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Colour Fastness and Crocking: Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers

Orange, Black and red colourful velvets

Colour Fastness and Crocking: A Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers

Crocking grade minimum for contract upholstery: Grade 4 dry / Grade 3 wet (ISO 105-X12 grey scale)
Light fastness minimum for contract interiors: ISO 105-B02 grade 5 — grade 6 for south-facing or high-light environments
Highest crocking risk: Dark colourways, velvet pile fabrics, deeply saturated reds and navies
Reverse crocking risk: New denim, dark throw cushions, and clothing transferring dye onto light upholstery

Colour fastness describes how well a fabric retains its colour when exposed to the agents most likely to cause change: light, rubbing, cleaning, and moisture. Crocking is a specific type of colour fastness failure in which excess dye transfers from one surface to another through friction. Both are routine specification criteria for contract fabric but are consistently underspecified in residential projects, which is where most complaints about colour change and dye transfer originate.

This guide explains the two tests that matter most — ISO 105-B02 for light fastness and ISO 105-X12 for crocking — how to read the grades, which fabrics and colourways carry the highest risk, and what to specify to avoid problems in use. For colour naming, systems, and metamerism — why the same colour looks different in different light — see our colour naming and specification guide. For light fastness guidance specific to room orientation and project environment, see our complete guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale. For dye types and their interaction with FR treatment, see our post on dye types and FR treatment compatibility.

The Two Tests That Matter

Colour fastness is not a single test. It is a family of tests under the ISO 105 series, each measuring resistance to a specific agent. For interior fabric specification, two tests are routinely relevant and should appear on every contract fabric data sheet.

ISO 105-B02: Colour fastness to light. This test measures how resistant a fabric’s colour is to degradation by light. A xenon arc lamp simulates sunlight and the fabric is exposed for a controlled duration. The result is graded against the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8, where grade 1 indicates very poor light fastness and grade 8 indicates the highest possible resistance. For a full explanation of this test and the Blue Wool Scale, see our light fastness guide.

ISO 105-X12: Colour fastness to rubbing (crocking). This test measures how much dye transfers from a fabric onto other surfaces through friction. The fabric is rubbed with a standardised white cloth using a crockmeter — a machine that applies controlled pressure and movement — under both dry and wet conditions. The degree of staining on the white cloth is assessed using the grey scale for staining, graded from 1 to 5. Grade 5 indicates no staining. Grade 1 indicates severe staining. Most contract specifications require a minimum of grade 4 for dry rubbing and grade 3 for wet rubbing.

Understanding Crocking

Crocking occurs when dye that has not fully bonded to the fabric fibre transfers onto another surface through friction. Every dyed fabric contains some proportion of unfixed dye after manufacture. The degree of crocking depends on the dye class used, the dyeing process, the fibre type, and whether the fabric has been adequately washed and finished after dyeing to remove surplus dye.

Dry crocking is caused by mechanical abrasion alone. A fabric in good condition and correctly dyed will typically achieve a better dry crocking grade than wet. Wet crocking occurs when moisture is present — from perspiration, cleaning, or humidity — and is almost always worse than dry crocking because water molecules help loosen dye and carry it to the adjacent surface. This is why a fabric that appears stable in dry conditions can transfer colour noticeably on a humid day or after light spillage.

The fabrics most susceptible to crocking are those with rough or open pile surfaces, dark saturated colourways, and fibres that are difficult to dye with strong molecular bonds. Velvet is the most relevant category for interior designers. The pile surface of velvet creates more friction points than a flat-woven fabric and dye at the pile tips is more exposed to contact than dye within the body of a woven yarn. Dark velvet colourways — deep navy, rich red, dark green, charcoal — are dyed with higher concentrations of pigment and carry greater crocking risk than pale or mid-tone colourways of the same fabric.

Denim is the most commonly cited source of reverse crocking onto upholstery. New denim is typically dyed with indigo, which physically lodges within the fibre structure rather than forming a covalent bond. Indigo is easily dislodged by friction and moisture and will transfer readily onto light-coloured upholstery, particularly in warm or humid conditions. In a hotel or hospitality environment this is commercially significant: a guest in new jeans sitting on a pale upholstered chair can leave a visible mark within a single visit.

Crocking Grades: What They Mean in Practice

Grade 5: No staining. No dye transfers to the rubbing cloth. Rarely achieved by dark saturated colourways on pile fabrics.

Grade 4: Slight staining. A small amount of dye transfers but is barely visible. The minimum acceptable grade for dry crocking in most contract specifications.

Grade 3: Moderate staining. Visible dye transfer that would be noticeable in use. The minimum acceptable grade for wet crocking in most contract specifications. Grade 3 dry would indicate elevated crocking risk and should prompt discussion with the supplier before specifying for high-contact applications.

Grade 2: Significant staining. Noticeable colour transfer likely in use. Not acceptable for contract upholstery. May be flagged as acceptable for cushion or decorative applications only.

Grade 1: Severe staining. The fabric will visibly transfer colour in normal use. Not acceptable for any upholstery application.

The accepted industry minimum for contract upholstery fabrics is grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet. For hotel and hospitality environments where guests wear a wide range of clothing and the fabric is cleaned frequently, specifying grade 4 for both dry and wet provides better protection. Always confirm both grades — dry and wet — before specifying, as some suppliers report only the dry grade.

Crocking and Velvet: Specific Considerations

Velvet requires particular attention in crocking specification for two reasons. First, the pile structure creates more contact surface than a flat-woven fabric, increasing the potential for dye transfer in use. Second, velvet in dark colourways is dyed with higher pigment concentrations to achieve the depth of colour that makes dark velvet visually distinctive. The combination of pile structure and high pigment load means that dark velvets consistently achieve lower crocking grades than the same fabric in pale colourways.

This does not mean dark velvet cannot be specified for contract use. Mohair velvet in particular achieves good colour fastness due to the natural receptivity of the mohair fibre to acid dyes and the strong molecular bonds those dyes form with protein fibres. A well-dyed dark mohair velvet will typically achieve grade 3 to 4 dry and grade 3 wet, which is within the acceptable range for contract use. The key is confirming the actual grade for the specific colourway before specifying, not assuming a single grade applies across all colourways in the range.

Pale colourways of any velvet carry the reverse crocking risk: dye transfer from clothing onto the fabric. This is most acute with white, cream, and very pale colourways in environments where guests may be wearing freshly laundered dark clothing or new denim. For hotel seating in these colourways, confirm the crocking grade of the fabric in the context of incoming dye transfer, not just outgoing.

For a full comparison of velvet fibre types and their relevant specification data, see our velvet types compared guide.

Light Fastness and Crocking: How They Relate

Light fastness and crocking are distinct tests measuring different forms of colour stability, but they are both dye-related and a fabric that performs poorly on one will often perform poorly on both if the underlying dye chemistry is weak. A fabric dyed with reactive dyes, for example, will typically show moderate light fastness and may show crocking susceptibility, particularly after FR treatment. A fabric dyed with vat dyes — the most stable dye class — will achieve excellent light fastness and low crocking risk. Understanding the dye type used is therefore useful context when evaluating both grades.

The practical relationship for specifiers is as follows. A fabric that achieves light fastness grade 6 and crocking grade 4 dry is a well-dyed fabric with strong molecular dye-fibre bonds throughout. A fabric that achieves light fastness grade 3 and crocking grade 2 dry has weak dye-fibre bonds and is likely to show visible colour change and dye transfer in use within months. Neither extreme is always obvious from looking at the fabric in a showroom.

Always request both grades from the supplier before specifying for contract use. A supplier who cannot provide both grades — either because the fabric has not been tested or because the grades are not published — is a supplier whose fabric should not be specified for contract without independent testing.

Colour Fastness After FR Treatment

FR treatment can affect colour fastness. Back-coating, the most common method of applying Crib 5 treatment to upholstery fabrics, involves applying a chemical compound to the reverse of the fabric. Provided the treatment is applied correctly and does not penetrate the face of the fabric, it typically has no effect on the colour fastness or crocking grade of the face fabric.

Wet padding, used for certain curtain and lighter-weight fabrics, applies FR chemicals to the fabric in solution. Reactive dyes are known to be sensitive to the mild acidic conditions involved in some FR padding treatments. In some cases, fading can develop in the months following treatment — not immediately after, but progressively as atmospheric pollutants interact with the treated fabric. This is not visible at the time of installation and cannot be detected by standard pre-treatment testing. If specifying a fabric with reactive dyes for FR treatment, confirm with the treatment provider whether fading has been observed with that dye class on similar fabrics, and request sample swatches treated and stored for three to six months before committing to a full order.

For full detail on dye types and FR treatment interactions, see our post on dye types and FR treatment compatibility.

What to Check Before Specifying

Request the ISO 105-X12 crocking grade for both dry and wet conditions, and for the specific colourway you are ordering. Crocking grades can vary significantly between colourways within the same range, particularly between dark and pale colourways. A grade reported for the standard or mid-tone colourway in a range may not reflect the performance of the darkest available colourway.

Request the ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade for the specific colourway. As with crocking, light fastness varies between colourways and a dark colourway may achieve a higher grade than a pale one in the same range.

If the fabric is to be FR treated, confirm the dye class and whether fading problems have been observed with similar fabrics and treatments. Ask the treatment provider directly, not just the fabric supplier.

For hotel and hospitality projects, consider the reverse crocking risk for pale upholstery. The fabric’s own crocking grade tells you how much dye will transfer out. It does not tell you how resistant the fabric surface is to incoming dye transfer from guests’ clothing. Pale, tight-woven, or coated fabrics are more resistant to incoming dye transfer than pale velvet or pale linen.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is crocking in upholstery fabric?

Crocking is the transfer of excess dye from a fabric onto another surface through friction. It occurs when dye has not fully bonded to the fibre during dyeing, leaving surplus pigment on or near the surface that is dislodged by contact. Crocking can be dry, caused by mechanical friction alone, or wet, where moisture helps carry the dye to the adjacent surface. Wet crocking is almost always worse than dry. It is tested to ISO 105-X12 and graded 1 to 5, with grade 5 meaning no transfer and grade 1 meaning severe transfer. The minimum acceptable grades for contract upholstery are grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet.

Which fabrics crock the most?

Dark saturated colourways of pile fabrics — particularly velvet — carry the highest crocking risk. The pile surface creates more friction points than a flat-woven fabric and dark colourways are dyed with higher pigment concentrations. Denim is the most commonly cited source of reverse crocking onto upholstery, particularly onto pale fabrics. New denim dyed with indigo can transfer blue dye onto light-coloured seating on first contact. Cotton velvet in dark colourways has higher crocking risk than mohair velvet in comparable colourways due to the stronger molecular bond formed between acid dyes and protein fibres.

What crocking grade should I specify for hotel upholstery?

For hotel and hospitality upholstery, specify a minimum of grade 4 dry and grade 3 wet to ISO 105-X12. For pale upholstery in environments where guests wear a wide range of clothing, consider the reverse crocking risk from incoming dye transfer and prefer fabrics with tighter weave structures or protective finishes. For dark velvet in high-contact seating, confirm the specific colourway crocking grade with the supplier before ordering, as grades can vary significantly between the darkest and lightest colourways in the same range.

Does FR treatment affect crocking and colour fastness?

Back-coating, the most common method for upholstery, typically does not affect the face colour of the fabric if applied correctly. Wet padding treatments used for curtains and lighter fabrics can affect fabrics dyed with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes are sensitive to mild acidic conditions and can fade progressively in the months following treatment, a problem that is not visible at installation. If specifying a fabric with reactive dyes for FR treatment, confirm with the treatment provider whether this has been observed with similar fabrics.

What is the difference between crocking and light fastness?

Crocking is the transfer of dye to other surfaces through friction, tested to ISO 105-X12. Light fastness is the resistance of a fabric’s colour to degradation by light exposure, tested to ISO 105-B02 and graded on the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8. Both reflect the quality of the dye-fibre bond, and a fabric with weak dye chemistry will often perform poorly on both. They are separate tests and a fabric must be tested to both standards to report both grades. A high Martindale rub count does not imply good crocking or light fastness — these are entirely separate properties.

Can new jeans stain my upholstery?

Yes. New denim is typically dyed with indigo, which physically lodges within the cotton fibre rather than forming a chemical bond. Indigo transfers readily onto adjacent surfaces through friction, particularly in warm or humid conditions. The risk is highest with pale upholstery fabrics, particularly those with open or pile surfaces. Tight-woven, solution-dyed, or coated fabrics are more resistant to incoming dye transfer than velvet or linen. In hotel environments with pale seating, this is a practical specification consideration rather than a theoretical one.

For specification data on individual Kothea ranges see the mohair velvet, upholstery linen, and faux leather product pages.

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Faux Leather Types Compared: PVC vs PU vs Silicone Leather for Upholstery

Brown Faux Leather Upholstery Banquette

Faux Leather Types Compared: PVC, PU and Silicone Leather for Interior Designers

Most durable for contract use: PVC — highest abrasion resistance, best chemical resistance, inherently suited to Crib 5 certification
Softest handle: PU — closer to genuine leather in feel, better breathability, lower abrasion resistance than PVC
Best for marine, healthcare, and outdoor: Silicone leather — inherently flame resistant, UV stable, no plasticisers, widest temperature range
Kothea range: Faux Leather 3 is PVC — 100,000+ Martindale, Crib 5, wipe-clean, 140cm wide

Faux leather is not a single material. The term covers three structurally distinct product types — PVC, PU, and silicone leather — each with different performance profiles, fire characteristics, cleaning requirements, and environmental credentials. Specifying between them on the basis of appearance alone is the most common error in faux leather selection. This guide explains the differences that matter for a professional specification.

For background on Martindale rub counts referenced throughout this guide, see our Martindale rub test guide. For fire standards, see our Crib 5 guide and, for marine projects, our IMO marine fire standards guide.

What All Three Have in Common

PVC, PU, and silicone leather are all coated fabrics. They consist of a woven or knitted textile backing, typically polyester, to which a polymer coating is applied to create a surface that resembles leather. The backing provides tensile strength, dimensional stability, and the base for the coating to adhere to. The coating determines the surface properties: appearance, feel, stain resistance, fire behaviour, UV resistance, and cleaning compatibility.

All three can be produced in a wide range of colours and surface textures. All three are sold by the metre without the hide-size limitations of genuine leather. All three are easier to specify consistently across large projects than genuine leather, where dye lot and grain variation between hides is unavoidable. None requires the animal welfare considerations associated with genuine leather.

Beyond these shared characteristics, the three types diverge significantly in performance, sustainability, and appropriate application.

PVC Leather (Polyvinyl Chloride)

PVC leather is the most widely used faux leather in UK contract interiors. It consists of a PVC polymer paste coating applied over a polyester backing. The structure is dense and impermeable, with no open pores in the surface coating. This is what gives PVC leather its characteristic durability, stain resistance, and ease of cleaning.

Durability. PVC leather achieves the highest abrasion resistance of any faux leather type. High-specification PVC ranges routinely exceed 100,000 Martindale rubs. The dense multi-layer structure resists surface wear better than PU at equivalent price points. This makes PVC the default choice for hotel restaurant seating, bar stools, transport upholstery, and any application where the fabric will receive sustained and continuous contact.

Fire rating. PVC contains inherent fire-resistant properties due to its high chlorine content. A correctly formulated PVC faux leather can achieve BS 5852 Crib 5 certification without backcoating, though the specific compound formulation and any foam used in a composite test must be confirmed by an independent test certificate. PVC faux leather is among the most readily Crib 5-certifiable upholstery materials available.

Cleaning and chemical resistance. PVC resists water, alcohol, disinfectants, and most common cleaning agents. The impermeable surface can be wiped clean between uses without specialist products. This is the property that makes PVC faux leather the standard choice for healthcare environments, food and beverage seating, and any application where contamination is a practical concern. Confirm compatibility between specific cleaning agents and the specific product before specifying for environments using industrial or hospital-grade disinfectants.

Light fastness. PVC has good inherent UV resistance, typically achieving ISO 105-B02 grade 6 or above in mid and dark colourways. This is significantly better than most natural-fibre upholstery fabrics and makes PVC suitable for south-facing rooms and high-light environments where natural fabrics would require careful colourway selection.

Handle and breathability. PVC leather is the least breathable of the three types. In sustained contact, particularly in warm environments, the impermeable surface can feel warm or sticky. This is rarely a significant factor for seating used in short intervals — restaurant chairs, bar stools, meeting room chairs — but is relevant for seating used for extended periods, such as office chairs or long-haul transport seating where PU may be preferred.

Environmental profile. PVC has the highest environmental cost of the three types. The chlorine-based polymer produces dioxin compounds during manufacture and at end of life. PVC is difficult to recycle due to its mixed material composition. Many high-specification PVC faux leathers now use phthalate-free plasticiser formulations in response to EU REACH regulations, which address the most significant health concerns, but the underlying polymer chemistry remains a legitimate sustainability concern.

Cost position. Mid-range. High-specification PVC faux leather offering 100,000+ Martindale rubs and Crib 5 certification is competitively priced relative to the performance it delivers. It is typically less expensive than equivalent-performing PU microfibre or silicone leather.

Best for: Hotel restaurant and bar seating, healthcare upholstery, transport seating, high-traffic contract environments, marine exterior seating, headboards in hotel bedrooms, wall panelling in food and beverage environments.

Not recommended for: Extended-contact seating in warm environments where breathability matters. Projects with strict environmental sustainability requirements. Applications requiring inherent flame resistance without reliance on PVC chemistry.

PU Leather (Polyurethane)

PU leather consists of a polyurethane coating applied over a textile backing, typically a cotton or polyester base. The polyurethane surface is softer, more flexible, and more breathable than PVC, and produces a finish that more closely resembles genuine leather in handle and drape.

Durability. Standard PU leather achieves 30,000 to 80,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction and grade. High-specification PU microfibre products, where the PU coating is applied to a microfibre non-woven backing, can exceed 100,000 rubs and approach PVC performance. However, at equivalent price points, PVC typically outperforms standard PU in abrasion resistance. PU is also more susceptible to degradation from hydrolysis — the breakdown of the polymer by moisture and humidity over time — particularly in warm, humid environments. This is the primary cause of the peeling and surface delamination seen in lower-grade PU after two to three years of use.

Fire rating. PU does not have the inherent fire resistance of PVC. PU faux leather typically requires a fire-retardant additive or backcoating to achieve BS 5852 Crib 5 certification. The treatment adds cost and affects lead time. Always confirm the Crib 5 certification method with the supplier — whether inherent to the formulation or applied — and request the independent test certificate.

Cleaning and chemical resistance. PU leather is water-resistant but less resistant to solvents and alcohol than PVC. The micro-surface of PU is more prone to absorbing certain staining agents over time. PU is generally not recommended for environments where strong disinfectants are used routinely. Confirm the specific cleaning regime with the supplier before specifying for healthcare or high-frequency cleaning environments.

Light fastness. PU achieves good light fastness — typically ISO 105-B02 grade 5 to 6 — though slightly lower than PVC in most cases. Standard PU is not recommended for outdoor use. High-specification PU microfibre designed for automotive applications achieves better UV performance, but standard contract PU faux leather should be confirmed for light fastness before specifying in south-facing or high-light environments.

Handle and breathability. PU is softer and more breathable than PVC. In extended seating use it is more comfortable and does not produce the warm or sticky sensation associated with PVC in warm conditions. For office seating, residential-specification seating in hospitality environments, and any application where extended contact comfort matters, PU offers a noticeably better tactile experience.

Environmental profile. PU is more environmentally benign than PVC in manufacture and disposal. It does not contain chlorine and does not produce dioxins. Some PU products use water-based polyurethane systems, which significantly reduce VOC emissions during manufacture. PU is the more sustainable choice between PVC and PU for projects with environmental requirements, though silicone leather goes further on most sustainability measures.

Cost position. Mid to high. Standard PU faux leather is broadly comparable to PVC. High-specification PU microfibre products are premium priced.

Best for: Luxury residential specification where genuine leather handle is desired without the maintenance requirements. Boutique hotel seating where tactile quality is a client priority. Office seating where extended contact comfort matters. Environments where PVC sustainability concerns are commercially relevant.

Not recommended for: High-humidity environments where hydrolysis degradation is a risk. Environments requiring regular disinfectant cleaning. Heavy contract seating where maximum abrasion resistance is the priority. Marine exterior use.

Silicone Leather

Silicone leather is a coated fabric where the coating is a silicone resin rather than a PVC or PU polymer. It is the newest of the three types in commercial interior use and commands a significant price premium. Its performance profile is distinctive enough to make it the correct specification in a specific set of applications.

Durability. Silicone leather achieves high abrasion resistance — 100,000 Martindale rubs and above — and is resistant to UV degradation, extreme temperatures, and chemical exposure in ways that PVC and PU cannot match. The silicone polymer does not break down under UV light, maintains flexibility at low temperatures where PVC may crack, and remains stable at high temperatures. This makes it the correct specification for outdoor and semi-outdoor use, and for environments with extreme temperature or UV exposure.

Fire rating. Silicone is inherently flame resistant. The polymer structure does not require plasticisers or fire-retardant additives to achieve fire resistance. This inherent property survives cleaning and does not degrade over the life of the fabric. For applications where fire certification must survive aggressive cleaning regimes — healthcare, public transport, marine interiors — the inherent nature of silicone’s fire resistance is a significant specification advantage.

Cleaning and chemical resistance. Silicone leather has the best chemical resistance of the three types. Its low surface tension makes it inherently stain-resistant and resistant to oils, solvents, disinfectants, and most common cleaning agents. Hospital-grade disinfectants, bleach solutions, and alcohol-based cleaners that would degrade PU and may affect certain PVC formulations over time can be used on silicone leather without surface damage.

Light fastness. Silicone leather offers the best UV resistance of the three types. The polymer structure does not degrade under UV exposure in the way that PVC and PU can over time. Silicone leather is the correct specification for outdoor seating, terraces, poolside furniture, and marine exterior cushions exposed to sustained sunlight.

Handle and breathability. High-quality silicone leather has a distinctive soft, smooth handle that is different from both PVC and PU. It does not have the rigidity or warmth-retention of PVC, and its surface does not develop the micro-cracking associated with ageing PU. The handle is a matter of preference but it does not closely approximate genuine leather in the way that high-grade PU can.

Environmental profile. Silicone is derived from silica, a naturally occurring mineral. The manufacturing process uses no solvents, produces low VOC emissions, and no dioxins or phthalates. Silicone does not break down into microplastics. It can be downcycled at end of life. Silicone leather is the most environmentally responsible of the three types by most measures, and its environmental credentials are defensible to a degree that PVC and standard PU are not.

Cost position. High. Silicone leather commands a significant premium over PVC and PU. For most standard contract applications where PVC would perform adequately, the premium is not justified by the performance advantage. Where the specific properties of silicone — UV stability, temperature range, chemical resistance, inherent flame resistance — are genuinely required, the cost is appropriate.

Best for: Outdoor and semi-outdoor seating exposed to UV and weather. Marine interior seating on commercial and charter vessels where IMO certification is required and inherent flame resistance is an advantage. Healthcare environments requiring aggressive chemical cleaning with inherent fire resistance. High-end residential projects where sustainability credentials are a client requirement.

Not recommended for: Standard contract interiors where PVC delivers equivalent performance at lower cost. Any project where budget is a primary constraint.

Comparison at a Glance

Martindale rub count: PVC high-specification 100,000+; PU standard 30,000 to 80,000, PU microfibre 100,000+; silicone 100,000+.

Fire certification: PVC can achieve Crib 5 inherently; PU typically requires FR additive or backcoating; silicone is inherently flame resistant.

Cleaning compatibility: PVC excellent with most agents; PU good with mild products, caution with solvents; silicone excellent with all agents including hospital-grade disinfectants.

UV resistance: PVC good, grade 6+; PU moderate, grade 5 to 6; silicone excellent, stable under extended UV exposure.

Breathability: PVC low; PU moderate; silicone moderate.

Environmental profile: PVC highest impact, chlorine-based; PU moderate, better than PVC; silicone lowest impact, no solvents or plasticisers.

Cost relative to performance: PVC best value for standard contract use; PU best value where handle and breathability matter; silicone justified where its specific properties are genuinely required.

Kothea Faux Leather

Kothea’s Faux Leather 3 is a high-specification PVC faux leather achieving in excess of 100,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating. It is 140cm wide, available in over 20 colourways, and carries a wipe-clean surface compatible with water-based hotel and contract cleaning products. It is the correct specification for hotel restaurant and bar seating, headboards, wall panelling, and high-traffic contract upholstery where maximum durability, fire certification, and cleaning compatibility are the primary requirements.

For hotel and hospitality specification guidance including Martindale thresholds by room type, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For marine projects requiring IMO certification, see our IMO marine fire standards guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between PVC and PU faux leather?

PVC faux leather uses a polyvinyl chloride coating and has the highest abrasion resistance, best chemical resistance, and most readily achievable Crib 5 fire rating of any faux leather type. PU faux leather uses a polyurethane coating and is softer, more breathable, and more environmentally responsible than PVC, but typically achieves lower abrasion resistance at equivalent price points and requires FR treatment to achieve Crib 5. PVC is the standard choice for heavy contract use. PU is preferred where tactile quality and breathability matter more than maximum durability.

What is silicone leather and when should I specify it?

Silicone leather is a coated fabric where the surface coating is silicone resin rather than PVC or PU. It is inherently flame resistant, UV stable, resistant to extreme temperatures, and compatible with hospital-grade cleaning agents. It commands a significant price premium over PVC and PU and is the correct specification for outdoor and semi-outdoor seating, marine interiors, healthcare environments requiring aggressive chemical cleaning, and high-end projects where environmental sustainability is a client requirement. For most standard contract interiors, PVC delivers equivalent or superior performance at lower cost.

Which faux leather is most durable for hotel use?

High-specification PVC faux leather is the most durable and most practically suited to hotel use. It achieves 100,000+ Martindale rubs, can be Crib 5 certified, and is compatible with the water-based and alkaline cleaning products used in hotel housekeeping. PU leather at equivalent price points achieves lower abrasion resistance and is less resistant to the cleaning chemicals used in hotel environments. For hotel restaurant seating, bar stools, and headboards, PVC is the default specification. See our hotel fabric specification guide for Martindale thresholds by room type.

Is PVC faux leather suitable for marine use?

PVC faux leather is suitable for marine use subject to fire certification. For private yachts, a Crib 5 certificate is typically sufficient. For commercial charter vessels under the MCA Large Commercial Yacht Code, the fabric must hold an IMO FTP Code Part 8 certificate obtained from an IMO-approved laboratory. A Crib 5 certificate does not substitute for an IMO Part 8 certificate on commercial vessels. PVC is well suited to marine environments in terms of moisture resistance, UV stability, and cleaning compatibility. Silicone leather offers superior UV and temperature performance for exterior marine applications. See our IMO marine fire standards guide for full detail.

Does faux leather fade in sunlight?

PVC faux leather typically achieves ISO 105-B02 grade 6 or above and is suitable for most residential and contract environments including south-facing rooms. PU achieves grade 5 to 6 and should be confirmed for high-light environments. Silicone leather is the most UV stable of the three types and is the correct specification for outdoor or sustained direct-sunlight applications. For full guidance on light fastness grades and room orientation, see our light fastness guide.

Is PU leather better than PVC for sustainability?

PU is more environmentally responsible than PVC in manufacture and disposal. PVC production uses chlorine-based chemistry that produces dioxin compounds. PU does not contain chlorine and some PU products use water-based systems that further reduce environmental impact. Silicone leather has the best environmental profile of the three types — it is derived from silica, uses no solvents in manufacture, produces no dioxins or phthalates, and does not break down into microplastics. For projects where environmental credentials are a priority, PU offers a better position than PVC, and silicone leather offers the most defensible environmental specification.

For healthcare fabric specification including silicone leather and healthcare-grade PVC, see our healthcare fabric guide. For when to use faux leather instead of velvet, see our when not to use velvet guide.

For faux leather specification in outdoor terraces and semi-outdoor hospitality environments, see our outdoor terrace fabric specification guide.

For Building Safety Act 2022 documentation requirements for fabric in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act guide.

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Hotel Fabric Specification Guide: Martindale, Crib 5, Cleaning and Dye Lots

Anouska Hempel Design

How to Specify Fabric for Hotel and Hospitality Projects: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers

Minimum Martindale: 40,000 rubs (bedroom) / 60,000 rubs (restaurant and bar) / 80,000–100,000 rubs (lobby)
Fire standard: BS 7176 Medium Hazard — not just Crib 5
Cleaning code: W or WS preferred — S-coded fabrics are often incompatible with hotel housekeeping
Download: Hotel fabric specification checklist (PDF)

Hotel fabric specification is categorically different from residential work. The same fabric that performs well in a client’s drawing room will fail visibly within months in a hotel bedroom. The difference is not only the volume of use but the nature of that use: guests treat hotel furniture differently from their own, housekeeping applies chemicals that residential cleaning never encounters, and the fire authority expects documentation that a residential project never requires. This guide covers every dimension of hotel fabric specification, from Martindale thresholds by room type to dye lot consistency across multi-phase projects.

For the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale, fabric care symbols and cleaning codes, and velvet types compared.

Understand the Project Before Specifying Any Fabric

Before selecting a fabric, confirm the following with the client or project manager. The answers determine every specification decision that follows.

Brand tier and refurbishment cycle. A budget hotel expecting to refurbish every five years has different durability requirements from a five-star property projecting a ten-year lifecycle. The longer the expected service life, the higher the Martindale threshold should be.

Occupancy pattern. A hotel running at 90% year-round occupancy subjects its furniture to dramatically more use than a seasonal resort. A 24-hour city-centre hotel has different requirements from a boutique property with a primarily weekend leisure clientele.

Housekeeping regime. Ask what cleaning products are used on upholstered surfaces. Many hotels use alkaline-based multi-purpose cleaners across all surfaces. These are effective at removing soiling but can degrade the back-coating on topically treated fabrics over time. If the housekeeping contractor uses a standard alkaline spray on upholstered chairs, specify fabrics with a W or WS cleaning code, or confirm that the specific fabric survives the cleaning agent in use. Solvent-coded fabrics coded S require specialist in-situ cleaning and are not compatible with standard hotel housekeeping routines unless a specialist cleaning contract is in place.

Fire risk assessment category. Under the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005, the responsible person for the building must carry out a fire risk assessment and procure furnishings accordingly. For most hotel environments the relevant standard is BS 7176 Medium Hazard. Confirm the specific hazard category with the fire officer or the client’s fire safety consultant before specifying.

Project phasing. A hotel refurbished in phases over two to three years will need fabric from the same dye lot across phases, or a supplier able to replicate the colourway in future batches. This is the most frequently overlooked risk in large hotel projects and the one most likely to create a visible inconsistency across rooms completed at different times.

Martindale Thresholds by Room Type

No single Martindale figure applies across an entire hotel. Different areas have different use intensities and the fabric specification should reflect this. These thresholds are industry guidelines rather than formal standards and should be adjusted based on fibre type, construction, and project conditions. The following figures represent the minimum acceptable for each area in a standard UK hotel. For premium properties with longer refurbishment cycles, specify 20,000 to 30,000 rubs above each figure.

Hotel bedroom: desk chair, occasional chair, chaise. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs. Guest bedrooms receive regular but not continuous use. A single bedroom chair may be sat in by two guests per night at occupancy, which is low by contract standards but higher than a comparable chair in a private home. 40,000 rubs provides adequate headroom for a five-year refurbishment cycle at typical occupancy.

Hotel bedroom: headboard. Minimum 25,000 Martindale rubs. Headboards are subject to contact rather than seated abrasion. Hair products, moisturisers, and leaning are the primary wear factors. A fabric with good abrasion resistance at 25,000 rubs and a stain-resistant finish is appropriate for most hotel bedroom headboards. For boutique hotels expecting a longer first-refurbishment interval, specify 40,000 rubs. See the headboard section below for fire rating considerations specific to this application.

Restaurant and dining seating. Minimum 60,000 Martindale rubs. Restaurant seating in a busy hotel receives sustained use from breakfast through dinner service, often with multiple seatings per day. Food and beverage spills are frequent. The fabric must combine high abrasion resistance with good stain resistance and a cleaning code compatible with damp wiping between services. High-performance faux leather, often tested to 100,000 or more Martindale rubs or equivalent methods, is one of the most practical specifications for high-volume restaurant seating. For properties where aesthetics require a woven fabric, specify a minimum of 60,000 rubs with a stain-resistant finish.

Bar and lounge seating. Minimum 60,000 Martindale rubs. Bar seating receives the most demanding use of any upholstered surface in a hotel. Guests sit for extended periods, often in close-fitting clothing that generates sustained friction, and spills involving alcoholic beverages are common. For bar stools and high-seat bar chairs where the seating surface is under direct and continuous pressure, 80,000 rubs is a more defensible specification. Alcohol can also degrade certain topical fabric finishes, which is a reason to favour inherently resistant fabrics or faux leather in bar applications.

Hotel lobby seating. Minimum 60,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs depending on the lobby’s function. A lobby used primarily as a transit space with limited seating use can be specified at 60,000 rubs. A lobby that doubles as a working space, café, or meeting point and receives continuous use throughout the day requires 80,000 to 100,000 rubs. Lobby furniture is also highly visible and first-impressions critical, which means early visible wear is commercially significant regardless of actual structural failure.

Meeting room and event space seating. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs. Meeting room chairs receive intense but intermittent use. A conference chair may be occupied for six to eight hours during a full-day event and then unused for days. 40,000 rubs is sufficient for most meeting room applications. For chairs used in training rooms or learning environments with continuous daily occupation, specify 60,000 rubs.

Spa and wellness seating. Minimum 40,000 Martindale rubs, with additional consideration of moisture and skincare product resistance. Guests using spa facilities arrive in robes or swimwear, and skincare products including oils and lotions come into contact with seating surfaces. Specify fabrics whose cleaning code permits water-based cleaning and confirm compatibility with the specific products used in the spa. Faux leather is often the most practical choice for spa seating.

Fire Rating for Hotel Environments

The fire standard for most UK hotel upholstery is BS 7176 Medium Hazard. This standard incorporates BS 5852 Crib 5 and additionally requires the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak test to simulate cleaning. The specification document must state the specific foam used in the test, as BS 7176 is a composite test of fabric and filling combined, not of the fabric alone.

In practice, many fabrics that pass BS 5852 Crib 5 can be used to achieve BS 7176 Medium Hazard when combined with the appropriate filling, but BS 7176 is a broader composite standard with additional requirements including cigarette, match, and water-soak testing. The difference is also in the documentation: a BS 7176 certificate names the end-use environment and the foam specification, making it a more defensible document for a contract project. For hotel upholstery, specify BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 and request the full certificate naming the foam used in the test. Always request full test certificates rather than relying on generic compliance statements.

For mohair velvet that achieves a Crib 5 pass without topical treatment, confirm that the specific range has been independently tested to BS 5852 and request the test certificate. Where applicable, the certificate should also demonstrate compliance to BS 7176 Medium Hazard or indicate the foam configuration under which the test was conducted.

For curtains in hotel bedrooms and public areas, the applicable standard is BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, which is a separate standard from BS 5852 and governs vertically hanging fabrics. The two standards are not interchangeable. A Crib 5 certificate for an upholstery fabric does not qualify the same fabric for use as a contract curtain.

For full detail on the Crib 5 test, inherent versus topical certification, and BS 7176 hazard categories, see our complete guide to BS 5852 Crib 5.

The Hotel Cleaning Regime and What It Means for Fabric Specification

The housekeeping regime is the single most underspecified variable in hotel fabric selection. Fabrics are routinely tested in laboratory conditions, but hotel cleaning products introduce chemical stresses that standard abrasion tests do not replicate.

Standard hotel housekeeping uses multi-purpose alkaline cleaners for daily surface cleaning across guest rooms and public areas. These products, typically in the pH 8 to 11 range, are effective against the greases, body oils, and food residues that accumulate on upholstered surfaces. However, alkaline cleaners can progressively reduce the effectiveness of some topical FR treatments and may cause surface dulling or discolouration on certain pile fabrics. Cleaning codes indicate suitable cleaning methods but do not guarantee resistance to specific commercial cleaning chemicals.

The practical consequence for specification is as follows. A fabric with a topical Crib 5 treatment and a solvent-only cleaning code (S) is often incompatible with standard hotel housekeeping unless a specialist cleaning regime is in place. Cleaning codes indicate suitable methods but do not guarantee resistance to specific commercial cleaning chemicals. Prefer fabrics suitable for water-based cleaning (W or WS), or confirm compatibility with the actual cleaning products used by the hotel’s housekeeping contractor before finalising the specification. In most hotel projects, the simpler solution is to specify fabrics whose FR certification does not depend on topical treatment, or to select faux leather or other wipe-clean surfaces for high-contact areas.

Deep cleaning of upholstered furniture in hotels typically occurs two to four times per year, using specialist upholstery cleaning services. At this frequency, cumulative chemical exposure is significant over the course of a five or ten-year refurbishment cycle. When specifying a fabric for a long-lifecycle hotel project, ask the supplier to confirm the fabric’s resistance to the specific cleaning agents the hotel uses, and request confirmation in writing before finalising the specification.

Light Fastness in Hotel Environments

Hotel bedrooms present a wide range of light exposure conditions. A north-facing bedroom on the fourth floor of an urban hotel receives very little natural light. A south-facing suite on a high floor with full-height glazing may receive intense direct sunlight for much of the day. The same fabric specified throughout a hotel will perform very differently in these two environments.

For hotel bedrooms with standard glazing and mixed orientations, specify grade 5 where possible for upholstery fabrics and curtains. For south-facing bedrooms, suites with large glazed areas, and hotel lobbies with skylights, specify grade 6 or above. For glazed atriums and hotel exteriors or terraces, specify grade 7 to 8 and use specialist outdoor-rated fabrics.

Modern hotel glazing frequently incorporates low-e coating or UV-filtering film, which reduces UV transmission and can extend the effective service life of a fabric beyond what the grade alone would suggest. If the project specification includes high-performance glazing, factor this into the light fastness requirement but do not reduce the grade below 5 on that basis. Glazing specifications can change during a refurbishment and fabrics need to perform adequately under worst-case light conditions.

For full guidance on light fastness grades and what they mean by room orientation, see our guide to light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.

Dye Lot Consistency Across Large Projects

A hotel project may specify the same fabric across 200 bedrooms, three dining areas, and a lobby, with installation spread over two to three years across multiple phases. Unless dye lot consistency is managed proactively, the rooms completed in phase one will have a subtly different colour from those completed in phase three.

Dye lot variation is a normal property of any dyed fabric. Even the same colourway produced by the same mill in the same month can show variation between rolls that is invisible side by side but visible when comparing a freshly installed chair with one installed eighteen months earlier. In a hotel where guests move between rooms, this variation is commercially significant.

The practical approach is as follows. At the point of specification, confirm with the supplier the minimum quantity that can be reserved from a single dye lot for the full project. For very large projects, request that the supplier weave the full quantity from the same yarn batch and production run where possible. Where this is not possible, establish the supplier’s tolerance standards for dye lot variation and ensure that comparison samples are retained from the first delivery for matching against subsequent deliveries.

For phased projects where new fabric cannot be reserved in advance, specify the colourway and confirm with the supplier that the range will remain in production for the duration of the project. Discontinued colourways mid-project are the most common cause of unresolvable dye lot inconsistency in hotel refurbishments.

Headboards

Hotel bedroom headboards present a specific specification challenge. The fire standard applicable to headboards is less universally agreed than for seating. BS 5852 is explicitly a test for upholstered seating. Whether a headboard, as a wall-mounted or freestanding fixed element, falls under the same seating standard or under a separate wall-covering or surface-finishing standard depends on how it is constructed and installed.

A headboard that is freestanding or attached to the bed frame and upholstered in the same way as a sofa is often treated as upholstered furniture and specified to BS 5852 Crib 5. A headboard that is fixed to the wall and forms part of the wall surface may be treated as a surface finish and be subject to BS 476 Part 7 or the surface spread of flame classification relevant to that building. Confirm with the fire officer and the hotel’s fire safety consultant which standard applies to the headboard construction specified in the project.

For Martindale specification of headboard fabric, 25,000 rubs is adequate for most hotel bedroom applications. The primary wear on a headboard is contact from hair, hair products, and leaning, rather than the sustained abrasion of seated upholstery. A stain-resistant finish is more valuable on a headboard than an elevated rub count.

Curtains in Hotel Bedrooms and Public Areas

Contract curtain fabrics in hotel bedrooms must meet BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. This is a separate standard from the upholstery fire standards and governs vertically hanging fabrics. The test involves a vertical flame applied to the hanging fabric and measures flame spread and post-flame smouldering. Type B is the standard for most hotel applications. Type C applies to NHS and healthcare environments with more frequent laundering requirements.

Most decorative curtain fabrics require topical treatment to meet BS 5867 Part 2 Type B. Some inherently fire-resistant fabrics, including certain Trevira CS constructions, meet the standard without treatment. The treatment process for curtains involves impregnation or dipping rather than back-coating, and affects different fabric types differently. Sheer and lightweight fabrics are particularly susceptible to visible changes after treatment. Confirm the suitability of the specific fabric for curtain FR treatment with the supplier before specifying.

For hotel bedrooms with south or west-facing windows, curtain light fastness requires the same attention as upholstery. A curtain fabric that faces direct afternoon sun will fade at the fold lines before the body of the fabric shows colour change, creating an irregular striped effect that is difficult to remedy without full replacement. Specify grade 6 or above for curtain fabrics in hotel bedrooms with significant sun exposure.

Kothea Fabrics for Hotel Specification

Mohair velvet from Kothea achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 across the active mohair ranges and carries independently certified Crib 5 passes achieved without topical treatment on the ranges tested. The combination of high durability and FR certification without treatment makes mohair velvet suitable for hotel bedroom seating, lobby furniture, restaurant seating at the appropriate rub count, and bar seating at the higher end of the range.

Faux Leather 3 from Kothea achieves in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating and a wipe-clean surface. Its cleaning code is compatible with water-based hotel housekeeping products. It is suitable for restaurant seating, bar seating, spa seating, headboards, and wall panelling in hotel environments where a wipe-clean surface is required. The 140 cm width and 20-plus colourways make it practical across multiple areas within a single project.

Recline Linen from Kothea achieves 80,000 Martindale rubs and is suitable for hotel bedroom occasional chairs and low-use contract seating where a natural linen aesthetic is specified. Fire treatment is required for contract use.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, cleaning codes, and light fastness grades, see the mohair velvet upholstery page, the faux leather upholstery page, and the upholstery linen page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Martindale rub count do I need for hotel upholstery?

For hotel bedroom chairs and occasional seating, specify a minimum of 40,000 Martindale rubs. For restaurant and bar seating, specify a minimum of 60,000 rubs, with 80,000 rubs preferred for high-volume bar seating. For hotel lobby seating in continuous use throughout the day, specify 80,000 to 100,000 rubs. For hotel bedroom headboards, 25,000 rubs is the minimum with a stain-resistant finish. These figures are minimums for a standard five-year refurbishment cycle. For premium properties with a ten-year cycle, add 20,000 to 30,000 rubs to each threshold. For full guidance on the Martindale rub test and how rub counts translate to classification, see our Martindale rub test guide.

What fire standard applies to hotel upholstery in the UK?

For most UK hotel environments, the applicable standard is BS 7176 Medium Hazard, which incorporates BS 5852 Crib 5 plus the cigarette and match tests and a water-soak stage. The certificate must document the specific foam used in the test, as BS 7176 is a composite test of fabric and filling together. Specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 provides a more complete and defensible specification for contract hotel projects. Confirm the specific hazard category with the fire officer for the project. For curtains in hotel bedrooms, the applicable standard is BS 5867 Part 2 Type B, which is a separate standard from BS 5852.

Can velvet be used in hotel bedrooms?

Yes. Mohair velvet with a Martindale rub count of 80,000 or above and an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment is suitable for hotel bedroom seating. The practical limitation is the cleaning code. Most mohair velvet is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry cleaning only, which is not compatible with standard hotel housekeeping routines that use water-based or alkaline cleaners. If the hotel’s housekeeping contractor applies water-based products to upholstered surfaces as routine, a fabric coded W or WS should be specified instead, or a specialist cleaning contract for velvet surfaces must be established in advance.

What is the difference between BS 5852 Crib 5 and BS 7176 for hotel furniture?

BS 5852 Crib 5 is the test method for ignition source 5. BS 7176 is the specification standard for non-domestic upholstered seating that references BS 5852 and additionally requires the cigarette and match stages, the water-soak procedure, and documentation of the specific end-use environment and foam configuration. Similar FR approaches are often used to meet both standards, but BS 7176 certification depends on the full upholstery system including the filling, not the fabric alone. A BS 7176 Medium Hazard certificate is the correct standard to specify for most UK hospitality environments.

How do I manage dye lot consistency on a phased hotel project?

Reserve the full project quantity from a single dye lot at the point of specification, or request that the supplier weave the full quantity from the same yarn batch in a single production run. For projects where this is not possible, retain comparison samples from the first delivery and establish the supplier’s tolerance standards for dye lot variation. For phased projects with undetermined future phases, confirm that the colourway will remain in production for the duration of the project. Discontinued colourways mid-project are the most common source of unresolvable dye lot inconsistency in hotel refurbishments.

Is faux leather suitable for hotel restaurant seating?

Yes. Faux leather is one of the most practical fabrics for hotel restaurant seating. A high-specification PVC faux leather achieving in excess of 200,000 Martindale rubs with a Crib 5 fire rating and a wipe-clean surface is compatible with the cleaning regimes used between restaurant services, resists food and beverage spills, and requires no specialist cleaning contract. The cleaning code of W or WS makes it straightforward for housekeeping staff to maintain. The aesthetic limitation is that faux leather does not replicate the warmth and texture of natural upholstery fabrics, which may not suit the positioning of certain hotel restaurants.

What light fastness grade do I need for hotel bedroom curtains?

For hotel bedroom curtains in rooms with mixed orientations, specify a minimum of ISO 105-B02 grade 5. For south or west-facing bedrooms, suites with large glazed areas, or any bedroom where afternoon sun falls directly on the curtain face, specify grade 6 or above. Curtain fabrics are particularly vulnerable to fading at fold lines, which creates an irregular striped effect before the body of the fabric shows colour change. This is commercially significant in a hotel where curtains are highly visible to guests. For full guidance on light fastness grades and room orientation, see our light fastness guide.

Does hotel housekeeping damage upholstery fabric?

Standard hotel housekeeping cleaning products, typically alkaline-based multi-purpose cleaners, can degrade topical FR treatments on upholstery fabrics over time and may cause surface dulling on certain pile fabrics if applied incorrectly. The risk is greatest with fabrics that have a solvent-only cleaning code (S), as water-based products applied by housekeeping staff will eventually compromise both the fabric surface and any chemical FR coating. To avoid this, specify fabrics with a W or WS cleaning code for hotel bedroom and public area upholstery, or ensure that a specialist cleaning contract is in place for any S-coded fabric specified in the project.

Download the Hotel Fabric Specification Checklist (PDF) — a printable one-page reference covering Martindale thresholds by room type, fire compliance, cleaning compatibility, dye lot strategy, and documentation sign-off.

For hotel and hospitality fabric specification, see our hotel fabric specification guide.

For mohair velvet thermal and moisture management properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide. For healthcare fabric specification, see our healthcare fabric guide. For fabric decisions at each RIBA Plan of Work stage, see our RIBA Plan of Work fabric guide.

For the Building Safety Act 2022 and fabric documentation requirements in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act and fabric specification guide.

For fabric specification for hotel terraces and semi-outdoor hospitality spaces, see our outdoor terrace fabric specification guide.

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Velvet Types Compared: Mohair, Cotton, Silk, Linen and Synthetic

Velvet Types Compared: A Complete Specifier’s Guide for Interior Designers and Architects

  • Most durable natural velvet: Mohair, 80,000 to 100,000 Martindale rubs
  • Contract fire standard: BS 5852 Crib 5, inherent in correctly certified mohair; topical treatment required for cotton, linen, and silk
  • Cleaning code: S (solvent only) for most natural velvets; W or WS for synthetic
  • Decorative use only: Silk velvet and cashmere velvet, not suitable for upholstery in regular use

Velvet is a construction method, not a fibre. A velvet fabric is produced by weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously with threads connecting them, then cutting those threads to create an upstanding pile. That pile can be made from almost any fibre, and the fibre is the primary determinant of specification performance, durability, fire rating, cleaning requirements, light fastness, and cost, alongside construction, pile density, and backing. Choosing between velvet types on aesthetic grounds alone is the most common specification error in interior design.

This guide compares the principal velvet types available to specifiers in the UK market across every dimension relevant to a professional specification. For background on the testing standards referenced throughout this guide, see our posts on the Martindale rub test, BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification, and light fastness and the Blue Wool Scale.

How Velvet Is Made

Understanding the construction helps explain why fibre choice matters so much in velvet. In warp pile velvet, the pile yarns run along the length of the fabric and are woven over wires or rods. When the rods are withdrawn and the loops cut, a cut pile is formed. In double-cloth velvet, two fabrics are woven face to face simultaneously, joined by pile threads that are then cut to separate them and create pile on both faces. The resulting fabric has a distinct face and back, with the pile standing perpendicular to the base cloth.

The density and height of the pile, the twist of the pile yarn, and the weight and construction of the base cloth all affect performance. The most fundamental variable is the fibre from which the pile is made.

Mohair Velvet

Fibre origin: Hair of the Angora goat, primarily from South Africa and Turkey. South Africa produces more than half of the world’s mohair supply and is the global benchmark for quality. A long-staple, smooth, lustrous fibre with exceptional tensile strength.

Martindale rub count: 80,000 to 100,000 and above, depending on construction and pile density. Mohair velvet achieves the highest rub counts of any natural-fibre velvet and is the most reliably suitable natural-fibre velvet for heavy contract use. Kothea’s mohair velvet ranges are independently tested and achieve between 80,000 and 100,000 Martindale rubs across the active collections.

Fire rating: Mohair fibre, like wool, has natural flame-resistant properties arising from its high protein content. A correctly woven and constructed mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not universal across all mohair velvets and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. Where this is confirmed, the certification does not depend on chemical coatings, is unaffected by cleaning, and does not alter the handle or appearance of the fabric.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-cleaning solvent only. Water applied to mohair velvet can cause watermarks and pile matting. For minor fresh stains, a barely dampened lint-free cloth worked in the direction of the pile is acceptable as a first response.

Light fastness: ISO 105-B02 grade 4 to 5 in light colourways and grade 5 to 6 in dark colourways. Suitable for most residential environments. For south-facing rooms, specify dark colourways or confirm the specific colourway grade with the supplier.

Pile appearance: High lustre with a characteristic directional sheen. The pile reflects light differently depending on viewing angle and pile direction, producing the depth of colour associated with luxury upholstery velvet.

Suitable applications: Heavy contract upholstery including hotel seating, restaurant banquettes, theatre and hospitality seating, residential sofas and chairs, headboards, cushions, and curtains.

Not recommended for: High-light environments without confirming the colourway grade. Outdoor or semi-outdoor use. Applications requiring machine washing.

Cost position: Premium.

Cotton Velvet

Fibre origin: Cotton plant. A short-staple natural cellulose fibre, widely grown and relatively inexpensive.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 60,000 depending on construction, pile density, and backing. Cotton velvet varies enormously in quality. A well-constructed heavyweight cotton velvet can achieve sufficient durability for general domestic and light contract use. A thin, loosely woven cotton velvet intended for curtains or cushions may achieve 10,000 rubs or fewer. Always confirm the specific Martindale figure for the range you are specifying.

Fire rating: Topical treatment required. Cotton fibre does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently. A back-coating of flame-retardant chemicals must be applied before use in contract environments. See our complete guide to Crib 5 for detail on inherent versus topical certification. For the risk of dye colour change after FR treatment, see our dye types and FR treatment guide.

Cleaning code: S or WS depending on the specific range. Cotton velvet treated with a back-coating for Crib 5 may require solvent-only cleaning to avoid degrading the treatment.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 typically with standard reactive dyes.

Pile appearance: Matte to semi-matte. Cotton pile lacks the lustre of mohair and does not produce the same directional sheen.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, cushions, curtains, and headboards.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use without FR treatment and independent testing. High-humidity environments.

Cost position: Mid-range. Cotton velvet is typically less expensive than mohair at equivalent pile weights but requires the additional cost of FR treatment for contract use.

Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Cocoon of the silkworm Bombyx mori. Silk is a continuous filament natural protein fibre of exceptional fineness and lustre.

Martindale rub count: Below 15,000 in most cases. Natural silk is the weakest of the natural-fibre velvets in abrasion terms. Silk velvet is decorative fabric, not upholstery fabric in the contract sense of the word.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is possible for domestic standards but silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a full Crib 5 pass for contract use.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only. Silk is highly water-sensitive.

Light fastness: Grade 2 to 4 typically. Silk velvet should not be used in rooms with significant natural light exposure. See our light fastness guide for full context.

Pile appearance: The most lustrous of all velvet pile types.

Suitable applications: Decorative cushions, occasional chairs in low-use residential rooms, curtains in low-light environments, bed throws.

Not recommended for: Any contract application. South-facing rooms.

Cost position: High to very high.

Linen Velvet

Fibre origin: Flax plant. Linen is a bast fibre extracted from the stalk of the flax plant.

Martindale rub count: 15,000 to 25,000 typically. Kothea’s Linen Velvet achieves 20,000 Martindale rubs with a SI 1324 cigarette test pass.

Fire rating: Not inherently Crib 5. For contract use, FR treatment or a Schedule 3 interliner is required.

Cleaning code: S or WS. Confirm on the data sheet.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard reactive dyes.

Pile appearance: Matte. Linen velvet has a distinctly textural, natural surface character.

Suitable applications: Domestic upholstery, curtains, cushions, decorative headboards.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use. High-humidity environments.

Cost position: Mid-range.

Cashmere and Cashmere-Silk Velvet

Fibre origin: Undercoat of the Himalayan Cashmere goat.

Martindale rub count: Low. Cashmere fibre is too fine and too short-staple to produce velvet with meaningful abrasion resistance for upholstery use. Kothea’s Cashmere Silk Velvet is specified for curtains only.

Fire rating: Topical treatment is technically possible but the handle and appearance of cashmere velvet are typically altered by the coating process.

Cleaning code: S. Dry-clean only.

Light fastness: Moderate. Cashmere is a protein fibre and susceptible to UV degradation.

Pile appearance: Extraordinarily soft handle with a subtle, fine lustre.

Suitable applications: Curtains, decorative cushions, bed throws, accent pieces in low-use residential rooms.

Not recommended for: Upholstery of any kind in regular use. Contract environments.

Cost position: Very high.

Synthetic Velvet: Trevira CS and Polyester

Fibre origin: Petrochemical derivatives. Trevira CS is a branded inherently fire-retardant polyester fibre manufactured in Germany.

Martindale rub count: High. Synthetic velvet typically achieves 50,000 to 150,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction.

Fire rating: Trevira CS is inherently flame-retardant. The flame retardancy is a permanent property of the polyester polymer and survives cleaning.

Cleaning code: W or WS typically.

Light fastness: Grade 6 to 7 typically. Solution-dyed synthetic velvet achieves the highest light fastness ratings available in velvet form.

Pile appearance: Varies considerably by construction.

Suitable applications: Contract upholstery where fire certification and durability are the primary requirements. Healthcare environments. Transport seating.

Not recommended for: Ultra-luxury residential briefs where natural fibre handle and appearance are client requirements.

Cost position: Lower to mid-range.

Alpaca Velvet

Fibre origin: Fleece of the South American alpaca.

Martindale rub count: 20,000 to 40,000 typically, depending on construction.

Fire rating: Alpaca is a natural protein fibre with moderate inherent fire resistance, but cannot be assumed to pass BS 5852 Crib 5 without specific independent testing. Request the test certificate from the supplier.

Cleaning code: S typically.

Light fastness: Grade 4 to 5 with standard acid dyes.

Pile appearance: Soft and slightly matte with a gentle natural lustre.

Suitable applications: Luxury residential upholstery, cushions, and occasional seating.

Not recommended for: Heavy contract use.

Cost position: High.

Specification Summary by Application

For heavy contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, bars, and hospitality environments, mohair velvet with an independently certified Crib 5 pass achieved without topical treatment, and a rub count of 80,000 or above, is the most reliable natural-fibre specification. Synthetic Trevira CS velvet is the alternative where budget or client preference for machine-cleanable fabric applies.

For residential upholstery in moderate-use rooms, cotton velvet at 25,000 to 40,000 Martindale rubs is a sound mid-range specification. Linen velvet at 20,000 rubs suits briefs requiring a natural textural aesthetic.

For decorative applications, cushions, and occasional chairs in low-use rooms, silk velvet, cashmere velvet, or alpaca velvet are appropriate where budget allows and the client accepts the care requirements.

For south-facing rooms or high-light environments, confirm the specific ISO 105-B02 grade before specifying any velvet. Mohair in dark colourways, synthetic velvet, and solution-dyed fabrics offer the most reliable light fastness performance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most durable velvet for contract upholstery?

Mohair velvet is the most durable natural-fibre velvet for contract upholstery, achieving Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 depending on construction. It also carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 fire rating without topical treatment, making it the only natural-fibre velvet that meets both the durability and fire certification requirements of most UK contract environments without additional cost or treatment. High-specification synthetic velvet using Trevira CS fibre can achieve comparable or higher rub counts and also carries inherent fire resistance, at a lower cost but with a different aesthetic.

What is the difference between mohair velvet and cotton velvet?

Mohair velvet is made from the hair of the Angora goat and achieves Martindale rub counts of 80,000 to 100,000 with an inherent Crib 5 fire rating. Cotton velvet is made from cotton fibre and typically achieves 20,000 to 60,000 Martindale rubs depending on construction, with no inherent Crib 5 rating. Cotton velvet requires topical FR treatment for contract use. Mohair velvet has a characteristic directional sheen and depth of colour that cotton velvet does not replicate.

Can silk velvet be used for upholstery?

Silk velvet is not suitable for upholstery in regular use. It typically achieves fewer than 15,000 Martindale rubs, which places it in the decorative category unsuitable for seating. Silk is also highly photosensitive, with a light fastness grade of 2 to 4, meaning it will fade in rooms with natural light exposure. Silk velvet cannot reliably achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification for contract use.

Does mohair velvet have an inherent Crib 5 fire rating?

Mohair fibre has natural flame-resistant properties and a correctly woven mohair velvet can achieve a BS 5852 Crib 5 pass without topical chemical treatment, depending on construction and backing. This is not guaranteed for all mohair velvets by fibre type alone and must be confirmed by an independent test certificate for the specific range. Kothea’s active mohair velvet ranges carry independently certified Crib 5 passes without topical treatment. This distinguishes correctly certified mohair velvet from cotton, linen, and silk velvets, all of which require topical treatment to achieve Crib 5.

What velvet is best for south-facing rooms?

For south-facing rooms, specify velvet with an ISO 105-B02 light fastness grade of at least 6. Mohair velvet in dark colourways achieves grade 5 to 6. Synthetic velvet and solution-dyed fabrics typically achieve grade 6 to 7. Silk velvet and cashmere velvet should not be specified for south-facing rooms. Cotton and linen velvet achieve grade 4 to 5, which is borderline for sustained south-facing exposure.

What is the difference between cut pile velvet and uncut pile velvet?

In cut pile velvet the pile loops are cut during production, producing upstanding individual fibres that create the characteristic dense, soft surface. In uncut pile or loop pile velvet the loops remain intact, producing a harder, more textural surface. Most upholstery velvet is cut pile. Some decorative velvets combine cut and uncut areas to create pattern, known as ciselé or voided velvet.

How do I clean velvet upholstery without damaging the pile?

The cleaning method depends on the cleaning code assigned to the specific fabric. Most velvet upholstery is coded S, meaning solvent-based dry-cleaning agents only. Water applied to an S-coded velvet can cause watermarks and permanent pile distortion. Always work in the direction of the pile when applying any cleaning agent or brushing.

Is linen velvet suitable for contract upholstery?

Linen velvet is suitable for light contract use, subject to FR treatment and confirmation of the Martindale rub count for the specific range. A well-constructed linen velvet at 20,000 Martindale rubs meets the minimum threshold for general contract use. However, linen velvet does not pass BS 5852 Crib 5 inherently and requires topical treatment or an appropriate interliner for contract environments.

For velvet specification in hotel and hospitality projects, see our hotel fabric specification guide. For velvet on walls and headboards, see our wall panels and headboards guide. For when velvet is the wrong choice, see our when not to use velvet guide. For pilling resistance by velvet type, see our pilling resistance guide. For mohair thermal properties in hospitality, see our mohair thermal properties guide.

For full specification data including Martindale rub counts, fire ratings, and light fastness grades by range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page and the silks page.

For guidance on using velvet as an acoustic treatment in home studios and music rooms, see our fabric for home studio acoustics guide.

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Light Fastness and the Blue Wool Scale: Fabric Specification Guide

Light Fastness and the Blue Wool Scale: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers

Light fastness is a fabric’s resistance to fading when exposed to light. For interior designers, it is one of the most practically consequential specifications you will make. A fabric that fades within two years in a south-facing room represents a specification failure regardless of how well it performs on every other measure. This guide explains how light fastness is tested, what the Blue Wool Scale grades mean, which grades to specify for different applications, and how light fastness interacts with fibre type, dye method, and room orientation.

This is the third in a series of technical specification guides from Kothea. The first covers the Martindale rub test and the second covers BS 5852 Crib 5 fire certification.
For why velvet in pale colourways in south-facing rooms is a specific light fastness risk, see our when not to use velvet guide. For colour naming, systems, and metamerism, see our colour naming and specification guide. For the companion test covering dye transfer and crocking, see our colour fastness and crocking guide.

What Light Fastness Means

Light fastness measures how much a fabric’s colour changes when exposed to light. It is not the same as colour fastness generally, which covers a broader range of stressors including washing, rubbing, and perspiration. Light fastness specifically measures the effect of ultraviolet and visible light on the dye or pigment within a fabric.

Fading occurs when light energy breaks down the chemical bonds in a dye molecule, altering its ability to absorb and reflect specific wavelengths of light. The result is a shift in the perceived colour of the fabric, which may manifest as bleaching, yellowing, or a change in hue depending on the dye type and fibre.

The speed and extent of fading depends on the fibre type, the class of dye used, the dyeing method, the intensity and spectrum of light the fabric is exposed to, and the presence of UV filtering in the glazing of the windows in the room.

Light fastness should not be confused with shade change in velvet, which is the apparent change in colour caused by pile being pushed in different directions through use. Shade change is a mechanical phenomenon and is not related to dye degradation or light exposure.

How the Test Works

The standard test for light fastness in the United Kingdom and Europe is ISO 105-B02: Colour Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test. The fabric specimen is placed in a controlled chamber and exposed to a xenon arc lamp, which produces a spectrum of light representative of natural daylight at the D65 standard illuminant. This simulates the conditions of a south-facing interior window.

The specimen is assessed at intervals by comparing the degree of colour change against a set of eight reference fabrics known as blue wool references, numbered 1 to 8. These references are produced and calibrated by specialist manufacturers such as James Heal, who supply accredited test houses worldwide. Each blue wool reference is dyed with a different dye to produce a known and calibrated resistance to fading. Blue wool 1 is the most fugitive and blue wool 8 is the most resistant. Each successive reference is approximately twice as resistant to fading as the previous one, giving the scale a geometric rather than linear progression. The difference between grade 5 and grade 6 represents twice the resistance of grade 4 to grade 5, not an equal step.

The result awarded to the fabric is the number of the blue wool reference that most closely matches the degree of fading shown by the test specimen. A fabric rated at grade 5 has faded to a degree equivalent to blue wool reference 5 under the same exposure conditions.

The Blue Wool Scale: What Each Grade Means

Grade 1 indicates very poor light fastness. The fabric will fade rapidly under even moderate light exposure. No upholstery or curtain fabric should be specified at this grade.

Grade 2 indicates poor light fastness. Significant fading is expected within a short period. Not suitable for any interior application where appearance durability matters.

Grade 3 indicates moderate light fastness. Acceptable only for very low-light environments with no direct sunlight exposure. Not recommended for curtains or upholstery in standard residential or contract use.

Grade 4 indicates good light fastness and is the recognised minimum for interior furnishing fabrics. Suitable for residential upholstery and curtains in rooms with indirect or limited natural light. Not recommended for south-facing rooms with large glazed areas or for high-light contract environments.

Grade 5 indicates very good light fastness and is the recommended minimum for most residential upholstery and curtain specifications. Suitable for rooms with moderate natural light including east and west-facing rooms.

Grade 6 indicates excellent light fastness and is recommended for south-facing rooms, high-light residential environments, and standard contract interiors including hotels and restaurants.

Grade 7 indicates very high light fastness. Recommended for environments with prolonged or intense light exposure including glazed atriums, conservatories, and south-facing hospitality spaces.

Grade 8 indicates the maximum achievable light fastness and is reserved for the most demanding light environments including marine, semi-outdoor, and direct sunlight applications.

Specification Thresholds by Application

For residential upholstery in rooms with limited or indirect natural light, grade 4 is the minimum acceptable threshold. For residential upholstery in rooms with moderate natural light, specify grade 5 or above. For south-facing rooms or rooms with large glazed areas, specify grade 6 or above. For contract upholstery in hotels, restaurants, and offices with standard glazing, specify grade 5 as a minimum with grade 6 preferred. For glazed atriums, hotel lobbies with skylights, or any environment with prolonged daylight exposure, specify grade 6 to 7.

For curtains, the same grading applies but the exposure is usually more direct and more sustained than for upholstery. A curtain fabric in a south-facing room should be specified at grade 6 or above regardless of whether the curtains are habitually closed or drawn.

For marine, yacht, or semi-outdoor applications, grade 7 to 8 is the appropriate range and specialist outdoor-rated fabrics should be specified rather than standard interior upholstery fabric.

The Effect of Room Orientation

Room orientation is one of the most underspecified variables in fabric selection. A north-facing room in the UK receives no direct sunlight at any time of year, and a grade 4 or 5 fabric is typically adequate. An east-facing room receives direct morning sun for a limited period. A west-facing room receives afternoon sun, which can be intense in summer. A south-facing room receives direct sunlight throughout the day from spring through autumn, with peak UV intensity between midday and 3pm.

The difference in light exposure between a north-facing and south-facing room in London over a twelve-month period is very significant. A grade 4 fabric that performs adequately in a north-facing study may show visible fading within eighteen months in a south-facing drawing room.

Always ask the client which direction the principal windows face and factor that into the light fastness requirement before specifying.

Fibre Type and Dye Method

Not all fibres accept dyes equally, and not all dyes are equally resistant to light degradation. The light fastness of a fabric is a product of both.

Silk is the most photosensitive natural fibre. Silk dyes are chemically susceptible to UV degradation, and silk fabrics typically achieve lower light fastness ratings than wool, cotton, or linen. Silk and silk velvet should be specified with caution in high-light environments, and the client should be advised of this limitation explicitly before specification is finalised.

Wool and mohair accept reactive and acid dyes that can achieve good light fastness ratings when correctly selected. Well-dyed wool upholstery fabrics typically achieve grade 5 to 6. Mohair, being a wool-derived fibre, has similar dye chemistry. Kothea’s Mohair Velvet Seven is tested independently to ISO 105-B02 and achieves grade 4 to 5 for light colourways and grade 5 to 6 for dark colourways. Darker colourways generally achieve higher light fastness grades because a greater proportion of colour loss is required before a visual change becomes perceptible.

Cotton and linen typically achieve moderate light fastness with standard reactive dyes. Pre-washed and solution-dyed cotton and linen can achieve higher grades depending on the dyestuff selection.

Polyester is inherently more resistant to UV degradation than natural fibres and typically achieves grades 6 to 7. Solution-dyed polyester, where colour is introduced into the fibre during extrusion rather than applied to the surface after weaving, achieves the highest light fastness ratings of any standard interior fabric and is appropriate for the most demanding high-light or semi-outdoor applications.

PVC and PU faux leathers are treated with UV-stabilising additives during manufacture and typically achieve high light fastness ratings. However, UV degradation of the substrate itself can cause surface cracking and loss of surface texture independent of colour change, which is a separate consideration for high-light environments.

What Light Fastness Does Not Measure

The ISO 105-B02 test measures colour change under controlled artificial light. It does not measure the effect of UV-filtering glass, which can significantly reduce UV exposure in modern double or triple-glazed windows. It does not measure the effect of cleaning on dye stability, which is covered by separate fastness tests. It does not predict how a specific fabric will behave in a specific room, because actual exposure varies by latitude, season, window orientation, glazing specification, and curtain or blind usage.

Low-e glazing and UV-blocking film can substantially reduce the UV component of light entering a room, extending the effective service life of a fabric beyond what the grade alone would suggest. If a client is refurbishing a property with high-specification glazing, this should be factored into the specification conversation.

Light Fastness and Crocking

Light fastness should not be confused with crocking, which is the transfer of dye from a fabric surface to another material through rubbing or friction. Crocking is measured by a separate test and graded on a different scale of 1 to 5. A fabric with good light fastness may still crock, particularly when wet.

For dark-coloured velvets in upholstery applications, crocking is a relevant concern particularly where light-coloured clothing is likely. Always check the crocking rating as well as the light fastness grade when specifying dark velvets for seating.

Kothea and Light Fastness

Mohair Velvet Seven from Kothea is tested independently to ISO 105-B02 and achieves grade 4 to 5 for light colourways and grade 5 to 6 for dark colourways, making it appropriate for moderate to high-light residential environments and standard contract interiors with adequate glazing.

For high-light environments, colourway selection is material. A dark colourway at grade 5 to 6 will outperform a pale colourway at grade 4 to 5 in a south-facing room. If the client’s brief requires a pale colourway in a south-facing room, this should be discussed explicitly and the light fastness limitation acknowledged before specification is finalised.

For full specification data on light fastness across the Kothea range, see the mohair velvet upholstery page or contact Kothea directly.

How to Specify Light Fastness

Ask the supplier for the ISO 105-B02 grade and confirm whether the test was carried out by an independent third party laboratory or self-declared by the supplier. Self-declared ratings without an independent test certificate should not be relied upon for contract projects.

State the required minimum grade in your specification as a labelled field. For example: Light fastness minimum grade 5 to ISO 105-B02. This makes the requirement explicit and verifiable.

Where the project involves south-facing rooms, large glazed areas, or a light-sensitive colourway, note this in your specification and confirm with the supplier that the grade applies to the specific colourway being ordered. Light fastness can vary between colourways within the same range, particularly between light and dark shades.

Frequently Asked Questions

What light fastness grade do I need for a south-facing room?

For a south-facing room in the UK, specify a minimum of grade 6 to ISO 105-B02 for both upholstery and curtain fabrics. South-facing rooms receive direct sunlight throughout the day from spring through autumn, which represents the most demanding light exposure condition in standard residential interiors. Grade 4, the minimum for interior furnishing fabrics generally, is insufficient for sustained south-facing exposure and will show visible fading within one to two years in most cases. If the glazing incorporates UV-blocking film or low-e coating, this will extend fabric performance, but grade 6 remains the appropriate specification baseline regardless of glazing.

What does a Blue Wool Scale grade of 5 mean for upholstery fabric?

A Blue Wool Scale grade of 5, tested to ISO 105-B02, means the fabric’s colour has faded to a degree equivalent to blue wool reference 5 under controlled xenon arc light exposure. Grade 5 is the recommended minimum for most residential upholstery specifications and is appropriate for rooms with moderate natural light including east and west-facing rooms. It is not recommended for south-facing rooms with large windows, where grade 6 is the appropriate minimum. Each grade on the scale represents approximately twice the light resistance of the grade below it, so the difference between grade 5 and grade 6 is significant rather than marginal.

Does silk fabric fade faster than other upholstery fabrics?

Yes. Silk is the most photosensitive of the natural upholstery fibres and typically achieves lower ISO 105-B02 grades than wool, mohair, cotton, or linen under equivalent conditions. The dyes used on silk are chemically more susceptible to UV degradation. Silk velvet and silk upholstery fabrics should not be specified for rooms receiving significant natural light without an explicit conversation with the client about this limitation. For high-light environments, mohair velvet or solution-dyed synthetic fabrics are more appropriate choices.

What is the light fastness rating of Kothea mohair velvet?

Kothea’s Mohair Velvet Seven is tested independently to ISO 105-B02 and achieves grade 4 to 5 for light colourways and grade 5 to 6 for dark colourways. For south-facing rooms, dark colourways at grade 5 to 6 are the appropriate selection from this range. For rooms with indirect or moderate natural light, light colourways at grade 4 to 5 are suitable. Contact Kothea to confirm the grade applicable to a specific colourway before finalising your specification.

Can UV-blocking glazing improve the effective light fastness performance of a fabric?

Yes. Modern low-e glazing and dedicated UV-blocking film reduce the UV component of light entering a room, which is the primary driver of dye degradation in interior fabrics. A fabric at grade 5 installed behind UV-blocking glazing will typically outlast the same fabric at grade 5 behind standard single glazing by a considerable margin. However, UV-blocking glazing does not eliminate UV exposure entirely, and the ISO 105-B02 grade should still be specified at the appropriate level for the room orientation. Treat the glazing specification as a factor that extends fabric performance, not as a substitute for adequate light fastness in the fabric itself.

What is the difference between light fastness and colour fastness?

Light fastness is a specific type of colour fastness that measures resistance to fading caused by light exposure, tested to ISO 105-B02 and graded on the Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8. Colour fastness is a broader term covering resistance to colour change or transfer from a range of stressors including washing, rubbing (crocking), perspiration, and dry cleaning, each tested to a separate standard within the ISO 105 series and graded on a scale of 1 to 5. A fabric can have excellent light fastness and poor crocking resistance, or vice versa. For contract upholstery, both light fastness to ISO 105-B02 and crocking resistance should be checked and specified independently.

To request cuttings from the Kothea range, including Mohair Velvet Seven with independent ISO 105-B02 light fastness certification.

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BS 5852 Crib 5: Complete Guide for Upholstery Specification

Brown faux leather chair from April Hamilton

BS 5852 Crib 5: A Complete Guide for Interior Designers and Specifiers

BS 5852 Crib 5 is the fire safety standard required for most contract upholstery in the United Kingdom. If you are specifying fabric for a hotel, restaurant, bar, office, healthcare environment, or any other commercial interior, Crib 5 compliance is the baseline expectation. This guide explains what the standard is, how the test works, the critical difference between inherent and topical certification, and how to specify correctly. For dye types and FR treatment compatibility — which dyes cause fading after treatment — see our dye types and FR treatment guide. For colour fastness and crocking specification, see our colour fastness and crocking guide. For hotel and hospitality projects see our hotel fabric specification guide. For wall panel and headboard applications, a different standard applies: see our guide to fabric for wall panels and headboards.For projects involving yachts or commercial vessels, a separate framework applies: see our guide to IMO marine fire standards for yacht interiors.

What Crib 5 Is

Crib 5 is shorthand for BS 5852 Ignition Source 5. BS 5852, titled Methods of Test for Assessment of the Ignitability of Upholstered Seating, is the British Standard that defines how upholstered furniture materials must behave when exposed to ignition sources of increasing intensity. The standard defines eight ignition source levels. The three that matter most in practice are Source 0 (a smouldering cigarette), Source 1 (a small flame equivalent to a lit match), and Source 5, which is the Crib 5 test.

The name comes from the wooden structure used as the ignition source. A crib is a small lattice of dry timber pieces, stacked five tiers high, weighing approximately 17 grams. The number 5 refers to the number of tiers. The crib is placed on the upholstery assembly and ignited. The test is designed to simulate an ignition event more intense than a match flame, comparable to a burning pile of paper, and is the realistic minimum for contract environments where furniture may be exposed to more severe ignition risks than a smouldering cigarette.

The Three-Stage Test

BS 5852 Crib 5 is not a single test in isolation. To achieve a Crib 5 certification, a fabric must first pass both the cigarette test (Source 0) and the match test (Source 1). Only materials that pass both of these lower-level tests are eligible to proceed to the Crib 5 stage. A material that fails the cigarette or match test cannot be certified to Crib 5 regardless of how it performs under the wooden crib.

For more detail on the cigarette and match stages of BS 5852, see our post on the cigarette and match tests.

In the cigarette test, a smouldering cigarette is placed in the crease between the seat and back of the upholstered test rig. The material must show no ignition and no progressive smouldering.

In the match test, a small burner flame is held against the upholstery for 20 seconds. The material must self-extinguish immediately and show no spread of flame.

In the Crib 5 test, the lit wooden crib is placed on the upholstered assembly. All flaming must cease within 10 minutes. The fire must not spread beyond defined limits or penetrate the filling material. There must be no self-sustaining smouldering after the crib has burned out.

The Composite Nature of the Test

This is the point most frequently misunderstood in specification. BS 5852 does not test the fabric in isolation. It tests the full composite assembly: the fabric cover, the foam or filling, and any interliner, all as they would be used together in the finished piece of furniture.

A fabric that achieves Crib 5 certification in one configuration with a specific foam may not achieve it when applied over a different foam. A certificate from a fabric supplier confirms the fabric was tested in a specific configuration. If the foam or filling used in your project differs from the foam used in the test, the certificate may not be valid for your application.

Always confirm with your fabric supplier the exact configuration under which the Crib 5 test was conducted, including the foam specification, before relying on that certificate for a contract project.

Inherent Versus Topical Certification

The single most important distinction in specifying a Crib 5 fabric is whether the certification is inherent or achieved through topical treatment. The practical consequences are significant.

Inherent Crib 5 means the fire resistance is a property of the fibre itself. The yarn from which the fabric is woven is non-combustible or self-extinguishing by its nature, independent of any chemical application. Mohair velvet is the primary example in the Kothea range. Mohair fibre is inherently resistant to ignition, and a correctly woven mohair velvet carries an inherent Crib 5 pass without any treatment being applied. The certification is permanent, unaffected by cleaning, does not alter the handle or surface appearance of the fabric, and carries no additional cost for FR treatment.

Topical or back-coated treatment is applied to a fabric that is not inherently fire resistant. The fabric passes through a bath of fire-retardant chemicals, which are bonded to the reverse of the fabric through a coating process. The resulting fabric can achieve a Crib 5 pass, but with three important caveats.

First, the BS 5852 standard requires a water-soak test as part of full certification. The fabric is soaked in water to simulate cleaning and then retested. Many fabrics that pass the dry Crib 5 test fail after the water-soak stage. An indicative test without the water-soak is not a complete Crib 5 certificate. Do not rely on an indicative certificate for contract projects without confirming with the client and fire officer that it is acceptable.

Second, the coating process can affect the appearance and handle of certain fabrics. Pile fabrics such as velvets are particularly susceptible. Immersion or back-coating can flatten the pile, stiffen the handle, or leave residue on the face of the fabric. This is one of the reasons mohair velvet with an inherent pass is preferable for contract use over cotton or linen velvet that requires treatment.

Third, a topically treated fabric may need re-treatment if cleaned by a method that degrades the coating. Professional cleaning must use methods compatible with the treatment. Confirm the appropriate cleaning regime with the treatment provider before specifying.

For a detailed guide to the treatment process and the difference between Crib 5 and BS 7176, see our post on FR treatment, BS 7176, and the Crib 5 test.

BS 7176 and Hazard Categories

BS 7176, Specification for Resistance to Ignition of Upholstered Furniture for Non-Domestic Seating, extends the BS 5852 framework by categorising different commercial environments into hazard levels and specifying the appropriate ignition source requirement for each.

Low hazard covers environments such as offices. Medium hazard covers hotels, theatres, and healthcare waiting areas. High and extreme hazard cover environments such as prisons, secure psychiatric units, and offshore installations.

For most hospitality and commercial interiors the relevant category is Medium Hazard, and the standard associated with it is effectively Crib 5. The practical difference between specifying to BS 5852 Crib 5 and specifying to BS 7176 Medium Hazard is that BS 7176 includes the water-soak stage explicitly and requires the certificate to document the specific end-use environment and foam specification. In complex or sensitive projects, specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than simply Crib 5 gives a more complete and defensible specification. The treatment applied to achieve both is the same.

When Crib 7 Is Required

Crib 7 follows the same principle as Crib 5 but uses a larger wooden crib, seven tiers high, producing a more intense ignition source. It is required in high and extreme hazard environments: primarily prisons, secure psychiatric units, and some offshore or industrial installations. The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 assigns responsibility for determining the appropriate hazard category to the responsible person managing the building, not to the designer or fabric supplier. If a project falls into a high hazard category, engage a specialist fire safety consultant before specifying.

Crib 5 fabric, when combined with an appropriate FR foam, can sometimes achieve a Crib 7 pass as a composite. This must be verified by testing and documented with the relevant certificate. Do not assume that a Crib 5 fabric will achieve Crib 7 without independent testing.

For a full explanation of Crib 7 and when it applies, see our post on what is Crib 7.

Curtain Fabrics and the Different Standard

BS 5852 applies to upholstery. Curtain fabrics are governed by a separate standard, BS 5867, which tests vertical hanging fabrics rather than upholstered composites. The two standards are not interchangeable. A curtain fabric certified to BS 5867 is not automatically suitable for upholstery use, and a Crib 5 certified upholstery fabric is not automatically certified for use as a curtain in a contract environment. Always confirm the correct standard for the specific application before specifying.

Kothea Fabrics and Crib 5

Mohair velvet from Kothea carries an inherent BS 5852 Crib 5 pass across all active mohair velvet ranges. The inherent certification means no treatment is required, no additional cost is incurred, the certification survives cleaning, and the handle and surface of the fabric are unaffected. The primary Mohair Velvet range achieves 100,000 Martindale rubs alongside its inherent Crib 5 certification, combining contract-grade durability with the highest fire safety standard for most commercial projects.

Faux Leather 3 from Kothea carries a BS 5852 Crib 5 certification alongside a Martindale rub count in excess of 200,000, making it among the most specification-complete fabrics available for severe contract environments including transport seating, healthcare, and hospitality.

Cotton velvet requires topical treatment to achieve a Crib 5 pass and is not supplied by Kothea with an inherent certification.

How to Specify Correctly

State the standard in full. Ask for BS 5852 Ignition Source 5 (Crib 5), not just Crib 5. The full reference removes ambiguity.

Confirm inherent or topical. Ask the supplier explicitly whether the certification is inherent to the fibre or achieved through topical treatment. If topical, ask whether the full water-soak test was completed and request the certificate confirming it.

Confirm the composite configuration. Ask which foam was used in the test. If your project uses a different foam, the certificate may not cover your specific application.

Use a UKAS-accredited treatment house. If your project requires a fabric to be treated, specify that treatment must be carried out by a UKAS-accredited company. This ensures the process is correctly executed and independently verifiable.

Request the full test certificate. An indicative result is not a certificate. For contract projects, require the independent test certificate before the fabric is upholstered.

Consider BS 7176 for complex environments. For hotel bedrooms, healthcare, or any environment where the hazard category is uncertain, specifying BS 7176 Medium Hazard rather than Crib 5 alone provides a more defensible specification at no additional treatment cost.

Crib 7: The Standard Above Crib 5

Crib 7 is the ignition source immediately above Crib 5 in the BS 5852 series. Where Crib 5 uses a wooden crib of approximately 17 grams with a specific timber species and construction, Crib 7 uses a larger and more severe crib of approximately 126 grams. The test assembly is the same — a seat and back pad covered in the fabric being tested — but the larger ignition source represents a significantly more demanding fire scenario.

Crib 7 is not widely required in mainstream UK contract specification. The environments where it is applicable include some prison and secure accommodation furniture, certain defence and government procurement specifications, and some highly specific public sector contracts where the risk assessment has determined that the standard Crib 5 level of protection is insufficient. It is also referenced in some transport seating specifications, though IMO standards apply in the marine context rather than BS 5852.

For most hotel, restaurant, office, and residential contract interiors, Crib 5 is the correct and sufficient standard. Specifiers who encounter a Crib 7 requirement should confirm with the project’s fire risk assessor whether it is genuinely required for the specific application, as it is a materially more demanding test and limits the fabric options available considerably. Very few standard upholstery fabrics carry a certified Crib 7 pass. Purpose-made fire-retardant fabrics with specialist construction and treatment are typically required.

If your project has a Crib 7 requirement, contact us directly to discuss suitable fabric options for the specific application.

For surface spread of flame requirements for wall and ceiling linings — a separate standard from Crib 5 — see our BS 476 Part 7 guide.

For fabric sustainability certifications including GOTS and Oeko-Tex, see our fabric sustainability certifications guide. For healthcare fire standards including BS 7176, see our healthcare fabric guide.

For how the Building Safety Act 2022 affects fabric fire certification documentation in higher-risk buildings, see our Building Safety Act and fabric specification guide.

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