Tag: contract fabrics

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Textile Performance Guidelines (USA Only)

ACT is the acronym for Association for Contract Textiles, which is a not-for-profit trade organization made up primarily of the companies that supply textiles to the contract interior design industry.

The ACT Textile Performance Guidelines

In order to make textile specification easier, ACT member companies adopted a body of popular tests that measure important performance criteria for textiles in the contract interior textiles market. The results of these specific tests are represented by graphic symbols, which are used on ACT-member company textile sampling to indicate that a specific textile performs to contract standards for its recommended application.

The Guidelines are a selection of the numerous tests for textile performance that have been established (and are periodically reviewed) by standards organizations, such as ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials: www.astm.org) and AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists: www.aatcc.org).

ACT has developed the following voluntary Performance Guidelines to make textile specification easier. The 5 symbols give architects, designers, and end-users a vast amount of performance information in a succinct visual way. Look for these symbols on INSTYLE CONTRACT TEXTILE sampling to assure that the textiles you specify perform to contract standards and pass all applicable testing.

These categories describe a textile’s performance features as measured by specified methods under standard laboratory conditions.’

Flammability

The measurement of a fabric’s performance when it is exposed to specific sources of ignition.
Note: ACT guidelines specify different flammability tests dictated by the intended end use for the fabric.

ACT Guidelines
Upholstery
California Technical Bulletin #117 Section E – Class 1 (Pass)

Direct Glue Wallcoverings
ASTM E 84-03 (Adhered Mounting Method) – Class A or Class 1

Wrapped Panels and Upholstered Walls
ASTM E 84-03 (Unadhered Mounting Method) – Class A or Class 1

Drapery
NFPA 701-89 (Small Scale)* – Pass* NFPA 701-99 Test #1 is being phased in at this time, but is not yet cited in all relevant codes. Therefore, the small-scale test remains the ACT standard until further notice.

TEST METHODS
California Technical Bulletin #117
Section E* – Class 1 (Pass)
The California TB #117 Section E is a test method of the California Bureau of Home Furnishings and Thermal Insulation. It is a vertical flame test measuring the ease of ignition and the burning rate when a small open flame hits the surface of the test fabric for 1 second. A Class 1 (Pass) rating is assigned if:

1. A 5.0 inch section of the fabric is consumed in 3.5 or more seconds (less than 3.5 seconds is a failure). For raised surface fabric, the minimum burn time is increased to 4.0 seconds.

2. An average char length of less than 6.5 inches or an individual specimen over 7.5 inches.

* For complete technical details about California Bulletin #117 Section E:
https://www.bhfti.ca.gov/techbulletin/117.pdf

ASTM E 84-03* Tunnel Test
The ASTM E-84 test is a test method of the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Commonly called the Tunnel Test, this test can be performed under two different methods adhered or non adhered where the only difference is in specimen preparation:

Adhered: The fabric is bonded to either a CA board substitute or gypsum board. This is the prescribed method for wall coverings whose actual use will be adhered .

Non adhered: If the fabric is a panel fabric or upholstered walls, it is tested in a frame without being bonded to any other material.

In each instance (adhered and non adhered), the fabric is placed in the ceiling of the test tunnel and subjected at one end to a high intensity flame which spreads over the first 4.5 feet of the 24 foot test specimen.

The distance of flame front progression and total burning time are used to calculate a flame spread index. Smoke monitors are used to calculate a smoke developed value. The flame spread index and smoke developed value are calculated from the results of the test fabric compared to the characteristics of cement board and red oak materials resulting in the indexes.

Typically, the code classes are as follows:
Class A: Flame Spread Index of 25 or less and Smoke Developed value of 450 or less
Class B: Flame Spread Index of 26 to 75 and Smoke Developed value of 450 or less
Class C: Flame Spread Index of 76 to 200 and Smoke Developed value of 450 or less

Caution: The ASTM E 84 test is only valid if the textile or vinyl wall covering is used in a sprinklered occupancy. If not, the Room Corner Test (NFPA 265 for textiles; and NFPA 286 for vinyl) is mandated in many jurisdictions.

* For complete technical details about ASTM E 84-03: https://www.astm.org

NFPA 701-89 (Small Scale)*
The NFPA 701-89 (Small Scale) is a test method of the National Fire Protection Agency. It measures the ignition resistance of a fabric after it is exposed to a flame for 12 seconds. The flame, char length and flaming residue are recorded. The fabric will pass the test if all samples meet the following criteria (if one sample fails the fabric fails):

1) an after flame of less then 2.0 seconds

2) a char length of less then 6.5

3) the specimen does not continue to flame after reaching the floor of the test chamber

Note: NFPA 701-99 Test #1 is being phased in at this time, but is not yet cited in all relevant codes. Therefore, the small-scale test remains the ACT standard until further notice.

* For complete technical details about NFPA 701: https://www.nfpa.org

Revised October 2003

Wet & Dry Crocking

Transfer of dye from the surface of a dyed or printed fabric onto another surface by rubbing.

ACT GUIDELINES
Upholstery
AATCC 8-2001
Dry Crocking, Grade 4 minimum.
Wet Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.

Direct Glue Wallcovering
AATCC 8-2001
Dry Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.
Wet Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.

Wrapped Panels & Upholstered Walls
AATCC 8-2001
Dry Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.
Wet Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.

Drapery
AATCC 8-2001 (Solids)
Dry Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.
Wet Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.

AATCC 16-2001 (Prints)
Dry Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.
Wet Crocking, Grade 3 minimum.

TEST METHODS
AATCC 8-2001*
The AATCC 8-2001 is a test method of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). This method uses a standard white cotton fabric that is rubbed against the surface of the test fabric. To test for wet crocking the standard fabric is wet before rubbing against the test fabric. After rubbing under controlled pressure for a specific number of times the amount of color transferred to the white test squares is compared to an AATCC color chart and a rating is established.

Grade 5 = no color transfer
Grade 1 = high degree of color transfer

* For complete technical details about AATCC 8: https://www.aatcc.org

AATCC 116-2001*
The AATCC 116-2001 is a test method of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). This test is specifically used for printed fabrics that do not lend themselves to the AATCC 8-2001 method. The test fabric is held at the base of a Rotary Vertical Crockmeter and rubbed with a standard cotton white fabric either dry or wet. After rubbing under controlled pressure for a specific number of times the amount of color transferred to the white test squares is compared to an AATCC color chart and a rating is established.

* For complete technical details about AATCC 116: https://www.aatcc.org

Revised October 2003

Colorfastness to Light

A material’s degree of resistance to the fading effect of light.

ACT GUIDELINES
Upholstery
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum at 40 hours

Direct Glue Wallcoverings
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum at 40 hours

Wrapped Panels and Upholstered Walls
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum at 40 hours

Drapery
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum at 60 hours

TEST METHOD
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3 – 2003*
The AATCC 16 Option 1 and 3 are test methods of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). ACT recognizes both methods where the only difference is the light source being used. In AATCC 16 Option 1 a Carbon-Arc lamp is used as the light source and in AATCC 16 Option 3 a Xenon-Arc lamp is used. Under both methods a strip of fabric (part of which is protected by a special paper card) is placed in a fadometer and exposed to 40 hours of accelerated fading units (AFU). After the exposure the difference in color between the exposed and protected parts of the fabric are compared to the AATCC gray scale and the degree of fading is rated.

Grade 5 = no fading
Grade 4 = slight fading
Grade 1 = high degree of fading

* For complete technical details about AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3 – 2003: https://www.aatcc.org

Revised October 2003

Physical Properties

Physical property tests include: Brush Pill, Breaking Strength and Seam Slippage. Pilling is the formation of fuzzy balls of fiber on the surface of a fabric that remain attached to the fabric. Breaking strength is the measurement of stress exerted to pull a fabric apart under tension. Seam Slippage is the movement of yarns in a fabric that occurs when it is pulled apart at a seam.

ACT GUIDELINES
Upholstery
Brush pill
ASTM D3511-02, Class 3 minimum

Breaking strength
ASTM D5034-95 (2001) (Grab Test)
50 lbs. minimum in warp and weft

Seam slippage
ASTM D3597-02-D434-95
25 lbs. minimum in warp and weft

Wrapped Panels and Upholstered Walls
Breaking strength
ASTM D5034-95 (2001) (Grab Test)
35 lbs. minimum in warp and weft

Seam slippage
ASTM D3597-02-D434-95
25 lbs. minimum in warp and weft

Drapery
Seam slippage
ASTM D3597-02-D434-95
for fabrics under 6 oz./sq. yard
15 lbs. minimum in warp and weft

Seam slippage
ASTM D3597-02-D434-95
for fabrics over 6 oz./sq. yard
25 lbs. minimum in warp and weft

TEST METHODS
ASTM D3511-02*
The ASTM D3511-02 is a test method of the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM). This test utilizes nylon bristles to rub the surface of the test fabric for a specific amount of time. The number of pill balls are counted and given a 1 – 5 rating.

Class 5 = no pilling
Class 1 = severe pilling

* For complete technical details about ASTM D3511: https://www.astm.org

ASTM D5034-95 (2001) (Grab Test)*
The ASTM D5034-95 (2001) (Grab Test) is a test method of the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM). To evaluate, the fabric being tested is put into a machine that grips the fabric with two clamps. One clamp is stationary and the other moves away applying tension until the fabric breaks or ruptures. This test is performed in both the warp and weft directions. The number of pounds required to cause a fabric to break or rupture determines the rating.

* For complete technical details about ASTM D5034-95 (2001) (Grab Test): https://www.astm.org

ASTM D3597-02-D434-95*
The ASTM D3597-02-D434 is a test method of the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM). To measure a fabric’s ability to resist seam slippage, a seam is sewn in the test fabric using a standard thread, specific seam allowance and specific number of stitches per inch. The sewn fabric is then clamped at opposing side of the seam. One clamp is moved away from the other applying tension at the sewn seam. This test is performed in both the warp and filling directions. The tension is increased until the seam separates to a specific distance. The number of pounds required to cause separation due to yarn slippage determines the rating.

* For complete technical details about ASTM D3597-02-D434-95: https://www.astm.org

Revised October 2003

Abrasion

The surface wear of a fabric caused by rubbing and contact with another fabric.

ACT GUIDELINES
General Contract Upholstery
ASTM D4157-02 (ACT approved #10 Cotton Duck)
15,000 double rubs Wyzenbeek method

ASTM D4966-98 (12 KPa pressure)
20,000 cycles Martindale method

Heavy Duty
ASTM D4157-02 (ACT approved #10 Cotton Duck)
30,000 double rubs Wyzenbeek method

ASTM D4966-98 (12 KPa pressure)
40,000 cycles Martindale method

End use examples of heavy-duty installations where upholstery fabrics rated at 30,000 double rubs should be appropriate are single shift corporate, hotel rooms/suites, conference rooms and dining area usage.

ACT acknowledges that there are extreme wear situations that may require higher levels of abrasion resistance. End use examples that may require higher than 30,000 double rubs include: 24 hours transportation terminals, 24 hour telemarketing, 24 hour healthcare emergency rooms, 24 hour casino gambling areas, and such public gathering places as theatres, stadiums, lecture halls and fast food restaurants.

It is strongly suggested that double rubs exceeding 100,000 are not meaningful in providing additional value in use. Higher abrasion resistance does not necessarily indicate a significant extension of the service life of the fabric.

The Wyzenbeek and Martindale tests are the two methods commonly used to predict wear-ability. Actual performance is determined by many factors such as fiber content, weaves, finishes, furniture design, maintenance, cleaning, and usage. Durability of an upholstery fabric is a complex interaction (combination) of a number of performance tests that, in addition to abrasion, includes seam slippage, pilling, tensile strength, and usage.

There is no correlation between the Wyzenbeek and Martindale tests so it is not possible to estimate the number of cycles that would be achieved on one test if the results from the other test were known.

TEST METHODS
ASTM D4157-02**
Oscillatory Cylinder (Wyzenbeek)
The ASTM D4157-02 is a test of the American Society of Testing and Materials. A Wyzenbeek machine is used for this test allowing samples of the test fabric to be pulled tight in a frame and held stationary. Individual test specimens cut from the warp and weft direction are then rubbed back and forth using an ACT approved #10 cotton duck fabric* as the abradant. The number of double rub cycles achieved before two yarn breaks occur or noticeable wear is observed is recorded as the fabric s abrasion rating.

** For complete technical details about ASTM D4157-02: https://www.astm.org

* The wire screen abradant is recommended by ACT for use with vinyl and polyurethane coated upholstery and may also be used for testing 100% olefin fabrics.

ASTM D4966-98* Martindale
The ASTM D4966-98 is a test method of the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM). This is an oscillating test. Fabric samples are mounted flat and rubbed in a figure eight like motion using a piece of worsted wool cloth as the abradant. The number of cycles that the fabric can endure before fabric shows objectionable change in appearance (yarn breaks, pilling, holes) is counted. Number of cycles determines abrasion rating.

Source: Association for Contract Textiles

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Quirky, New Textured Weave Fabric For Contract & Domestic

KOTHEA Release New Fabric For Interiors

LONDON, England. 06-JULY-2009 11.30 AM: KOTHEA today announced it has expanded its extensive upholstery fabric collection by the addition of KOCAFELATTE. KOCAFELATTE is a somewhat quirky and hard wearing fabric with an unusual, fine patterned design. It is a striking fabric with a high Martindale result, achieved whilst maintaining the highest levels of exclusive design. It is well suited for a range of uses but targeted towards upholstery and cushions in either domestic or contract installations.

KOCAFELATTE
Reference: 02-002-415

Colour Shown: Champagne

Other colourways: 3

Width: 135cm

Repeat: V9 – H9cm

Composition: 100% Viscose

Martindale: 40,000 ‘rubs’

Primary Usage: General upholstery or window treatments, contract & domestic.

Type of fabric: Textured Weave

About KOTHEA.

KOTHEA are a top-market fabric house based in London serving customers throughout all of Europe and The Middle East. Founded in 1999 they have since continued to develop and sell an extensive range of timeless fabrics to the top architects, interior- and yacht-designers for projects ranging from mega-yachts to boutique hotels and from luxury spas to penthouses.

KOTHEA operate on a trade-only basis and their fabrics are available to the public through interior designers and specialist interior design shops such as Gotham, Interiors Bis and Fiona Campbell. KOTHEA also supply beautiful hand-woven linen fabrics and finished goods – throws and table linen.

KOTHEA’s trade customers would perceive their signature fabrics to include several ranges of velvet including the exclusive ‘cashmere silk velvet’, silks, linens, double-width sheers, faux leather and interesting weaves for upholstery often with high Martindale ‘rub tests’ making them highly suited to both contract and residential projects.

Founder and Executive Director, Lisa Parsons started KOTHEA more than 10 years ago after 11 highly successful years with Nobilis Fontan in Chelsea and Donghia in Chelsea Harbour. She says, “At KOTHEA we like to think we bring something a little different to the market. Our difference will be reflected in our customers’ eyes by unusual fabrics that complement our core fabric ranges; all augmented by our excellent levels of customers service, market knowledge and attention to detail.”

# # #

For Further Information

Please visit the company web site at https://www.kothea.com

Trademarks

KOTHEA is a registered trade mark of KOTHEA Limited. Other names may be trademarks of their respective owners.

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Colourfastness – Testing to US standards

Colorfastness to Light

A material’s degree of resistance to the fading effect of light.

ACT GUIDELINES (USA :: Association for Contract Textiles)

Upholstery
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum
at 40 hours

Direct Glue Wallcoverings
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum
at 40 hours

Wrapped Panels and Upholstered Walls
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum
at 40 hours

Drapery
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3-2003 Grade 4 minimum
at 60 hours

QuickTime Movies (click link to play)
Colorfastness to light

TEST METHOD
AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3 – 2003*
The AATCC 16 Option 1 and 3 are test methods of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). ACT recognizes both methods where the only difference is the light source being used. In AATCC 16 Option 1 a Carbon-Arc lamp is used as the light source and in AATCC 16 Option 3 a Xenon-Arc lamp is used. Under both methods a strip of fabric (part of which is protected by a special paper card) is placed in a fadometer and exposed to 40 hours of accelerated fading units (AFU). After the exposure the difference in color between the exposed and protected parts of the fabric are compared to the AATCC gray scale and the degree of fading is rated.

Grade 5 = no fading
Grade 4 = slight fading
Grade 1 = high degree of fading

* For complete technical details about AATCC 16 Option 1 or 3 – 2003: https://www.aatcc.org

Source: Association for contract textiles (USA)

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What is wet (or dry) crocking in relation to fabric?

What Is Crocking? Wet and Dry Crocking on Fabrics Explained

Crocking is the transfer of dye from the surface of a dyed or printed fabric onto another surface by rubbing. Wet crocking occurs when the fabric is damp or wet; dry crocking occurs when the fabric is dry. Wet crocking is almost always more severe than dry crocking because moisture mobilises dye molecules that would otherwise remain fixed.

Crocking is tested to ISO 105-X12 using a standard rubbing cloth that is pressed against the fabric sample and rubbed a defined number of times under controlled pressure. The degree of colour transferred to the rubbing cloth is assessed against the Grey Scale, with 5 indicating no transfer and 1 indicating severe transfer. Contract upholstery fabrics should achieve a minimum of grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet to be acceptable for general use.

For a complete guide to crocking, colour fastness testing, and what the grades mean for specification, see our colour fastness and crocking guide. For dye types and how they affect crocking risk, see our dye types guide.

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Match & Cigarette Tests :: Equivalents in USA

Flammability


The measurement of a fabric’s performance when it is exposed to specific sources of ignition.

Note: Association of Contract Textiles (ACT) guidelines specify different flammability tests dictated by the intended end use for the fabric.

Association of Contract Textiles Guidelines

Upholstery
California Technical Bulletin #117 Section E –
Class 1 (Pass)

Direct Glue Wallcoverings
ASTM E 84-03 (Adhered Mounting Method) –
Class A or Class 1

Wrapped Panels and Upholstered Walls
ASTM E 84-03 (Unadhered Mounting Method) –
Class A or Class 1

Drapery
NFPA 701-89 (Small Scale)* – Pass*NFPA 701-99 Test #1 is being phased in at this time, but is not yet cited in all relevant codes. Therefore, the small-scale test remains the ACT standard until further notice.

QuickTime Movies (click links to play)NFPA 701-99 (Small Scale) California TB #117 Section E

TEST METHODS
California Technical Bulletin #117
Section E* – Class 1 (Pass)
The California TB #117 Section E is a test method of the California Bureau of Home Furnishings and Thermal Insulation. It is a vertical flame test measuring the ease of ignition and the burning rate when a small open flame hits the surface of the test fabric for 1 second. A Class 1 (Pass) rating is assigned if:

1. A 5.0″ section of the fabric is consumed in 3.5 or more seconds (less than 3.5 seconds is a failure). For raised surface fabric, the minimum burn time is increased to 4.0 seconds.

2. The fabric does not ignite.

* For complete technical details about California Bulletin #117 Section E: https://www.bhfti.ca.gov/techbulletin/117.pdf

ASTM E 84-03* Tunnel Test
The ASTM E-84 test is a test method of the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Commonly called the Tunnel Test, this test can be performed under two different methods adhered or non adhered where the only difference is in specimen preparation:

Adhered: The fabric is bonded to either a CA board substitute or gypsum board. This is the prescribed method for wall coverings whose actual use will be adhered .

Non adhered: If the fabric is a panel fabric or upholstered walls, it is tested in a frame without being bonded to any other material.

In each instance (adhered and non adhered), the fabric is placed in the ceiling of the test tunnel and subjected at one end to a high intensity flame which spreads over the first 4.5 feet of the 24 foot test specimen.

The distance of flame front progression and total burning time are used to calculate a flame spread index . Smoke monitors are used to calculate a smoke developed value. The flame spread index and smoke developed value are calculated from the results of the test fabric compared to the characteristics of cement board and red oak materials resulting in the indexes.

Typically, the code classes are as follows:

Class A: Flame Spread Index of 25 or less and Smoke Developed value of 450 or less

Class B: Flame Spread Index of 26 to 75 and Smoke Developed value of 450 or less

Class C: Flame Spread Index of 76 to 200 and Smoke Developed value of 450 or less

Caution: The ASTM E 84 test is only valid if the textile or vinyl wall covering is used in a sprinklered occupancy. If not, the Room Corner Test (NFPA 265 for textiles; and NFPA 286 for vinyl) is mandated in many jurisdictions.

* For complete technical details about ASTM E 84-03: https://www.astm.org

NFPA 701-89 (Small Scale)*
The NFPA 701-89 (Small Scale) is a test method of the National Fire Protection Agency. It measures the ignition resistance of a fabric after it is exposed to a flame for 12 seconds. The flame, char length and flaming residue are recorded. The fabric will pass the test if all samples meet the following criteria (if one sample fails the fabric fails):

1) An after flame of less then 2.0 seconds

2) An average char length of less than 6.5″ or an individual specimen of 7.5″.

3) The specimen does not continue to flame after reaching the floor of the test chamber

Note: NFPA 701-99 Test #1 is being phased in at this time, but is not yet cited in all relevant codes. Therefore, the small-scale test remains the ACT standard until further notice.

* For complete technical details about NFPA 701: https://www.nfpa.org

Revised October 2003:

Source: Association For Contract Textiles

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Fabric Colour Trends 2009-10

We are doing some work for a medium sized architectural practice. One of the partners asked me what the ‘in-vogue’ colours were for fabrics. This got me thinking.

There’s the usual stock answer where a fabric company would quote something which sounded like we were dress makers. “The in-vogue colours are the colours on the cat-walk”. Luckily I didn’t answer that way, partly because I haven’t been to a Paris catwalk for a while and partly because what colours we wear are not the colours we design our interior spaces with. I have a few reds and ochres in my wardrobe but none on my walls. Similarly I probably have proportionately very much more taupe around the house than around my body. So clearly the cat-walk comparison is wrong.

The time delay as well. There must be 2-6 months delays in getting the very latest fashions from the catwalk to the mass market retail outlets. It’s pretty hard to turn out new fabric collections regularly in that timeframe.

And then I thought some more. The job was for a Mediterranean villa. Are the colour trends in this country and in this climate the same as in such warmer climbs? Probably not. Hotter climates favour colours that are physically cooler. Picture the white houses of a stereotyped Greek village.

And then I thought about personalities. The villa owner is a wealthy and aesthetically discerning business leader. Will that sort of person have the same tastes and influences as the middle classes of a London suburb? Or will their Chelsea architect/designer reflect the aesthetic views of their personal domain? Some well-known designers push the same colour schemes again and again – because they look great and they work. Is that a trend?

So I came to the conclusion that what defines a colour trend will vary. It will vary by geography, by social aspirations & standing and many other factors. I’m not sure they vary by time that rapidly how we furnish, organise and decorate our houses does change but that change is more on the scale of a decade than the fadish seasonal change for clothing.

That seemed a bit of a cop out answer though. Let’s be analytical about it. What colours do we sell the most of? Well, to be honest, it is still the classic-contemporary feel. So plenty of taupes, white, muted neutrals and the delightfully named beiges. Even with the acidic greens, purples and violent colours of the early 2000s that were blasted in our faces on ‘Changing Rooms’; I have to say that the upper end of the market very, very rarely asked for or bought these colours. So surely the colours we sell are the ones that are on-trend? Maybe, but maybe also we self select the markets we target, the products we stock and hence the type of customer we attract.

And really I would probably question the original question as well. Fabric is much more than colour; texture and design are also key.

So where did that leave me? I probably should have thought of a sophisticated way of saying “just buy what you like” or “get to know what your client likes and sell them that” and said that, but I didn’t.

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Suitability of Linen Velvet For Upholstery

KOTHEA was asked if linen velvet fabric can be used for upholstery.

A. Yes

Our 100% linen velvet has a Martindale of 20,000 ‘rubs’.  So this is certainly suitable for domestic upholstery and also for light contract. As with all velvets a proper care regime should be in place to prolong the life of the fabric. Also check the Martindale figures of the specific fabric you intend to use as that test result is the most useful indication of suitability for upholstery.

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Cotton Velvet Rub Test

Cotton Velvet Rub Test: Martindale Count and Contract Suitability

The Martindale rub count of cotton velvet depends on the specific fabric construction — the pile density, pile height, yarn twist, and backing construction all affect the result. As a guide, a contract-grade cotton velvet achieves approximately 30,000 to 50,000 Martindale rubs, placing it in the general contract category suitable for hotel bedrooms, light restaurant use, and office seating. Kothea’s cotton velvet achieves approximately 50,000 Martindale rubs.

Cotton velvet is less abrasion-resistant than mohair velvet of equivalent pile weight. Mohair velvet typically achieves 60,000 to 100,000 or more rubs depending on the specific range. For environments requiring above 60,000 rubs — hotel lobbies, restaurant banquettes, bar seating — mohair velvet is the more appropriate specification. For a full comparison of velvet types and their Martindale counts, see our velvet types compared guide. For the Martindale rub test explained in full, see our Martindale rub test guide.

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Knit Backing Fabric For Contract Wall Covering

Knit Backing Fabric for Contract Wall Covering

Knit-backed fabric for wall covering applications consists of a face fabric — typically a woven or knitted textile — bonded to a lightweight knitted backing that stabilises the fabric for direct application to walls. The knit backing provides dimensional stability during installation, preventing the fabric from stretching or distorting when adhesive is applied, and allows the face fabric to conform smoothly to the wall surface without wrinkling.

For contract wall covering applications in non-domestic buildings, the fabric assembly — face fabric and backing together — must meet the applicable surface spread of flame standard. In the UK this is typically BS 476 Part 7 Class 1 for commercial interiors. The face fabric alone may meet Class 1 but the composite assembly with the backing must be tested and certified as a unit. For guidance on wall covering fire standards, see our BS 476 Part 7 guide and our wall panels and headboards guide.

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Dye Lot Variation in Fabrics

Fabrics are often woven in lengths of 50m, 100m or more. Manufacturers and distributors then hold these lengths and at some point a designer buys a smaller cut-length. If subsequently the fabric is damaged when being made up or if the end-client has requirements for additional fabric, then more is ordered. So far so good? But exactly which roll is the additional fabric going to be cut from?

It is important to realise that there can be variation in the dyes used. Normally manufacturers keep a record of the exact dye(s) used in the manufacturing process(es). This is a dye lot. The dye could have been added to make a coloured yarn early in the process or it could have been added to the fibre later if it is a printed fabric.

So when more fabric is ordered for the same client it is important to ensure the same dye lot was used as for the original order.

Variations do occur in almost all fabrics. So if the same dye lot cannot be re-ordered it is prudent for the designer to order a sample for matching. It is wise for designers, upholsterers, curtain- and cushion-makers to always request a sample to avoid costly mistakes.

Typically man-made/synthetic dyes are more easily chemically replicated and so are inherently less prone to dye lot variation. For natural products there is a much greater chance of variation. But again there is no hard and fast rule.

Colour also plays a part as some farbic colours are more prone to change because of the chemical structure of the dye and/or the fabric being used.

What if all the stock has been used and there is a variation? Do we have to start again?

Hopefully not and common sense has to prevail from time to time. For example, a dye lot variation can be negated by conditions in the final installation. So in the case where there are fabrics from different dye lots with one dye lot only used in each room only rarely will the be any noticeable difference from room to room. Even in the case where, say, curtains on different walls are made from different but similar dye lots then any dye lot variation can be made unnoticeable by the effect of varying amounts of sunlight through windows. Although bear in mind there are variations in the strength and type of light throughout the day and between sunlight and artificial light at night. Similarly in low light (cellar) conditions dye lot variation will be much less noticeable.

Finally bear in mind the age of the fabric/curtains and the degree to which they have been exposed to sunlight. Some fabrics naturally fade over time, depending on their colour fastness. In this case it is unlikely ever to be able to get a perfect match.