Cashmere Throw. We would even let our competitor choose the criteria that they wish to compete on! We are SO confident that our throws win on all counts.

Or you could go and buy one for £2,000 from somewhere else and be unsure that you have the best.

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The Cigarette & Match Tests BS 5852

For comprehensive guides to the main UK fire standards for interior fabrics, see: BS 5852 Crib 5: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers and FR Treatment, BS 7176, and the Crib 5 Test.

No fabric company can self-certify the fire retardancy of their fabrics. Certification can only be issued by a UKAS-accredited test laboratory.

The following is a summary of fire retardancy requirements by application. For detailed advice on current legislative requirements, consult a specialist fire testing laboratory or your local fire officer.

Domestic

Curtains. No fire treatment is required for domestic curtains.

Upholstery. The fabric must pass the match test (BS 5852 Source 1). The designer must first confirm the fabric passes the cigarette test (BS 5852 Source 0). The cigarette test meets the equivalent European standard BS EN 1021-1. The match test meets BS EN 1021-2. Fabrics containing at least 75% natural fibre content do not usually require treating for the cigarette test, but a Schedule 3 fire-retardant interliner must be used.

Contract

Curtains. The fabric must be treated to BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. Some fabrics meet this standard inherently; most require treatment. Some fabrics cannot be treated to this standard.

Upholstery. The fabric must be treated to BS 5852 Source 5 (Crib 5). This typically involves the fabric being back-coated, and most fabrics can be treated in this way. BS 7176 covers BS 5852 and additionally includes the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak requirement.

Other Applications

Headboards, bed covers, wall coverings, yacht interiors, and aviation interiors may have differing requirements. Confirm the applicable standard with the relevant authority before specifying.

There is broad equivalence between British and European standards. Standards for the United States are different and should be confirmed separately for any project with US compliance requirements.

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